INDIA - Solo Overland Travel & Transit
"If you like endless street photography - India is for you"
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India, a country packed with endless diversity for the visitor. No other country on the planet can match what India has to offer. There's so much to see and explore, that it would take years to cover the entire country. Festivals and cultural events are spread far and wide throughout the year.
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Random Street Photography
Arriving into India just for two weeks is a no brainer. Traveling through India without camera gear is definitely a no brainer. One requires ample travel time i.e. three to six months, and at least a quality point and shoot or even better, full frame DSLR photo gear to capture satisfying images.
We all have our own personal taste, vision and technique to capture amazing street snaps of total strangers that have appealing reasons in the first place to capture them. India certainly has an endless amount of opportunity to do this with unlimited options to randomly photograph locals without fuss or bother. Personally, I've always enjoyed taking random street captures of anyone that catches the corner of my eye who looks vibrant within their environment. There are endless opportunities throughout India of capturing rewarding images of subjects. All it takes is positive interaction.
Random street photography is virtually limitless without boundaries in India. In general, capturing portraits of locals will usually take only a small amount of interaction time. Using basic street rules of respect and tolerance will yield rewarding images of locals through the country. Depending on taste, it doesn't really matter if street portraits are captured in colour or black and white, strong facial expressions and composure remains the same. Below, composition of street portraits haven't changed one bit. (1986/2018)
Street images like these are easily found within smaller townships through India. Strolling around side streets off any main road will usually open up to all types of residential dwellings. It's here where one can find locals in different kinds of ambient background settings. These images were captured using prime lenses without having the need of using flash. Depending on a subject's position, a small amount of interaction maybe required to move subjects towards whatever available light source is present.
Nothing is more rewarding than capturing random street portraits of locals on a solo overland journey from eastern India through to the Pakistan border. Finding people to photograph can materialise directly on the street, in a market, a shop, or within a residential area. It comes down to how much motivation there is to find the subjects one is looking for. All my random street portraits are taken without using flash, just whatever ambient light there is to work with. I don't use smart phone cameras, or point and shoots because of the disappointment of the end result. Any DSLR body brand with a quality lens works every time without fail. Image captures through this page are only a small portion from thousands of random street snaps taken in India using the following classic photo-gear, which is still being used today because of optic quality and reliability. Nikon D3, D3S, D800 bodies, AF-28mm f/1.4D, 50mm f/1.4 AF-85mm f/1.4D, 105mm f/1.8 AIS, AFS 14-24mm f/2.8, AFS200-400mm f/4 VRII, 800mm f/5.6 AIS (zero usage of junkie smart phone cameras).
A quick comparison between digital and 35mm roll film street portraits in India spanning more than three and half decades between captures. The above subject was taken with a Nikon DSLR D3 12MP. The below subject was taken during the eighties, captured with SLR manual focus Nikon gear. Even though the below image is low res only, it still holds its original ambience. I still travel using a few classic Nikon manual focus lenses in 2021. If roll film was cheap and readily available, I wouldn't hesitate using a Mamiya RZ67 medium format camera for portraiture street snaps.
Solo Travel India - Don't Think Twice - Do it!
India will definitely absorb your time, including your patience. Don't expect any kudo points as a visitor to India in regards to hotel and travel bookings. More Indians travel through their own country more than ever. New hotels have sprung up all over the place to accommodate Indians from interstate. Train bookings must be done well in advance, and is certainly recommended and a necessity when major holidays begin throughout the country. This also includes luxury buses which are already been pre-booked months in advance.
Hiring vehicles with or without a driver is an alternative, but it isn't cheap. Hiring motorbikes to get around is trendy, and for those on long term visas it's more logical to purchase used Royal Enfields which can be resold or kept in storage until re-visiting India.
Issued Indian six month visas begin count-down from the date of issue. Also, some six month visas that are issued are split visas, meaning that after 89 days one must leave India to Nepal or Bangladesh for 24 hrs, and then re-enter again to continue the remaining 90 days. Always depart India on time, at least day or two before visas expire. Many visitors who have ignored the 90/90 split visa regulation have ended up missing their flight out of India because of ignoring this procedure. Airport immigration will deny boarding, or exiting an overland border, and usually require an official paper clearance which takes a day to get. This may also cause issues when applying for future visas to India. What's what in the Transit Baggage page covers the basic necessities of different items that have a proven track record with my own approval rating. On most long-term overland travel journey there's always the dilemma of deciding what photo gear to carry in transit. The Photo-Gear page covers a variety of new and classic Nikon equipment, and different accessories. Visa Information, Ezilon Indian map
Are you looking for peace and quiet well away from social media, selfie addicts, and over-spill from other foreign tourists like in Nepal? Heading up to the Himalayan highlands in India still has plenty of open spaces from the craziness seen else where. During the summer months or through mid-winter, Spiti Valley is the great escape. Another isolated destination is Arunachal Pradesh, situated north of Assam state. Both areas have their own diverse cultural and heritage stepped back in time. Hiking through serene wilderness spotting wildlife habitat can't get better.
Transport getting there, is by shared vans or with public bush-buses. Renting, and driving your own 4x4 can also be done. Only those with previous driving experience on high altitude dirt tracks covered in snow (during winter) should consider doing this. During the summer season, renting an MC (Royal Enfield) has become fashion for a full on road trip experience that certainly won't disappoint. Foreigners require inline-permits transiting on the Shimla-Kaza route. Permits are also required to travel in unrestricted areas in Arunachal Pradesh. Having plenty of time on your hands visiting these regions is necessary due to their isolation.
Views of Key Gompa from any angle are mind-blowing. Snow begins to fall through the region as early as November. Sub-zero temps through mid-winter can easily reach minus -35C during the night. The Spiti Valley region becomes totally isolated during winter with only a very small trickle of visitors. At the moment there is still no airport and only one road track reaching Kaza from October to May.
Reaching Spiti valley in midwinter is truly a rugged overland journey on one of the most dangerous road routes on the planet. There's only one road route in and out during winter. Those who are looking for extreme highland wilderness won't be disappointed. For over a month, I didn't see or meet another foreigner throughout the region. Only a few Indian wildlife photographers at Chicham gorge capturing shots of a sleepy laid back snow leopard. I ended up doing my own snow leopard scouting elsewhere in higher elevations and found them.
Permits are required for non-Indian nationals traveling on the Rekong Peo - Kaza route. Permits are issued in Rekong Peo.
