Africa Solo Overland - Travel & Transit
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Cape Town, Cairo, Algiers and Tangier are the three major overland gateways into Africa. All three entry points have various choices criss crossing slowly towards any final destination chosen. Feeling the real Africa is by escaping into the heartland of the continent well off main bitumen highways.
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Visas, additional red tape, and permits are usually required to cross and transit through sensitive zones. Sudan via Chad through to Nigeria is one example. Solo overland travel through Africa using local transport is always a blast, I've done this several times with each journey be better than the last. Anything and everything is possible including unexpected breakdowns and deviations.
Having time on your hands, and I mean plenty of of time without narrow schedules, is the most valuable asset to have transiting through Africa. Forget about pre-planning or organizing scheduled itineraries through central and northern Africa. In the West, if a bus, train or boat is delayed for more than 30 minutes, total chaos breaks out, but within the heartland of Africa, if transport shows up five days later, most locals are happy it arrived without even complaining.
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Getting through all of Africa overland takes considerable time and effort. There are no shortcuts. There are no quick fixes. One requires to begin either from the north or south. Zig-zagging from west to east, coast to coast through southern Africa is relatively straight forward with little issues. Overland transit journeys across the central heartland and northern regions of Africa is more complicated. It requires back up routes, and fresh up to date information of what's up ahead, especially what's happening, and what has happened a few days in advance to determine the safety risk factors. This is done by asking locals and different transportation operators within each region. Ignoring to gather your own research on fresh information will only place those at higher risk to be suddenly randomly held up, attacked, shot at, or even taken hostage with no prior warning. Snitches are your worst enemy, they can be anyone. All it takes is a quick cell phone text or call that determines another person's fate. More on this in the overland transit page.
Sick and tired of following the footsteps of others? Africa has endless amounts of hidden overland road routes that many westerners wouldn't dream to go. The real heartland of Africa isn't tamed, it's still wild as ever, and will probably remain that way for decades to come. South America is a breeze compared to Africa, the continent is a bone shaker, a multi mixed diversity of tribe, religion, and conflict. Those who dare to go it it alone will learn, reeducate themselves, and digest more than what they can ever imagine.
Tribes are numerous through the continent, with some more friendly than others. Blame the sick western tourism exploration for that. At the end of day, it's all about money - nothing else. Photographing in tribal lands is not difficult, but at least, for those who visit them, try some down to earth interaction with locals before rushing off grabbing as many snaps as possible, and then rushing off in a 4WD full power in a cloud of dust. I've witnessed this countless times - don't be one of them!
Why follow the crowd? Especially those who try using smart phones to capture wildlife! Traveling with real photo gear works every time for all those wildlife shots that most dream about capturing. Planning long-term journeys through this continent requires photo gear. I use Nikon stuff myself, but most major brands offer the same quality optics to do the job.
The above and below images were captured using the same DSLR lens. I've traveled using many different lenses throughout the planet since '82, and must say, some lenses are more superior than others. Whether you're an old school DSLR user like myself, or a mirrorless buff, the most important of all camera gear are quality lenses.
Below, how many times have you regretted not capturing simple images during transit journeys? Instead of passing by ignoring scenes like this, stop the vehicle and capture them using DSLR gear. One must consider when will be the next overland transit journey through North African deserts, and if actually there will be another next time through the same region. The best travel advice is to capture as many different interesting diverse images as possible en-route through the middle of nowhere. Stopping for a few minutes, if self-driving isn't an issue. When on-board local bush buses, getting friendly interacting with divers offering sweet snacks and fresh fruit. This gives the opportunity to stop for a quick minute allowing to capture still images blur free with the best possible compositions.
Overland - Coast To Coast
In volatile red zones, international border posts shut and close without notice, they may permanently be closed for months or even years. Due to the ongoing Islamic cloud spreading through northern Africa, many overland routes and border crossings shown above may, or may not be open allowing transit for foreign nationals. Depending on each particular border post, it's up to the discretion of immigration officials granting entry. In the middle of nowhere, many border posts do use their own rule book. Cash bribe payments may be on offer, but this is entirely up to those who want to fork out bundles of cash to continue their journeys. Large amounts of territory surrounding the Sahel region is as volatile, or even worse than the inner Sahel region. As usual, all onward visas should be in order. Transit routes through the Sahel are at your own risk and peril.
Are you're sick and tired of worn out tourist ghettos? Too much of the same old same old? Be like myself and go it alone without looking back. Using local transport is always a blast through any continent with Africa being right up there with every type of public transport imaginable. In most cases, no bookings are required, just jump on board on anything available heading in the right direction. Don't scream when bush-buses break down, it happens all the time. Most quick fix highway repairs are the same repairs until whatever part has been replaced - which never happens.
Never let any offshore overland travel journey go to waste. Leave all the trendy beach coastlines till last until completing the hard yards, by first reaching them overland from the other side of the continent. There's more personal value gain doing this. In most cases, you'll meet endless amounts of westerners who fly the mileage just to soak and sun on African sandy beaches. Some for two weeks, and others for a few months. Chatting with Jet setters from all different walks of life always ends the same. They wish they had the time and courage to experience traveling in the real world.
There's plenty of internal inland road and bush track routes connecting east Africa across to west Africa. The majority of continent crossings from DRC upwards have banditry and Islamic militia groups maintaining their presence, who randomly attack and striking at will. Overland transit routes from Djibouti to Nigeria isn't a journey for the meek. The lower Sahel region is the shortest route from coast to coast. Various routes are well known as a main supply-line for smuggling drugs weapons and human smuggling. The region from Darfur-Sudan and onward thru to N'Djamena into Borno State-Nigeria contains uncontrolled areas of Islamic presence. Islamic insurgency through the region continues to expand in all directions, now reaching Mozambique. This is a Red Zone overland transit crossing that does contain high levels of risk for western foreigners, who can be taken hostage from one day to the next.
Border areas through this region becomes volatile and dangerous after dark. Visas for Chad, C.A.R, Niger, Cameroon and Nigeria should already be in order. Nigerian visas are usually issued with a 3 month window to enter from the date of issue. Depending where Nigerian visas were issued, one can be lucky enough to receive 3 months entry. The northern border crossings into Nigeria, are the Cameroon
Gambaru, and the Katsina crossing from Niger. Both regions have on-going Boko Haram-IS insurgency. Cameroon southern border crossings are Mafe and Calabar. Hostage taking, car jacking, and insurgency attacks in northern Cameroon has increased considerably - Just ask the locals! Overland coast to coast routes can be done in either direction, and entirely at your own risk. If you're not afraid of doing some hard yards, and handle the odd breakdown, random control checks, baggage searches, night fear, putting up with smelly egg farts, and endless bull-dust, the central and lower Sahel coast to coast journey route is waiting for you.
The above map shows the latest spread of the ever increasing Islamic push through the continent. Isis may have lost ground in the Middle east, but it has now moved full speed ahead through Africa amalgamating with local Islamic groups. Since 2017, the ADF, a Ugandan led militant group in D.R.C. has become a destination for Islamic State recruits from Kenya. ADF members apparently reached out to the Islamic State in Libya uniting the two groups together - today, known as the Islamic State of Central Africa. In C.A.R., a group known as Seleka is one of the major militia groups in the Central African Republic. Libya, a main militia gateway from the Middle East, has several Islamic groups in conflict, the Libya Dawn, The Fighting Islamic group, Partisans of Sharia, and Operation Dignity are a few to mention. Al Shabaab have control along the African eastern coastline from Somalia southwards. Mozambique of late, have had numerous attacks by both Isis and Al Shabaab insurgents. In west Africa, Al Qaeda and Boko Harem stretch from Algeria across to Libya down to Cameroon. These two groups have various militia affiliates and proxies causing havoc through Mali, Burkina Faso, Niger, Chad, Nigeria, and Cameroon. There's an estimated one million displaced people in the Sahel region alone. Since 2018, thousands of Christians have been pillaged, raped and slaughtered through west and central Africa.
