Midwinter Overland - Himalayan Highlands
Journey To Snow Leopard Territory
All Images By Rick Hemi
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Most Traveled Kiwi Since The Early '80s
That sounds like quite a tall statement to make, but there's more than enough evidence through this website revealing countless long-term overland journeys throughout the planet since '82. Even though, there will be a few Kiwis who will reject such a claim. Sorry guys - I don't think you'll find anyone else out there who's still "travel hyperactive" dating back to the '80s era.
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A successful overland midwinter journey high up into the Indian Himalaya to photograph Snow Leopards. The chances of capturing these high altitude big cats up close with photo-gear is more difficult than what most can imagine. The extreme sub-zero temperatures above 4000 meters will test anyone's capabilities of sustaining this type of environment. Photo gear failure is also common in subzero temps below minus -20C. over periods beyond two weeks. Reaching Kaza is a mission during midwinter. There's only one road route open reaching Spiti valley, which on this occasion was blocked for a few days from avalanches. The Leh Manali road route is closed every year from October to May. The road journey from Chandigarh to Kaza changes considerably, passing through rugged mountain gorges climbing up above the tree line, into snow clad mountains along the edge of ravines and deep gorges. There's no airport in this region — as yet. The only way of reaching Spiti valley through the midwinter season, is with any available transportation. Who wants to fly anyway? Overland journeys like this are virtually impossible to beat and always remembered.
Why just look at the Himalaya from distance? Instead, motivate yourself traveling through this mountainous region in subzero conditions experiencing real time inspiration. Those browsing on this page will find one thing different that stands out compared to other travel logs covering this region — Zero greenery landscape. Everything is pure white saturated under blankets of snow. This alone shows the difference between fluff puff travel and real travel. In the summer season, anyone can reach Spiti valley, but certainly not in midwinter. Subzero temps below minus -25C at elevations above 4000 meters will test any person's ability to cope within extreme environments. And don't think gazing out at a pure white canvas self-tracking spotting for snow leopards is an easy task — It's not.
Coldest subzero temperature using a glass tube hospital thermometer — minus -33C (wind speed 15 km/h = minus -45C, minus -49F)
Kaza during midwinter is totally the opposite of Leh. Spiti valley is still the most isolated region to reach during the cold season. The majority of hotels are closed and public transport is minimal. Water pipes are frozen solid, and daily power shedding is normal. Foreigners are invisible with most not able to handle staying within extreme conditions having only the basic necessities. Still with no airport, Kaza is the great escape away from everything that's normal.
The first leg of this overland journey was by train. Sipping on milk chai gazing at passing landscape is by far a superior experience than flying across the sky. Little has changed since the 1980s, 2nd class sleepers are still roomy with tons of storage space, sheets and blanket, fan and AC ...what more does one need?
My photo-gear and other stuff clocked up over 4600 kms of overland transit on this journey with zero damage. No rips, drops, malfunctions, or lens fungus issues. The same photo-gear has completed numerous overland transit journeys through Asia since 2014. Outer protective covers, inner liners and wraps have kept camera gear safe.
Nothing matches train transit crossing India. Sleeping, snacking, chit chatting and taking cabin coach strolls has worked for me since the early eighties. Every time I grab a train in India, I know what to expect on board - food sellers, chai vendors, spice and peanut sellers, ice cream vendors, full breakfasts, lunch and dinners, lot's of chit chat, and endless passing landscape views.
Reaching the foot hills from Chandigarh takes around an hour's drive. The highway from Shimla during winter can suddenly become blocked or closed. On this particular occasion, the roads had just reopened a few days before allowing vehicles access through to Jeori and Rekong Peo.
Below, image snaps near Rampur, the pickup I was in received a grease lube before heading further up into highland wilderness. It's common practice to have vehicles fully serviced before winter season. Brake and steering checks, electrical, and replacement engine transmission oil and filters are usual requests.
The road journey to Kaza via Shimla begins through lowland mountainous terrain. The gradual climb develops into unforgiving icy road tracks reaching 3700 meter elevations. There's no room for driver error along this route during midwinter.
Road work construction and road repairs are ongoing throughout the year in mountainous regions of India. Depending on the amount of snowfall and sudden blizzards, road routes can become suddenly blocked by avalanches and rock fall.
The only overland route open through winter to Spiti Valley is via Shimla. Local bush bus transport operates to Rekong Peo. This is where inner line permits are easily processed without fuss for foreigners.
Himachal Pradesh highlands public transportation - Kalka - Shimla - Rampur - Jeori - Rekong Peo.
Reaching isolated high altitude regions through midwinter can never be planned in advance. It only takes one heavy avalanche to block road routes for days, or even weeks. One can also become stuck trying to get out of high altitude zones caused by fresh snowfall. The road block risk factor increases during the months of December and January from snow drift, including melting snow in April and May. Stopping a night en-route at Shimla, Rampur and Jeori villages to Rekong Peo helps adjust to higher altitudes further up at Spiti Valley.
