Africa - Solo Overland Travel & Transit
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Cape Town, Cairo, Algiers and Tangier are the three major overland gateways into Africa. All 3 entry points have various choices to criss-cross and transit towards any final destination chosen. Escaping into the heartland of the African wilderness, well off main bitumen highways is simple enough.
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Visas, additional red tape, and permits are usually required to cross and transit through sensitive zones. Sudan via Chad through to Nigeria is one example.
Solo overland travel through Africa using local transport is always a blast, I've done this several times with each journey be better than the last. Anything and everything is possible including unexpected breakdowns and deviations.
Having time on your hands, and I mean plenty of of time without narrow schedules, is the most valuable asset to have transiting through Africa. Forget about preplanning or organising scheduled itineraries through central and north Africa. In the West, if a bus, train or boat is delayed for more than 30 minutes, total chaos breaks out, but within the heartland of Africa, if transport shows up five days later, most locals are happy it arrived without even complaining.
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Sick and tired of following the footsteps of others? Africa has endless amounts of hidden overland road routes that many westerners wouldn't dream to go. The real heartland of Africa isn't tamed, it's still wild as ever, and will probably remain that way for decades to come. South America is a breeze compared to Africa, the continent is a bone shaker, a multi mixed diversity of tribe, religion, and conflict. Those who dare to go it it alone will learn, reeducate themselves, and digest more than what they can ever imagine.
Tribes are numerous through the continent, with some friendly, and others aggressive. Blame the sick western tourism exploration for that! At the end of day, it's all about money - nothing else. Photographing in tribal lands is not difficult, but at least, for those who visit them, try some down to earth interaction with locals before rushing off grabbing as many snaps as possible, and then rushing off in a 4WD full power in a cloud of dust. I've witnessed this countless times - don't be one of them!
Why follow the crowd? Especially those who try to use their smart phones to capture wildlife! Travelling with DSLR photo-gear works every time, for all those wildlife shots that most dream about to capture. Planning any long-term journey through this continent requires photo-gear. I use Nikon myself, but most major brands offer the same quality optics to to the job.
Below, how many times have you regretted not capturing simple images during transit journeys? Instead of passing by ignoring scenes like this, stop the vehicle and capture it using DSLR gear. One must consider when will be the next overland transit journey through North African deserts, and if actually there will be another next time through the same region. The best travel advice is to capture as many different interesting images as possible en-route through the middle of nowhere. Stopping for a few minutes if self-driving isn't an issue. When on-board local bush buses, the first thing is to get friendly interacting with the diver offering him sweet snacks and fresh fruit. This gives the opportunity along certain routes that some drivers, not all of them, will actually stop for a quick minute allowing you to capture still images blur free with the best possible composition.
Overland Africa - Coast To Coast
In volatile red zones, international border posts shut and close without notice, they may permanently be closed for months or even years. Due to the ongoing Islamic cloud spreading through northern Africa, many overland routes and border crossings shown above may, or may not be open allowing transit for foreign nationals. Depending on each particular border post, it's up to the discretion of immigration officials granting entry. In the middle of nowhere, many border posts do use their own rule book. Cash bribe payments may be on offer, but this is entirely up to those who want to fork out bundles of cash to continue their journey.
Large amounts of territory surrounding the Sahel region is as volatile, or even worse than the inner Sahel districts. As usual, all onward visas should be in order. Transit routes shown above are at your own peril!
Are you're sick and tired of worn out tourist ghettos? Too much of the same old same old? Be like myself and go it alone without looking back. Using local transport is always a blast through any continent with Africa being right up there with every type of public transport imaginable. In most cases, no bookings are required, just jump on board on anything available heading in the right direction. Don't scream when bush-buses break down, it happens all the time. Most quick fix highway repairs are the same repairs until whatever part has been replaced - which never happens.
There's plenty of internal inland road and bush track routes connecting east Africa across to west Africa. The majority of continent crossings from DRC upwards have banditry and Islamic militia groups maintaining their presence, who randomly attack and striking at will. Overland transit routes from Djibouti to Nigeria isn't a journey for the meek. The lower Sahel region is the shortest route from coast to coast. Various routes are well known as a main supply-line for smuggling drugs weapons and human smuggling. The region from Darfur-Sudan and onwards thru to N'Djamena into Borno State-Nigeria contains uncontrolled areas of Islamic presence. Islamic insurgency through the region continues to expand in all directions, now reaching Mozambique. This is a Red Zone overland transit crossing that does contain high levels of risk for western foreigners, who can be taken hostage from one day to the next.
Border areas through this region becomes volatile and dangerous after dark. Visas for Chad, C.A.R, Niger, Cameroon and Nigeria should already be in order. Nigerian visas are usually issued with a 3 month window to enter from the date of issue. Depending where Nigerian visas were issued, one can be lucky enough to receive 3 months entry. The northern border crossings into Nigeria, are the Cameroon Gambaru, and the Katsina crossing from Niger. Both regions have on-going Boko Haram-IS insurgency. Cameroon southern border crossings are Mafe and Calabar. Hostage taking, car jacking, and insurgency attacks in northern Cameroon has increased considerably - Just ask the locals! Overland coast to coast routes can be done in either direction, and entirely at your own risk. If you're not afraid of doing some hard yards, the odd breakdown, random control checks, baggage searches, night fear, putting up with smelly egg farts, endless bull-dust on board local transport - the central and lower Sahel coast to coast journey route is for you.
The above map shows the latest spread of the ever increasing Islamic push through the continent. Isis may have lost ground in the Middle east, but it has now moved full speed ahead through Africa amalgamating with local Islamic groups. Since 2017, the ADF, a Ugandan led militant group in D.R.C. has become a destination for Islamic State recruits from Kenya. ADF members apparently reached out to the Islamic State in Libya uniting the two groups together - today, known as the Islamic State of Central Africa. In C.A.R., a group known as Seleka is one of the major militia groups in the Central African Republic. Libya, a main militia gateway from the Middle East, has several Islamic groups in conflict, the Libya Dawn, The Fighting Islamic group, Partisans of Sharia, and Operation Dignity are a few to mention. Al Shabaab have control along the African eastern coastline from Somalia southwards. Mozambique of late, have had numerous attacks by both Isis and Al Shabaab insurgents. In west Africa, Al Qaeda and Boko Harem stretch from Algeria across to Libya down to Cameroon. These two groups have various militia affiliates and proxies causing havoc through Mali, Burkina Faso, Niger, Chad, Nigeria, and Cameroon. There's an estimated one million displaced people in the Sahel region alone. Since 2018, thousands of Christians have been pillaged, raped and slaughtered through west and central Africa.
Westerners, who are not Muslims, or who can neither cite Koranic verses travelling through regions within the shadows of Islamic groups may get a free pass, but then maybe not. Every day is different to the next in transit through Red Zone regions. Any transportation moving along highways maybe held-up, stopped and searched. If you're blond, can't speak the local dialect, and not a Muslim, you're going to have to ask yourself if it's worth the risk. Hostage taking, raping and being treated inhumanly happens week to week month to month. One only needs to ask the locals throughout the many different Red Zone regions riddled with Islamist insurgency for confirmation.
Snitching is normal, it only requires a quick cell call by snitchers to be targeted. A snitcher can be working in a hotel, employed in cheap overnight transit accommodation, a bus or van driver, or any local on the street. What ever route one decides to transit along from either coast, the Islamists already know you're coming. It solely depends on Islamist groups, militias, and highway bandits, if they're busy doing something else more important to allow a free pass transiting through their turf without hinderance. This is how it works, take my advice from experience, not from fluffy travel blog sites!