Westerners, who are not Muslims, or who can neither cite Koranic verses travelling through regions within the shadows of Islamic groups may get a free pass, but then maybe not. Every day is different to the next in transit through Red Zone regions. Any transportation moving along highways maybe held-up, stopped and searched. If you're blond, can't speak the local dialect, and not a Muslim, you're going to have to ask yourself if it's worth the risk. Hostage taking, raping and being treated inhumanly happens week to week month to month. One only needs to ask the locals throughout the many different Red Zone regions riddled with Islamist insurgency for confirmation. Example, March 2022 direct bus from Ouahigouya to Niamey was ambushed by Islamist militia - 19 passengers killed. Snitching is normal, it only requires a quick cell call by local snitches to be targeted. A snitch can be working in a hotel, employed in cheap overnight transit accommodation, a bus or van driver, or any local on the street. What ever route one decides to transit along from either coast, Islamist already know you're coming. It solely depends on Islamist groups, militias, and highway bandits, if they're busy doing something else more important to allow a free pass transiting through their turf without hindrance. This is how it works, take my advice from experience, not from fluffy travel blog sites!
Solo transiting through Africa using local transport does the job! Crossing from coast to coast via DRC or through the Sahel region completing a round trip is by using deluxe buses, rattling bush-buses, vans, boats, and 4x4 - Enjoy the journey!
Below, now and then you meet up with other foreigners on board bush buses transiting through the middle of nowhere. These two dudes, an Israeli and American have also done some serious overland travel mileage crossing various continents through the decades. We all had one thing in common, we were hardened overland travelers, and departed in different directions through the central heartland of Africa.
Africa Overland - Northern Gateway
Cairo, a bustling city overflowing with over packed pavements and clogged avenues with jammed up traffic. Cairo may seem out of order on arrival, but this is what makes the city so unique. It's actually a vibrant mix with a clash of sprawling french flavored palaces and museums. Cairo is known to contain the most mosques for a city globally. Cairo will keep most busy for couple of weeks doing random street photography, visiting Giza, including the museums. Strolling around inside Cairo's maze of mixed bazars and passing through the Coptic quarter is also recommended. The choices of entering into Egypt can be done by land, sea or air. Because of the on-going conflicts in Syria and Libya, the only overland road route from the north is from Jordan or Israel via the Sinai. An Israeli stamp, or any issued entry stamp from the Jordanian or Egyptian immigration upon exiting Israel will give problems when applying for a Sudanese visa. It's automatic procedure for Sudanese Embassy and Consular staff to check every page in passports for an Israeli stamp, including neighboring Arab entry stamps. This also applies with other African Arab nations except Morocco and Tunisia. The Greek shipping line from Cyprus to Alexandria has ceased operations until further notice. Hitching a passage on board cargo ships is still possible. If coming through from Turkey, there are boat connections to Rhodes from Maramis and Mersin to Beirut. The only available overland route from Egypt to Sudan is from Aswan to Wadi Halfa by boat which sails once a week, or by bus and boat via Abu Simbel. There has been chit chat from both countries to open a public land border crossing along the coast, but this has been in the works for decades with no results as yet. The Sudanese consulate in Aswan is familiar with foreigners applying for visas. The Ethiopian Embassy in Khartoum will usually issue tourist visas within 24 hours. Due to the complications of militia transitions throughout the northern and central regions of Africa, it's advisable to get the latest updates first hand on the ground. Crossing the Sudan through to Nigeria is easily done as long all visas and required permits are in order. Below snap, a slow relaxing journey on board the MV Liemba chugging southward to Zambia - Rating 10/10
Transit Routes Africa - Tangier : Cape Town : Cairo
Carving out an overland journey route in either direction up or down the African continent is simple. The mapping routes above were completed over a 12 month period. Time and patience is a must to complete a solo overland trip like this. As always, some land borders do close while others are re-opened, so it's always imperative to check the latest updates to ensure international borders are open on the transit routes planned.
On long-term overland travel journeys, there's always the dilemma of deciding what photo gear to use and carry. The Photo-Gear page covers a variety of different Nikon DSLR equipment with a range of different accessories that have been used in past overland transit journeys.
Africa overland transit - Jump on board any available transport and enjoy the ride. Reaching Africa is one thing, overland travel through difficult parts of the continent is something else. Jumping on the top of cattle trucks or in packed-out bush-vans is one way to do it. Sometimes, these are the only choices to get lifts within isolated regions that have minimal public transport. Grabbing lifts on trucks is normal procedure amongst locals. If you can handle the free amounts of bull dust in your face, thumps and bumps with endless vibration rattling through the body, including breakdowns, and grinding along bush-track highways for a few days, then what are you waiting for?
Razor wire isn't hanging in place just for show. Foreigners are robbed and mugged all the time - every day somewhere within the African shorelines. Most of the time, it's the visitors who are at fault, due to a lack of street instinct and awareness of what's happening around them at certain locations. Safe lodging is with some form of security with either a 24hr reception, or a guard hanging outside the complex. This may stop thieves, and robbers from entering a hotel freely at their own will, but it certainly won't stop anyone from being mugged and robbed after dark when returning to a hotel. I would recommend to always pick an upstairs room, and using your own lock and key when possible. Coiled razor wire hanging along the outside of a hotel window is an added bonus. Razor wired hotels are not just in Africa, it's also commonly seen and used in Brazil, Venezuela, Argentina, the Caribbean, Central America, the Middle East, and some regions in Asia.
Southern Gateway - Africa
Cape Town, the southern hub of Africa, a city that rocks 24/7. Cape Town is a perfect entry gateway into (or exit out of) Africa, with an amazing, vibrant feel that keeps one staying longer than expected. The panoramic views of Table Mountain and Lion's Head, are welcome vistas - from dawn to dusk. Planning a journey in this region is recommended during the summer months. The Antarctic southerly wind freezes this city through most of the winter season. Transiting overland from Morocco or Cairo to South Africa also offers a gateway out of Africa with direct flights to South America landing in Sao Paulo or Buenos Aires.
South African international border posts have you covered in all directions. Passports should have at least have 12 months validity with half a dozen blank pages. WHO health cards must also have valid yellow fever vaccinations to enter South Africa. Visa extensions are possible, depending on nationality, and where the visa extension is being processed. Some South African immigration offices are easier to deal with. On previous visits, I've managed to get extensions in Durban and Cape-town, a valid exit bus ticket to neighboring countries is required. Warning, it's your own risk walking along the back route of table mountain, as this Ukrainian tourist found out who was robbed and stabbed to death
Bush Bus Transit - Africa
As the title heading stipulates, solo overland transit using local transportation to get through Africa is more simple than what many may assume. Africans do it everyday without questioning how comfortable the seats are, or if the driver has a heavy foot down on the pedal flogging the bus to death at high speed all day. This is certainly a part of the overland transit journey experience whether it's liked or not. Using local transport has many hidden positives for the visitor which most organized tourist overland operators are lacking. Interaction is the key ingredient through any of the continents which can open many doors. This is easily achieved just by using local transport up or down the continent interacting with local passengers. Random invitations from locals to eat, stay, or become a guest for a few days does happen, and more often than I can say in my own country. The majority of public bus transportation through the continent operates the same way - packed and primed -up to the hilt. Using bush-buses off-main highways has relatively the same experience with an added bonus of vibration, dust, and breakdowns. In general, Africans transiting on buses are extremely friendly towards foreigners with many going out of their way to assist or help with local information. Don't think twice to solo travel through Africa using local transportation. Journeys across Africa are full of surprises making what overland travel and transit is all about - Enjoyment!
