AFRICA - Solo Overland Travel & Transit

"Solo travel through Africa will draw many back for a 2nd journey transiting the continent"

Cape Town, Cairo and Tangier are the 3 main gateways into Africa. All 3 entry points have various choices to crisscross and transit towards any chosen destination. The great escape into the heartland of the African wilderness off and well away from main bitumen highways is simple enough. Local bush buses, trucks, and jeeps run in all directions on dirt roads or tracks. There's a maze of detours across the continent which still remain isolated due to local conflicts and upheavals and are the usual cause for border closures. In general, most border crossings do reopen or deviate at another border crossing a few hundred kilometres up the road. The window of opportunity to overland  transit through remote regions or red zones can be accomplished when there's a lull or retreat in insurgency through a particular route. Fresh updated information can always be sourced close to any region of intended transit. Visas, additional red tape and permits are usually required to cross through sensitive border areas  i.e. Sudan via Chad true to Nigeria - travelling this route is at your own risk.   
Transiting through certain regions of Africa using local transport is always a blast. Anything and everything is possible with some journeys taking longer than expected due to breakdowns and deviations. Time with lots of patience is the most valuable asset to have. Forget about pre-planning, organising, or having any form of scheduled itinerary thru central Africa. In the West, if a bus or train is delayed for more than 30 minutes, total chaos results, but within the heart of Africa, if transport shows up 5 days later, most locals are happy it arrived without even complaining.

Overland Coast To Coast

There's plenty of internal inland road and bush track routes connecting east Africa across to west Africa. The majority of continent crossings from DRC upwards have banditry and Islamic militia groups maintaining their presence attacking and striking at will. The overland transit route from Ethiopia to Nigeria isn't a journey for the meek, but it's one of the quickest short-cuts from coast to coast. The route is locally known as a main supply-line for drugs and arms smuggling. The region from Darfur-Sudan and onwards thru to N'Djamena into Borno State-Nigeria contains uncontrolled areas of Islamic militia groups. This is a Red Zone overland transit route that has a high risk level for western foreigners to be taken hostage. Border areas thru this region will become volatile and dangerous after dark. Issued visas for Chad, C.A.R, and Cameroon should already be in order. Nigerian visas normally have a 3 month window to enter from the date of issue. Depending wherever the visa was issued, one can be lucky enough to receive a 3 month pass. The Cameroon Gambaru-Nigerian border crossing is the main road route to Abuja, but it's also the most dangerous region of the country containing Boko Haram insurgency. The option of transiting further south to the coastal border crossing thru Cameroon to Calabar will by-pass the northern red zone in Nigeria. In saying that, hostage taking, car jacking, and insurgency attacks in northern Cameroon also happens. This route can be done in either direction, at your own risk. If you're not afraid of doing some hard overland travel, and putting up with smelly egg farts and body odours, toxic dog breath, tons of dust and vibration with the odd breakdown - overland transit through the central region of Africa using basic transport is for you.

Northern Gateway

Cairo, a bustling city overflowing with overpacked pavements and clogged avenues with jammed up traffic. Cairo may seem out of order on arrival, but this is what makes the city so unique. It's actually a vibrant mix with a clash of sprawling french flavoured palaces and museums. Cairo is known to contain the most mosques for a city globally. Cairo will keep most busy for couple of weeks doing random street photography, visiting Giza, including the museums. Strolling around inside Cairo's maze of mixed bazars and passing through the Coptic quarter is also recommended. The choices of entering into Egypt can be done by land, sea or air. Because of the on-going conflicts in Syria and Libya, the only overland road route from the north is from Jordan or Israel via the Sinai. An Israeli stamp, or any issued entry stamp from the Jordanian or Egyptian immigration upon exiting Israel will give problems when applying for a Sudanese visa. It's automatic procedure for Sudanese Embassy and Consular staff to check every page in passports for an Israeli stamp, including neighbouring Arab entry stamps. This also applies with other African Arab nations except Morocco and Tunisia. The Greek shipping line from Cyprus to Alexandria has ceased operations until further notice. Hitching a passage on board cargo ships is still possible. If coming through from Turkey, there are boat connections to Rhodes from Maramis and Mersin to Beirut. The only available overland route from Egypt to Sudan is from Aswan to Wadi Halfa by boat which sails once a week, or by bus and boat via Abu Simbel. There has been chit chat from both countries to open a public land border crossing along the coast, but this has been in the works for decades with no results as yet. The Sudanese consulate in Aswan is familiar with foreigners applying for visas. The Ethiopian Embassy in Khartoum will usually issue tourist visas within 24 hours. Due to the complications of militia transitions throughout the northern and central regions of Africa, it's advisable to get the latest updates first hand on the ground. Crossing from Sudan to Nigeria can be done, but doing this particular journey is entirely at your own risk. 

African Transit Routes - Tangier : Cape Town : Amman 

Carving out an overland journey route in either direction up or down the African continent is simple. The mapping routes above were completed over a 12 month period. Time and patience is a must to complete a solo overland trip like this. As always, some land borders do close while others are re-opened, so it's always imperative to check the latest updates to ensure international borders are open on the transit routes planned. 
What's what in the Transit Baggage page covers the basic necessities of different items having a proven track record with my own approval rating. On any long-term overland travel, there's always the dilemma of deciding what photo gear to carry in transit. The Photo-Gear page covers a variety of different Nikon equipment with a range of different accessories that have been used in past overland transit journeys with most photo-gear still being used today.

Africa overland transit - Jump on board any available transport and enjoy the ride. Reaching Africa is one thing, overland travel through difficult parts of the continent is something else. Jumping on the top of cattle trucks or in packed-out bush-vans is one way to do it. Sometimes, these are the only choices to get lifts within isolated regions that have minimal public transport. Grabbing lifts on trucks is normal procedure amongst locals. If you can handle the free amounts of bull dust in your face, thumps and bumps with endless vibration rattling through the body, including breakdowns, and  grinding along  bush-track highways for a few days, then what are you waiting for?