Below, the reward of capturing snow leopards in the wilderness mounted on the wall in canvas. This large 135cm x 95cm canvas was recently gifted in early 2022. It will certainly create all types of different conversation for those who also enjoy capturing wildlife images within rugged environments. Distance 400+ meters, Nikkor 800mm ED-IF 5.6 AIS, D3S 12 MP body, 4400 meters, minus -17C
Solo Travel Photography - India
A regret many make today, especially among the millennial generation onwards, is the lack of using basic camera gear, and ignoring what's in front of them. Most never miss the chance grabbing selfies and posting them ASP to social media. Any journey through India, one quickly realises the country is full of wetland habitats. Arriving to these locations only using cell cameras to grab images is a personal choice, but will become disappointing. Before any long-term offshore travel, leaving home base with at least a good point and shoot, or a semi-pro DSLR is well worth considering. At least think about it by matching and researching your interests past your own personal boundaries.
Arriving into India without any photo gear is definitely a no-brainer! Those ignoring this will become very disappointed within a relatively short time period. Those relying on just using smart phone cameras will also become quickly frustrated. Traveling through India using some form of camera gear is far more rewarding that what many assume today is not required - Wrong! DSLR camera lenses will out perform any brand cell camera for still captures hands down. I personally can vouch for this testing more than five different smart phone cameras. They were all disappointing in one way or another with sharpness, clarity, grain, handling and drop, and lack quick settings etc. Smart phone cameras are good for video, time lapse, selfie snaps, and the odd street or landscape image. Smart phone cameras are useless tools when it comes to full-on pushing shoving bustling markets, distant wildlife, night and astro, and quick action shots. At the end of the day, most out there will have to decide before any offshore travel the choice of using smart phone camera junk, or DSLR or digital with a few lenses. One just needs to ask anyone who's been to India a few times, or those who have traveled through other continents for good advice on photo gear.
Below, a Sadhu huddled together with dogs enjoying the warmth of an open fire during the winter months.
Overland To India - Transit Map
As of March 2019, e-tourists and e-business visas can be issued with upto one-year validity. Citizens from USA, Canada, and Japan can stay continuously for 180 days at a time. Other nationals who qualify for the e-visa also receive 12 months and can remain continuously up to 90 days maximum. Indian missions having bio-metric enrolment facilities have started issuing 5-year long-term tourist and business visas. The remaining missions will provide this facility in due course.Reaching India overland can be done a few ways although six month Indian visas that are issued begin their countdown on the day they are issued. Embassy and consular issued visas will mean any overland route to India will reduced the amount of stay if an Indian visa had been issued well in advance. It's virtually impossible to extend any tourist visa. All land borders are open in both directions from Myanmar, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Pakistan. Sporadic rare border closures may occur at the Myanmar crossings which may or may not be open due to insurgency. Burmese permits to cross into India are no longer required. Getting across or to Pakistan is by train or the land border crossing at Wagah-Atari.
Depending on nationality, an Indian visa can be issued from the Indian High Commission in Islamabad. Paperwork and online applications must be presented without any flaws including the correct sized photos. The choices of land border crossings between Nepal and Bangladesh to India are many without complications. Riding an Indian registered motorbike or car in to Nepal isn't cheap, the 500 Nepali rupee fee per day is a ripoff. Indian six month visas can still be obtained at the Indian Consulate in Chittagong. The Indian Embassy in Nepal do issue six month visas if it's a first time visit to India. Foreigners who have already been issued six month visas will find it very difficult to receive another six month visa, and will usually end up receiving either a three or one month visa. This is solely at the discretion of Embassy staff officials when submitting a visa request whether it's on a Monday or a Friday. The Indian Consulate in Kandy, Sri Lanka have issued six month visas with passports containing used six month Indian visas without issues, but this may change in the future with new Consular staff.
As of March 2021, all foreigner visitors including OCI card holders require PAP permits in advance (Protected Area Permit), and now must fly into certain restricted zones i.e. Nagaland, Manipur, Mizoram, Arunachal Pradesh. Overland travel crossing into eastern states is now prohibited.
The options getting around India overland are many, with train and bus being the usual modes of transportation. Highland travel reaching the edges of isolation along the Himalaya is with local bush-buses, commuter vans or 4x4. Purchasing or renting your own vehicle, or MC (Royal Enfield) is the ultimate way to go - recommended for long duration journeys of 6 months to a year.
Arrival - Forbidden Items
Prohibited Into India - Ammo - Certain Camera Drones - Direct Satellite Handsets
Using any type of camera drone is forbidden in India unless an official permit request is granted by the police, the local administration and from the ministry of aviation. The type of drone, and location coordinates will also be required before any permit is issued. Camera drones may not be used at night if a permit is granted to use one. Direct satellite telephone services are not permitted in India. Handsets of Thuraya, Irridium and other such satellite operators are prohibited. As a warning - those visiting India who are found to be in possession of any of these sets mentioned above will be automatically seized at the port of entry, and the holder could be prosecuted under Section 6 of Indian Wireless Act and Section 20 of Indian Telegraph Act. Large quantities of gold must be declared upon arrival, Indian customs are very thorough at International airport entries through the country.
Cross-border and internal drug busts of cocaine, heroin, meth and marijuana happens frequently throughout all states in India. International air/land border customs into India are thorough. The clampdown of illegal drugs - including marijuana in India has further tightened. Foreigners contemplating to smuggle or carry any type of illegal narcotics - soft or hard will automatically be arrested and charged if caught. Below links of local drug busts.
Heroin bust - Mizoram Heroin bust - Himachal Marijuana bust - Telangana Marijuana bust - Tripura Marijuana bust - Odisha Marijuana bust - Pune Marijuana bust - North Bengal Heroin Marijuana bust - Haryana Meth bust - Delhi Meth Heroin bust - Punjab Cocaine bust - Delhi
Other Warnings
Indians do enjoy drinking alcoholic beverages and usually follow a set of guide lines with the majority of Indians knowing the limits when intoxicated in public zones. Crossing the line touching or molesting woman in public places is a definite no brainer that can result in severe punishment. In November 2019, a 35 year old Australian male tourist found out the hard way, who was heavily intoxicated touching local woman. He was warned to stop, but continued and ended up being tied and roped and severely beaten. If you want to embarrass yourself - Do it in your own country! It only takes one western foreigner disgracing their entire nation because of their stupidity and arrogance!