African bush bus drivers love speed. They thrash their buses at peak revs all day and through the night. If you enjoy rough as guts transport, with the thrill of transiting through Africa tasting dust in your mouth and non-stop vibration - bush buses will do it for you.
Diversity - All Directions
No matter where one begins or ends, their journeys, Africa opens up endless visions lasting a lifetime. Barren Savannah, diverse landscape, tribal presence, and abundant wildlife are the natural jewels coast to coast. It's impossible rushing through the continent, time, lots of time and patience without schedules is required.
Where does one capture image shots like above? Within the wilderness regions of the continent. There's no advertising, no lonely planet data, one must find out for themselves, by meeting and interacting with locals to reach group gatherings like this - Nikon DSLR full frame, AFS 14-24mm f/2.8.
Those traveling solo overland through the continent will without too much effort capture random images like this.
Quick simple snap shots captured at near ground level with locals staring down at the lens make great images.
Central Heartland - The Interior
The central lake district shared by the Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania, Burundi, Rwanda and Zambia is the transit overland gateway through to west Africa. DRC visas are easily obtained in Lusaka or Nairobi. (there are no consulates). It takes approximately five days waiting time receiving DRC visas. I had coughed out $150 bucks for a 3 month DRC visa issued in Kenya. Entering DRC through the Rwanda border crossing may result with added corruption bribes mounting to hundreds of dollars to get through. This all depends on nationality, and the immigration officials at the appointed time of entering this particular land border on the day. Some foreigners pass through border without issues, while others end up paying bribes
My advise, is to travel further south to Burundi, and cross over at the Bujumbura/ DRC land border, where corruption bribes are less frequent, and then travel north to Goma. There is also a DRC land/lake border further south at Kalemie from Kigoma-Tanzania, although infrequent unscheduled boat transport from Tanzania to Kalemie will test your patience. The Kalemie crossing is normally for those transiting south towards Lubumbashi thru to Zambia. Having a Rwandan double entry visa makes it easier for those who want to return from the Goma region. Overland travel and transit through the DRC is not recommended in the wet season unless one has plenty of time to find available transport that's operational. Walking around solo after dark with baggage, photo-gear or other valuable items in DRC is certainly not advisable, unless you want to lose it. This also applies for most countries through the continent, especially South Africa, Tanzania, Kenya, Nigeria, CAR, Niger, Cameroon, Senegal and Mali. Local snitches are your worst enemy.
Overland travel through DRC requires time, lots of time, including patience. As mentioned, avoiding the Congo wet season from Oct thru December is recommended, unless travel-time isn't an issue. A healthy cash supply is required - conceal your cash stash well! I purchased a bundle of US Dollars in Kampala. Money exchanges are found almost everywhere through Africa. Varying commission exchange rates are normal - shop around! Floating downstream on the Congo river using available boats is better than traveling upstream i.e. Kisangani - Lisala - Mbandaka - Kinshasa, or south bound from Kabalo. The north eastern region of DRC is volatile! Watch your stuff, and yourself! Valid visas are necessary to cross over to C.A.R. & South Sudan.
Every Day's Different
Above left, the weird and wonderful of processed created tribal tourism. A typical scenario seen through the majority of heavily promoted tribal lands across the continent. Above right, a roadside snap transiting through tribal lands in southern Ethiopia.
Desert sands surrounding ancient Nubian pyramids within peaceful surroundings in the middle of nowhere.
Reaching the landlocked Kingdom of Lesotho is via the numerous international border crossings surrounding the country. The Sani Pass route is the main gateway from the eastern side of South Africa. Lesotho is situated in the Maloti mountains, the highest mountain ranges in Southern Africa. It's the perfect escape for hiking, trekking and horseback riding.
Random street snaps, Savannah sky, wilderness wildlife, tribal lands, desert landscape - Africa has it all.
Above, African silhouettes are plentiful and easily captured across the continent. Below, one of my favorite locations taking images in any country are on the outskirts of towns and villages.
Africa Overland - DSLR Full Frame Territory
No matter what you've read or heard about smart phone cameras - they're useless junk when it comes to capturing distant wildlife. Any quality full frame DSLR or mirroless camera bodies with reasonable long reach lenses, is more than adequate enough. Many have regretted traveling only with smart phone cameras instead of real photo gear, especially when exploring wildlife sanctuaries and game parks. What most assume, is that wildlife in the wild are like lame zoo animals, and probably think they can be hand fed, and even grab close up selfies with them. Guys, Keep your smart phone junk in baggage until the urge of selfie addiction snapping kicks in a long sandy beach shorelines for those social media dopamine likes.
Two images examples captured with full frame DSLR lenses. They both look close, but are cropped images captured from distance. Smart phone cameras no-matter the brand, fail reaching out capturing long distant shots. Quality close-up shots are only viewed properly after images are re cropped and enlarged. Traveling with photo-gear with a few different lenses guarantees distant shots to be in focus and usable. Those out there who disagree, are probably used to visiting zoos, and are vivid smart phone travelers who have never experienced any real time overland travel transit journeys crossing countries and continents using real camera gear.
Extensive travel through Africa requires reliable camera gear that can withstand bump and grind, dust and vibration. Lenses are the weakest link. External focusing lenses should be avoided. Dust buildup will eventually find its way inside lenses. I've seen this happen many times with other people's lenses. Soon after, external focus zoom lenses slowly begin grinding to bits. Not only that, dust entering inside on optics becomes damp when traveling into humid regions. The dust then turns into fungus spores spreading across lens optics.
Below, images samples of user error. Now and then capturing sub par out of focus, or cut off subjects happens. This is commonly regarded as user error, not the equipment. Wildlife captures require at least 400-600mm focal range to sustain sharp tack images taken from long distance. DSLR tele lenses are still the top optics to capture wildlife no matter the brand name. Just look at what professional wildlife photographers are using and decide for yourself.
Are full frame DSLR zoom lenses under 400mm good for wildlife photography? No, it's far better to use long prime lenses of 500mm up to capture distant shots. The longer the lens the better it is. Those running on tight budgets can squeeze satisfactory image captures using 400mm full frame lenses with DX bodies.
One can only blame themselves when missing on the go subjects. Fiddling with cumbersome internal camera settings at the time of grabbing snaps results in misfires and blurry shots. Full memory cards and flat batteries are other issues causing missed captures. Getting to know quick rapid adjustment settings of photo gear will guarantee satisfaction most of the time, especially all the different on the go snaps during transit journeys throughout Africa.
Street Photography - Africa
It's enjoyable capturing random close-up street portraits through Africa. Traveling through the continent with at least one decent camera body with a few lenses will be put to good use almost everyday. Brand names aren't important, only the reliability of any camera body that can handle knocks and drops is important. Smart phones don't cut it no matter the brand, a low-light image snap taken from a cell phone increased 3x of its original size will expose mass amounts of grain. Capturing close-up random street portraits with total strangers requires positive interaction levels for satisfied results. Without a camera, and having zero interaction skills, any overland journey through the continent will be sub-par outside tourist zone perimeters. As usual, researching through endless amounts of camera and lens reviews before purchasing photo-gear is recommended. Never buy a camera just because it's the latest released model. Reliability is first priority for any photo-gear to survive abuse through Africa on a 12-18 month overland journey.
On the go images captured using good old reliable DSLR photo-gear over-landing through Africa.
Photographing locals through Africa coast to coast keeps you busy, a camera with a little interaction is all that's required.
Roaming Wildlife - Africa
Do you want wildlife images like this? You'll need more than a junky smart phone camera - DSLR photo-gear works!