Southern Gateway  

Cape Town, the southern hub of Africa, a city that rocks 24/7.  Cape Town is a perfect entry gateway into (or exit out of) Africa, with an amazing, vibrant feel that keeps one staying longer than expected. The panoramic views of Table Mountain and Lion's Head, are welcome vistas - from dawn to dusk - from anywhere throughout the city. Planning a visit in this region is recommended during the summer months. The Antarctic southerly wind freezes this city through most of the winter season. Transiting overland from Morocco or Cairo to South Africa also offers a gateway out of Africa with direct flights to South America landing in Sao Paulo or Buenos Aires. South African Ezilon map

Solo Overland Bus Transit 

As the title heading stipulates, solo overland transit using local transportation to get through Africa is more simple than what many may assume. Africans do it everyday without questioning how comfortable the seats are, or if the driver has a heavy foot down on the pedal flogging the bus to death at high speed all day. This is certainly a part of the overland transit journey experience whether it's liked or not. Using local transport has many hidden positives for the visitor which most organised tourist overland operators are lacking. Interaction is the key ingredient through any of the continents which can  open many doors. This is easily achieved just by using local transport up or down the continent interacting with local passengers. Random invitations from locals to eat, stay, or become a guest for a few days does happen, and more often than I can say in my own country. The majority of public bus transportation from South Africa through to Egypt operates the same way - packed and primed -up to the hilt. Using bush-buses off-main highways has relatively the same experience with an added bonus of vibration, dust, and breakdowns. In general, Africans transiting on buses are extremely friendly towards foreigners with many going out of their way to assist or help with local information. Don't think twice to solo travel throughout Africa using local transportation. Any journey is full of surprises making what overland travel and transit is all about - Enjoyment!

AFRICA - Diversity In All Directions​

No matter where one begins, or ends a journey through Africa, the window of this vast continent will open up endless visions hypnotising the visitor. Barren savannah, diverse landscape, tribal presence, and an abundance of wildlife are the natural jewels of this continent.

The central lake district shared by the Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania, Burundi, Rwanda and Zambia is the transit overland gateway through to west Africa. A DRC visa can be easily obtained in Lusaka or Nairobi. (there are no consulates). It takes approximately five days waiting time to receive a DRC visa. I had coughed out $150 USD for a DRC visa issued in Kenya. Entering the DRC through the Rwanda land border crossing may result with an added corruption payout of hundreds of dollars to get through. This depends on nationality, and the immigration officials at the appointed time of entering this particular land border. Some foreigners pass through this border without added payouts, while others on the same day end-up paying bribes. My advise, is to travel further south into Burundi and cross over at the Bujumbura/ DRC land border where corruption handouts are less frequent, and then transiting north to Goma. There is also another DRC land/lake border further south at Kalemie across the lake from Tanzania, although infrequent unscheduled boat transport from Tanzania to Kalemie will test your patience. The Kalemie crossing are for those heading south to Lubumbashi into Zambia, or too slowly continue overland to Kinshasa. A Rwandan double entry visa makes it easier for those who want to return from the Goma region. Overland travel and transit through the DRC is not recommended in the wet season unless one has plenty of time to find available transport that's operational. Walking around after dark with baggage, or photo-gear in DRC is certainly not advisable unless you want to loose it. Ezilon political maps - DRC  Burundi Rwanda

African savannah dusk silhouettes are plentiful across the entire southern part of the continent. Below left, the weird and wonderful of processed tribal tourism, and who one can suddenly expect to meet along roadsides when driving through tribal territory. 

AFRICA - It's DSLR Territory

No matter what you've read or heard about with smart phone cameras - they're useless to capture any distant wildlife. Any quality DSLR camera body with a reasonable long reach tele-lens will be more satisfying when images are enlarged for canvas wall art. Many have regretted using their smart phone cameras instead of DSLR's in wildlife sanctuaries and parks.
These two image snaps were captured between 300 to 400 metres using a zoom lens, Smart phone cameras no-matter the brand won't give far distant images good quality close-up results - Travelling with a DSLR and a few lenses will get any shot every time no-matter the distance.     or 

Street Photography - Africa

Nothing beats capturing random close-up street portraits through Africa. Travelling through the continent with at least one decent camera body with a few lenses will be put to good use almost everyday. Brand names aren't important, only the reliability of a camera body that can handle knocks and drops. Smart phones don't cut it no matter the brand, a low-light image snap taken from a cell phone increased 3x of its original size will expose mass amounts of grain. Capturing close-up random street portraits with total strangers will require positive interaction levels for satisfied results. Without a camera, or having zero interaction skills, any overland journey through the continent will be sub-par outside the perimeter of tourist zones. As usual, researching through endless amounts of camera and lens reviews before purchasing photo-gear is recommended. Never buy a camera just because it's the latest released model. Reliability is first priority for any photo-gear to survive abuse through Africa on a 12-18 month overland journey.

Wildlife Africa - It's Abundant  

The majority of wildlife parklands, sanctuaries, and reserves off the beaten track through Africa are well worth the transit time getting to them. Ethiopia alone has 3 different sanctuaries with elephant, baboon, and wolf packs. South Sudan has one of the largest migration runs in the continent every year when wildlife head south west to northern Uganda and DRC. Visiting gorillas can be done in DRC, with an added bonus of climbing live volcanoes near by. These are the same gorillas that are seen in Rwanda, but at 10x the cost. Mole park in Ghana, and Pandjari national park in Benin are 2 out of many sanctuaries that are worth visiting in west Africa. Heading south, Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa all have more than their fare share of wildlife sanctuaries, with Serengeti, Okavango, Kruger, and Addo being the most well known parks full of mixed wildlife. Etosha national park in northern Namibia is also recommended en-route to Himba territory.  

Wildlife parks and sanctuaries are scattered everywhere throughout the continent with some parks better than others. Hiring a vehicle or a driver is required in most regions. There's more information covering this in the wildlife section. Photo-gear is also required to capture great looking snaps - you can forget about using a cell phone unless you're at a zoo, there's a ton of info in the photo-gear page.