Western exchange students, foreign NGOs, and tourists should avoid joining in all types of Anti-government protests throughout India. Deportation is immediate, including black bans reentering India for those ignoring the rules.
Chillum & Bhang
The grey area of cannabis smoking in India is complexed. Even though it's illegal under the law to cultivate cannabis (Bhang), it still remains readily available through the country. Bhang shops are seen in various states openly selling cannabis in religious towns and cities. Ganja has been used for centuries in India, and considered a holy herb used for religious purposes. For decades, since the 1960's hippie era, foreigners have flocked to India sampling all types of ganja, hashish, bhang lassi, and hemp cakes. Of late, there has been rumours of clamping down of openly selling ganja based products by some state governments. How this will pan out or be controlled nobody knows, but in the meantime, bhang will certainly be around as it always has been within easy reach for those who use it daily for spiritual purposes.
Above, a sadhu having a morning fix of bhang. Below, ganja weed is spread far and wide throughout India. Some weed is even used as barrier boundaries by locals with small vegetable field crops. It will eventually die off in the cold season, and then re-sprout again the following year. Authorities know weed grows rampant in certain regions, and ignore wild weed growth unless it's being cultivated, processed and smuggled elsewhere for profit. Legal weed India
Photography - Follow The Rules Or Suffer!
Every country has different rules and regulations. India has a book load of them, with some regulations catching out foreign visitors, because of their own stupidity. I took this snap of a westerner positioned in elevation grabbing images on Howrah bridge which is illegal. Some foreigners who have been caught taking photos in prohibited areas have either been thoroughly interrogated, screamed at, fined, or in some instances have had their camera's confiscated.
This particular bridge - situated in Kolkata has clear visible signage every 30+ metres saying 'Strictly No Photography". Howrah bridge now has updated camera surveillance. It's up to the visitor to abide by warning signs. Some completely ignore warning signage, like this tourist in the above image, and prefers to take the risk of being caught and punished.
Photography is also forbidden in all major railway stations, sensitive airport perimeters, military, navy and airforce bases, sensitive border regions (including bridges) throughout the country. Taking images of bridges at any angle off-bridges isn't a problem in none sensitive zones. Sensitive zones include the entire Indo-China border & Pakistan-frontier.
Today, I wouldn't even think to stroll on Howrah bridge capturing images like above unless permission is granted to do so. Camera surveillance with endless amounts of warning signs are visibly seen on both sides of this historical bridge. Back in the 80's, the rules were more relaxed and not enforced. Indian street police do come down hard on their own citizens breaking the law, so the best advice for foreigners is to also follow the law.
Two Must-Haves India
Shaft bolts are still used in many hotels throughout India. Using your own personal heavy duty lock will guarantee baggage and belongings won't disappear from rooms. Baggage during train journeys should be hidden out of sight. A simple solution to hang or dry out clothes and washing on the go is with hiking bootlaces tied together across a room.
Electrolyte Fix
There's nothing worse than feeling totally drained, which happens to many foreigners visiting India. The first signs and symptoms are usually fatigue and lethargy. One of many Oral Rehydration salts that can be purchased through the country, is Electrobion shown above. One sachet mixed with a liter of water and guzzled down in one hit will take almost immediate effect. Traveling with a few extra sachets is recommended through the summer months down in the tropical lowlands where 40C+ temps is normal.
On The Go - Indian Railways
Super express trains are commonly used for daily transit journeys covering approximately 200-300 Km. These trains have the option of luxury 2+2 executive class with fully adjustable reclining seats, spacey leg room, ample overhead baggage space, wide frame viewing windows, and freezing AC.
Indian railways has you covered in any direction chosen covering over 115,000 kilometres. The Vivek Express from Dibrugarh to Kanyakumari is still the longest non-stop train journey in India covering 4,235 kilometres with 80 scheduled stops, and taking a total of 80 hours (3.3 days). Early bookings are necessary for a 2nd class 2 tier AC sleeper birth. For more privacy a 1st class sleeper will be double the price. Those running on tight budgets across the country have the choice of using the 3 tier non AC sleeper class which will certainly give any foreigner the feel and touch of the Indian rush. Although train fares have risen considerably in the last two years, it still remains the cheapest mode of transport in the country.
Train classes vary differently with comfort and cost: 1st class AC 2 Tier, 2nd class AC 2 & 3 Tier, Non AC 3 Tier or seat.
Sorry guys, you won't be able to put the below type of overland travel journey on your "Bucket List". Coal powered steam trains were in full swing during the 80's throughout India. A rarely seen image today that was captured in transit on board another steamer during a 2nd visit to India in the 1980s. The only heritage steamers left running, which can be heavily booked during the winter season is the Toy Train from Darjeeling to Ghum, and the Fairy Express from Delhi to Alwar.
Motor Cycle Across India
Got plenty of time on your hands? Are you looking for the maximum freedom possible through India? Purchasing your own Royal Enfield is the ultimate choice for travelling throughout India. One can either rent on a weekly or monthly rate, but purchasing your own MC isn't hard to do. This will suit those with long duration multiple entry visas who have endless amounts of time to slowly travel across India at their own pace.
Most cities and towns through the country have used Royal Enfields for sale. Price will depend on the year and condition of any MC and how much the seller is willing to let it go for. Shopping around will normally give the option of a few different models within a price ranging from 50K - 150K Indian rupees. Older kick start models are cheaper. Parts supply isn't an issue no-matter where one rides in India. One can leave bikes in storage and reuse them on future road trips or sell it to another foreigner or an MC shop.
A valid international driver's license with an original drivers license is required in India. It's now compulsory to request an Indian drivers license and medical health check. Road insurance isn't obligatory.
Road stops through India are numerous, like this Himalayan chill out where bikers stop for hot chai and snacks en-route to Leh.
Street Interaction Works!
If you're into street photography like I am, and enjoy interacting with total strangers, the streets of India will give anyone that option hands down, all day, non-stop till you're worn out! Having an open friendly attitude, including the art of patience, good humour, together with basic skills to interact will certainly be rewarding for those traveling throughout the country. Image captured using a Nikon 12 MP D3 & AF 28mm f/1.4D lens.
Street Photographer's Paradise
It doesn't matter where you come from, India will eventually wear you out in one way or another. It can be the hustle and bustle, the erratic street chaos, the non-stop horn honking, the heat, the push and shove, the endless streets of traffic, the noise, the dust, the glares and stares, the constant daytime rush is untameable, feel it, enjoy it - It's India.