The majority of wildlife parkland sanctuaries, and reserves off the beaten track through Africa are well worth the transit time getting to them. Ethiopia alone has 3 different sanctuaries with elephant, baboon, and wolf packs. South Sudan has one of the largest migration runs in the continent every year when wildlife head south west to northern Uganda and DRC. Visiting gorillas can be done in DRC, with an added bonus of climbing live volcanoes near by. These are the same gorillas that are seen in Rwanda, but at 10x the cost. Mole park in Ghana, and Pandjari national park in Benin are 2 out of many sanctuaries that are worth visiting in west Africa.
Heading south, Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa all have more than their fare share of wildlife sanctuaries, with Serengeti, Okavango, Kruger, and Addo being the most well known parks full of mixed wildlife. Etosha national park in northern Namibia is also recommended en-route to Himba territory.
Zebra and giraffe are the most common animals easily spotted in wildlife parks. The breeding and migration seasons are the most rewarding times for snaps.
Wildlife parks and sanctuaries are scattered throughout the continent with some parks better than others. Using a vehicle or hiring drivers is required in most sanctuaries. There's more information covering this in the wildlife section. Camera gear is required to capture wildlife images. Forget about using cell phone cameras in the wild, go to zoos instead. My photo gear page.
These baboon images were captured on the go using a 12 MP DSLR body. Sounds pretty backward in 2022, but people familiar using DSLR camera gear know very well lenses rather than camera bodies get the credit. One can use the most expensive high tech camera bodies and end up with disappointing wildlife captures because of using cheap budget lenses. Using one good quality lens will out perform any low budget lens. If you're only traveling using smart phone cameras - don't waste your time trying to capture long shots out in the wilderness.
There's no way I could of captured the above image using smart phone cameras or point and shoots. The moving shot was taken from distance using a DSLR lens @600mm. So many people these days are fooled, and who really think their smart phone cameras will get tack sharp captures like this in the wilderness from long distance.
Overland travel with at least one DSLR camera and one quality lens, or stay home. Cell phone cameras and point and shoots are useless in most wildlife parks and sanctuaries. Most camera brands today are one and the same. Quality lenses aren't cheap, but they will guarantee satisfaction of captured wildlife images especially when enlarged into large canvas prints.
Freely roaming giraffe in northern Botswana, below, a close-up capture of an alpha male baboon within low line bush and shrub. This tough guy, by his teeth, has had numerous infighting with other members of his own troop, including other dominant males entering into his territory.
These image captures like most of the images through this website were taken using Nikon DSLR full frame photo gear.
Only In Africa
Public dress mode attire within some rural towns which have tribal presence through sub-continental Africa allow woman to be bare breasted anywhere they wish without issues. The above image shows an Angolan woman bare-breasted inside a supermarket shopping for essentials.
Cash has been around for centuries, it's still working as good as ever through Africa. Why go to a bank, or use an ATM card when there's loads of cash at your service directly on the street. The street cash vendor at the time of taking this image was counting through a wad of US dollars.
These kids don't have cell phones, xbox or fancy toys, they're used to basic lifestyle living, creating their own survival reality in the heartland of Africa. Probably over 90% of western children wouldn't be able to survive a month living in the middle of nowhere without complaining.
If street photography is something on your agenda, Africa will certainly entertain you with all types of different activity and street humor. Capturing random street snaps coast to coast through the continent have the same appeal, including plenty of positive interaction levels. Being street savvy is key!
Street photography, give it a try and surprise yourself, it's only a matter of heading out on to any busy road intersection, or sprawling auto repair zone, to capture images one off images. If you're energetic, it won't take long to fill up a camera's SD card up super fast. It doesn't matter which direction, or what city or town one chooses. Strolling around during daylight hours with exposed photo-gear is normally OK, with less risk of losing it, but it's certainly not recommended to stroll around anywhere after dark on the edges of big cities alone.
A local cruising across town on a two wheeler delivering truck tyres - typical seen through central Africa.
One vision typically seen in rural regions across Africa and the Mid-East are the abundance of camels, mules and goats. They are used for transporting produce, and bred for human consumption. The majority of Africans eat red meat i.e. pigs, deer, donkey, cows, camel, sheep, goat, wildebeest.
Khat (katha edulis) - North East Africa
Khat has a stimulant effect when chewed, similar to coca plant leaves. Chewing Khat will typically last 2-4 hours, with the effects being felt about 45 minutes after chewing starts.The effects are similar to stimulants as caffeine. Users become alert and experience euphoria. Some feel increased self-esteem and imagination. Khat is an illegal substance in the EU, USA, South Africa, and other western countries - classified as a narcotic drug. Khat can be sourced and purchased in open markets through north eastern Africa. Prices very on the quality and potency.
Magic Spells - Tribal Voodoo
Witchcraft voodoo medicine men can be seen through half of the African continent. They all have their own techniques using different potions of mixed substances applied to certain parts of their subjects. The image above shows an Angolan medicine man marking areas on a locals back using hot ash. While applying his magical mix of ingredients, the sounds of low vocal muttering chants are heard through the process.
A common visual seen within tribal territories are locals brandishing hunting rifles and machine guns. Cattle rustling, and issues with water and grazing among neighboring communities does flare up from time to time. Most locals in rural tribal groups who carry weapons have no hesitation to use them at the drop of a pin. There's also the rare occasion with foreign visitors who have been shot at when taking quick snaps without prior permission, or trying to avoid paying for image close up captures. In many cases, interacting and spending time (like a few hours - not 5 minutes) will give the opportunity to photograph freely without issues. Reaching tribal territories within red zone regions are a different kettle of fish. Islamist insurgency is ongoing. The risk factor is highly increased transiting through or staying within tribal communities that contain Islamic militant groups no matter their affiliation.
Below, landmine warning road signs are typically seen crossing international border regions through the continent. Strolling around past perimeters displaying landmine signage is at your own risk. Locals residing within these areas stick to well worn walking tracks. Treading on exploding mines will shred removing a leg in an instant.
Dabbling With Drugs - Africa
Cannabis and hashish is easily found throughout the African continent with each country implying their own drug laws, with some being more relaxed than others. Tourist havens along the coastal regions are certainly overflowing with enough drugs to sink a ship. Street drug sellers are plentiful, and offer various types of local weed, hashish, meth, LSD, and other drugs at give away prices. Hashish supplies in Sudan and Egypt originate from Morocco. Egyptian hemp is cultivated within the demilitarized zones in the Sinai Peninsula. Zanzibar has been cultivating hemp for centuries. South Sudan of late has clamped down on drug smuggling routes along their western borders (The Sahel route) due to seizures of large quantities of heroin and cocaine passing through the country. South Africa has recently decriminalized cannabis allowing the right to grow and smoke weed on private property, but foreigners caught in possession of any drugs will most certainly be heavily bribed. Possession of cannabis in Nigeria is still illegal, but it's one of the largest cultivators of hemp in Africa. Nigeria has long been a transit point for cocaine and heroin. In recent years the country has become a growing supplier of Chinese imported fentanyl and supplier of methamphetamine. Guinea-Bissau, Senegal and Morocco are also used as transit hubs to smuggle narcotics to Europe.
An 800kg consignment of cocaine was recently seized in Guinea-Bissau. Kenya has a growing heroin and meth epidemic with approximately 9 tonnes of heroin being used each year. East Africa is well known for large volumes of heroin, meth, and cocaine passing through major sea ports to Europe and north America. Normally, most foreigners traveling through the continent that divulge in weed and hash within "Safe Zones" have no issues with authorities who normally turn a blind eye with the odd bribe from underpaid street police. Getting searched for drugs en-route transiting overland through the continent is sporadic, but it does happen when you least expect it. One never knows what the end result or outcome is, if caught carrying a personal stash of cannabis or hashish. Like in South America, a lumpy cash bribe may get you a free pass, but foreigners in possession caught carrying meth, fentanyl or cocaine can result into a confined holiday in a flea ridden jail cell.