Zebra and giraffe are the most common animals easily spotted in wildlife parks. The breeding and migration seasons are the most rewarding times for snaps. 

Giraffe freely roaming in northern Botswana, below, a close-up capture of an Alpha male baboon within low line bush and shrub in southern South Africa. 

​​Only in Africa​​

Public dress mode attire within some rural towns which have tribal presence through sub-continental Africa allow woman to be bare breasted anywhere they wish without issues. The above image shows an Angolan woman bare-breasted inside a supermarket shopping for essentials. Cash, it's still working as good as ever through Africa - why go to a bank, or use an ATM card when there's loads of cash at your service directly on the street. The vendor at the time of taking this image was counting through a wad of US dollars.

These kids don't have cell phones, xbox, or spoilt with fancy toys, they're used to basic lifestyle living creating their own survival reality in the heart of Africa. Probably over 90% of western children wouldn't be able to survive a month living in the middle of nowhere without complaining. 

If street photography is something on your agenda, Africa will certainly entertain you with all types of different activity and street humour. Capturing random street snaps from both coasts of the African continent have the same appeal with great interaction levels. Give it a try and surprise yourself, it's only a matter of heading out to any busy road intersection or any sprawling auto repair zone to capturing some amazing images. If you're energetic, it won't take long to fill up a camera's SD card super fast. It doesn't matter which direction, or what city or town one chooses to capture street images - they're everywhere. Strolling around during daytime with photo-gear is usually ok, but it's certainly not recommended anywhere after dark.

One vision that's typically seen in rural regions across Africa and the Mid-East is the abundance of camels, mules and goats used for transporting goods and produce, and also breed and culled for human consumption.

Khat has a stimulant effect when chewed, similar to coca plant leaves. Chewing Khat will typically last 2-4 hours, with the effects being felt about 45 minutes after chewing starts.The effects are similar to stimulants as caffeine. Users become alert and experience euphoria. Some feel increased self-esteem and imagination. Khat is an illegal substance in the EU, USA, South Africa, and other western countries - classified as a narcotic drug.

Witchcraft voodoo medicine men can be seen through half of the African continent. They all have their own techniques using different potions of mixed substances applied to certain parts of their subjects. The image below shows an Angolan medicine man marking areas of a patient with hot ash before applying his magical mix of ingredients with low vocal verbal muttering chants. A common visual seen within tribal territories are locals brandishing hunting rifles and machine guns. Cattle rustling, and issues with water and grazing among neighbouring communities does flare up from time to time. Most locals in rural tribal groups who do carry weapons have no hesitation to use their guns at a drop of a pin. There's also the rare occasion of foreign visitors who have been shot at when taking quick snaps without prior permission or trying to avoid not paying for an image. Interacting before hand in tribal zones will usually give plenty of free image captures. 

Above snap, probably a  second hand hand set of van seats which will become apart of a new lounge suite - but the goat on the roof in transit takes the cake. The below image is a typical scenario when hotel rooms become hot boilers during the summer months, beds are dragged outside to help the itchy heat during the night - viewing the cosmos watching shooting stars in comfort can't get easier. 

Dabbling With Drugs Through Africa

Cannabis and hashish is easily found throughout the African continent with each country implying their own drug laws, with some being more relaxed than others. Tourist havens along the coastal regions are certainly overflowing with enough drugs to sink a ship. Street drug sellers are plentiful, and offer various types of local weed, hashish, and other drugs at give away prices. Hashish supplies in Sudan and Egypt normally originates from Morocco. Egyptian hemp is cultivated within the demilitarised zones in the Sinai Peninsula. Zanzibar has been cultivating hemp for centuries. South Sudan of late has clamped down on drug smuggling routes along their western borders due to the seizure of large quantities of heroin and cocaine passing through the country. South Africa has recently decriminalised cannabis allowing the right to grow and smoke weed on private property. Possession of cannabis in Nigeria is still illegal, but it's one of the largest cultivators of hemp in Africa. Nigeria has long been a transit point for cocaine and heroin, but in recent years the country has become a growing producer of methamphetamine. Guinea-Bissau, Senegal and Morocco are also used as transit hubs to smuggle narcotics to Europe. An 800kg consignment of cocaine was recently seized in Guinea-Bissau. Kenya has a growing heroin and meth epidemic with approximately 9 tonnes of heroin being used each year. East Africa is well known for large volumes of heroin, meth, and cocaine passing through major sea ports to Europe and north America. Normally, most foreigners travelling through the continent that divulge in weed and hash within "Safe Zones" have no issues with authorities who normally turn a blind eye. Getting searched en-route transiting overland through the continent is sporadic, but it does happen. One never knows what the end result and outcome if caught carrying a personal stash of cannabis or hashish. Like in South America, a lumpy cash bribe may get you a free pass, but possession of meth or cocaine may result into a confined holiday in a flea ridden jail cell.

Street Chaos Africa - Enjoy it

City street chaos is felt and seen all the way through Africa. At most times it's at fever pitch, which is an enjoyment to watch and observe, or to be in amongst the middle of street chaos riding an MC, or onboard public transport. Finding a busy street corner photographing captures of local urban hustle and bustle is well worth the effort. The usual places to do this are usually near central bus stations, market areas, and the old quarters of any city. Grabbing snaps of locals this way is fun with loads of humour. Lagos, Cairo, and Kampala are 3 of many large cities that are entertaining with their own forms of street humour, and will probably wear out most foreign visitors after a day or two.  
​Ezilon African countries map references 

Solo Travel - Interacting Through Africa  

So many times, I've witnessed foreigners taking random street snaps of locals without bothering to interact with them. Older people like this tribal woman above usually appreciate chit-chatting with strangers. Grabbing a few street snaps with a point and shoot and then handing them the camera to look at the images really goes a long way. If solo, It can lead to an offer of visiting a local's dwelling, meeting other family members, and end up stying for dinner. I've never had an incident thru nearly 4 decades of overland travel of someone dropping a camera - Try it and see where it takes you.