Solo transiting through Africa using local transport does the job! Crossing from coast to coast via DRC or through the Sahel region completing a round trip is by using deluxe buses, rattling bush-buses, vans, boats, and 4x4 - Enjoy the journey!
Below, now and then you meet up with other foreigners on board bush buses transiting through the middle of nowhere. These two dudes, an Israeli and American have also done some serious overland travel milage crossing various continents through the decades. We had one thing in common, we were solo overland travellers, and departed in different directions through the heartland of Africa.
Northern Gateway
Cairo, a bustling city overflowing with overpacked pavements and clogged avenues with jammed up traffic. Cairo may seem out of order on arrival, but this is what makes the city so unique. It's actually a vibrant mix with a clash of sprawling french flavoured palaces and museums. Cairo is known to contain the most mosques for a city globally. Cairo will keep most busy for couple of weeks doing random street photography, visiting Giza, including the museums. Strolling around inside Cairo's maze of mixed bazars and passing through the Coptic quarter is also recommended. The choices of entering into Egypt can be done by land, sea or air. Because of the on-going conflicts in Syria and Libya, the only overland road route from the north is from Jordan or Israel via the Sinai. An Israeli stamp, or any issued entry stamp from the Jordanian or Egyptian immigration upon exiting Israel will give problems when applying for a Sudanese visa. It's automatic procedure for Sudanese Embassy and Consular staff to check every page in passports for an Israeli stamp, including neighbouring Arab entry stamps. This also applies with other African Arab nations except Morocco and Tunisia. The Greek shipping line from Cyprus to Alexandria has ceased operations until further notice. Hitching a passage on board cargo ships is still possible. If coming through from Turkey, there are boat connections to Rhodes from Maramis and Mersin to Beirut. The only available overland route from Egypt to Sudan is from Aswan to Wadi Halfa by boat which sails once a week, or by bus and boat via Abu Simbel. There has been chit chat from both countries to open a public land border crossing along the coast, but this has been in the works for decades with no results as yet. The Sudanese consulate in Aswan is familiar with foreigners applying for visas. The Ethiopian Embassy in Khartoum will usually issue tourist visas within 24 hours. Due to the complications of militia transitions throughout the northern and central regions of Africa, it's advisable to get the latest updates first hand on the ground. Crossing from Sudan to Nigeria can be done, but doing this particular journey is entirely at your own risk.
Transit Routes Africa - Tangier : Cape Town : Cairo
Carving out an overland journey route in either direction up or down the African continent is simple. The mapping routes above were completed over a 12 month period. Time and patience is a must to complete a solo overland trip like this. As always, some land borders do close while others are re-opened, so it's always imperative to check the latest updates to ensure international borders are open on the transit routes planned.
What's what in the Transit Baggage page covers the basic necessities of different items having a proven track record with my own approval rating. On any long-term overland travel, there's always the dilemma of deciding what photo gear to use and carry in transit. The Photo-Gear page covers a variety of different Nikon DSLR equipment with a range of different accessories that have been used in past overland transit journeys with most photo-gear still being used today.
Africa overland transit - Jump on board any available transport and enjoy the ride. Reaching Africa is one thing, overland travel through difficult parts of the continent is something else. Jumping on the top of cattle trucks or in packed-out bush-vans is one way to do it. Sometimes, these are the only choices to get lifts within isolated regions that have minimal public transport. Grabbing lifts on trucks is normal procedure amongst locals. If you can handle the free amounts of bull dust in your face, thumps and bumps with endless vibration rattling through the body, including breakdowns, and grinding along bush-track highways for a few days, then what are you waiting for?
Southern Gateway - Africa
Cape Town, the southern hub of Africa, a city that rocks 24/7. Cape Town is a perfect entry gateway into (or exit out of) Africa, with an amazing, vibrant feel that keeps one staying longer than expected. The panoramic views of Table Mountain and Lion's Head, are welcome vistas - from dawn to dusk. Planning a journey in this region is recommended during the summer months. The Antarctic southerly wind freezes this city through most of the winter season. Transiting overland from Morocco or Cairo to South Africa also offers a gateway out of Africa with direct flights to South America landing in Sao Paulo or Buenos Aires.
South African international border posts have you covered in all directions. Passports should have at least have 12 months validity with half a dozen blank pages. WHO health cards must also have valid yellow fever vaccinations to enter South Africa. Visa extensions are possible, depending on nationality, and where the visa extension is being processed. Some South African immigration offices are easier to deal with. On previous visits, I've managed to get extensions in Durban and Cape-town, a valid exit bus ticket to neighbouring countries is required. Warning, it's your own risk walking along the back route of table mountain, as this Ukrainian tourist found out who was robbed and stabbed to death.
Bush Bus Transit - Africa
As the title heading stipulates, solo overland transit using local transportation to get through Africa is more simple than what many may assume. Africans do it everyday without questioning how comfortable the seats are, or if the driver has a heavy foot down on the pedal flogging the bus to death at high speed all day. This is certainly a part of the overland transit journey experience whether it's liked or not. Using local transport has many hidden positives for the visitor which most organised tourist overland operators are lacking. Interaction is the key ingredient through any of the continents which can open many doors. This is easily achieved just by using local transport up or down the continent interacting with local passengers. Random invitations from locals to eat, stay, or become a guest for a few days does happen, and more often than I can say in my own country. The majority of public bus transportation from South Africa through to Egypt operates the same way - packed and primed -up to the hilt. Using bush-buses off-main highways has relatively the same experience with an added bonus of vibration, dust, and breakdowns. In general, Africans transiting on buses are extremely friendly towards foreigners with many going out of their way to assist or help with local information. Don't think twice to solo travel throughout Africa using local transportation. Any journey is full of surprises making what overland travel and transit is all about - Enjoyment!
Diversity In All Directions
No matter where one begins, or ends through the heartland of the continent, any journey through Africa will open up endless hypnotising visions. Barren savannah, diverse landscape, tribal presence with an abundance of wildlife are the natural jewels from coast to coast.
Those travelling solo overland through the continent will without too much effort capture random images like this.
Central Africa
The central lake district shared by the Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania, Burundi, Rwanda and Zambia is the transit overland gateway through to west Africa. A DRC visa can be easily obtained in Lusaka or Nairobi. (there are no consulates). It takes approximately five days waiting time to receive DRC visas. I had coughed out $150 bucks for a 3 month DRC visa issued in Kenya. Entering DRC through the Rwanda land border crossing may result with added corruption payouts of hundreds of dollars to get through. This depends on nationality, and the immigration officials at the appointed time of entering this particular land border. Some foreigners pass through this border without issues, while others on the same day end-up paying bribes. My advise, is to travel further south to Burundi, and cross over at the Bujumbura/ DRC land border, where corruption handouts are less frequent, and then transiting north to Goma. There is also a DRC land/lake border further south at Kalemie from Kigoma-Tanzania, although infrequent unscheduled boat transport from Tanzania to Kalemie will test your patience. The Kalemie crossing is normally for those transiting south towards Lubumbashi thru to Zambia. Having a Rwandan double entry visa makes it easier for those who want to return from the Goma region. Overland travel and transit through the DRC is not recommended in the wet season unless one has plenty of time to find available transport that's operational. Walking around solo after dark with baggage, photo-gear or other valuable items in DRC is certainly not advisable, unless you want to lose it. This also applies for most countries through the continent, especially South Africa, Tanzania, Kenya, Nigeria, CAR, Niger, Cameroon, Senegal and Mali.