Random Humor Snaps - Africa
Some of the most humorous image snaps are captured during transit journeys through the continent.
Above snap, probably a secondhand set of van seats that will become a part of a new lounge suit, but the goat on the roof in transit takes the cake. The below image, a typical scenario when accommodation become hot boilers during the summer months across north Africa. Beds are dragged outside helping the itchy heat during the night. Viewing the cosmos watching shooting stars in comfort can't get easier.
Central Africa - Dugout Territory
Dugouts are scattered far and wide through the continent. I've personally used them as river and lake transport in Botswana, Malawi, Tanzania, and DRC. Transiting in dugouts in river rapids with travel baggage, especially camera gear is at your own risk and peril. Loosing stuff overboard happens, I've seen it happen, so take this as positive advice.
Street Chaos Africa - Enjoy It
City street chaos is seen throughout Africa. At most times fever pitched, an enjoyment to watch and observe, and to be amongst it all riding an MC, or onboard public transport. Finding a busy street corner photographing captures of local urban hustle and bustle is well worth the effort. The usual locations are central bus stations, market areas, and old quarters of cities. Lagos, Cairo, and Kampala are three entertaining cities, each having their own unique street humor. This is one form of being literally worn out without even going anywhere, most foreign travelers will handle a couple of days of high volume noise before escaping to quieter locations . Ezilon African map references
Solo Overland Africa - Interacting With Locals
Interacting with children can't be avoided through Africa. Capturing group shots like above becomes a weekly habit. We all have various forms of Interaction levels, although some do avoid using it with total strangers. After one or two years getting through Africa, people that may of had self-low esteem, or suffered from other forms of introverted issues will no doubt become liberated from those past problems.
Below, so many times, I've seen foreigners taking street snaps of locals without bothering to interact with them. Locals also take street snaps of others, like this woman below, and who usually enjoy and appreciate chit-chatting with strangers. If traveling solo, this can lead to invites visiting local's dwellings meeting other family members, and end-up staying for dinner, or even a few nights. This has happened to me on many occasions.
Overland Africa - Interacting Is Key!
Interaction amongst locals anywhere will automatically open up doors that you would never imagine. Without interaction, any overland transit journey through continents would be boring and wasteful. There are those who are either born shy or introverted, or even afraid to break the ice to communicate, to start open dialogue with locals. Africans in general are very hospitable towards strangers, especially African children and teenagers. They have everything to gain, while we travelers have nothing to lose.
There's the usual local crowd like anywhere else, who look at Westerners as cash cows, but this isn't something new in close radius near tourist resorts and hotels. Over-landing is a completely different ballgame for those doing the hard yards transiting across a continent. The further away one is from coastal resorts, the better things become. Intermingling with locals down at rivers is a good start. Wherever there's a river, there's action - a lot of action. This is where all the activity is located. locals washing clothes, washing themselves, watering stock, and children of all age groups playing soccer or just hanging out.
If you're the only foreigner in town then it's even better, and well worth an extra day or two absorbing local hospitality. Many Westerners jet setting across the skies to Africa prefer only to relax on a beaches all day sipping pina coladas partying hard out all night with other foreigners. When in Africa, at least try disassociating from the usual tourist hangouts. Do some real travel on your own, using basic transport crossing the continent coast to coast.
Bush Bus Transit - Enjoy The Journey
Local bush bus transit is the way to go getting through Africa. Food and snacks while in transit mode is readily available through the continent. Depending the amount of stops en-route, locals sell fried fish, meat, corn, and assorted fruits along highway pick ups and crossroads. Grilled meat, even though it looks good could be from fresh road kill, but if locals eat it, then what's the problem? On occasion, some isolated routes through the middle of nowhere, food supply can be minimal. What ever is available to eat is better than starving to death. Dried fish, beef jerky and raw garlic keeps hunger pains away.
Below, fresh road kill meat is abundant through the African heartland. Local small time food stalls found near transit stops never tell their customers their meat is road kill, but then asking locals nearby will tell you it's road kill meat. I normally take a quick peak in the bucket first smelling the contents if it's fresh before ordering a few grilled portions. Wild monkey meat is commonly sold in DRC. Let's just say I'm still healthy and active in the 2020s, so no eating issues happened through Africa.
Random Street Portraits
If random street portraiture is what you're looking for, the entire African continent will be satisfying. Capturing close-up images of locals, is created by your own interaction levels with subjects. In saying that, poking a lens in the face of strangers won't get you any respect, and will be considered rude. One has to remember 1000's of foreigners through the decades have traveled up and down the continent grabbing close-up snaps of probably the same African locals. So by chance one may encounter resistance from those who may have experienced tourists jamming lenses up in their faces. Using zoom lenses instead keeping distance works, but certainly not as satisfying as close-ups using DSLR full frame prime lenses.
Camera reliability is the major priority. There are limited trust worthy camera repairers through the continent, so don't purchase certain model cameras just because you've seen them heavily promoted online. Research camera models and brands, if they've been tried and tested within humid and dusty environments, and if the camera body can actually handle drop abuse punishment. I still use older DSLR full frame bodies and lenses, because of their already proven track record of reliability. Many foreigners have been caught out half way through overland journeys with defected cameras due to knocks and drops. Transiting through Africa using bush bus transport will test your baggage, your equipment and camera-gear to the limits - choose wisely.
Both images were captured using the same body and lens. Depending what photo gear is chosen for a days outing, a good zoom lens like a 70-200 f/2.8 will capture almost anything. There are times when fast prime lenses will come in handy, especially indoors with insufficient lighting. Moving subjects towards door entrances and windows is the most logical way of capturing low-light exposures.
Strolling around with a group of foreigners in tribal territory grabbing snaps of locals is common. It's more rewarding isolating yourself from the crowd than having half a dozen lenses pointing at the same subject. This allows quieter interaction times with locals without them suddenly disappearing.
A couple of quick fast street snaps of subjects on the go in and out of market areas using a DSLR full frame zoom lens.
In tribal territories across the continent, heavy tourism from rich fly in fly out foreigners have created a cycle within tribal hubs the common practice of "pay for images" protocol. To avoid this, jump on any available transport out to isolated villages where tourism is less common.
For most traveling to Africa is about Africa, not themselves, it's about meeting, interacting with all different kinds of people, strangers, the unknown. To explore enjoying the great outdoors of landscape wilderness, culture and wildlife. Then there are those that have zero interest finding it difficult letting go of their dreaded addiction clinging onto smartphones. You really notice this through Africa wherever foreigners congregate together. Selfie lovers are social media addicts. There travels are about taking more images of themselves than anything else. They are completely out of touch with what's around them with little or no interest interacting with locals. If you're going to Africa, avoid being one of them. Leave smartphones behind, and enjoy what's in front of you, and don't look back.
A large part of the beauty of Africa are the people themselves. As a street photographer, one never knows what subject will suddenly appear around the corner, up the road, or down a lane way.
Above, two of literally thousands of random streets snap portraits captured through Africa.
Young or old, east or west, north or south, Africa has you covered for any favorite subject out on the streets.
Above, a one hundred year plus local. She was out and about taking a stroll along a deserted road. She could barely see, and had limited hearing, but stopped and gave the opportunity to capture this image before continuing her walk. Below, a zoom lens street portrait.
Coptic Christians
Coptic Christians have been photographed by foreign tourists for decades. The best time capturing images of them is early morning on their way or returning from worshiping locations like below.
Lalibela - Amhara
How much time is required visiting the historical monolithic rock-hewn churches in Lalibela? One requires approximately three to four days slowly strolling in and around absorbing these works of early Christian heritage. Like other pilgrimage sites of other faiths and religions, it's best to avoid poking cameras in the faces of locals during their daily prayer times.