During mid-winter, local buses only operate up to Rekong Peo. From there, vans and private vehicles are available to Kaza. Those hitching lifts beyond Rekeng Peo should only accept rides with experienced drivers returning to Spiti valley.
The overland journey to Spiti Valley criss-crosses over numerous ravines and gorges - Shongtong Bridge.
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Foreigners do require inner line permits to travel along the Rekong Peo/Kaza route. Permits are issued at the Tourist Information Centre in Rekong Peo. Permit processing time can take a few hours, permits are valid for 15 days, and extendable in Kaza. Those with OCI documents do not require inner line permits.
The bitter feel of subzero freezer like conditions begins at Rekong Peo. Grabbing lifts onward to Kaza is at the crossroad junction below Rekong Peo. It's advisable to secure lifts as early as possible.
Overland Himalayan midwinter journey of journeys — Rekong Peo to Komic elevation 2290m to 4580m
At higher elevation levels waterfalls and pockets of water become frozen in time until the warmer months begin in April-May. Only during midwinter one can capture images like this.
Icicle cluster formations are more noticeable after Rekong Peo. They're also good warning signs for deposits of black ice scattered on roads hidden from the midwinter sun.
A Himalayan Griffon waiting patiently to feast on road kill. The image was taken on the way to Rekong Peo.
Road slips, rock fall and avalanches are normal occurrences from Jeori village and onward. Travel delays cannot be avoided during midwinter season (Dec-Feb). One can be lucky enough to reach Kaza without time delays, but who's in a rush anyway? The most unforgettable experiences on any journey are during transit stops along the way, which include road block stops. Rock fall is real, It only takes one boulder to stop any vehicle in its tracks.
Driving after dark in this region is totally suicidal. Drivers caught out on black ice, snow drift, or from road slips driving at night will have no choice to survive down to minus -30C sub-zero temps until rescued. Small rocks had actually struck the vehicle in the image above. We were lucky this time it wasn't from a large boulder.
One of four vehicles used between Rekong Peo and Spiti Valley. Image was taken at Rekong Peo during a three day delay due to increased snow drift and blizzards causing avalanches further up the highway.
Top Left, a snow avalanche that had blocked the road for three days. Those looking for or wanting to experience one of the most hardcore midwinter road journeys will not be disappointed. The Reknog Peo - Kaza route surpasses any other midwinter transit journeys throughout he entire Himalayan region.
Transporter vans operate from Rampur to Kaza. Pre-booking seats is required through January and February. All foreigners require an inner line permit which can be processed either in Shimla and Rekong Peo. One can be extremely lucky to hitch lifts in Rekong Peo or down at the crossroad junction below Rekong Peo. Foreigners are prohibited to stay overnight within the Sumdo-Tabo regions.
Accidents do happen on this particular road route, especially with local tourists from around India who aren't familiar with black ice and narrow hair pin bends along the edges of ravines and gorges. Speed is the major cause of accidents. Going over the edge plummeting down ravines up here in midwinter usually ends tragically.
Above the tree line on the high road early morning en-route to Pooh/Nako. As the image shows, there's no traffic issues through midwinter on this single one way in and out Himalayan route.
Breath taking landscape through this region cant be appreciated unless one actually completes this journey themselves.
If there's a place of isolation living within wilderness, this is it. Locals residing up here are a tough breed of people surviving every year through harsh seasonal changes. An ideal location to settle in the 2020s escaping from the mad crazy world.
The high altitude road track reaching Spiti Valley is one of the most treacherous routes in India during the peak of midwinter. The road route gradually climbs cutting along the edge of Himalayan rock face. The road route to Spiti Valley is one way in one way out.
44 gallon drums filled with rocks are used as safety barriers along this route. Road construction and road repairs continue yearly non-stop due to the evolving rugged environment.
Road construction workers above 3500 meters in sub zero temps. If you think your job has become boring - you can always head to the mountains and join a road construction crew.
The great escape winding up along road loop switchbacks to Spiti Valley. Although this route is a gradual climb from Shimla, it does have exceptional hairpin bends along the edge of deep ravines.
The Indian Himalaya bordering Tibet can't get better views like above. Due to the sensitivity of this region, image captures of army personal, military posts and army locations should be avoided from Rekong Peo to Tabo.
The Shimla road route to Spiti Valley is the only overland transit option reaching Kaza through midwinter.
If you're lucky, some road stops where food and hot chai are severed could be open - But don't count on it.
Traveling along this high altitude road track during midwinter, one experiences real time reality of rugged wilderness Himalayan landscape. terrain up close in your face. The summer months through the region is the opposite flooded with full on tourism with both Shimla and Manali routes open. Little to no tourism ventures through this route during midwinter due to the extreme subzero temperatures.