Overland travel through DRC requires time and patience. As mentioned, avoiding the Congo wet season from Oct thru December is recommended, unless travel-time isn't an issue. A healthy cash supply is required - conceal your cash stash well! I purchased a bundle of US Dollars in Kampala. Money exchangers are found almost everywhere through Africa. Varying commission exchange rates are normal - shop around! Floating downstream on the Congo river using available boats is better than travelling upstream i.e. Kisangani - Lisala - Mbandaka - Kinshasa, or south bound from Kabalo. The north eastern region of DRC is volatile! Watch your stuff, and yourself! Valid visas are necessary to cross over to C.A.R. & South Sudan.
Everyday's Different
Above left, the weird and wonderful of processed created tribal tourism. A typical scenario seen through the majority of heavily promoted tribal lands across the continent. Above right, a roadside snap transiting through tribal lands in south west Ethiopia.
Desert sands surrounding ancient Nubian pyramids within peaceful surroundings in the middle of nowhere.
Random street snaps, savannah sky, wilderness wildlife, tribal lands, desert landscape - Africa has it all.
Above, African silhouettes are plentiful and easily captured across the continent. Below, one of my favourite locations taking images in any country are on the outskirts of towns and villages.
DSLR Territory - Africa
No matter what you've read or have heard about with smart phone cameras - they're useless junk when it comes to capturing distant wildlife. Any quality DSLR brand camera body with a reasonable long reach lens is more than adequate enough when image files are enlarged to use as canvas wall art. Many have regretted traveling only with smart phone cameras instead of DSLR's in wildlife sanctuaries and parks. What most assume, is wildlife in the wild are like zoo animals, and probably think they can be hand fed and also grab close up selfies with them. Guys, Keep your smart phones in baggage until the urge of selfie addiction snapping kicks in for those social media dopamine likes.
These two images are quick examples captured using a DSLR zoom lens. They look close, but are cropped images captured from long distance. Smart phone cameras no-matter the brand, fail reaching out capturing long distant shots. Quality close-up results are only seen after images are cropped and enlarged. Travelling with DSLR photo-gear with a few different lenses guarantees distant shots to be in focus and usable outside the social media trap.
Those out there who disagree, are probably used to visiting zoos, and are vivid selfie lovers, and have never experienced any real time overland travel and transit journeys crossing countries and continents using real camera gear.
Below, images samples of user error. Now and then capturing sub par out of focus, or cut off subjects happens. This is commonly regarded as user error, not the equipment. Wildlife captures require at least 400-600mm focal range to sustain sharp tack images taken from long distance. DSLR tele lenses are still the top optics to capture wildlife no matter the brand name.
One can only blame themselves when missing on the go subjects. Fiddling with cumbersome internal camera settings at the time of grabbing snaps results in misfires and blurry shots. Full memory cards and flat batteries are other issues causing missed captures. Getting to know quick rapid adjustment settings of photo-gear will guarantee satisfaction most of the time, especially all the different on the go captures during transit throughout Africa.
Street Photography - Africa
Nothing beats capturing random close-up street portraits through Africa. Travelling through the continent with at least one decent camera body with a few lenses will be put to good use almost everyday. Brand names aren't important, only the reliability of any camera body that can handle knocks and drops is important. Smart phones don't cut it no matter the brand, a low-light image snap taken from a cell phone increased 3x of its original size will expose mass amounts of grain. Capturing close-up random street portraits with total strangers requires positive interaction levels for satisfied results. Without a camera, and having zero interaction skills, any overland journey through the continent will be sub-par outside tourist zone perimeters. As usual, researching through endless amounts of camera and lens reviews before purchasing photo-gear is recommended. Never buy a camera just because it's the latest released model. Reliability is first priority for any photo-gear to survive abuse through Africa on a 12-18 month overland journey.
On the go images captured using good old reliable DSLR photo-gear over-landing through Africa.
Photographing locals through Africa coast to coast keeps you busy, a camera with a little interaction is all that's required.
Wildlife - Africa
Do you want wildlife images like this? You'll need more than a junky smart phone camera - DSLR photo-gear works!
The majority of wildlife parklands, sanctuaries, and reserves off the beaten track through Africa are well worth the transit time getting to them. Ethiopia alone has 3 different sanctuaries with elephant, baboon, and wolf packs. South Sudan has one of the largest migration runs in the continent every year when wildlife head south west to northern Uganda and DRC. Visiting gorillas can be done in DRC, with an added bonus of climbing live volcanoes near by. These are the same gorillas that are seen in Rwanda, but at 10x the cost. Mole park in Ghana, and Pandjari national park in Benin are 2 out of many sanctuaries that are worth visiting in west Africa.
Heading south, Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa all have more than their fare share of wildlife sanctuaries, with Serengeti, Okavango, Kruger, and Addo being the most well known parks full of mixed wildlife. Etosha national park in northern Namibia is also recommended en-route to Himba territory.
Zebra and giraffe are the most common animals easily spotted in wildlife parks. The breeding and migration seasons are the most rewarding times for snaps.
Wildlife parks and sanctuaries are scattered throughout the continent with some parks better than others. Hiring a vehicle or a driver is required in most regions. There's more information covering this in the wildlife section. Some camera photo gear is required to capture wildlife images. Forget about using cell phone cameras in the wild, go to zoos instead. My photo-gear page.
Bring some DSLR Photo-Gear, or stay at home. Cell phone cameras and point & shoots are useless in most wildlife parks and sanctuaries. Most camera brands today are one and the same. Quality lenses aren't cheap, but they will guarantee satisfaction when captured images of wildlife are enlarged into canvas prints hung on the wall.
Freely roaming giraffe in northern Botswana, below, a close-up capture of an alpha male baboon within low line bush and shrub. This tough guy, by his teeth, has had numerous infighting with other members of his own troop, including other dominant males entering into his territory.
Only in Africa
Public dress mode attire within some rural towns which have tribal presence through sub-continental Africa allow woman to be bare breasted anywhere they wish without issues. The above image shows an Angolan woman bare-breasted inside a supermarket shopping for essentials.
Cash has been around for centuries, it's still working as good as ever through Africa. Why go to a bank, or use an ATM card when there's loads of cash at your service directly on the street. The street cash vendor at the time of taking this image was counting through a wad of US dollars.
These kids don't have cell phones, xbox, or spoilt with fancy toys, they're used to basic lifestyle living, creating their own survival reality in the heartland of Africa. Probably over 90% of western children wouldn't be able to survive a month living in the middle of nowhere without complaining.
If street photography is something on your agenda, Africa will certainly entertain you with all types of different activity and street humour. Capturing random street snaps coast to coast through the continent have the same appeal, including plenty of positive interaction levels. Being street savvy is key!
Street photography, give it a try and surprise yourself, it's only a matter of heading out on to any busy road intersection, or sprawling auto repair zone, to capture images one off images. If you're energetic, it won't take long to fill up a camera's SD card up super fast. It doesn't matter which direction, or what city or town one chooses. Strolling around during daylight hours with exposed photo-gear is normally ok, with less risk of losing it, but it's certainly not recommended to stroll around anywhere after dark on the edges of big cities alone.