Above, steps leading to nowhere. Maybe Indiana Jones used this inspiration setting in the Last Crusade movie. Below, original entrances and handcrafted doors remaining in their same location for hundreds of years. Those like myself who enjoy visiting ancient historic sites shouldn't hesitate visiting Lalibela. Get to Ethiopia while you can while this region of Africa still holds its peace. Ethiopia can turn back in to civil war at a moments notice.
Like Islam, Buddhism and Hinduism, symbolism plays an important roll with all faiths. These crosses above have been touched by hands, heads and kissed by local pilgrims for more than a thousand years. Below, pilgrims resting after early morning prayer vigils at Lalibela.
Below, no interaction was required with this local pilgrim who happily gazed straight into the lens of a DSLR.
The actual size of these monolithic churches are deceiving, the image below shows a person standing in the background like the size of an ant. The best time visiting the churches is either in the mornings or late afternoon when the sun isn't so harsh. Midday cloudless skies in Lalibela can fry you - wear a hat.
The last of eleven monolithic Churches completed is the Church of Saint George (Biete Ghiorgis). All churches were made and created cutouts from volcanic rock. The total wall height of Saint George Church is 30 metres. An approximate 3900 cubic meters of rock was removed to complete the inner and outer of this monolith - Now that's a masterpiece of work.
Tribal Territory
The majority of tribal regions have been heavily promoted for tourism as far back as the 1970s. You'll be hard pressed to be the only one that has photographed a subject that has never been photographed. Even the subjects on this page taken in tribal lands have probably been photographed hundreds of times before. We can thank global tourism exploitation for that.
Today, there's an increasing amount of tribal youth who are veering away from their cultural roots because of the modern social changes occurring within their own societies. Many distinct ethnic heritages appear to be on a cultural collision course that's changing the significance and definition of tribal identity. This is visually seen with the younger indigenous generation who are abandoning their tribal dress wear for modern styled clothing, food, and music. There's also the new addiction to social media platforms among tribal teenagers in isolated regions which has skyrocketed over the last few years due to the construction of cell towers and the availability of cheap mobile phones and affordable internet.
Africa will keep most snap happy street photographers active capturing random images of indigenous locals sprawled throughout isolated regions through the continent. Ethiopia, although heavily trodden down with tribal tourism is still one of the easiest countries to travel through with the advantages of visiting numerous tribal communities spread far and wide through the country. Independent overland travel having no time schedules is required.
Traveling through Africa's tribal regions depends how much time one has. Namibia's far northern district, Angola, Zambia and DRC have sprawling indigenous tribes that can take months visiting them. Kenya and Ethiopia are known for their multi mix of indigenous tribes. Hiring your own vehicle, self-driving, or a driver is the best method in each country. Escaping from the usual tribal tourist traps is a feat in itself, but can be done if time isn't an issue.
Capturing portraits in tribal territory is rewarding and relatively easy with lots of humor. Ethiopia's southern region, the Omo Valley is well known for this, and even classified among many who pass through as a human zoo. The increase of tourism through the decades is the major root cause of this. Getting to remote villages well away from main touristic routes is recommended.
The majority of large tribal groups are situated in the backwaters in isolated regions well away from large cities, and urban sprawl. Being predominately farmers, and stock herders, many tribes own swabs of land for grazing, and cultivation. Owning stock within the tribal world is regarded a status symbol of power and wealth. As of late, due to the changing climatic weather patterns water has become scarce causing tribal farmers selling-off stock, and grazing their herds on neighboring tribal lands having pasture, and water supplies. When tribes clash against one another - no mercy is shown. The Kenyan/Ethiopian/Somali border regions are known for sporadic violent clashes, which in the past have forced closed border crossing routes.
Reaching tribal territories using local transport is for anyone looking for real time journey adventures. Hitching, jumping on board available transport ends up on the back of trucks loaded with locals, or squashed up in a packed out mini vans. Getting well away from villages used as heavy tourist hubs and choosing to stay with locals in basic accommodation off the beaten track are the only options left in the 2020s.
Ancient Kushite - Sudan
Late afternoon snap of the Nubian pyramids. The limited amount of foreign visitors to Sudan gives total freedom and isolation in all regions permitted to foreigners to visit. Exit permits are required and necessary to travel and transit overland through to South Sudan, Chad, and Central African Republic. The Darfur region, a sensitive red zone, difficult to visit, but feasible. Ethiopia and Eritrea land border crossings are straight forward without issues entering or exiting from both countries. Valid visas must be in order for all neighboring countries. Random street photography in Sudan is permitted. There have been instances of westerners who've had their cameras smashed by police for taking snaps of impoverished locals in Khartoum. One case involved two Swiss females who were taking street snaps of stacked piles of watermelons in Khartoum, both were beaten, arrested and humiliated. Sudan is not like Ethiopia or India where one can roam freely around capturing images of almost anything and anyone without being harassed. Ezilon political Sudanese map
Transiting through north Sudan isn't difficult as what it's made out to be. Sudanese visa requirements for foreigners come with the usual requests. The Sudanese Embassy in Kampala is probably the best option applying for rapid issued one month visas. I've had previous Sudanese visas issued from Kampala and Aswan within 24 hours. Once entering Sudan, all foreign nationals are required to register with police within 3 days. A police permit clearance form is also required for each hotel where one stays. A permit allowing to freely photograph is also necessary and can be obtained in Khartoum. The above regulations may have changed since writing this.
Okavango Delta - Botswana
Bird life, hippos, elephants, primates, zebra and giraffe are within close proximity to most campsites inside the Okavango Delta reserve. Late afternoon strolls is the best time to capture wildlife images.
If you enjoy walking amongst wildlife instead of being stuck in 4 wheel drives all day, the Okavango Delta is the place to be. Arranging 3 to 10 day excursions inside this amazing delta is done when arriving in Maun. Motorboats and small dugouts are used reaching various campsite locations inside the Okavango,. Recently, over 700 elephants died within a very short time span in the region.
The large variety of bird and wildlife inside the delta is well worth the flat charge rate per day which includes food, and guided walks. Elephants, giraffe, zebra, hippos, baboons, wildebeest, and springbok can be seen at close range. Botswana Ezilon map
Tribal Dress Mode - All Directions
Tribal dress wear, custom jewellery and clothes design identifies individual groups.
Locals displaying authentic dress wear within their own rural regions. Capturing random street images of locals in traditional dress is what foreigners look for. These two roadside snaps are good examples showing authentic dress wear within their territories.
Above, a woman and child in authentic Himba dress wear on foot heading into town picking up supplies. Below, Mursi tribe female ordained with large bone tusks, and nickel plated head wear.
Below, bright colorful dress wear worn by the many distinct tribal communities in and around the Harar region.
Below, roadside snap of a local ordained in necklace bead having certain colors distinguishing her heritage and ethnic roots to the Bena Tribe. She was returning to her dwelling ten kilometers further down the road carrying a strapped back-pack loaded with well water.
Random Stops -Tribal Territory
A roadside snap transiting through tribal territory. The image is rather deceptive, it shows a group of locals heading in quick haste towards the vehicle. There were only two or three locals who had spotted the vehicle pass by further up the road beyond their village. Within seconds, half the village were coming in hot pursuit towards me. Because the vehicle had parked within their territorial boundary taking quick snaps, they did have every right to check things out. Various indigenous tribes through the continent do expect some form of payment for close-up snaps. In general, most tribal groups don't bother asking for payouts when taking long-shots. This particular tribal group are known for their aggressive behavior, they were on a mission to extract some cash. The option to hang around was appealing, but the outcome may have resulted into a forced frenzy bounty payment. If one comprehends how tribal groups think in the middle of nowhere, you'll understand what I mean. A quick decision to leave with approximately 500 meters between them and the vehicle.