Safety First - Don't Think Twice

Razor wire is seen everywhere throughout the continent, and it isn't just for show. Foreign visitors are robbed and mugged all the time - every day somewhere within the African shorelines. Most of the time, it's the visitors who are at fault, due to a lack of street instinct and awareness of what's happening around them at certain locations. Safe lodging is with some form of security with either a 24hr reception, or a guard hanging outside the complex. This may stop thieves, and robbers from entering a hotel freely at their own will, but it certainly won't stop anyone from being mugged and robbed after dark when returning to a hotel. I would recommend to always pick an upstairs room, and using your own lock and key when possible. Coiled razor wire hanging along  the outside of a hotel window is an added bonus. Razor wired hotels are not just in Africa, it's also commonly seen and used  in Brazil, Venezuela, Argentina, the Caribbean, Central America, the Middle East, and some regions in Asia.

Transiting Africa - Interaction is Key​​

Interaction amongst locals anywhere will automatically open up doors that you would never imagine. Without it, any overland transit journey through a continent would be boring, and wasteful. There are those who are either born shy or introverted, or even afraid to break the ice to communicate, or start a dialogue with locals. Africans in general are very hospitable towards strangers, especially African children and teenagers.
There's the usual crowd - like anywhere else, who look at Westerners as cash cows, but this isn't something new anywhere within a 50km radius of any tourist resorts or hotels. Over-landing is a completely different ballgame for those who plan to do the hard yards transiting across a continent. The further away one is from any coastal resorts, the better things become. Intermingling with locals down at the nearest river is a good start. Wherever there's a river, there's action - a lot of action. It's where all the activity is like locals washing clothes, washing themselves, watering stock, including children of all age groups either playing soccer or just hanging out.
If you're the only foreigner in town then it's even better, and well worth an extra day or two absorbing the local hospitality. Some Westerners who fly the mileage to Africa prefer to relax on a beach all day sipping pina coladas, and partying hard out all night long with other foreigners without mixing with locals. If you're in Africa, at least try to disassociate from the usual tourist haunts for a week or two, without internet, a cell phone or wifi, and travel inland and enjoy the company of local Africans, who will give their time, space, and energy to those who interact with them.  Image: Nuer tribal children on the banks of the Baro river (Sudan/Ethiopian border region)

Snacks In Transit - Eat Your heart Out

A continuous food supply while in transit mode is usually available throughout the continent. Locals normally sell fried fish, meat, corn, and assorted fruits along highways, and at transit stops. Some grilled meat even though it tastes good could be from fresh road kill, but if locals are eating it, then what's the problem?

Grabbing Close-Up Snaps

If random street portraiture photography is what you're looking for the entire African continent will satisfy you. Capturing close-up images of locals is created by your own interaction with them. In saying that, poking a lens in the face of strangers won't get you any respect or kudu points, and will be considered rude by some locals. One has to remember that 1000's of foreigners through the decades have travelled up and down the continent grabbing close-up snaps of probably the same Africans, so by chance you may encounter resistance from some who may have experienced someone jamming a lens up in their face by an inconsiderate foreigner. No matter how long it takes - Interaction will usually guarantee success. Using a zoom lens instead, and keeping some distance also works, but certainly not as satisfying as a close-up full frontal capture using prime lenses like the 85mm/105mm. Those doing long-term solo overland travel and transit through Africa and beyond should also seriously look at what photo-gear of choice is taken. 
Reliability is the major priority. There are limited trust worthy camera repairers through the continent, so don't purchase a camera just because you've seen it heavily advertised displaying vivid images online. Research the model and brand if it has already been used within humid and dusty conditions, and if the camera body can handle drop abuse punishment. I still use older DSLR bodies and lenses because of their proven reliability. Many foreigners have been caught out half way through an overland trip with a defected camera because of it being knocked or dropped. Transiting through Africa using local bush buses with also test your baggage, equipment and camera-gear to the limits - choice wisely. 

Both of these images were captured using the same body and lens. Depending on what photo-gear is chosen for a days outing, a good zoom lens like a 70-200 f/2.8 will cover almost anything, but as mentioned, either an 85/105mm prime lens will work and capture rewarding portraits. There are times when fixed fast prime lenses will come in handy, especially indoors where there's insufficient light. Moving a subject towards any door entrance, or positioning the subject near a window within a dwelling to get the required ambient light is the most logical way to capture low-light exposures. Depending on the time of day, strong harsh sunlight will create dark shadows on subjects unless a flash is used, but moving the subject to a different position, or placing a subject in to the shade under a tree from direct sunlight usually works. 

Strolling around with a group of foreigners in tribal territory grabbing snaps of locals is witnessed all the time, but it's more rewarding and successful to isolate yourself from a crowd of other foreigners. Walking alone with a lens will always be better than having half a dozen lenses pointing at the same subject. This will also allow quieter interaction times with locals without them panicking and disappearing faster than lightning. The majority of images through this website were captured without the presence of other foreigners around which shows in itself being isolated from crowds does work.

A reasonable length zoom lens will always come in handy capturing snaps like the above image. The subject was at enough distance without her feeling uncomfortable or even knowing I took a few images of her. The lens used was an AFS Nikon 200-400mm f/4 ED-IF VRII @ 400mm on DX mode (1.5/600mm)

A large part of the beauty of Africa are the people themselves. As a street photographer, one never knows what subject will suddenly appear around the corner or down a lane way. An example is the image below of a one hundred year old woman who was out alone taking a stroll along a deserted road who could barely see, and had limited hearing. She stopped and gave the opportunity to capture this image before continuing her stroll.

Below - random street portraits like this can be captured almost anywhere across the continent using a small amount of interaction time beforehand. 

Tribal Presence

Today, there's an increasing amount of tribal youth who are veering away from their cultural roots because of the modern social changes occurring within their own societies. Many distinct ethnic heritages appear to be on a cultural collision course that's changing the significance and definition of tribal identity. This is visually seen with the younger indigenous generation who are abandoning their tribal dress wear for modern styled clothing, food, and music. There's also the new addiction to social media platforms among tribal teenagers in isolated regions which has skyrocketed over the last few years due to the construction of cell towers and the availability of cheap mobile phones and affordable internet.