Don't come to India traveling without a camera - smart phone cameras are not cameras - Got it?
A large part of the journey through India is capturing random street snaps of locals - not dreaded selfies!
Tribal children from the interior region of northern Nagaland. Getting to this district is a mission in itself, which takes four days of train, bus, truck and jeep transit from Kolkata. Due to the sensitivity of Nagaland state, all foreigners need to register on arrival at the local police station in Kohima, and also further north in Mon township. Both Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh contain their own tribal and community groups.
Local highland farmers from the mountainous regions of Himachal Pradesh graze their stock within the most rugged regions of the state during the summer months.
Every time one ventures out on the streets and main avenues, the chances of capturing random street snaps of locals magnifies greatly. Leaving each morning strolling casually around for kilometres becomes addictive.
Festivals across India are plentiful and will wear most out after 3-4 days of full-on activity. They are excellent venues with endless amounts of pilgrims to photograph and video. Accommodation is usually fully booked out well in advance. Having your own tent, or sleeping under the stars on a mat are optional. Going with a few others will help rotate one person watching over belongings at locations.
Konyak Naga Villages - Mon District
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If you're looking for a taste of adventure in tribal territory, look no further than the border region of northern Nagaland. The Hornbill festival held each year outside Kohima is well known among locals and foreigners. Heading further north to Mon district will blow your mind. Transport north to Mon is basic and rough. Dirt road tracks make the transit journey something to remember for years. Mon district has ample villages well worth visiting to keep anyone busy for a month or more. It's customary to give tribal leaders at each village visit complementary gifts like tea or coffee. This gives the opportunity to capture Naga portraits without issues. Interaction plays an important role in this region.
Konyak Nagas in general stick to themselves within their own village communities. It's common at day break to spot a group of young Nagas with flintlock rifles on wild game hunts. One can also be lucky enough to share the company with the last generation of Konyak headhunters, who still have their distinctive full facial tattoos. Be prepared to be invited into dwellings sipping on hot tea with plenty of chit chat. Leaving Mon district is via the Sonari border with Assam. Registration is required by all nationals with police on arrival and departure in the Mon district region.
Random Street Portraits - No Problem
There's endless amounts of random street portraiture throughout India. One only needs to walk in and around any village or city to find them. The chances of capturing great looking subjects everyday is virtually guaranteed. For example, the image above was taken after a few minutes of polite interacting and chit chat. This woman even invited me into her dwelling for chai and snacks.
Indians with coloured eyes can be spotted on the street in a flash. The majority of the population of India have brown eyes, but if you're lucky, there's always a chance of coming across a local with brilliant emerald, or hazel coloured eyes. Two great locations that have locals with coloured eyes are the states of Rajasthan and Bihar. Remote tribal villages in these states are known for some families to have radiant coloured eyes.
The random street portrait above was taken in West Bengal, and captured with a classic Nikon 800mm f/5.6 AIS manual focus lens (1986-05) attached to a D3 body (2007-2011). The image capture shows that you don't need the latest photo gear or to have large amounts of megapixels to produce a good image.
Random street capture, a colourful Bihari woman with hazel coloured eyes. A small amount of interaction time with the subject produced this image. I personally use good old DSLR full frame prime lenses to get my shots. If you're happy with whatever camera gear you're using - why change if it produces the shots?
The ease of street photography in India is partially due to the large extent of social media sharing in the country. Almost every Indian has a cell phone and are accustomed like anywhere else on the planet to selfie addiction. Indians have outward extraverted personalities which makes it even easier to photograph them. Breaking the shyness into bursts of laughter or to capture a serious look will depend on the amount of interaction.
Taking random street portraits can be captured with almost anything that clicks, although using DSLR prime lenses is still the king of optics no matter the brand i.e. Nikon, Canon, Sony, Fuji, Mamiya etc.
Never let a closeup street portrait go to waste if it's unique, the above image was captured using a 28mm prime lens.
Below, a portrait of a local from Tamil Nadu. A quick definition of trance state is when one loses one's body consciousness, and enters into the world of deep absorption into one's subconscious mind.
Water Shots - Anywhere Anytime
In India wherever there's water - there's plenty of action and activity. From street hand pumps and rivers to any coastal shoreline, Indians from all ethnic groups have their own individual needs drawing them to water sources. The best time for water activity is through the summer months in the early morning or late afternoons.
When pre-monsoon heat becomes unbearable, a running water supply is where locals grab a quick soak out too cool off.
Splash capture into the Ganga during pre-monsoon heat. Images like these can easily be captured down at most ghats.
Locals bathing and washing along the shoreline is witnessed along most coastal regions of India. Small clustered fishing village communities are plentiful and good locations to photograph local lifestyles and culture. There's nothing better than having an ocean soak off during the pre-monsoon season. It's normal for temperatures to soar well into the high forties before the rains arrive.
Capturing great images of Sadhus washing is simple enough, just head on down to any public Ghat to find them. The image above was captured with a classic Nikon D3S 12 megapixel body and AF 28mm f/1.4D lens @ f/5, 1/2000 sec, ISO 200.
The above image was captured by chance down a side street. A local decided to take a shower under a water tank truck filling station outlet. In 2021, some street photographers laugh at others using old 12MP DSLR cameras. The image suggests that it really doesn't matter what camera body the image was captured with, but what quality lens was used - Got It? And like the majority of images through this website, they are only low res uploads. Below, silhouette captures will keep any street photographer busy through India.
Coastal Shoreline
Above, a typical image of a fishing family clan crowding around net catches of assorted fish along the Indian ocean coastline. The simplicity of grabbing snaps along the Indian coastlines can't get easier with the abundance of thousands of small fishing communities scattered along it. Early morning or late afternoon are the best times to capture local fishermen returning with boat loads of fish. Some catches are sorted directly on beaches.
Often, many ask me what's my favourite country for photography. Without doubt, India is right up there for many reasons.
1: Each day is completely different to the next. 2: Finding locals and subject matter to photograph is endless. 3: Interaction levels with locals is relatively simple. 4: Urban street photography is rewarding. 5: Rural lowlands of India are diverse as it gets. 6: Festivals abound throughout the year. 7: Wildlife and nature is overflowing. 8: Highland mountain landscape is mind blowing. 9: Easy access to regions @4000 metres altitude during winter. 10: Ample tribal areas within the corners of the country. 11: Transportation still hasn't lost its chaotic charm. 12: Indians in general enjoy being photographed. 13: Food street markets are photographically entertaining. 14: Coastline activity has its own ambience.