Widely known as one of the most dangerous road routes on the planet during midwinter. Driving on the edge of the Himalaya can't get more extreme than this. There aren't many original rugged road routes left like above.
Above, a scenic snap of icicles above 3680 meters elevation enroute to Spiti Valley during midwinter. The daylight temp was approximately minus -15C at the time the image was taken. When the sun disappears temperatures at this location drop down to minus -35C.
Capturing images on this midwinter journey were done using DSLR and point and shoot cameras - not phone cameras.
Road construction crew relaxing beside a temple enjoying the view absorbing morning sunlight.
Those who rent or have vehicles who are not accustomed to driving on rugged dirt roads up in high altitude in extreme midwinter conditions should give this particular journey a miss. Hitting black ice commonly happens in shady areas along cliff-edge road tracks. There's zero room for driver error here. Going over the edge on high pass altitude road routes happens — Don't become one of them.
Road construction workers are constantly seen repairing or modifying highways throughout the state of Himachal Pradesh. Rekong Peo Spiti valley winter road crews are a super tough breed of people. They're certainly used to working in extreme subzero temperatures in high altitude regions above 3500 meter elevations for weeks on end.
Capturing images of the rugged Himalayan landscape enroute to Kaza. Taking more images than required is never regretted through regions that may never be revisited again for years to come. Since 1982, I've used Nikon photo gear on most overland travel journeys. More on my photo gear in the photo gear page.
Road signage and village km distance markers are plentiful along this route. The Pooh and Malling pass at 3624 elevation are probably the most photographed road signage between Rekong Peo and Kaza.
27 km Sumdo road marker signage. It's the closet point on this particular road route bordering Tibet. Photography is forbidden within this region due to the sensitivity between India and China. The Indian Himalayan road routes are much higher in altitude in comparison to road routes through Nepal and Tibet.
Overland journey through rugged Himalayan wilderness along the classic high pass route from Rekong Peo to Kaza.
Getting caught out in snow drift at high elevation levels requires snow chains. Without them, the risk of sliding off cliff edge road tracks becomes reality. Poor road conditions, low visibility, and snow drift at high elevations, is a volatile mix to inexperienced drivers. Driver awareness to complete overland journeys like above is about safety first.
High altitude cliff edge overhangs with icicles, snow drift and black ice, rock fall, and avalanches are part of the journey to and from Kaza during midwinter on the Shimla route. This particular journey took 5 days in total reaching Kaza due to avalanche holdups.
Clear blue skies heading out from Tabo with 46 km left reaching Kaza Khas.
Spiti valley river elevation 3600M, typical day temp minus -15C, night minus -35C
Driving along the edge towards Spiti Valley. No one drives after dark here due to black ice issues.
Road machinery never goes to waste in remote regions. This dozer still has plenty of spare parts.
Roadside view of the main entrance gate of Tabo monastery. Foreigners may still require permits to stay overnight in and around the Tabo district. This can be verified at the Kaza police station.
These two images show the rapid change of daylight remaining in late afternoon heading towards Kaza. The single road track during midwinter can suddenly become covered under snow. After dark the highway turns to solid ice. Locals through the region avoid driving vehicles after sun set, unless emergencies occur. At the time these snaps were taken, the outside temp using a glass tube thermometer was minus -19C without windchill factored in (wind speed 15 km/h = minus -28C)
Spiti Valley - Midwinter
Spiti Valley view captured at 4000M elevation. I use DSLR photo gear to get my still shots avoiding smart phone camera junk and point and shoots for obvious reasons - superior quality. Even though these two images (the below a cropped enlargement from the above) are only low resolution for web, they show the end result using full frame lenses. Images - Nikon 12MP D3S, AFS 14-24mm F/2.8G ED.
During summer, Kaza has a constant flow of local and foreign tourists passing through the valley. During midwinter, Kaza and other village communities become ghost towns, with very little movement, or activity. The off season is actually the best time visiting Spiti valley. The journey itself reaching Spiti is an overland road journey experience remembered for a lifetime. Below, point and shoot location snap at 4100 meters, minus -15C (wind speed 20 km/h = minus -24C)
Spiti Valley during mid-winter matches or even surpasses other high altitude regions around the planet. It's because of its unique isolated location. There is no airport (as yet), and only one single road track connecting Kaza to the outside world from October to March. During winter, Spiti valley becomes the favorite region to photograph snow leopards and other high altitude wildlife.
Kaza's elevation is one hundred meters higher than Leh. Kaza also surpasses other neighboring highland villages and towns i.e. Pokhara (827M) Kathmandu (1300M) Skardu (2270M). Kaza is approximately at the same elevation as Lhasa in Tibet. Acclimatization isn't usually required if road journeys through midwinter are spread over a two to three day period.