Africa will keep most snap happy street photographers active capturing random images of indigenous locals sprawled throughout isolated regions through the continent. Ethiopia, although heavily trodden down with tribal tourism is probably still one of the easiest countries to travel through with the advantages of visiting an endless amount of tribal communities spread far and wide through the country. Independent solo travel with no time schedule or limitation is recommended for those who are contemplating an overland travel and transit journey through Africa. The advantage of solo travel are the rewards and enjoyment of interacting with the locals themselves without rushing off because of limited time.

Over-landing through Africa's tribal communities will really depend on how much time one has including which routes and direction are chosen. Tribal groups are spread far and wide, and are usually within isolated regions of countries. Namibia's far northern district, Angola, Zambia and the DRC all contain their own indigenous tribes which can take many months of overland transit to visit them all. Kenya and Ethiopia are well known for their multi mix of indigenous tribes with the ease of hiring your own vehicle, and a driver if necessary to get to most of theses isolated locations. Escaping from the usual tribal tourist traps is a feat in itself but it can be done if time isn't an issue. 

Photography and capturing portraits in tribal territory is rewarding, and relatively easy with lots of humour, although anyone with a camera are regarded as cash cows in certain tribal territories. Some close-up portraiture images that are taken may result to a small pay out - and automatically demanded. Ethiopia's southern region within the Omo Valley is well known for this, and is classified among many who pass through as a human zoo. The increase of tourism through the decades is the major root cause of this. I find this fair to pay the small amount that's agreed upon before taking any close-ups. In saying this, there are many occasions that no payment is required or demanded for close-up tribal snaps.This usually occurs in the most remote villages well away from any main touristic routes. 

If it's tribal culture you're looking for, Africa is full of it in any direction chosen. The majority of large tribal groups are usually found in the backwaters, or in isolated regions well away from large cities, and urban sprawl in most countries across Africa. Being predominately farmers, and stock herders, many tribes own swabs of land for grazing, and cultivation. Owning a lot of stock within the tribal world has always been regarded as a status symbol for power and wealth. As of late, due to the changing climatic weather patterns water has become scarce, and has caused some tribal farmers to sell-off stock, or graze their herds on to neighbouring tribal lands that have pasture, and water supplies. When tribes do clash against one another - no mercy is shown. The Kenyan/Ethiopian/Somali border regions are known for sporadic violent clashes which have closed border crossing routes.

Reaching tribal territories using local transport is recommended for anyone who's looking for adventure during transit. Hitching and jumping on board any available transport heading towards an intended isolated location can end up being be on the back of a truck loaded with locals, or squashed up in a packed out mini van. It's one part of any journey that's never forgotten and shows the true reality of how locals get around. Having photo-gear close-by ready to use capturing subjects of interest along the way is imperative. Carrying a bag of sweets and sharing them out amongst locals goes a long way, and helps towards positive interaction with tribal people of all age groups. This also avoids cash handouts for close-up portraits within some tribal regions. This will also depend on each subject, but paying a small fee for individual portraits is common wherever western tourism congregates in droves. Getting well away from villages that have a heavy tourism presence, and choosing to stay with locals in basic accommodation off the beaten track is the best option.  

​Nubian Pyramid - Dusk Silhouette 

A dusk silhouette of the Nubian pyramids in central Sudan. Transiting through the Sudan is relatively not so complexed as what it's made out to be. Sudanese visa requirements for foreigners are with the usual requests like other neighbouring countries. A few additional formalities are required traveling inside Sudan. As previously mentioned, an Israeli stamp in passports will automatically decline a visa issue. Embassy and Consular staff will check every page in passports before issuing a visa (just like Iraq, Syria, Yemen, Saudi, Iran), this also includes any entry stamps to Jordan and Egypt from Israel. The Sudanese Embassy in Kamapla, Uganda is probably the best option for applying for a one month tourist visa. Sudanese visas in Kampala are normally issued within 24 hours. Once entering Sudan, all foreign nationals are required to register with police within 3 days. A police permit form clearance is also required for each hotel where one stays. A permit allowing to freely photograph is also necessary and can be obtained in Khartoum. 

A late afternoon snap of the Nubian pyramids at Meroe. The limited amount of foreign visitors to Sudan gives total freedom and isolation in all regions permitted to foreigners to visit. Exit permits are required and necessary to travel and transit overland through to South Sudan, Chad, or to the Central African Republic. The Darfur region is still sensitive red zone, and difficult to visit. Ethiopia and Eritrea land border crossings are straight forward without any issues entering or exiting both countries if valid visas have been issued. Random street photography in Sudan is permitted, but there have been cases with foreign westerners who have had their cameras smashed by police for taking snaps of poor people living on the street in Khartoum. Another case involved two Swiss females who were taking street-snaps of a pile of watermelons in Khartoum, both were beaten, arrested and humiliated. Sudan is not like Ethiopia or India where one can roam freely around and take images of almost anything and anyone without being harassed. The above image shows zero foreigners in sight, including no locals - just my shadow before dusk.  Sudan overland transit map / Ezilon political map 

Okavango Delta - Botswana  

If you enjoy walking amongst wildlife instead of being stuck in a 4x4 all day then the Okavango Delta is the place to be. Arranging a 3 to 10 day excursion inside this amazing delta is easily done when arriving in Maun. Motorboats and small dugouts are used to reach the various campsites inside the Okavango which are the only means of transport that can pass through the narrow canals. The large variety of bird and wildlife inside the delta is well worth the flat charge rate per day which includes food, and guided walks. Elephants, giraffe, zebra, hippos, baboons, wildebeest, and springbok can be seen at very close range. Botswana Ezilon map

Birdlife, hippos, elephants, primates, zebra and giraffe are within close proximity to most campsites inside the Okavango Delta reserve. Late afternoon is the best time to capture wildlife images.