Highland Wilderness
When it becomes boiling hot down on the lowlands, any of the mountainous regions nestled up along the Himalaya are perfect retreats to cool off, hike, trek, and chill for a few months. Leh, Manali, Darjeeling, and Gangtok are just a few out of numerous mountainous locations worth visiting.
Many different types of landscape topography formations can be seen throughout India. Some of the most spectacular formations are within the high altitude regions of Ladakh and Spiti valley. The best time to travel and transit through these areas is before, or after the winter months have finished. Road closures commence as early as October, and remain closed until April. Reaching Spiti valley during winter is via the Shimla-Rampur-Rekong Peo-Tabo route. Road closures during mid-winter are normal due to snow drift, rock fall and avalanches.
Above, the escape to rugged barren highland landscape in Himachal Pradesh. Isolated villages, and monasteries are easily visible nestled through valley regions along mountain passes. One certainly needs time and patience to hike, trek, and absorb the serenity and beauty of this wilderness plateau through the summer months.
Waking up to icy frosted windows becomes reality in the Indian Himalaya. Most isolated towns above 3800 metres are with limited or no power during midwinter.
Indian highland wilderness is never too far from the sweltering plains below. The choices of free camping and hiking where one wishes is spread through high altitude states and provinces. The chances of spotting snow leopards is still possible within regions of Kashmir, Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh and Sikkim. Permits and entry fees are usually required to camp within national parks with varying fees from state to state.
Views of the Himalayan chain from Darjeeling and Gangtok are spectacular with Kanchenjunga easily recognised from its 8586 elevation. When the heat becomes unbearable through the pre-moonsoon season, many retreat up to Darjeeling to cool off. Sikkim state is also close-by with road transport from either Darjeeling or New Jalpaiguri (NJP) direct to Gangtok.
Above, midwinter sunrise of Kanchenjunga. All foreign nationals will require permits to visit Sikkim, which is easily obtained in Kolkata, Darjeeling or at the Sikkim West Bengal crossing.
Passing through wild rugged high altitude landscape changes dramatically from season too season. One of the most spectacular overland road trips with endless panoramic views is to Kaza during peak midwinter. Snow clad mountains, frozen up river beds, and cliff-top icicles en-route are part and package traveling to Kaza. January is recommended to feel the full bite of winter's wrath in Spiti Valley with average day temps at -10C, and falling to -35C during the night. Freezing sub-zero temperatures and heavy snow fall turns Kaza into a ghost town during December and January. The majority of hotels, and other accommodation are closed for business due to frozen water pipes and random power-cuts. On the last winter visit to Kaza, room temperatures without heating were recorded @ -9C during the day. Layered thermo clothing is essential, including back-up battery supplies for photo gear.
Below, freezing sub-zero temperatures, heavy snow fall turns Kaza into a ghost town during December and January. The majority of hotels, and other accommodation are closed for business due to frozen water pipes and random power-cuts. On the last winter visit to Kaza, room temperatures without heating were recorded -9C during daytime. Layered thermo clothing is essential, including back-up battery supplies for photo-gear.
Sky Captures - India
India has an abundance of different regions to capture the night sky. The mountainous regions of West Bengal, Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, and the desert environs in Gujarat are just a few examples that have open spaces with clear open views for astro snaps of the Milky Way rising and moving across the night skyline. A tripod with a camera using the delay timer settings is required for hands free captures avoiding vibration. Below image, captured using a manual focus Nikon 800mm f/5.6 ED-IF AIS lens mounted to a D3S body.
Sunrise Sunsets - India
It's certainly not difficult capturing sunsets in India. Just head on out the door an hour before the sun disappears below the horizon. Depending on location i.e. coastal, urban sprawl, or rural, the sun's visibility will display different colours due to dust, pollution and atmospheric haze. These images were captured in different regions through the country.
Indian sunsets are almost hypnotising. These images were captured using DSLR photo gear - not junky phone cameras.
Traveling with some form of photo gear, no matter the brand, through India is required to capture satisfactory images. One doesn't go fishing, hiking or hunting with the wrong stuff. Some up market point & shoots will do the job, although DSLR camera gear will get the shots every time. Above, DSLR full frame 800mm prime lens.
Waking up just before daylight to visualise picturesque dawns like above depends on the density of cloud cover. Within under a minute this colourful view completely vanished and never reappeared again while staying at the same location for two more weeks. As the saying goes - never miss an opportunity to get the shot.
Above, a handheld sunset snap compared to the below sunrise image that was captured using a tripod.
Street & Ghat Snaps
Street photography through India requires more than just using smart phone cameras. Minimum required for 3-6 months travel is a quality digital point & shoot, 4/3, or even better, a reliable DSLR camera with a few lenses.
On recent journeys through India, I've observed other tourists photographing Indians and found one common thing with most of them. Foreigners use zoom lenses to capture their snaps keeping their distance well away from subjects. This is fine in certain situations. Personally, I do the complete opposite when subjects look intriguing. I will normally get up as close as possible using fixed focal prime lenses using positive interaction with subjects.
The above image looks as if was taken relatively close-up. It was captured from 50+ metres using a Nikon AFS 200-400mm f/4 G VRII @400mm on full frame mounted on a tripod. It was re-cropped to 1/6th of its original size.
Capturing images of locals down at washing ghats using lenses with reach without disturbing subjects is what most do. With a little positive interaction, one can capture single or group subjects if the timing is right.
Street photographers use their own technique how to grab the attention of subjects to look in the right direction.
There's no excuse capturing random street and ghat portraits, the only requirements are basic interaction skills.
Wildlife - India
Some form of photo-gear is required in all wildlife parks and sanctuaries in India if you're wanting satisfying image captures. Most wildlife spotted are usually at long distance which can be normally captured using a tele, or a zoom lens of 200-400mm. Smaller bird parks through the migratory season like the Kulick bird sanctuary will get you very close to open bill storks hatching their eggs. Larger parks use their own open air transport trucks, which may or may not give good results on any particular day. Returning to the same location may be rewarding spotting bengal tigers, or leopards close-by napping up trees. At the end of the day it's timing and luck that counts. Don't expect smart phone cameras to give satisfactory images, using DSLR photo gear works every time.