Above, early morning midwinter temperatures in the Spiti region were recorded using a genuine hospital glass tube thermometer. The above snap of minus -26C (-15F) was taken at 7am. The lowest recorded subzero temps over three weeks were all before daybreak averaging minus -29C to -35C. Adding the 3670M altitude elevation with wind chill applied, the subzero temps could easily of reached minus -40C. Further up at 4400M in the Komic region, daytime temps averaged minus -14C to -17C. If you want to experience cold - This is the location.
Grabbing quick snaps, point and shoot elevated view of Kaza Khas - 4100+ meters altitude minus -15C
During winter, Kibber is well known as a hot hub location for wildlife photographers in pursuit of capturing images of snow leopards. I wasn't based in Kibber on this journey. I took the chance going it alone elsewhere in the valley away from the Kibber-Chicham zone to capture images of snow leopards.
Yak herds are fed daily in these regions through the entire winter season from October to May.
This is my second visit to Spiti Valley and it certainly won't be the last. Anyone that's passed through this region during both seasons will probably agree without debate.
Key Gompa is actually more breath taking than the Potala palace in Lhasa. Maybe this would be a different story if Tibetans still owned their ancestral lands before it was forcefully taken from them by the Chinese in 1950. Key monastery and the entire region of Spiti Valley is Buddhist territory. Let's hope it remains this way.
Warm clothing, thermal wear, gloves and reliable hiking boots are required up at these high altitudes. Camera gear should have extra batteries due to rapid drainage by subzero temps. Freezing cold high altitude locations affect people differently, some with severe headaches, others with muscle cramps and colds. Being fit and healthy before arriving to extreme regions is recommended.
local road maintenance crews through the Himalaya region can be spotted clearing snow-slip blockages along certain road routes. The crew above were clearing a slip @4200M along the Hikkem road between Key and Komic.
During winter under a blanket of snow, highland wildlife are easier to spot. Blue sheep normally remain together in small flocks. The above image shows over a dozen blue sheep fossicking for plant and grass based food where snow has melted.
Close to the Pin Valley turn-off, half a dozen blue sheep spotted heading down a mountain side.
Typical midwinter blue sky snow covered landscape - Kaza Spiti Valley.
Waking up to high clifftop views and snow clad mountains sipping on hot chai in Kaza township gets 10/10
Street dogs up in this region are tougher than tough. They're used to surviving on whatever scraps are available each day, and sleep out in extreme sub-zero temperatures through the winter season.
In January-February, Kaza can be an inhospitable place for some. Those who can't handle extreme subzero temps should instead visit Spiti valley during the summer season. Take this as good advice.
Dress wear of these local women reveals how cold it is at midday, even when the sun is out in Kaza.
Roads are cleared as much as possible after heavy snow fall. This keeps available transport operating safely through to Chicham, Komic and to other isolated zones through the valley i.e. Kaza, Rangrik, Key, Langza, Kibber, Chicham, Komic, Lidang, Dhankar, Tabo.
How cold can it get in Spiti Valley? On this journey I broke my own freezer record of minus -25C in Tibet back in the 1980s. On this journey, I used a genuine hospital thermometer recording snap-shots of subzero temps at different intervals. Minus -33C (-27.4 F) being the coldest at daybreak. Minus -12C to -15C inside non-heated rooms is normal up here in midwinter.
During a Spiti valley winter, one never knows what the weather conditions will be the following morning. It maybe overcast and snowing, or sunny with clear blue skies. What is known, and felt, are the subzero temps easily reaching minus -15C to -30C just before sunrise. Kaza's 3600 meter high altitude also adds a bonus chill factor throughout the valley. Above, on this particular morning the temp recorded with a glass tube thermometer was minus -30C (wind speed 15 km/h = minus -41C, minus -42F)
This particular winter unleashed heavy blizzards covering the entire region under thick blankets of snow. On rare occasions snowfall is minimal. The best months for complete whiteouts are January and February.
During winter, it takes approximately 12-14 hours to reach Kaza from Rampur. From Rampur, local buses continue down hill to Shimla, Kalka, and Chandigarh. The above image was taken in transit en-route from Kaza to Tabo using local public transport.
In winter, drivers normally travel in pairs along this highland route for safety reasons. The odd avalanche caused by heavy snow fall can block this route for days on end. It can be clear blue skies one day, and snowing the next. Forget about keeping precise travel schedules up in this region from December through to March.
Like anywhere else through the planet, positive interaction skills with locals in Spiti Valley goes along way.
During midwinter, traveling around through the valley should be done allowing ample time to return to home base before the sun sets. The temperature up here drops rapidly with no mercy.
Wearing sunnies in high altitude snow clad regions is a necessity to protect from getting snow blindness. Symptoms of snow blindness (Photokeratitis) are as follows: uncontrollable eyelid twitching, hazy vision, tearing watering eyes, swelling, blood shot eyes, sand like grit feeling in eyes.