Tribal Dress Mode - In All Directions   

Tribal presence of locals displaying authentic dress wear within rural regions, including some urban townships is easily witnessed through the African continent. Capturing random street images of locals in traditional dress is what most foreigners wish to do. Tribal festivities are many, which allows visitors on many occasions a free pass to watch, celebrate, or even participate in tribal dance and song in many regions within the continent. Above image - a Bena herdsman 

The above image, a woman and child in authentic Himba dress wear on foot heading into town to pick up supplies in Opuwo township, image below, a young female from the Mursi tribe ordained with large bone tusks, and nickel plated headwear from the south west region of Ethiopia. ​

Below image, bright colourful dress wear worn by the many distinct tribal communities in and around the Harar district in eastern Ethiopia.

Below, a random roadside snap of a woman ordained in necklaces which have certain colours and designs that distinguish her heritage and ethnic roots to the Bena Tribe. She was returning to her dwelling 10 km's away carrying a strapped back-pack loaded with well water.

 Hyenas - Night Feeding 

Night feeding wild Hyenas  - An adrenaline fix that matches bungee jumping or abseiling down a cliff. The city of Harar is known for its history of wild hyenas roaming through the streets at night. This local who resides on the outskirts of Harar has been feeding hyenas for years at his local dwelling during the evenings. After dark, one can roam around the streets and witness hyena scavenging for food scraps. These local hyena are well accustomed to wander freely through urban areas in Harar city without being subjected to harassment. Ethiopian overland transit map/ Ezilon political map

Timeout - Lake Victoria​ 

An early morning cruise in a dugout, or small row boat is one way to escape from street noise and chaos for the day. Catching your own dinner for the evening is easy on Lake Victoria with its endless supply of catfish, which are also readily available in most of the food markets close to the lake side in Tanzania, Kenya, and Uganda. Passing the time away grabbing photo-snaps while on the lake of locals dragging their loaded fishing nets onto boats with a variety of different bird species following close behind them is also entertaining. One can also take a quick dip like most locals do to cool off - Image lake Victoria, Tanzania. Ezilon maps - Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya

Namibia - Landscape Diversity 

Namibia, a country worth visiting for anyone who's into arid landscape. The majority of Namibia's coastline is subdued with desert dunes as far as the eye can see. The desert region also contains an abundance of wildlife within areas where there's flora, and shrub. Reaching most areas along Namibia's coastline is difficult without the use of a 4x4. If free camping out in the wilderness, or within isolated regions, a large food supply, water, including spare fuel is essential. One should also be aware when free camping of snakes and scorpions after sunset.

​Below, the remains of an American 1930's Hudson coupe laying dormant at the Solitaire gas station. It's probably one of the most photographed pieces of nostalgia en-route from Windhoek to Sossusvlei. There's a collection of different classic autos at this remote filling station to keep auto-buffs busy while topping up the 4x4 with diesel. 

Dune 7 - Namibia,  known as Big Daddy is situated between Sossusvlei and Deadvlei. The dune is approximately 325 meters in height, and probably one of the most climbed up dunes in Africa because of its easy access. The views of the surrounding desert environs are spectacular, but there are many other hills that offer the same or even better views. The best time to ascend up dune 7 is either early morning when the park gates open,  or in the late afternoon - unless you want to fry to bits during the blistering midday sun. Namibian Ezilon map

Africans - Shy But Inquisitive

Most Africans are just as inquisitive looking at foreigners in the same way as we observe them on the street. As mentioned earlier, interaction is the key to successfully open whatever shyness, or barrier there is between foreigners & locals. Any interaction used usually ends in a positive vibe for both sides. 

The above image shows a shy young tribal shepherd who appeared out from the bush for enough time to grab this snap before he disappeared again.

Ethiopia has to be one of the most rewarding countries on the eastern side of the continent to visit and travel through. Like India, Ethiopia has its own mixed diversity of different ethnic tribes and communities scattered in all directions. Random street photography in Ethiopia will wear most out due to the endless amounts of different subjects worth capturing. A three month visa is sufficient enough for most visiting Ethiopia, the opportunity to extend for another three months is always an option left open for those who need more time. 

An image of a Coptic Christian priest who looked as if he disliked being photographed. The glaring look was actually created from the lag time until the priest realised he was being photographed, and had suddenly looked in my direction from 30 metres distance. We had crossed paths again the following day exchanging quick smiles from opposite sides of the street while continuing in different directions. 

It doesn't matter which side of the African continent one begins an overland transit journey. Whether from Morocco, transiting south through the Ivory coast to South Africa, or from the Cape northbound to Egypt. Both overland transit routes have endless amounts of local interaction. There are regions which are classified as off-limits for western foreigners that contain the presence of Islamic insurgency. These areas are scattered throughout the continent, and should be avoided unless you're of Muslim faith. Being familiar knowing enough Koranic verses will save your life within these regions if a scenario eventuates. Over-landing from Nigeria across to Ethiopia today is certainly classified as a major Red Zone. This includes areas north of DRC all the way to the Mediterranean coast (Algeria, Niger, C.African Rep, Libya, Chad). There are no rules or regulations stopping anyone travelling through these regions. Up to date information from locals should be acknowledged before transiting through these areas, although any movement of extremists are usually unknown until the last moment when they strike.  
​Over the last few years, the culling of western tourists by Islamic extremists has also happened in Kenya, Tanzania, Ethiopia, Morocco, and Egypt. This certainly hasn't stopped the flow of western foreigners visiting these countries. One of the major issues for western foreigners transiting through central and northern Africa is hotel accommodation. The word of a western tourist staying in a local hotel in southern Chad, or on the border regions of Nigeria, Niger or southern Libya will spread like wildfire. This is how simple it is for any foreigner to be taken hostage. One can never know what could eventuate in a moments notice, it's always a risk, just like Russian roulette. Every region has its own mixed diversity with enough friendly locals who are easy to interact with, but there's always a risk factor involved passing through Red Zones.

Himba Tribe - Northern Namibia

Himba woman with customary solid hair plaits with bodies coated with mixtures of otjize, butter paste and red ochre.