Grabbing snap captures like the above image is done by using long reach prime lenses. Getting up close to these guys is difficult on the best of days, including capturing straight directional shots without angles. This image was taken with an 800mm f/5.6 ED-IF AI-S - 5.5kg manual focus lens mounted on a 12 megapixel D3 body using DX crop mode.
Silhouette wildlife snaps are cool. They can easily be captured if there's enough time to position or reposition the sun behind the subject, but depending on the amount of light, a tripod may be necessary to eliminate shake and blur. Image - an open bill stork, eastern India
Getting close-up images of large carnivores usually requires time and patience, but wherever there's a carcass, or a feeding ground is where eagles and vultures gather and feast together. Both captures above were taken at a distance without disturbing them, by using a Nikon 800mm f/5.6 manual focus lens mounted to a tripod. The enjoyment of watching and photographing birds of prey in the wild is possible in northern India during winter.
Spotting Bengal Tigers in national parks will depend on location and movement of these big cats on the actually day of entering a park. Local park guides are usually familiar where tigers are situated, but there's no guarantee to get up close, unless tigers are near road sides or at watering holes. One can be fortunate enough to spot a few big cats through the day at any of the major wildlife parks that have them. A second or even third visit to the same park may be required to capture reasonable close-up snaps like the above.
Still a classic Nikon lens user, images captured with a Nikkor 800mm f/5.6 ED-IF AI-S. Most photographers today prefer autofocus lenses, and wouldn't dare carry such a long heavy lens through India. Actually, the 800mm 5.5kg lens has criss-crossed India into Nepal and Bangladesh using overland transport several times without any issues. The lens was recently used in Jan/Feb 2020 in Spiti Valley capturing snow leopards.
Wildlife parks and sanctuaries are scattered far and wide throughout India. From Gujarat to the north-eastern states local species of wildlife remain in their habitat and are seen all year round. Migratory birds from other continents arrive by the thousands through the start of the winter months that begin as early as October and remain till late March. Large cats like the snow leopard and Royal Benga tiger can still be spotted within certain isolated regions, although the timing and the amount of days within one area to see such large cats must be taken into consideration.
Above image, a Sarus crane in take-off mode amongst whistling ducks, painted storks and herons - Rajasthan
Above image, a mixed group of Steppe Eagles and Griffon Vultures sharing the same tree waiting to feed on a carcass. They can be spotted within wildlife parks, or in the northern regions of India. Sikkim also has numerous wildlife sanctuaries. One requires long lenses that can reach out to capture images like the above. More overland travel wildlife images can be seen here and the photo gear page may be worth a look. Vultures, eagles and snow leopards can be spotted within the Indian Himalayan region, although flocks of vultures are harder to spot unless a food source attracts them to a certain location. It's actually more luck, and by chance to photograph vultures and eagles feeding on carcasses along highway road routes. The first signs of any feeding frenzy by carnivore birds, is by their circular rotation in the sky. Using a pair of binoculars scouting locations is beneficial to pin point drop landing zones. My Indian midwinter overland Himalaya highland journey to photograph snow leopards will give you some real travel inspiration.
If luck is on your side, during mid-winter snow leopards can be spotted wading through virgin snow. With some patience, getting up-close to these "grey ghosts" is possible in Ladakh and Spiti Valley regions. Don't expect snow leopards to be roaming around in droves - they are listed as an endangered spices. Tracking, spotting and visually seeing Snow Leopards within their habitant is a rewarding experience. A set of binoculars, good photo-gear, and a reliable 4WD, including warm clothing to handle sub-zero temps between -10C to -25C is required in mid-winter season.
Snow leopards are not like their big cat cousins, the Bengal tiger, who randomly attack devouring humans. Snow leopards still have an abundance of different wildlife to hunt, catch and feed from. There hasn't been one report of a human being attacked by these high altitude cats. At most times when out spotting, and photographing snow leopards, they're evasive keeping their distance. The best season spotting and photographing snow leopards is during midwinter in extremely cold subzero temps in the double digits.
From the Himalaya highlands down to the flatlands, Indian wildlife has remained abundant due to the carpet banning wildlife hunting act created in 1972. The ultimate months photographing Indian wildlife at various wetlands, sanctuaries, and national parks is between November through to March. Photo gear is required (not smartphone cameras).
Coolies - Street Scene
Coolies can be spotted in and around vegetable and produce markets. They're known to lift and carry loads of up to 1 tonne (6-8 coolies together). The image captures were taken from a distance using the aid of a tripod which is recommended for various types of street photography in busy bustling areas. Finding a location to set up a tripod can be a mission for the right viewing angles, but in most cases it is possible. A tripod will usually enable a 360 degree hands free rotation resulting with crisp tack sharp images.
Getting up close photographing coolies will reward you with some great looking captures. The best time to find a bunch of them lifting and carrying heavy loads is usually around mid-morning outside market areas where trucks are off-loading their produce. Capturing portrait snaps of them on the fly between loads is possible, or even better during their smoko and lunch breaks.
Mahogany Trees - 200 Years Old
Some Indian highways have never been modified to accommodate the surge of today's traffic flow congestion. Two hundred year old plus mahogany trees stand proud along a busy interstate road. The display of their barrel diameters shows their actual size compared to freight trucks.
Random Street Photography
Capturing snaps within bustling market areas is like a gold mine. Indians from all walks of life pass through markets to shop, mingle, congregate, and fossick around. One place inside markets to get good results, is wherever a chai stall is. It's here where locals have time to sit, chat, sip on chai, and fire up smoking bidis.
A local artist with his brush finishing off the finer touches of his canvas - central ghats, Varanasi
Small tight lane ways are buzzing with different atmosphere catches many unaware of what could suddenly materialize from one second to the next. A flock of sheep and goats heading to market down this particular lane way is certainly one of those memorable moments in real time.
Capturing images like above can easily be done if some form of photo gear is already in hand to use. This is a small part of the magical experience through India which makes it well worth exploring in slow motion.
India is recognized as one of the top countries globally for all types of photography. It doesn't matter what your photographic fetishes are - India has it all. From random street captures, and festivals, colonial and cultural architecture, ancient historical sites, and desert landscape, including tribal zones, mountainous regions and wildlife spread across the country.The best time and season transiting through India is during the cooler months, from November through to February. If the heat isn't an issue, anytime of the year will work in your favor. Humidity before and during the monsoon season will harm camera lenses if not protected with silica gel, there's more on this in the Photo-Gear page.