I still prefer the astro images at the above location I had taken a few years ago. It was actually a full moon on this midwinter visit, so there was little chance of doing any Astro photography. Instead, I managed taking a few moon shot captures — In subzero minus -20C -25C
Spiti Valley is known for Cephalopods and Belemnites. They can be found in the remote regions around Komic, Langza and Hikkim. The cephalopod shown in the image above was discovered in Langza.
A local throwing crushed stone along the roadway at Chicham gorge. Chicham bridge is highest suspension bridge on earth @4145M.
Chicham Bridge Gorge, a favourite location where pro-photographers bring their customers to capture images of snow leopards (if spotted). I was set-up here for a few hours, but decided to move elsewhere on my own. As usual, in extreme isolated locations like this, one has to decide to either follow the pack, or go it alone. All I can say, going it alone was the right choice. Paying local mafia tax to photograph on a public road, and trying to interact with snotty group travel wildlife photographers wasn't why I came to this region.
A group of wildlife photographers and local spotters at the edge of Chicham gorge during midwinter.
Chicham gorge bridge 4,145m (13,596 ft) heading towards Chicham village just a little further up the track.
In winter, local spotters and trackers from Kibber & Chicham work around the clock watching for movement locating snow leopards exclusively for wildlife photography groups.
Wildlife tracks are abundant at Chicham gorge during winter. Blue sheep, Ibex, fox, and snow leopard can be spotted in this region. The downward angle and distance capturing images of wildlife from across the gorge isn't the best. There's no other choice at this particular location during winter. The location is also bare of snow. I didn't do the overland mileage to photograph snow leopard as if they were captured in the summer months — anyone can do that.
Snow leopards camouflage themselves into landscape without other wildlife detecting them — including humans. The best time for spotting snow leopards, is during midwinter when the highlands are covered under a thick blanket of snow.
To tell you the truth, I disliked Chicham bridge for one reason. A rip-off "village development fee" to photograph snow leopards spotted or not on a public road is insane! In the first hour things were fine, until the billing crew arrived charging independent photographers along the only public access road from Chicham to Kaza.
wildlife photographers can find snow leopards at other locations up and around Langza, Hikkim, Komic, and further south, where fees and permits DON'T apply to photograph from public roads, or from the edge of cliffs and ravines. Warning, safety completely disappears for those pushing the boundaries if walking beyond the edge of roadsides with or without photo gear in midwinter.
Above, my first snow leopard shots in India. Yes, in of all the excitement there was no time for camera adjustments while this big cat was staring straight at me. These images could easily look as if they were captured in the summer season. It was one of the reasons to look elsewhere to self-scout snow leopards located in snow clad landscape. The extreme angle was another reason leaving this location.
This is why Snow Leopards are nicknamed the "Grey Ghost". Snow leopards can be starring straight in front of you without even noticing they're there. These shots were captured at Chicham gorge.
One can be fortunate to capture snow leopards on their feet slowing pacing around. Patience is key with these highland cats, they can sleep all day without moving a muscle, and then spring into life and disappear within seconds.
All following image captures of Snow Leopards, and other wildlife were taken at other locations in Spiti Valley.
Finding snow leopards on your own begins with a good set of binoculars to spot them with. With time and plenty of patience, one can be lucky enough at any given location to see these Himalayan big cats roaming freely in the wild.
Himalayan Griffon and Bearded Vulture captured in the sky above Spiti Valley.
A Golden Eagle captured along the Hikkim Road in midwinter.
During midwinter season in Spiti valley, nothing's better than cruising around spotting wildlife on your own. Go where you want, stop where you want, and freely photograph what you see. I certainly didn't require local guides, porters, or wildlife tour agencies i.e. 'snow leopard expeditions' to get out spotting and photographing wildlife. All that was required was a good safe local driver.
Below, a snow leopard captured well away from the Kibber-Chicham region. Those hiring local drivers from Kaza, like myself, can instead drive to other regions in and around the Spiti-Pin valley district to capture snow leopards. First, one should look for fresh signs of snow leopard tracks, and other wildlife like blue sheep and ibex at the same location. Using binoculars to self-scout through each location for any sudden movement. Birds circling in the air are positive signs of an already kill by snow leopards.
Preceding to any kill location may or may not be reached because of impassable ravines or snow above knee level. Safety must be the first priority before rushing off in the middle of nowhere. There is no law how close one can be photographing snow leopards, but don't push it. Snow leopards, like other big cats like their breathing space.
During winter, local wildlife are easily spotted wandering across snow. Capturing closeup images of distant wildlife is accomplished using full frame DSLR tele-lenses of 400mm and up. Backup SD and flash cards and spare fully charged batteries are a necessity up here in this subzero region.
The art of getting down as low as possible capturing wildlife makes a huge difference with composition. This snap is better than the previous fox captured at a higher angle. Setting up camera gear in the right location with numerous horizontal angles is difficult with snow at knee level. It's all about luck and patience and how much one can handle subzero temps.