A local cruising across town on a two wheeler delivering a truck tyre - typical seen through most big cities in Africa.
One vision typically seen in rural regions across Africa and the Mid-East are the abundance of camels, mules and goats. They are used for transporting produce, and bred for human consumption. The majority of Africans eat red meat i.e. pigs, deer, donkey, cows, camel, sheep, goat, wildebeest.
Khat (katha edulis) - North Eastern Africa
Khat has a stimulant effect when chewed, similar to coca plant leaves. Chewing Khat will typically last 2-4 hours, with the effects being felt about 45 minutes after chewing starts.The effects are similar to stimulants as caffeine. Users become alert and experience euphoria. Some feel increased self-esteem and imagination. Khat is an illegal substance in the EU, USA, South Africa, and other western countries - classified as a narcotic drug.
Khat can be sourced and purchased in open markets through north eastern Africa. Prices very on the quality and potency.
Tribal Voodoo
Witchcraft voodoo medicine men can be seen through half of the African continent. They all have their own techniques using different potions of mixed substances applied to certain parts of their subjects. The image above shows an Angolan medicine man marking areas on a locals back using hot ash. While applying his magical mix of ingredients, the sounds of low vocal muttering chants are heard through the process.
A common visual seen within tribal territories are locals brandishing hunting rifles and machine guns. Cattle rustling, and issues with water and grazing among neighbouring communities does flare up from time to time. Most locals in rural tribal groups who carry weapons have no hesitation to use them at the drop of a pin. There's also the rare occasion with foreign visitors who have been shot at when taking quick snaps without prior permission, or trying to avoid paying for image close up captures. In many cases, interacting and spending time (like a few hours - not 5 minutes) will give the opportunity to photograph freely without issues. Reaching tribal territories within red zone regions are a different kettle of fish. Islamist insurgency is ongoing. The risk factor is highly increased transiting through or staying within tribal communities that contain Islamic militant groups no matter their affiliation.
Below, landmine warning road signs are typically seen crossing international border regions through the continent. Strolling around past perimeters displaying landmine signage is at your own risk. Locals residing within these areas stick to well worn walking tracks. Treading on exploding mines will shred removing a leg in an instant.
Dabbling With Drugs - Africa
Cannabis and hashish is easily found throughout the African continent with each country implying their own drug laws, with some being more relaxed than others. Tourist havens along the coastal regions are certainly overflowing with enough drugs to sink a ship. Street drug sellers are plentiful, and offer various types of local weed, hashish, meth, LSD, and other drugs at give away prices. Hashish supplies in Sudan and Egypt originate from Morocco. Egyptian hemp is cultivated within the demilitarised zones in the Sinai Peninsula. Zanzibar has been cultivating hemp for centuries. South Sudan of late has clamped down on drug smuggling routes along their western borders (The Sahel route) due to seizures of large quantities of heroin and cocaine passing through the country. South Africa has recently decriminalised cannabis allowing the right to grow and smoke weed on private property, but foreigners caught in possession of any drugs will most certainly be heavily bribed. Possession of cannabis in Nigeria is still illegal, but it's one of the largest cultivators of hemp in Africa. Nigeria has long been a transit point for cocaine and heroin. In recent years the country has become a growing supplier of Chinese imported fentanyl and supplier of methamphetamine. Guinea-Bissau, Senegal and Morocco are also used as transit hubs to smuggle narcotics to Europe. An 800kg consignment of cocaine was recently seized in Guinea-Bissau. Kenya has a growing heroin and meth epidemic with approximately 9 tonnes of heroin being used each year. East Africa is well known for large volumes of heroin, meth, and cocaine passing through major sea ports to Europe and north America. Normally, most foreigners travelling through the continent that divulge in weed and hash within "Safe Zones" have no issues with authorities who normally turn a blind eye with the odd bribe from underpaid street police. Getting searched for drugs en-route transiting overland through the continent is sporadic, but it does happen when you least expect it. One never knows what the end result or outcome is, if caught carrying a personal stash of cannabis or hashish. Like in South America, a lumpy cash bribe may get you a free pass, but foreigners in possession caught carrying meth, fentanyl or cocaine can result into a confined holiday in a flea ridden jail cell.
Humor Snaps
Some of the most humorous image snaps are captured during transit journeys through the continent.
Above snap, probably a secondhand set of van seats that will become a part of a new lounge suit, but the goat on the roof in transit takes the cake. The below image, a typical scenario when accommodation become hot boilers during the summer months across north Africa. Beds are dragged outside helping the itchy heat during the night. Viewing the cosmos watching shooting stars in comfort can't get easier.
Street Chaos Africa - Enjoy it
City street chaos is felt and seen all the way through Africa. At most times it's at fever pitch, which is an enjoyment to watch and observe, or to be in amongst the middle of street chaos riding an MC, or onboard public transport. Finding a busy street corner photographing captures of local urban hustle and bustle is well worth the effort. The usual places to do this are usually near central bus stations, market areas, and the old quarters of any city. Grabbing snaps of locals this way is fun with loads of humour. Lagos, Cairo, and Kampala are 3 of many large cities that are entertaining with their own forms of street humour, and will probably wear out most foreign visitors after a day or two.
Ezilon African countries map references
Solo Travel - Interacting
So many times, I've witnessed foreigners taking random street snaps of locals without bothering to interact with them. Locals take street snaps too, and usually enjoy and appreciate chit-chatting with strangers. If travelling solo, It can lead to invites visiting local's dwellings meeting other family members, and end-up staying for dinner. Try it and see where it takes you.
Safety First - Don't Think Twice
Razor wire is seen everywhere throughout the continent, and it isn't just for show. Foreign visitors are robbed and mugged all the time - every day somewhere within the African shorelines. Most of the time, it's the visitors who are at fault, due to a lack of street instinct and awareness of what's happening around them at certain locations. Safe lodging is with some form of security with either a 24hr reception, or a guard hanging outside the complex. This may stop thieves, and robbers from entering a hotel freely at their own will, but it certainly won't stop anyone from being mugged and robbed after dark when returning to a hotel. I would recommend to always pick an upstairs room, and using your own lock and key when possible. Coiled razor wire hanging along the outside of a hotel window is an added bonus. Razor wired hotels are not just in Africa, it's also commonly seen and used in Brazil, Venezuela, Argentina, the Caribbean, Central America, the Middle East, and some regions in Asia.
Solo Travel Africa - Interaction is Key
Interaction amongst locals anywhere will automatically open up doors that you would never imagine. Without it, any overland transit journey through a continent would be boring, and wasteful. There are those who are either born shy or introverted, or even afraid to break the ice to communicate, or start a dialogue with locals. Africans in general are very hospitable towards strangers, especially African children and teenagers.
There's the usual crowd - like anywhere else, who look at Westerners as cash cows, but this isn't something new anywhere within a 50km radius of any tourist resorts or hotels. Over-landing is a completely different ballgame for those who plan to do the hard yards transiting across a continent. The further away one is from any coastal resorts, the better things become. Intermingling with locals down at the nearest river is a good start. Wherever there's a river, there's action - a lot of action. It's where all the activity is like locals washing clothes, washing themselves, watering stock, including children of all age groups either playing soccer or just hanging out.