Each and every tribe follows their own customs and traditions, like this hair plait design that is distinctive of the Himba tribe. The Himba are the most outgoing friendly tribal community in southern Africa. This small tribal community are totally chilled, and now have a constant flow of foreign visitors passing through their turf. If your overland transit direction is heading northward into Angola or from northern Botswana, visiting the small township of Opuwo is easily reached using local transport. Namibian Ezilon map

Spending time, and interacting with Himba and capturing close-up images of them are hassle free and enjoyable if positive interaction is used. There's certainly a few tribal communities in Africa that have been over thrashed with heavy tourism through the decades scarring tribal villages. The Omo valley region in southern Ethiopia is one example of this. Let's hope this doesn't happen to this small Himba tribe and remains a quiet destination without heavy tourism. 

The above image, a young Himba woman with prepared smoked aromatic herbs mixed with resins similar like incense used as an antimicrobial body cleansing agent. The below snap was taken in central Opuwo township which is a great place to explore the surroundings for a week or two. 

Below, Himba are easily spotted in their tribal dresswear strolling in motion together carrying supplies through the streets of Opuwo township located in northern Namibia. Invitation to visit and stay with Himba for a few days or more can be easily organised within Opuwo - highly recommended.

​Heading To Market  - Every Town Has One

A large part of the African ambience is taking random street captures of locals going about their daily routines. Sheep and cattle markets are always overflowing with locals trading or selling their stock. Many rural villages, or townships have a vibrant animal market that are usually located just on the edge of any town. Animal markets are a great place to capture close-up interaction snaps of locals and their stock. 

Zambezi Catchment - Victoria Falls

Vic falls is a great place to hang out for a few days to relax, and enjoy the ambience of the Zambezi environs, and to catch up on chit chat with other foreigners. It's one of the main crossroad junctions which head in all directions across the southern part of Africa. If anyone's transit route is heading towards the Congo, the DRC Embassy in Lusaka will issue visas without too much fuss. If transiting to South Africa, a valid yellow fever certificate may be requested.
​Zambian Ezilon map /Zimbabwe Ezilon map

If you pass through Khartoum one location not to miss is the joining of the Niles. The merging of the White and Blue Nile rivers is best seen on Tuti Island. One can also grab a quick snap from the old english bridge, but harassment may occur from bridge security officers which depending on the day may or may not allow photography and seize your SD card. The image above shows the Blue Nile on the left verging with the White Nile flowing from the bridge. The old colonial bridge was actually dismantled in India and brought to Sudan by the British.

Tattoo - A Distinctive Tradition

Ethiopian coptic woman who have customary tattoos are generally spotted within rural communities throughout the country. Looking for them is simplified by visiting small out of town villages away from any large hub. They can also be seen during busy market days, which are normally held weekly by different locals gathering within a 100km radius. There are close similarities in tattoo designs with other ethnic groups in India, and Myanmar.

An 80+ year old Coptic woman proudly displays her full throat and lower jaw line tattoo. She was taking a few hours of morning sunlight outside her dwelling before retiring for the rest of the day. 

Indigenous Bangles and Anklets 

Grabbing close-up snaps of tribal jewellery, bracelets, necklaces, and leather garments is easily done within busy market areas when locals congregate together selling and trading their goods. Market days are always cluttered with women who are adorned with handcrafted neck, arm and leg bracelets. Women from the Hamar tribe in southern Ethiopia wear enough neck and leg bracelets to sink a ship, but they're probably the most fittest, and strongest of  all the tribes put together throughout Africa. 

Above, a normal vision seen within tribal communities of  bare foot woman adorned with solid heavy calf bracelets.

Most arm and leg bracelets, bangles and anklets are constructed from raw metals from nickel, silver, brass and copper. 

The Hamer and Himba tribes maybe separated by thousands of kilometres from one another, but both tribes share common nomadic pastoralists lifestyles .They also share the same traditional customs of wearing heavy duty anklets displaying their own unique designs. The anklets also severe the purpose of protecting them from venomous snakebites.

Rooftop Chillout - Lesotho

The dirt track highway leaving South Africa at the base of the Drakensberg mountains up to Lesotho will satisfy most flora and fauna nature lovers. Once one arrives up on to the plateau, the barren landscape welcomes you with a slight wind chill which turns into snow blizzard during the winter months. The 3000 metre high plateau is used for grazing in summer by local Lesotho farmers. It's quite common to spot highland herdsmen ridding bareback, and wrapped in a blanket mustering their herds. South African Ezilon map/Lesotho Ezilon map

Sipping Black Gold  

The grubbier the pot is, the better the tea tastes. Africans are great coffee and tea addicts, they can sip and devour their favourite hot drinks non-stop all day long with plenty of chit-chat.

Hanging Around - It Can Be Expensive!  

This roadside snap transiting through a tribal region is rather deceptive. It shows a group of locals heading in quick haste towards the vehicle. There were only two or three locals who had seen the 4x4 stop, but within seconds half the village were in hot pursuit towards my direction. It's because the vehicle had stopped within their territorial boundary when taking a few images from the roadside. Indigenous tribes within the Omo valley do expect some form of payment for close-up snaps, but generally don't bother for a payout when taking long-shots. This tribal group had different ideas and were on a mission to extract some cash. The option to hang around was appealing, but the outcome may have resulted into a forced frenzy bounty payment, so a quick decision to leave the location was made. The image was captured @ 500+ metres distance on DX mode @600mm (1.5 x 400mm)

Roadside Snaps - Out and About

An image of Young Hamer tribesmen who are typically seen grazing stock within their allotted land plots. Small Himba camps are usually located close to dirt roads and are easily approached without any issues. The above camp was situated just off the main trunk highway heading north towards the Angolan border.