I used one of my own custom rest-bags that I had designed back in 2006. Here it is in action fourteen years later with an AFS Nikon 200-400 f/4G VRII capturing snaps on DX mode (600mm equivalent). There was no problem sourcing dry sawdust in Kaza to fill the bag.
This rest bag has been a part of my camera gear stuff for years. It's been reliable and has never failed supporting heavy lenses at countless locations around the planet. I've designed and made several different models i.e. small, medium, large, including low slim flip designs to shoot from vehicle windows when wound down.
Watching blue sheep scaling cliff faces with ease and precision in subzero temps.
Spending time in the great outdoors in this region of India during midwinter is worth every inch getting there. Freedom to roam around, stop where you wish, capturing random shots of wildlife, and enjoying open panorama views of the rugged Himalaya without another person in sight is more than rewarding. I've always enjoyed traveling within isolated regions. Spiti during peak midwinter gets 10/10 hands down.
Blue sheep and Ibex are the main food source for snow leopards. There has never been a human casualty from snow leopard attacks, due the abundance and breeding of these two highland animals.
Blue sheep can be easily spotted at distant wandering in snow clad mountain terrain looking for food throughout the Spiti region. I'm not your guru telling what type of photo gear is required up here in midwinter. You will need some form of long range optics. It is virtually impossible to reach wildlife closeup in thick snow terrain. By chance, wildlife can be wandering within the vicinity of road tracks and passable cliffs. Most pro-wildlife photographers have probably laughed at the photo gear I used to capture my shots, but with all coincidences, the 1986 Nikkor 800 5.6 AIS and D3S managed to get all the snow leopard shots - 150+ in total. Manual focusing is old school, 12MP camera bodies are a thing of the past, but they still work today in any environment. What ever camera gear one decides to use in the Himalayan midwinter, do avoid arriving just with point and shoots and smart phone cameras to capture snow leopards. One should already know how reliable their equipment is before arriving to Spiti. Fully charged backup batteries are priority in this subzero region.
Himalayan wildlife photo gear : 800mm lens : 200-400 zoom : 2 bodies : tripod : tripod rest bag : backup batteries.
The 12MP DSLR Nikon D3, now a dinosaur camera to most. The D3 hasn't missed a beat since 2013, and will still probably be capturing good daylight snaps a decade from now. As the saying goes, using the latest camera gear doesn't make you a better photographer.
Indian Himalayan highlands — wilderness wildlife — subzero midwinter — 4200M - 4500M elevation.
Photo gear was minimal on this journey. The following stuff was brought along: An '86 Nikon 800mm 5.6 ED AIS lens, AFS 200-400 f/4G VRII, AFS 14-24 f/2.8G, D3 & D3S bodies, Sony RX5, Gitzo/Markins CF Tripod, Wimberley WH-200 head. All photo gear survived without any issues. One concern was the 800mm manual focus lens in subzero temps below minus -25C. Focus worm thread grease seizure and front lens cracks has happened with older lenses in extreme subzero temps below minus -25C.
Just before this overland journey, I had posted on a "Nikon Photo Gear" website reaching out for advice from "Pro Nikon Users" in a "below zero lens" discussion thread, whether it's safe, or not, using old lens in high altitude in extreme subzero conditions. We'll unfortunately, that was a waste of time, I received zero feedback, not even one comment of any helpful advice - thank you to all you pro-Nikon User Guys on that thread - you know who you are!
Two different locations of fresh snow leopard paw prints and tail drag.
Early morning fresh snow leopard tracks. Tail drag in snow is clearly visible in the above two snaps. As a hunter in my own country, one can easily calculate how old deer droppings are by their moisture and softness. Fresh snow leopard paw tracks in snow can be identified by the top edges of imprints. Once droppings and paw print indentations in snow have been calculated, one can then determine if it's worth to set up photo gear in that area. Vultures and other birds of prey circling in the sky is a guaranteed location point that something has just been freshly killed. Reaching kill zones can be impossible locations to reach, although one can be lucky enough getting to them, if the terrain is kind to you.Safety is the first priority up here in subzero temps. Those going it alone avoiding areas like Kibber and Chicham gorge, without the use of guides will eventually find snow leopards elsewhere, if using the above information. If I can do it, so can most of you out there! Time, patience, and determination is required within extreme inhospitable environments. Those who can handle subzero temps in isolated regions will enjoy what the Spiti Valley region has to offer in midwinter.
Above, a snow leopard wading through snow showing tail drag. Yes, snow leopards do roam through snow, debunking what other's have stated they don't. The above snow leopard was self-spotted above 4400m, captured with dinosaur photo gear, 2009 12MP D3S and 1986 800 5.6 ED AIS lens — how about that? Below, droppings from snow Leopard and blue Sheep were collected for a single shot showing how to identify their droppings.