If you're the only foreigner in town then it's even better, and well worth an extra day or two absorbing the local hospitality. Some Westerners who fly the mileage to Africa prefer to relax on a beach all day sipping pina coladas, and partying hard out all night long with other foreigners without mixing with locals. If you're in Africa, at least try to disassociate from the usual tourist haunts for a week or two, without internet, a cell phone or wifi, and travel inland and enjoy the company of local Africans, who will give their time, space, and energy to those who interact with them. Image: Nuer tribal children on the banks of the Baro river (Sudan/Ethiopian border region).
Bush Bus Transit - Africa
Local bush bus transit is the way to go getting through Africa. Food and snacks while in transit mode is usually available throughout the continent. Depending the stops en-route, locals sell fried fish, meat, corn, and assorted fruits along highway pick ups and crossroads. Some grilled meat, even though it looks good could be from fresh road kill, but if locals are eating it, then what's the problem? On some isolated routes within the middle of nowhere, food supply is minimal, what ever is available to eat is better than starving to death. Locally dried beef jerky and raw garlic keeps the stomach happy.
Random Street Portraits
If random street portraiture is what you're looking for, the entire African continent will be satisfying. Capturing close-up images of locals, is created by your own interaction with subjects. In saying that, poking a lens in the face of strangers won't get you any respect or kudu points, and will be considered rude. One has to remember 1000's of foreigners through the decades have travelled up and down the continent grabbing close-up snaps of probably the same African locals, so by chance one may encounter resistance from those who may have experienced tourists jamming lenses up in their faces. No matter how long it takes, interaction usually guarantees success. Using zoom lenses instead keeping distance works, but certainly not as satisfying as close-ups. Those planning long-term overland travel through Africa and beyond should think about travelling with some type of photo-gear.
Reliability is the major priority. There are limited trust worthy camera repairers through the continent, so don't purchase a camera just because you've seen it heavily promoted online. Research the model and brand, if it has been tried and tested within humid and dusty conditions, and if the camera body can handle drop abuse punishment. I still use older DSLR bodies and lenses because of their already proven reliability. Many foreigners have been caught out half way through overland journeys with defected cameras due to knocks and drops. Transiting through Africa using bush buses will test your baggage, equipment and camera-gear to the limits - choose wisely.
Both of these images were captured using the same body and lens. Depending on what photo-gear is chosen for a days outing, a good zoom lens like a 70-200 f/2.8 will cover almost anything, but as mentioned, either an 85/105mm prime lens will work and capture rewarding portraits. There are times when fixed fast prime lenses will come in handy, especially indoors where there's insufficient light. Moving a subject towards any door entrance, or positioning the subject near a window within a dwelling to get the required ambient light is the most logical way to capture low-light exposures. Depending on the time of day, strong harsh sunlight will create dark shadows on subjects unless a flash is used. Moving the subject to a different position, or placing a subject in to the shade under a tree from direct sunlight usually works.
Strolling around with a group of foreigners in tribal territory grabbing snaps of locals is witnessed all the time, but it's more rewarding and successful to isolate yourself from a crowd of other foreigners. Walking alone with a lens will always be better than having half a dozen lenses pointing at the same subject. This will also allow quieter interaction times with locals without them panicking and disappearing faster than lightning. The majority of images through this website were captured without the presence of other foreigners around which shows in itself being isolated from crowds does work.
Quick fast street snaps of subjects on the go from market areas is one of many ways to capture locals. The image above was taken from 50 metres or so using DSLR photo-gear.
A reasonable length zoom lens will always come in handy capturing snaps like the above image. The subject was at enough distance without her feeling uncomfortable, or bothering to freak out for some form of payment. In tribal territories across the continent, heavy tourism from rich fly in fly out foreigners, who through the last decade or so, have created a cycle within tribal hubs the common practice of "pay for images" protocol. To avoid this, jump on any available transport out to isolated villages where tourism is less common.
Selfie lovers travelling through Africa who have taken more images of themselves posted to social media or their "blogs" are either completely out of touch with what's around them, or uninterested interacting with locals. If you're transiting through the continent, at least capture random subjects of different ethnic Africans on the go. It maybe a long turnaround period before an opportunity arises again to freely travel within counties that seemed irrelevant at the time.
The large part of the beauty of Africa are the people themselves. As a street photographer, one never knows what subject will suddenly appear around the corner, up the road, or down a lane way. An example below, a one hundred year old plus woman, who was out and about taking a stroll along a deserted road. She could barely see, and had limited hearing, but stopped and gave the opportunity to capture this image before slowly continuing her walk.
Above, two of literally thousands of random streets snap portraits captured through Africa.
Young or old, east or west, north or south, Africa has you covered for any favourite subject out on the streets.
Below, random street portraits like this are captured almost anywhere across the continent using a small amount of interaction time beforehand.
Coptic Christians
Coptic Christians have been photographed by foreign tourists for decades. The best time to capture images of them is early morning on their way or returning from worshipping locations.
Tribal Territory
Like anywhere, everyday is different when it involves random snap captures. One day can be better than the next depending where one is situated. The most important of all, is to have some kind of photo-gear that's ready to use. Most DSLR or Digital camera brands do the job. Don't rely on smart phone cameras, they're useless just like point & shoots for distant subjects - even if they have 30x zoom.
Today, there's an increasing amount of tribal youth who are veering away from their cultural roots because of the modern social changes occurring within their own societies. Many distinct ethnic heritages appear to be on a cultural collision course that's changing the significance and definition of tribal identity. This is visually seen with the younger indigenous generation who are abandoning their tribal dress wear for modern styled clothing, food, and music. There's also the new addiction to social media platforms among tribal teenagers in isolated regions which has skyrocketed over the last few years due to the construction of cell towers and the availability of cheap mobile phones and affordable internet.
Africa will keep most snap happy street photographers active capturing random images of indigenous locals sprawled throughout isolated regions through the continent. Ethiopia, although heavily trodden down with tribal tourism is probably still one of the easiest countries to travel through with the advantages of visiting an endless amount of tribal communities spread far and wide through the country. Independent solo travel with no time schedule or limitation is recommended for those who are contemplating an overland travel and transit journey through Africa. The advantage of solo travel are the rewards and enjoyment of interacting with the locals themselves without rushing off because of limited time.
Over-landing through Africa's tribal communities will really depend on how much time one has including which routes and direction are chosen. Tribal groups are spread far and wide, and are usually within isolated regions of countries. Namibia's far northern district, Angola, Zambia and the DRC all contain their own indigenous tribes which can take many months of overland transit to visit them all. Kenya and Ethiopia are well known for their multi mix of indigenous tribes with the ease of hiring your own vehicle, and a driver if necessary to get to most of theses isolated locations. Escaping from the usual tribal tourist traps is a feat in itself but it can be done if time isn't an issue.
Photography and capturing portraits in tribal territory is rewarding, and relatively easy with lots of humour, although anyone with a camera are regarded as cash cows in certain tribal territories. Some close-up portraiture images that are taken may result to a small pay out - and automatically demanded. Ethiopia's southern region within the Omo Valley is well known for this, and is classified among many who pass through as a human zoo. The increase of tourism through the decades is the major root cause of this. I find this fair to pay the small amount that's agreed upon before taking any close-ups. In saying this, there are many occasions that no payment is required or demanded for close-up tribal snaps.This usually occurs in the most remote villages well away from any main touristic routes.