Street Subjects
I've returned to India countless times since the 80s, each journey with some form of camera gear. Those who visit and travel through the country find out fast enough the value of carrying cameras with a few different lenses. Those solely relying on smart phone cameras will need to reevaluate the limitations of smart phone cameras.
Coast to coast, north to south, India will keep street photographers busy capturing snaps of locals from sunrise to sunset.
Taking random street images like above require consent from the subjects beforehand.
A random side street subject captured using DSLR photo gear mounted on a tripod.
Random street photography in India will keep you busy all day and most of the night no matter what city, village, or region you're in. A normal procedure after taking close-up snaps of locals is to show the image capture before rushing off - which will be appreciated. There are instances, and encounters when some Indians will resent being photographed, which is usually recognized immediately and should be respected. Don't push your luck just because of wanting particular images of someone. If crossing the boundaries, expect an aggressive response back without mercy. In general, most Indians are very photogenic, and don't mind to be photographed. Personally, I've always found interacting first with locals is the key to capture candid street portraits of people no matter what country it is.
Street photography through India still remains one of the top five countries for capturing street captures, if using positive interaction with locals. A six month visit through India clocks up faster than what most imagine.
Random street portraits using direct dialogue and positive interaction with subjects works in India.
Street photography boils down to personal inspirations of what one sees different to their own lifestyle living. India contains almost every kind of aspect of street photography with minimal difficulty capturing it. Street scenes, cross traffic, side streets, markets and ghats are the easiest locations to start.
Street scenes like above are scattered across the country, most within the vicinity near markets and railway stations.
Street photography is different from one day to the next in India. It begins at sun rise and continues endlessly through the day till sunset. Random street photography along bustling streets and washing ghats will exhaust most photographers. Carrying extra SD/flash cards and back-up batteries is recommended to cover an entire day out on city streets.
A variety of lenses with different focal lengths is recommended for India. Some will probably disagree, but the majority of street photographers around the planet use their own pick of prime and zoom lenses. The images through this website were captured using a variety of DSLR lenses.
Earthen Pottery
Countless clay pottery designs are seen scattered across India in all shapes and sizes. It's impossible not to spot a pile of stacked terracotta pots against walls, or spread along pavements near bustling market areas. Even when purchasing chai from street vendors, milk chai is usually poured into mini clay cups. Fresh curd is also packed in clay vessels. Chai and curd vessels are generally used once and discarded.
Above, a load of clay chai cups out for delivery. Below, a selection of earthen pottery in all shapes and sizes.
Sipping on fresh hot brewed milk chai out of clay cups while enjoying the street vibe in India is pretty hard to beat. No wonder foreigners return countless times to India, even though some hate the noise level, the erratic hustle and bustle, and endless flow of traffic and people going in all directions. India contains every vibe imagined opposite to Western culture - Welcome to the real world.
Kettle Pots & Street Chai
Other street photographers with out doubt will not resist capturing numerous snaps of India's chai fetish. This is seen throughout the country of locals causally sipping on milk chai from clay cups, I personally prefer black tea with lemon and pepper.
The abundance and usage of large cast iron and alloy kettles is nothing new to India. Classic designed kettles are still made and manufactured as they were 100 years ago with little alterations in sizes. Cast iron kettles are randomly spotted steaming on open fires in mountainous regions, and perched on various coal ranges within large cities and villages.
Indians in general have had a long historical chai addiction, which makes it easy to understand why the ionic open fire kettle is still being used today. Coal and wood is sourced throughout the country allowing most rural dwellings from east to west to have at least one large kettle steaming away ready to use.
Large cast iron pots are used throughout India for community and religious events, festivals and wedding ceremonies.
Below, a random snap of how street tea vendors prepare fresh pots of milk chai throughout India.
Machine Automotive Workshops
If you're into machine shop photography, then there's plenty of different types of workshops that can be found scattered throughout most cities in India. Small lathe and milling workshops are usually within the industrial areas of town. This is also the same location where one can find automotive and welding repair workshops for trucks, buses, and cars. In some cases, asking permission to photograph is required. There are industrial sites that prohibit any type of photography, don't cross the line.
Capturing images like these are found on the outskirts of most towns. Doing an all day walk through city streets will almost guarantee stumbling across different workshops worth photographing.
Small privately owned machine shops contain different types of ambience. Some have collected decades of history with the same owners. Photography inside workshops is at the discretion of the owners depending if they have a workload quota to finish. Returning at a later date can always be agreed upon if necessary. Large industrial workshops are impossible to enter without prior permission.
Entering into machine workshops while machinery is operating is entirely at your own risk.
Below, welding can be seen at most automotive workshops where trucks, and trailer units are repaired. Usually, there are no restrictions to photograph welders in motion, although this will depend on each individual workshop. Wearing dark shades is advisable, and allowing ample free space for welders to continue working without disturbing their workflow.
Below, street mechanics play an integral role across India, the dismantling and renovation of engines, transmissions, and diffs from all types of vehicles is visibly seen in most towns usually in one certain area. Some of the easiest repair locations are in smaller villages close to highways at major junctions. With a small amount of interaction, images like this can be captured without any issues. A round of chai for the mechanics will be appreciated.
Below, locals in full swing flat out busy dismantling and replacing transmissions and diff parts on the outskirts of town.
Authentic Leather Handcrafts
Leather items like fashion foot wear and custom belts all have their own authentic designs through each state. A pair of custom handmade leather shoes can be made to order. If you're in to hand made leather work, then India probably has something that will catch your eye.
Mount Everest Viewpoint - Sandakphu
Trekking to Sandakphu is one of the quickest hikes in India to view the Himalayan mountains. At an elevation of 3700 meters, Sandakphu summit gives a spectacular panoramic view just like an open amphitheater of the Himalayan chain, which includes Mount Everest, the 3 sisters, Lantang and Kanchenjunga. Rising early before sunrise will give the clearest views before hazing occurs. Sandakphu is situated on the tri-borders of Sikkim, Nepal and India. The above snap of a local couple was taken at the summit with Kanchenjunga in the background.