What I've learned through the decades of overland travel, is to follow your own instinct and not others. Self-scouting, and tracking snow leopards is unusual especially for anyone who doesn't know the terrain. Even the hired driver, who lives in this region laughed at me shaking his head sideways. He told me, he has never seen snow leopards roaming around, apart from Chicham gorge, but then was he actually driving past snow leopards elsewhere without even noticing them. If your inner instinct says yes, to do something on your accord within certain regions, then do it without regret. Normally, a person's instinct, if followed leads to positive outcomes. If I was to ignore what my own instinct was telling me up here in Spiti valley, I would instead be just like other people going to Kibber and Chicham Gorge taking subpar snaps, and paying mafia fees.
It's true, location is everything, especially within high up altitudes in subzero freezing conditions with photo gear. Above, 10Kg of camera gear setup at an isolated location without tourists or other photographers in sight. Image location snaps like above are priceless when you take them yourself — Indian Himalaya 2020s.
Snow leopard territory — wandering blue sheep and ibex tracks, Indian Himalaya midwinter
Snow leopards aren't locked up here in zoos or refined to one region i.e Kibber district. Snow leopards freely roam wherever they please, normally close by to wherever blue sheep and ibex gather. The above image shows a perfect setting where snow leopards could appear from out of nowhere within minutes. Below, on location keeping distance from fresh snow leopard tracks.
Snow Leopards - Subzero Wilderness Big Cats
Self-scouting finding fresh snow leopard tracks and droppings eventually located this snow leopard.
Basic Helpful Information : Self-scouting snow leopards on your own is at your risk and peril : Time and patience is required : Binoculars are a necessity : Know how to use your photo gear in unbearable conditions : Carry fully charged backup camera batteries : Extra SD/Flash cards : Food snacks, and hot beverages : Arrive back to home base before the sun sets.
Long distance, short distance, sideways, half exposed ...who cares? Capturing images of Snow Leopards up in high altitudes in extreme subzero temps isn't something that happens everyday. Many wildlife photographers who do come to Spiti to photograph these big cats leave the region disappointed without even grabbing a single shot. Paying large amounts of cash for guides, spotters and accommodation, like in Kibber, is optional. This isn't required for those who know how to self-track, spot and find snow leopards themselves - Got It?
Who cares feeling the extreme subzero cold biting your bones, who cares if the sun is about to set dropping temps below minus -30C. The gratitude of self-spotting, tracking, watching, and photographing snow leopards captured in slow motion walking through virgin snow is like a vivid dream that you don't want to end. Above image, in the middle of nowhere at 4400M (14435 ft) using a full frame DSLR on DX mode.
Spotting and tracking snow leopards by yourself without local guides is at your own risk. Getting too close to the edge of gorge ravines, cliff faces, and rivers during winter will avoid an early death. There will be no one around to assist in the hour of need, including emergency cell phone coverage - if any. The Spiti valley wildlife sanctuary guidelines should be followed, and especially when outside the perimeter of Kibber. The image above shows the difference of capturing snow leopards (or any other wildlife) at the correct angle compared to extreme cliff top angles. Imagine, this snow leopard was captured in the 2020s using a 1986 Nikkor 800 5.6 AIS manual focus lens attached to a 12MP D3S body. Good reliable photo gear no matter how old it is works anywhere - Got It?
Below, handling and using bulky camera gear in subzero temps is something everyone should experience. It makes any image capture more appreciated. This highland Himalayan region during midwinter is certainly not for the lame or weak. Staying outdoors from sunup to sundown in extreme cold conditions, including the high elevation level affects people differently who aren't accustomed to extreme environments. I returned to this below location twice, and had captured this shot in the late afternoon in minus -17C degrees. I had used an 800mm lens, and managed to grab these guys heading towards a cliff edge hideout at a distance of approximately 400+ meters.
It is said that memories are worth more than future ambitions, this image capture is one of them.
Tracking and spotting snow leopards can be done without guides and spotters if you know basic hunting skills.
Finding places to park spotting and photographing snow leopards and other wildlife isn't like African safaris. During midwinter, roads become narrow channels, because of snow buildup. There's also no safety barriers. Other traffic requires enough space to squeeze past. Stopping randomly at locations where other vehicles can easily see vehicles parked, and are able to drive past are standard rules that locals follow up here in Spiti.
Mid Winter Himalaya highlands — no guides, no fancy lodging, no spotters, no tourist groups — total freedom.
Above, this snow leopard appears to have been wading on the same track several times. It suggests this snow leopard was camping by nearby cliff terraces that are impossible to reach. This shot was taken in late afternoon with a mean subzero temp of minis -16C. On many occasions, only distant images of snow leopards can be captured with whatever photo gear is available at the time. My advice, is to have an "on the go ready lens with at least 600mm reaching power. Snow leopards can move quickly in and out of range, and completely disappear in a matter of seconds. Returning to the same locations the following day may or may not have positive results.