If it's tribal culture you're looking for, Africa is full of it in any direction chosen. The majority of large tribal groups are usually found in the backwaters, or in isolated regions well away from large cities, and urban sprawl in most countries across Africa. Being predominately farmers, and stock herders, many tribes own swabs of land for grazing, and cultivation. Owning a lot of stock within the tribal world has always been regarded as a status symbol for power and wealth. As of late, due to the changing climatic weather patterns water has become scarce, and has caused some tribal farmers to sell-off stock, or graze their herds on to neighbouring tribal lands that have pasture, and water supplies. When tribes do clash against one another - no mercy is shown. The Kenyan/Ethiopian/Somali border regions are known for sporadic violent clashes which have closed border crossing routes.
Reaching tribal territories using local transport is recommended for anyone who's looking for adventure during transit. Hitching and jumping on board any available transport heading towards an intended isolated location can end up being be on the back of a truck loaded with locals, or squashed up in a packed out mini van. It's one part of any journey that's never forgotten and shows the true reality of how locals get around. Having photo-gear close-by ready to use capturing subjects of interest along the way is imperative. Carrying a bag of sweets and sharing them out amongst locals goes a long way, and helps towards positive interaction with tribal people of all age groups. This also avoids cash handouts for close-up portraits within some tribal regions. This will also depend on each subject, but paying a small fee for individual portraits is common wherever western tourism congregates in droves. Getting well away from villages that have a heavy tourism presence, and choosing to stay with locals in basic accommodation off the beaten track is the best option.
Dusk Silhouette Sudan
A late afternoon snap of the Nubian pyramids at Meroe. The limited amount of foreign visitors to Sudan gives total freedom and isolation in all regions permitted to foreigners to visit. Exit permits are required and necessary to travel and transit overland through to South Sudan, Chad, or to the Central African Republic. The Darfur region is still a sensitive red zone, and difficult to visit. Ethiopia and Eritrea land border crossings are straight forward without any issues entering or exiting both countries if valid visas for both countries have been issued. Random street photography in Sudan is permitted, but there have been cases with westerners who have had their cameras smashed by police for taking snaps of poor street in Khartoum. Another case involved two Swiss females who were taking street-snaps of a pile of watermelons in Khartoum, both were beaten, arrested and humiliated. Sudan is not like Ethiopia or India where one can roam freely around and take images of almost anything and anyone without being harassed. Above image, zero foreigners in sight, including no locals, just my shadow before dusk. Sudan overland transit map / Ezilon political map
Transiting through the Sudan is relatively not so complexed as what it's made out to be. Sudanese visa requirements for foreigners come with the usual requests like other neighbouring countries. A few additional formalities are required traveling inside Sudan. As previously mentioned, an Israeli stamp in passports will automatically decline visa issues. Although recently, Sudan and Israel have agreed to bilateral trade which will eventually ignore Israeli stamps in passports. For the time being Embassy and Consular staff will check passport pages before issuing visas (just like Iraq, Syria, Yemen, Saudi, Iran). It also includes any entry stamps to Jordan and Egypt from Israel. The Sudanese Embassy in Kamapla, Uganda is probably the best option for applying for a one month tourist visa. Sudanese visas in Kampala are normally issued within 24 hours. Once entering Sudan, all foreign nationals are required to register with police within 3 days. A police permit form clearance is also required for each hotel where one stays. A permit allowing to freely photograph is also necessary and can be obtained in Khartoum. Below, dusk silhouette of the Nubian pyramids in central Sudan.
Okavango Delta - Botswana
Birdlife, hippos, elephants, primates, zebra and giraffe are within close proximity to most campsites inside the Okavango Delta reserve. Late afternoon strolls is the best time to capture wildlife images.
If you enjoy walking amongst wildlife instead of being stuck in 4 wheel drives all day, the Okavango Delta is the place to be. Arranging a 3 to 10 day excursion inside this amazing delta is easily done when arriving in Maun. Motorboats and small dugouts are used to reach the various campsites inside the Okavango, which are the only means of transport that can pass through narrow canals. Recently over 700 elephants died within a very short time span in the region.
The large variety of bird and wildlife inside the delta is well worth the flat charge rate per day which includes food, and guided walks. Elephants, giraffe, zebra, hippos, baboons, wildebeest, and springbok can be seen at close range. Botswana Ezilon map
Tribal Dress Mode - All Directions
As anywhere through the continent, rural regions within outdoor markets is the place to capture images like above.
Tribal presence of locals displaying authentic dress wear within rural regions, including some urban townships is easily witnessed through the African continent. Capturing random street images of locals in traditional dress is what most foreigners wish to do. Tribal festivities are many, which allows visitors on many occasions a free pass to watch, celebrate, or even participate in tribal dance and song in many regions within the continent. Above image - Bena herdsman
Above street snap, a woman and child in authentic Himba dress wear on foot heading into town picking up supplies in Opuwo township. Below, a Mursi tribe female ordained with large bone tusks, and nickel plated headwear.
Below, bright colourful dress wear worn by the many distinct tribal communities in and around the Harar district in eastern Ethiopia.
Below, a random roadside snap of a woman ordained in necklaces which have certain colours and designs that distinguish her heritage and ethnic roots to the Bena Tribe. She was returning to her dwelling 10 km's away carrying a strapped back-pack loaded with well water.
Tribal Territory - Random Stops
A roadside snap transiting through a tribal region. The image is rather deceptive, it shows a group of locals heading in quick haste towards the vehicle. There were only two or three locals who had seen our vehicle pass by further up the road and stopped. Within seconds, half the village were coming in hot pursuit towards our direction. Because the vehicle had parked within their territorial boundary taking quick snaps, they did have every right to pursue and approach at will. Various indigenous tribes through the continent do expect some form of payment for close-up snaps. In general, most tribal groups don't bother asking for payouts when taking long-shots. This particular tribal group are known for their aggressive behaviour, they were on a mission to extract some cash. The option to hang around was appealing, but the outcome may have resulted into a forced frenzy bounty payment. If one comprehends how tribal groups think in the middle of nowhere, you'll understand what I mean. A quick decision to leave the location was made with approximately 500 metres between them and the vehicle.
Hyena - Night Feeding
Night feeding wild Hyenas - An adrenaline fix that matches bungee jumping or abseiling down cliffs. The city of Harar is known for its history of wild hyenas roaming through the streets at night. This local, who resides on the outskirts of Harar has been feeding hyenas for years at his local dwelling during the evenings.
After dark, one can roam around the streets witnessing hyena close up scavenging for food scraps. These local hyena are well accustomed of wandering around freely through urban areas in Harar city without being subjected to harassment. On a few occasions, I saw for myself packs of hyena cruising around after midnight.
Ethiopian overland transit map/ Ezilon political map
Timeout - Lake Victoria
An early morning cruise in a dugout, or small row boat is one way to escape from heavy street noise and chaos for the day. Catching your own dinner for the evening is easy on Lake Victoria with its endless supply of catfish, which are also readily available in most of the food markets close to the lake side in Tanzania, Kenya, and Uganda. Passing the time away grabbing photo-snaps while on the lake of locals dragging their loaded fishing nets onto boats with a variety of different bird species following close behind them is also entertaining. One can also take a quick dip like most locals do to cool off - Image lake Victoria, Tanzania. Ezilon maps - Uganda - Tanzania - Kenya
Namibia
Personally, Namibia is one out of the top 5 countries through the continent. Ethiopia, DRC, South Sudan and Mali follow close behind. Diversity, culture and landscape among these nations is what makes them stand out from the rest.