The above road side snap was  taken within tribal territory belonging to the Mursi tribes. The Mursi through the decades have relied heavily on tourism which has caused some of the Mursi groups to be solely dependent on cash donations from tourists. This has caused an aggressive behaviour of some locals who demand over rated fees to enter their camps including any photography. Excessive alcohol consumption plays a part of the aggressive behaviour which I witnessed first hand at one particular camp. Two other foreigners from Israel didn't even bother to get out of their vehicle due a heavy aggressive atmosphere. Heavy tourism through the years is the direct blame that has caused this to develop, which shows no remedy unless the Ethiopian government reforms and educates this particular tribal group, including limited tourism quoters. Below, twin Baobab trees (botte neck) on a main transit route along the Mozambican coastline heading north towards the Tanzanian border.

Below, a woman and child from the Omu region on their way back to their village. It's common in tribal communities for residents to walk kilometres from one village to another. Capturing random snaps of ethnic individuals along roadsides in between villages is best during the early morning or late afternoons. Most villages have multiple water bores where woman congregate to wash clothes, or to pickup fresh water supplies. In Africa, wherever there's a water supply, there's usually lot's of activity and action. Hanging out at a busy water supply is a perfection location to capture some great images of locals. This works everywhere through the continents of Africa, Asia, and the Middle East.

Below, an image snap taken within Hamar tribe territory of a local male who was well over 2 metres tall. 

Markets and Rivers - Full of Activity

Africa certainly has no shortage of babies. Woman with their young wrapped in linen on their backs are normally seen in rural markets. Baby snap captures are generally easy to get throughout the African continent. In general, most mothers enjoy being photographed with their young. Some good locations are at open vegetable, meat, and fish markets, or down at any river or estuary where locals congregate collecting water, and washing clothes.

Isolated tribal communities washing and collecting water supplies at rivers is an everyday occurrence and witnessed in remote regions through the continent. Some tribal groups may resent being photographed. The first few days creating a positive atmosphere interacting with locals without photo-gear is recommended. As soon as a friendly interaction level is formed, most locals won't hesitate being photographed. This has always worked for me.   

Below, wharfs and shipping docks are usually buzzing with activity in the mornings. Locals are easily spotted off-loading a variety of surplus goods from cargo and fishing boats. Finding a good angle to capture images will depend on each location if there's room enough on the walkway, or down beside where the action is. Getting up as close as possible is key to capture some great snaps.

Below, random street snaps like this are easily captured anywhere through Africa without too much difficulty using the most basic photo-gear. If a particular daily market has numerous subjects of interest, then it's advisable to return a few times over a couple of days. Not all markets are the same, with some superior than others. It's all about luck and timing with a mix of interaction effort to capture rewarding images.

Smart Phone Snaps - Last Resort

African street chill-outs all have their own ambience, and style in each country. This sidewalk cafe had its own unique setting displaying a hand painted abstract spread along a wall of local rural culture. With no camera at the time, I grabbed this quick snap with a cell. At the end of the day anything that can take an image is better than nothing. The below image was also a snap capture taken with a smart phone resulting with a horrible HDR flash effect.
The problem with smart phone cameras are their lack of sharpness and clarity in low light situations unless flash is used to avoid grainy image captures. Those travelling overland through Africa only using a smart phone camera for images is a no brainer. Mid range DSLR camera brands with a few different lenses will yield far superior image captures. Fuji, Canon, Nikon or Sony mid range photo-gear will out perform smart phone cameras with quality sharp crisp results in low-light environment.  

In Motion

Sometimes taking a quick snap during transit turns out better than expected like these children caught floating in mid-air with a view of local landscape. Rural village markets are always bustling with locals with a variety of different motion images that are easily captured. The snap below shows a local manually sifting corn maize separating the chaff.

Beach Boat Building - Mozambique style

Credit certainly has to go to these local boat builders situated along the northern coastline in Mozambique. A part of their ingenuity is by using only the basic tools required to construct an ocean going boat. Basic use of a crowbar, hand saw, a chisel and hammer, are the required tools from start to finish completing a floatable boat. Some of the wood being used is either washed-up sea debris found along the shoreline, discarded fence posts, including a collection of wooden planks from nearby building sites. Mozambique Ezilon map

The Shembe - Southern Africa

If there was ever an image that I could say was difficult to capture, the above Shembe portrait would be one of them. There are millions of dedicated Shembe followers through the lower half of the African continent. An invitation to a private Shembe gathering is difficult let alone trying to grab an image of their Leader -If there was ever an image that I could say was difficult to capture, then the above Shembi portrait would be one of them. There are millions of dedicated Shembe followers through the lower half of the African continent. An invitation to a private Shembe gathering is difficult let alone trying to grab an image of their Leader - Bishop Mduduzi Shembe. The easiest way around this is to find a Shembe follower who may have the right connections to invite non-Shembe visitors to one of their isolated dance musical festivals.

Although the Shembe are well known more as a religious group in the southern half  of Africa, they also do have tribal roots. Each year, the Shembe celebrate their traditional rituals and customs in certain regions wearing leopard skin, and meerkat tails. They play their own musical rhythms with chants, dance and songs. No footwear is allowed at any Shembe festival - it's bare feet all day.

Tribal Africa - Public Semi-Nudity   

Many tribal groups throughout Africa are accustomed of displaying various forms of public nudity within their communities without issues. This is witnessed from South Africa as far up as Ethiopia and across to the Ivory Coast. The image above - two locals from the Himba tribe was taken in public on the streets of Opuwo township in Namibia. Westerners over-landing through Africa for their very first time maybe offended by tribal nudity. This can't be avoided wherever tribal communities congregate - like down at most rivers where tribal groups normally bath and wash semi-naked, or within their villages. This is  a normal occurrence seen in Africa without exaggerated fuss and bother - a prohibited taboo in the West, unless at a registered nudist camp, or inside a grotty strip club. Photographing anyone semi-naked will depend on who it is, and if they allow it. The increase of foreign tourism to certain tribal regions has begun to create a negative impact. Tribal woman can quickly become aggressive towards foreigners who grab snaps of them without permission or having zero interaction.
This is what happens when heavy commercial tourism exploits tribal groups. Ethiopia, Kenya, and Tanzania have had this issue for decades. Traveling alone is easier to connect and interact with locals. Traveling solo automatically opens up higher interaction levels. It allows the chances of capturing close-up portraits without any hassles or harassment.