Driving around finding the right location in subzero temps spotting and photographing snow leopards can be a testing experience for some. Even with plenty of fresh wildlife snow tracks like above doesn't necessarily guarantee sightings of snow leopards. It's all about timing, patience and how much daylight is left. Returning to the same locations that have fresh snow leopard tracks is advisable. The above image shows fresh fox, blue sheep and snow leopard tracks. The first thing to scout for are circling eagles and vultures and the visible remains of killed wildlife.
These snow leopards above were watching me as much as I was watching them - Best checkmate ever.
Watching and photographing snow leopards wading slowly across a blanket of snow is hard to beat.
Photographing snow leopards during midwinter capturing images like above requires patience, a lot of patience, stamina, and most of all reliable photo gear no matter the brand name. As you can see, even my classic 35 year old Nikkor 800 5.6 AIS lens and 12MP D3S body managed to get some great shots. Ironically, in recent years, I've bumped into other street photographers who smirk sideways questioning why I still use what they assume is outdated paperweight photo gear. Funny that, I never spotted any of these type of photographers up here in extreme subzero conditions using their stuff.
All the above locations are good locations for spotting snow leopards during midwinter — not just the Kibber region! Those into group travel tours who can't be bothered self-tracking and spotting snow leopards on their own usually end up in Kibber. It's up to the individual whether they want to pay over-excessive rates via travel agencies, or go it alone. I grabbed a local driver that was familiar with the terrain, and succeeded self-tracking, self-spotting, and photographing snow leopards outside the Chicham-Kibber region. This also avoids paying unneeded Mafia Tax when taking roadside snaps, or when setting up camera gear along the Chichim Kibber road route!
Above, the perfect early morning, late afternoon setting and location spotting snow leopards. If blue sheep are seen grazing in areas like this, the chances of capturing images of snow leopards, is almost guaranteed. It may take up to five visits (5 days), or even longer at any given location, but then, what's the rush, and who cares how long it takes? Big cats, blue sheep, Ibex, and other four legged animals need water. It's all about location and timing. Temperature at the time the above snap was taken, minus -22C, excluding windchill factor.
Mother and cub snow Leopards captured from 400+ meters in late afternoon sunlight @4400M
My camera gear, is actually basic dinosaur stuff compared to what is available on the market in the 2020s. Everything I use still works and operates fine. For example, the Nikon 800 5.6 AIS lens (1986-05) has proven its reliability operating effortlessly for weeks on end in extreme insane heat @+51C/124F, and in subzero temps down to -25C/-13F. Only 3004 of these lenses were produced by Nikon.
Capturing moon shots at sea level is more than simple enough, but grabbing lunar snaps @3800 meters and above in subzero minus -25C (-13F) will test a person's patience and photo gear. Cold has no meaning until experiencing extreme bone biting chills in high altitudes.
Don't expect comfy travel to Spiti Valley during the midwinter period. Also don't expect cozy accommodation either. Most hotels in Kaza are shut down through midwinter. In January, there are almost no tourists in the region — so good! Extreme subzero temps isn't appealing for those looking for exotic blissfulness. This make Spiti Valley the perfect isolated high altitude wilderness location on the planet. This will soon change when an up coming airport is completed. So, those wanting to experience what extreme really feels like? A midwinter overland journey to Spiti Valley is recommended, before it becomes just another winter tourist destination of endless snap happy selfie lovers.
Extreme subzero temps, frozen water supplies, power load shedding, minimal transportation, minimal accommodation.
The WC wash room shows how cold it gets in Kaza. Frozen iced up walls, manual bucket toilet flushes and manual bucket body washes is reality. Those looking for extreme overland travel, and wanting to actually experience staying in extreme subzero temps — look no further. Spiti Valley from December to January will freely reward both of these options hands down.
Female road crew manually braking ice with pickaxes @ 4000 meters altitude in subzero minus -14C temps. Images like above could easily win photo competitions because of its location and substance. I prefer having images like this done in large canvas hanging on the wall together with other canvas images.
Summer Season - Manali Kaza Route
Overland transit from Manali to Kaza during the dry season beginning May thru October, time duration approx 10-12 hours. Below, think about it, I'm over 60, and still clocking up overland travel mileage offshore, and still remain offshore. Since 1978, and certainly from 82 onward, I've surpassed what most, including myself could have ever imagined crossing through countries and continents through the decades. Below, the difference in seasons in the Himalayan highlands is black & white - Midwinter Rating 10/10
Location snap using the 5.5kg 800 5.6 ED lens on a previous visit to this region during the dry season. This overland journey clocked up over 5000km using buses, trains, vans, rickshaws and private vehicles. During the dry season, reaching Kaza is via Manali, still a great rough rugged dirt track from the Leh turnoff. This route is closed through the winter season (November-April). Below, many flight babies rave about where they've been offshore — by flying of how many countries they've been too. Get real, I've been doing solo overland journeys crossing countries and entire continents since 1982.