Namibia, a country worth visiting for anyone who's into arid landscape and wilderness wildlife. The majority of Namibia's coastline is subdued with desert dunes as far as the eye can see. The desert region contains an abundance of wildlife within areas where there's flora, and shrub. Reaching most areas along Namibia's coastline is difficult without the use of a 4WD. If free camping out in the wilderness, an ample food supply, water, including spare fuel is essential. One should also be aware when free camping from snakes and scorpions after sunset.
Namibia has you covered for all types of different travel and transit destinations. The country is still unspoilt compared to other African nations. I've rented 4 wheel drives, and used basic public transport to get around with no issues.
Below, the remains of an American 1930's Hudson coupe laying dormant at the Solitaire gas station. It's probably one of the most photographed pieces of auto nostalgia en-route from Windhoek to Sossusvlei. There's a collection of different classic autos at this remote filling station to keep auto-buffs busy while topping up the 4WD with diesel.
Dune 7 - Namibia, also known as Big Daddy, situated between Sossusvlei and Deadvlei. The dune is approximately 325 meters in height, and probably one of the most climbed up dunes in Africa because of its easy access. The views of the surrounding desert environs are spectacular, but there are many other hills that offer the same or even better views. The best time to ascend up dune 7 is either early morning when the park gates open, or in the late afternoon - unless you want to fry to bits during the blistering midday sun. Namibian Ezilon map
Below, one of many landscape landmarks self-driving through Namibia, the country is well worth two or more visits through different seasons. Having no time limits without travelling in a mad rush (like many do) is the way to see Africa.
Street Captures
Most Africans are just as inquisitive looking at foreigners the same way as we observe them on the street. As mentioned through this website countless times, positive interaction is the key required to open barriers between strangers - no matter who it is. Those who have introverted issues transiting through Africa might as well stay at home down in their basements.
Above image, a shy young tribal shepherd who appeared out from bush shrub for enough time to grab this snap.
Ethiopia is one of the most rewarding countries on the eastern side of the continent to visit and travel through. Like India, Ethiopia has its own mixed diversity of different ethnic tribes and communities scattered in all directions. Random street photography in Ethiopia will wear most out due to the endless amounts of different subjects worth capturing. A three month visa is sufficient enough time for Ethiopia.
A coptic Christian priest who looked as if he disliked being photographed. The glaring look was actually created from the lag time until the priest realised he was being photographed, until he suddenly looked in my direction from 30 metres distance. We had crossed paths again the following day exchanging quick smiles from opposite sides of the street.
It doesn't matter which side of the African continent one begins an overland transit journey. Whether from Morocco, transiting south through the Ivory coast to South Africa, or from the Cape northbound to Egypt. Both overland transit routes have endless amounts of local interaction. There are certain regions classified as off-limits for western foreigners containing Islamic insurgency. These areas are scattered throughout the continent. Travelling through isolated areas of the Sahel should be avoided. Being familiar knowing enough Koranic verses may save your life within red zone regions if any scenario eventuates, but this is not guaranteed, due to the various Islamic splinter groups, rebels, bandits and smuggling gangs operating through the entire region.
Over-landing from Nigeria across to Ethiopia today is certainly classified as a major Red Zone. This includes areas north of DRC to the Mediterranean coast (Algeria, Niger, C.African Rep, Libya, Chad). There are no rules or regulations stopping anyone passing through these countries. Snitching is the main cause of random targeting. Sourcing up to date information from locals should be acknowledged before transiting through red zones. Any movement by extremists are usually unknown until the last moment before they strike.
Over the last few years, the culling of western tourists by Islamic extremists has been ongoing in Kenya, Tanzania, Ethiopia, Somalia, Niger, Morocco, and Egypt. This certainly hasn't stopped the flow of western foreigners visiting these countries. Once Covid restrictions begin to lift, foreigners will flock in droves across the continent thinking of freedom more than their safety. A major issue for western foreigners transiting through central and northern Africa is hotel accommodation. The word of any western tourist staying in isolated hotels in southern Chad, or on along the border regions of Nigeria, Niger, north eastern Kenya, central and southern Somalia, Libya and Mali spreads faster than wildfire. This is how simple it is for foreigners to be randomly taken hostage and victimised. One can never know what could eventuate in a moments notice. Every region has its own mixed diversity and friendly locals with positive interaction. Snitching is common practise. Snitchers can be almost anyone affiliated to Islamist groups. It may be hotel staff, taxi drivers, over friendly locals, or those indoctrinated with anti western Christian dislikes and values.
Himba Tribe
Above, Himba in tribal dresswear strolling in motion carrying supplies through the streets of Opuwo township. Invitation to visit and stay with Himba for a few days or more can be organised within Opuwo - highly recommended.
Himba woman with customary solid hair plaits with bodies coated with mixtures of otjize, butter paste and red ochre.
Each and every tribe follow their own customs and traditions, like this hair plait design, it is distinctive of the Himba tribe. The Himba are the most outgoing friendly tribal community in southern Africa. The small Himba tribal community are totally chilled, even with the onslaught of tourism. If your overland transit direction is northward into Angola, or from northern Botswana, the small township of Opuwo is reached using local transport. Namibian Ezilon map
Spending time interacting with Himba capturing close-up images are hassle free and enjoyable, if positive interaction is used first. There's certainly a few tribal communities in Africa that have been over thrashed with heavy tourism through the decades scarring tribal villages. The Omo valley region in southern Ethiopia is one example of this. Let's hope this doesn't happen to this small Himba community, and remains a quiet destination without heavy tourism.
Capturing random interaction street snaps is a part of any overland travel journey - Don't hesitate You'll regret it!
Heading To Market - Every Town Has One
A large part of the African ambience is taking random street captures of locals going about their daily routines. Sheep and cattle markets are always overflowing with locals trading or selling their stock. Most rural villages, or townships have a vibrant animal market which are usually located just on the edge of any town. Animal markets are a great place to capture close-up interaction snaps of locals, and different activity.
Looking for real African activity? Small rural markets on the edge of towns is the place to start.
Zambezi Catchment
Vic falls is a great place to hang out for a few days relaxing, enjoying the ambience of the Zambezi environs. It's one of the main crossroad junctions which heads in all directions across southern Africa. If anyone's transit route, is towards the Congo, the DRC Embassy in Lusaka will issue visas without too much fuss. Transiting southwards, a valid yellow fever certificate is requested before entering South Africa. Zambian Ezilon map /Zimbabwe Ezilon map
If you pass through Khartoum one location not to miss is the joining of the Niles. The merging of the White and Blue Nile rivers is best seen on Tuti Island. One can also grab a quick snap from the old english bridge, but harassment may occur from bridge security officers which depending on the day may or may not allow photography and seize your SD card. The image above shows the Blue Nile on the left verging with the White Nile flowing from the bridge. The old colonial bridge was actually dismantled in India and brought to Sudan by the British.
Above image - the White Nile flowing through Southern Sudan. Below, The Blue Nile catchment in upper Ethiopia.
Distinctive Tradition - Tattoo
Ethiopian coptic woman who have customary tattoos are generally spotted within rural communities throughout the country. Looking for them is simplified by visiting small out of town villages away from any large hub. They can also be seen during busy market days, which are normally held weekly by different locals gathering within a 100km radius. There are close similarities in tattoo designs with other ethnic groups in India, and Myanmar. Below, a 90+ year old Coptic woman proudly displays her full throat and lower jaw line tattoo.