Night Feeding - Wild Hyenas
Night feeding wild Hyenas - An adrenaline fix that matches bungee jumping or abseiling down cliffs. The city of Harar is known for its history of wild hyenas roaming through the streets at night. This local, who resides on the outskirts of Harar has been feeding hyenas for years at his local dwelling during the evenings.
After dark, one can roam around the streets witnessing hyena close up scavenging for food scraps. These local hyena are well accustomed of wandering around freely through urban areas in Harar without being subjected to harassment. On a few occasions, I saw for myself packs of hyena cruising around after midnight. Ethiopian overland transit map Ezilon political map
Timeout - Lake Victoria
An early morning cruise in a dugout, or small row boat is one way to escape from heavy street noise for the day. Catching your own dinner for the evening on Lake Victoria is catfish, also available in many of the local food markets scattered around the lake in Tanzania, Kenya, and Uganda. Passing some free time grabbing snaps, and helping locals drag nets of catfish onto boats, and taking quick dips are my memories of Lake Vic. Ezilon maps - Uganda - Tanzania - Kenya
Namibia
Personally, Namibia is one out of the top five countries through the continent. Ethiopia, DRC, South Sudan and Mali follow close behind. Diversity, culture and landscape among these countries is what makes them stand out from the rest.
Namibia, a country well worth visiting for anyone looking for outdoor freedom. Rugged coastline, wilderness landscape and desert dunes as far as the eye can see. The desert region has an abundance of wildlife within areas covered in flora, and shrub. Getting through the country is by 4WD. When free camping out in the wilderness, an ample food supply, water, including spare fuel is essential. One should be aware when free camping of snakes and scorpions after sunset.
Namibia has you covered for all types of different travel and transit destinations. The country is still unspoiled compared to other African countries. I've rented 4 wheel drives, and basic public transport getting around with no issues.
Below, the remains of an American 1930's Hudson coupe laying dormant at the Solitaire gas station. It's probably one of the most photographed pieces of auto nostalgia en-route from Windhoek to Sossusvlei. There's a collection of different classic autos at this remote filling station to keep auto-buffs busy while topping up the 4WD with diesel.
Dune 7 - Namibia, also known as Big Daddy, situated between Sossusvlei and Deadvlei. The dune is approximately 325 meters in height, and probably one of the most climbed up dunes in Africa because of its easy access. The views of the surrounding desert environs are spectacular. There are many other sand dunes offering the same or even better views. The best time ascending dune 7, is early morning when the park gates open, or in late afternoon. Forget midday, the sun has no mercy. Namibian Ezilon map
Below, one of many landscape landmarks self-driving through Namibia, the country is well worth two or more visits through different seasons. Having no time limits without traveling in a mad rush (like many do) is the right way through this continent.
Street Captures
Most Africans are just as inquisitive looking at foreigners the same way as we observe them on the street. As mentioned through this website many times, positive interaction is the key to open barriers between strangers. Those having introverted issues traveling through Africa might as well stay at home down in their basements.
Above image, a shy young tribal shepherd who appeared out from bush shrub for enough time to grab this snap.
Ethiopia is one of the most rewarding countries on the eastern side of the continent to visit and travel through. Like India, Ethiopia has its own mixed diversity of different ethnic tribes and communities scattered in all directions. Random street photography in Ethiopia will wear most out. A three month visa is sufficient time for Ethiopia.
A Coptic Christian priest who looked as if he disliked being photographed. The glaring look was actually created from the lag time until the priest realized he was being photographed, until he suddenly looked in my direction from 30 meters distance. We had crossed paths again the following day exchanging quick smiles from opposite sides of the street.
It doesn't matter which side of the African continent one begins an overland transit journey. Whether from Morocco, transiting south down through the Ivory coast to South Africa, or from the Cape northbound to Egypt. Both overland transit routes require time.Traveling through isolated areas of the Sahel is dangerous, and is at your own risk and peril.
Over-landing from Nigeria across to Djibouti today is certainly classified as a Red Zone. The days of freedom without worrying what's behind your back are gone. This includes north eastern regions in DRC to the Mediterranean coast (Algeria, Niger, C.African Rep, Libya, Chad). There are no rules or regulations stopping anyone passing through these countries. Snitching is the main cause of random targeting. Sourcing up to date information from locals is a priority before transiting through red zone regions.
Over the last few years, the culling of western tourists by Islamic extremists has been ongoing in Kenya, Tanzania, Ethiopia, Somalia, Niger, Morocco, and Egypt. This certainly hasn't stopped the flow of western foreigners visiting these countries. Once Covid restrictions begin to lift, foreigners will flock in droves across the continent thinking of freedom more than their safety. A major issue for western foreigners transiting through central and northern Africa is hotel accommodation. The word of any western tourist staying in isolated hotels in southern Chad, or on along the border regions of Nigeria, Niger, north eastern Kenya, central and southern Somalia, Libya and Mali spreads faster than wildfire. This is how simple it is for foreigners to be randomly taken hostage and victimized. One can never know what could eventuate in a moments notice. Every region has its own mixed diversity and friendly locals with positive interaction. Snitching is common practice. Snitches can be almost anyone affiliated to Islamist groups. It may be hotel staff, taxi drivers, over friendly locals, or those indoctrinated with anti western Christian dislikes and values.
The Central African region is known for its tall people. Those traveling overland coast to coast in either direction from Nigeria to north Sudan will certainly bump into locals towering above 2.3 meters.
The female below was well over two meters (6.5 ft) in height. And yes, I should have captured more shots of this tall beauty at lower levels before she disappeared. This is what happens occasionally when one is hypnotized by what they see in front them.
Himba Territory
Above, Himba in tribal dress wear strolling in motion carrying supplies through the streets of Opuwo township. Invitation to visit and stay with Himba for a few days or more can be organized within Opuwo - highly recommended.
Himba woman with customary solid hair plaits with bodies coated with mixtures of otjize, butter paste and red ochre.
Each and every tribe follow their own customs and traditions, like this hair plait design, it is distinctive of the Himba tribe. The Himba are the most outgoing friendly tribal community in southern Africa. The small Himba tribal community arenchilled, even with the onslaught of tourism. Reaching the township of Opuwo is from southern Angola, north western Botswana, and Windhoek .
Spending a week or two with Himba is hassle free and enjoyable.
Capturing random interaction street snaps is a part of any overland travel journey - Don't hesitate You'll regret it!
Heading To Market - Evert Town Has One
A large part of the African ambience is taking random street captures of locals going about their daily routines. Sheep and cattle markets are always overflowing with locals trading or selling their stock. Most rural villages, or townships have a vibrant animal market which are usually located just on the edge of any town. Animal markets are a great place to capture close-up interaction snaps of locals, and different activity.
Looking for real African atmosphere? Small rural markets on the edge of towns is a good place to start.
Zambezi Catchment
Vic falls is a great place to hang out for a few days relaxing, enjoying the ambience of the Zambezi environs. It's one of the main crossroad junctions heading in all directions across southern Africa. If anyone's transit route, is towards the Congo, the DRC Embassy in Lusaka issue visas without too much fuss. Transiting southward, valid yellow fever certificate is requested before entering South Africa.
Zambian Ezilon map /Zimbabwe Ezilon map
If you pass through Khartoum one location not to miss is the joining of the Niles. The merging of the White and Blue Nile rivers is best seen on Tuti Island. One can also grab a quick snap from the old english bridge, but harassment may occur from bridge security officers which depending on the day may or may not allow photography and seize your SD card. The image above shows the Blue Nile on the left verging with the White Nile flowing from the bridge. The old colonial bridge was actually dismantled in India and brought to Sudan by the British.