Bangles and Anklets
Grabbing close-up snaps of tribal jewellery, bracelets, necklaces, and leather garments is easily done within busy market areas when locals congregate together selling and trading their goods. Market days are always cluttered with women who are adorned with handcrafted neck, arm and leg bracelets. Women from the Hamar tribe in southern Ethiopia wear enough neck and leg bracelets to sink a ship, but they're probably the most fittest, and strongest of all the tribes put together throughout Africa.
Above, a normal vision seen within tribal communities of bare foot woman adorned with solid heavy calf bracelets.
Most arm and leg bracelets, bangles and anklets are constructed from raw metals from nickel, silver, brass and copper.
The Hamer and Himba tribes maybe separated by thousands of kilometres from one another, but both tribes share common nomadic pastoralists lifestyles .They also share the same traditional customs of wearing heavy duty anklets displaying their own unique designs. The anklets also severe the purpose of protecting them from venomous snakebites.
Rooftop Plateau - Lesotho
Dirt track routes from South Africa through the Drakensberg mountains to Lesotho are many. Once one arrives up on to the plateau, the barren landscape welcomes you with a slight wind chill which turns into snow blizzard during winter season. The 3000 metre high altitude plateau is used for grazing during summer by Lesotho farmers. It's quite common to spot highland herdsmen riding bareback wrapped in blankets mustering their herds.
South African Ezilon map Lesotho Ezilon map
Bushland Black Tea
The grubbier the pot is, the better the tea tastes. Africans are great coffee and tea addicts, they can sip and devour their favourite hot drinks non-stop all day.
Roadside Snaps
It's common in tribal communities for residents to walk kilometres from one village to another. Capturing random snaps of ethnic individuals along roadsides in between villages is best during the early morning or late afternoons. Most villages have multiple water bores where woman congregate washing clothes, or to pickup fresh water supplies. In Africa, wherever there's a water supply, there's usually lot's of activity and action. Hanging out at any busy water supply are great locations to capture images. This works everywhere through the continents of Africa, Asia, and the Middle East.
Baobab trees (bottle neck) perched along a stretch of highway in northern Mozambique.
Small Himba camps are usually located close to dirt roads and easily approached without issues. The above camp was situated heading north towards the Angolan border. Below, best mates, Hamer tribesmen are typically seen grazing stock within their allotted land plots along the side of dirt track highways.
Below, for decades the Mursi tribe have heavily relied on tourism. This has caused Mursi groups to be solely dependent on cash donations from tourists. This has caused an aggressive behaviour from some locals who demand over rated fees to enter their camps, including any photography. Excessive alcohol consumption plays a part of the aggressive behaviour which I witnessed first hand at one particular Mursi camp. Two other foreigners didn't even bother to get out of their vehicle, due to the aggressive atmosphere. Heavy tourism through the years is the direct blame causing internal problematic issues. limited tourism quoters each year would solve this problem.
Markets and Rivers - Rural Africa
Africa certainly has no shortage of babies. Woman with their young, wrapped in linen on their backs are normally seen in rural markets. Baby snap captures are generally easy to get throughout the African continent. In general, most mothers enjoy being photographed with their young. Good locations are at open vegetable, meat, and fish markets, or down at any river or estuary where locals congregate collecting water, and washing clothes.
Above, Isolated tribal communities washing and collecting water supplies at rivers is an everyday occurrence and witnessed in remote regions through the continent. Some tribal groups may resent being photographed. The first few days creating a positive atmosphere interacting with locals without photo-gear is recommended. As soon as a friendly interaction level is formed, most locals won't hesitate being photographed. This has always worked for me.
Below, wharfs and shipping docks are usually buzzing with activity in the mornings. Locals are easily spotted off-loading a variety of surplus goods from cargo and fishing boats. Finding a good angle to capture images will depend on each location if there's room enough on the walkway, or down beside where the action is. Getting up as close as possible is key to capture some great snaps.
Below, random street snaps like this are easily captured anywhere through Africa without too much difficulty using the most basic photo-gear. If a particular daily market has numerous subjects of interest, then it's advisable to return a few times over a couple of days. Not all markets are the same, with some superior than others. It's all about luck and timing with a mix of interaction effort to capture rewarding images.
Quick Snaps
African street chill-outs have their own ambience and style in each country. This sidewalk cafe had its own unique setting displaying a hand painted abstract spread along a wall of local rural culture. With no camera at the time, I grabbed this quick snap with a cell. At the end of the day anything that can take an image is better than nothing. The below image was also a snap capture taken with a smart phone resulting with horrible HDR effect.
Sometimes taking a quick snap during transit turns out better than expected like these children caught floating in mid-air with a view of local landscape. Rural village markets are always bustling with locals with a variety of different motion images that are easily captured. The snap below shows a local manually sifting corn maize separating the chaff.
Boat Building
Credit certainly has to go to local boat builders along African coastlines. A part of their ingenuity is by using basic tools required to construct an ocean going boat. Basic tools like a crowbar, hand saw, chisel and hammer, are the only tools used from start to finish completing a floatable boat. Some of the wood used is either washed-up sea debris found along shorelines, discarded fence posts, and wooden planks from nearby building sites.
Shembe - Africa
Although the Shembe are known more as a religious group in the southern half of Africa, they also do have tribal roots. Each year, the Shembe celebrate their traditional rituals and customs in certain regions wearing leopard skin, and meerkat tails. They play their own musical rhythms with chants, dance and songs. No footwear is allowed at Shembe festivals if Shembe himself has planned to visit. It's bare feet all day.
If there was ever an image that I could say was difficult to capture, the below portrait would be one of them. An invitation to private Shembe gatherings is difficult let alone trying to grab an image of their Leader - Bishop Mduduzi Shembe.
Tribal Lands - Semi-Nudity
Westerners who have a problem with nudity in their own countries will certainly have to deal with their personal dislikes of nudity through Africa within tribal zones. Theres's no escape of seeing nudity in tribal-zones - male and female, those who have a problem with it, should avoid tribal zones. Go to to beaches instead!
Tribal lands throughout Africa well off the beaten track within isolated regions in the middle of nowhere contain different forms of nudity. Some tribal groups bathe and wash completely stark naked without embarrassment with both sexes sharing the same river location together. Some foreigners visiting these locations may feel uncomfortable viewing a crowd of naked locals semi or completely naked washing clothes, bathing , or taking a dunk to cool off. Locals will normally ignore foreigners without any fuss or bother. Interacting will depend if any idiot western tourist in the past had upset someone, like photographing a married female, or ignoring the tribal vibe around them before capturing images. Like anywhere else, using basic common sense, and interacting with locals first is how it works. Almost the majority of isolated tribal groups throughout Africa are accustomed of displaying various forms of public nudity within their communities without issues. This is witnessed from South Africa as far up as Ethiopia and across to the Ivory Coast.
Above, two locals from the Himba tribe taken in public on the streets of Opuwo township in Namibia. Westerners over-landing through Africa for their very first time maybe offended by tribal nudity. This can't be avoided wherever tribal communities congregate - like down at most rivers where tribal groups normally bath and wash semi-naked, or within their villages. This is a normal occurrence seen in Africa without exaggerated fuss and bother - a prohibited taboo in the West, unless at a registered nudist camp, or inside a grotty strip club. Photographing anyone semi-naked will depend on who it is, and if they allow it. Tribal woman can quickly become aggressive towards foreigners capturing images of them without positive interaction and permission.
Below, a Himba female with prepared smoked aromatic herbs mixed with resins similar to incense used as an antimicrobial body cleansing agent.