Above, the White Nile flowing through Southern Sudan. Below, The Blue Nile catchment in upper Ethiopia.
Distinctive Tradition - Tattoo
Ethiopian Coptic woman who have customary tattoos are generally spotted within rural communities throughout the country. Looking for them is simplified by visiting small out of town villages away from any large hub. They can also be seen during busy market days, which are normally held weekly by different locals gathering within a 100km radius. There are close similarities in tattoo designs with other ethnic groups in India, and Myanmar. Below, a 90+ year old Coptic woman proudly displays her full throat and lower jaw line tattoo.
Bangles and Anklets
Grabbing close-up snaps of tribal jewellery, bracelets, necklaces, and leather garments is within busy market areas when locals congregate together selling and trading goods. Market days are always cluttered with women adorned with handcrafted neck, arm and leg bracelets. Women from the Hamar tribe wear enough neck and leg bracelets to sink a ship, but they're probably the most fittest, and strongest of all the tribes put together throughout Africa.
Above, a normal vision seen within tribal communities of bare foot woman adorned with solid heavy calf bracelets.
Most arm and leg bracelets, bangles and anklets are constructed from raw metals from nickel, silver, brass and copper.
The Hamer and Himba tribes maybe separated by thousands of kilometers from one another, but both tribes share common nomadic pastoralist lifestyles .They also share the same traditional customs of wearing heavy duty anklets displaying their own unique designs. The anklets also severe the purpose of protecting them from venomous snakebites.
Rooftop Plateau - Lesotho
Dirt track routes from South Africa through the Drakensberg mountains to Lesotho are many. Once arriving up on to the plateau, the barren landscape welcomes you with a slight wind chill, turning into snow blizzard during winter season. The 3000+ high altitude plateau is used for grazing during summer by local farmers. It's common spotting highland herdsmen riding bareback wrapped in blankets mustering their herds. Lesotho Ezilon map
Bushland Black Tea
There's never a problem finding chai or coffee in the middle of nowhere. It is true, the grubbier the pot, the better the tea tastes. Africans in general are addicted coffee tea drinkers. They sip devouring their favorite hot drinks non-stop all day. Locations wherever tea, coffee and snacks are sold are also good locations to capture random portraits.
Roadside Snaps
It's common in tribal communities for residents to walk kilometers from one village to another. Capturing random snaps of ethnic individuals along roadsides in between villages is best during the early morning or late afternoons. Villages share multiple water bores where woman congregate washing clothes, or to pickup fresh water supplies. In Africa, wherever there's a water supply, there's usually activity and action.
Baobab trees (bottle neck) perched along a stretch of highway - Northern Mozambique.
Pack horses are still used in isolated rural villages transporting product and farm cultivation.
Small Himba camps located close to dirt roads and are easily approached without issues. The above camp was situated heading north towards the Angolan border. Below, best mates, Hamer tribesmen are typically seen grazing stock within their allotted land plots beside dirt track highways.
Below, for decades the Mursi tribe have heavily relied on tourism. This has caused Mursi groups to be solely dependent on cash donations from tourists. This has caused an aggressive behavior from some locals who demand over rated fees to enter their camps, including any photography. Excessive alcohol consumption plays a part of the aggressive behavior which I witnessed first hand at one particular Mursi camp. Two other foreigners didn't even bother to get out of their own vehicle, due to the aggressive atmosphere. Heavy tourism through the years is the direct blame causing internal problematic issues. limiting tourism would solve this problem.
Markets and Rivers - Rural Africa
Africa certainly has no shortage of babies. Woman with their young, wrapped in linen on their backs are normally seen in rural markets. Baby snap captures are generally easy to get throughout the African continent. In general, most mothers enjoy being photographed with their young. Good locations are at open vegetable, meat, and fish markets, or down at any river or estuary where locals congregate collecting water, and washing clothes.
Above, Isolated tribal communities washing and collecting water supplies at rivers is an everyday occurrence and witnessed in remote regions through the continent. Some tribal groups may resent being photographed. The first few days creating a positive atmosphere interacting with locals first without using camera gear is recommended.
Below, wharves and shipping docks buzzing with activity in the mornings. Watching locals off-loading surplus goods and produce from cargo and fishing boats is certainly entertaining. Finding good angles capturing images depends on each location.
Random street snaps like below may not look appealing at first, but this is the Real World we live and travel in.
Quick Snaps
African street chill-outs have their own ambience and style. This sidewalk cafe had a unique setting displaying a hand painted abstract spread along the wall of local rural culture. With no camera at the time, I grabbed this snap with a cell. camera. At the end of the day anything that can take an image is better than nothing.
Sometimes taking a quick snap during transit turn out better than expected like these children caught floating in mid-air with a view of local landscape. Rural village markets are always bustling with locals with a variety of different motion images that can be captured. The snap below shows a local manually sifting corn maize separating the chaff.
Boat Building - Manually
Credit certainly has to go to local boat builders along African coastlines. A part of their ingenuity is by using basic tools required to construct an ocean going boat. Basic tools like a crowbar, hand saw, chisel and hammer, are the only tools used from start to finish completing floatable boats. Some of the wood used is either washed-up sea debris found along shorelines, discarded fence posts, and wooden planks from nearby building sites.
Shembe - Southern Africa
Although the Shembe are known more as a religious group in the southern half of Africa, they also do have tribal roots. Each year, the Shembe celebrate their traditional rituals and customs in certain regions wearing leopard skin, and meerkat tails. They play their own musical rhythms with chants, dance and songs. No footwear is allowed at Shembe festivals, if the Shembe himself plans to visit. It's bare feet all day.
If there was ever an image that I could say was difficult to capture, the below portrait would be one of them. An invitation to private Shembe gatherings is difficult at best, let alone trying to grab an image of their Leader - Bishop Mduduzi Shembe.
Semi Nudity - Tribal Lands
Westerners who have a problem with nudity in their own countries will certainly have to deal with their personal dislikes of nudity through Africa within tribal zones. There's no escape of seeing nudity in tribal-lands - male and female,. Those who have a problem with nudity should avoid tribal territory. Go to to beaches instead.
Tribal lands throughout Africa well off the beaten track within in the middle of nowhere contain different forms of nudity. Some tribal groups bathe and wash completely stark naked without embarrassment with both sexes sharing the same river location together. Some foreigners visiting these locations may feel uncomfortable viewing a crowd of naked locals semi or completely naked washing clothes, bathing , or taking a dunk to cool off. Locals will normally ignore foreigners without any fuss or bother. Interacting will depend if any idiot western tourist in the past had upset someone, like photographing a married female, or ignoring the tribal vibe around them before taking images.
Like anywhere else, using basic common sense, and interacting with locals first is how it works. Almost the majority of isolated tribal groups throughout Africa are accustomed of displaying various forms of public nudity within their communities without issues. This is witnessed from South Africa as far up as Ethiopia and across to the Ivory Coast.
Above, two locals from the Himba tribe taken in public on the streets of Opuwo township in Namibia. Westerners over-landing through Africa for their very first time maybe offended by tribal nudity. This can't be avoided wherever tribal communities congregate - like down at most rivers where tribal groups normally bath and wash semi-naked, or within their villages. This is a normal occurrence seen in Africa without exaggerated fuss and bother - a prohibited taboo in the West, unless at a registered nudist camp, or inside a grotty strip club. Photographing anyone semi-naked will depend on who it is, and if they allow it. Tribal woman can quickly become aggressive towards foreigners capturing images of them without positive interaction and permission.
Below, a Himba female with prepared smoked aromatic herbs mixed with resins similar to incense used as an antimicrobial body cleansing agent.