Cremation Ghat
Visiting the cremation ghats in Varanasi is a common event amongst foreigners. There are no issues watching the last rights cremation process with a variety of different viewing points. Many take an early morning sunrise cruise along the Ganga in a dugout passing close-by the cremation ghat. One of the main issues with foreigners are those who have no interest in the cremation process, and only visit briefly for 5 minutes to grab sneaky snaps, and then cruise off. There is a "mafia" of locals who keep their eyes on those who do this. They do pounce on foreigners neglecting respect. The image below was taken with no issues, because of direct interaction with the family, and showing respect during the cremation process. Those wanting to capture full view photographs like this will first require to have direct dialogue and permission from family members.
Below, a Dalit (low caste) loading cremated ash into a sifting pan at the main burning ghat in Varanasi. A daily rotating shift of Dalits share a portion of the gold and silver from each 24 hour cycle of cremated ash. The ash is panned on the edge of the Ganges beside the cremation area. The above image shows a family with their deceased which was transported by boat about to prepare for the last rites (immersion and cremation).
Note: Prior permission is normally required by foreigners to photograph within the vicinity of the main burning ghat.
Below, early morning long shot capture from across the Ganga - Nikon 800mm f/5.6 AIS manual focus lens.
Walkabout - Grabbing Snaps
Solo city street walks begin after daybreak. Getting out and about capturing street snaps all day depends how self motivated one is. One thing for sure, every day is different to the next. The feel of the Indian rush is in full swing at 10am onwards through till dark. Sipping on street chai and chit chatting with locals is never ending. It's impossible to get lost, locals will point the direction back to home base when required.
Getting out and about at dawn especially during the winter months becomes an everyday event for those who have an interest in street photography. Finding different subjects to capture depends on personal preferences and location.
A common event seen along the river banks throughout India are locals earning a wage washing clothes for customers. Ghat washing is usually by beating clothes, carpets, and linen to death, and then sun drying everything to a crisp. The best time to view and grab snaps begins at sunrise.
Novices on the streets of Calcutta, a part of the Missionaries of Charity congregation established 1950 by Mother Teresa.
Capturing random snaps through India is a large part of what foreigners enjoying doing. Image above, a local with shaved hair signifying a death in the family, a tradition dating back centuries.
Street Portraits
Randomly photographing women in India will depend on their status and cultural practices. Some elderly woman won't hesitate being photographed while others are extremely suspicious having a lens pointed at them. This solely depends on each subject, the amount of time they allow before saying enough is enough. Showing image captures to subjects will give positive results with smiles of appreciation. Consent before photographing Muslim women is required, or watch out. Everyday out on the street in India is different from the previous without seeing the same faces. The options and opportunities for random street portraits are immense without the complications that are seen in western countries. Travelling through India still offers the freedom to photograph as you wish without having to look over your shoulder. In most cases, locals will scratch their heads wondering why a foreigner took a street shot of an elderly woman. I've lost count how many times I've seen Indian guys going out of their way to have selfie snaps with western women.
In the summer months, family groups are seen together relaxing in shady areas cooling off from sweltering heat interacting amongst themselves. This is one of the positive advantages of capturing street portraits through the country.
Have you ever had the urge to photograph particular strangers on the street, and regretted not doing so?. It maybe because of low interaction levels, shyness, or the humility of being denied, and screamed at in public. If you were to sit in any busy market area to watch locals interact with each other, you'll notice very quickly they all have similar levels of interaction. Some scream at each other with humorous chit-chat, or argue to the extent of boiling point without crossing the line. Foreigners in the middle of all this will probably think twice and hesitate to grab close-up snaps, because of their western way of thinking that it may be inappropriate, or could result with a negative outcome. In most cases this never happens.
Street vendors, market sellers, and the majority of locals are quite flexible, if someone wants to get close-up portraits of them. Don't think you're the first person that's captured street portraits of any particular subject. You'd be surprised how many times certain people have been photographed within the same location over period of one or two decades. So, if there's an urge to capture someone close-up, it will depend on your interaction level, and how much you want the photo.
Ganga
Hiring a boat at first light is normal procedure among the thousands of locals and foreigners visiting Varanasi. Finding a sadhu to share the journey up and down the Ganga is another option for those who want to push the limits of inspiration to the next level. Finding a sadhu at 5am in the morning for a few hours is virtually impossible. Arranging a time and place can be arranged the night before - Bartering an hourly rate with a sadhu is interesting.
Interacting with some Sadhus can be humorous and entertaining at the least. Each time I pass through Varanasi I usually spend some chill-out time meeting up with the same sadhu if he's in town catching-up on chit chat, sipping down tons of chai, and grabbing some close-up snaps.
Bikaner To Jaisalmer By Camel
Camels are still used for labour work pulling cart loads of hay, or other agricultural produce annually. This is mainly seen in rural regions in Gujarat and Rajasthan states in the west. Some lucky camels are used for tourism purposes in the Thar desert used for transit journeys from Bikaner to Jaisalmer.
Aghori Sadhus
Aghori are identified by their distinct dress wear. Black cloth, human arm or rib bones, and human skull necklaces.
Above, a partial display of human bones used by Aghori for rituals retrieved from cremation sites.
A long shot capture of an Aghori dressed in black cloth wearing a bone necklace adorned with miniature human skulls.
Aghori Sadhus are the most respected of all Sadhus. They live in a life of celibacy. They are known for their bizarre religious rituals which are associated to forms of cannibalism. It includes group night rituals of necrophilia, and perform other rituals using human bones, and skulls. Aghoris also consume almost anything, which includes all types of faeces, human fluids and human flesh. By doing this they gain awareness of the oneness of everything. Photographing Aghori can be a mission, and isn't recommended unless they allow it. Aghori can become very aggressive with those who pursue to pass the boundaries of grabbing snaps without contributing a cash pay-out. They may also place a voodoo curse on those who push themselves to grab snaps without permission. Graphic image captures of Aghori cannot be posted on this website due to full genitalia exposure.
Some Aghori have very nasty temperaments. They shouldn't be approached unless invited. Even Indians keep their distance from them. If you can handle full genitalia nakedness, voodoo rituals, curses, and visualising spiritual connections using human bones - there's nothing to worry about.
Below, an Aghori at daybreak close to the small burning ghat in Varanasi. I didn't bother interacting with this guy to capture a frontal portrait because my inner instinct was probably correct that he wouldn't at all appreciate being photographed in that exact moment.
Random Street Portraits
Taking street portraits through India is rewarding. It can be along bustling city streets, inside vegetable markets, outside train stations, bus stations, near industrial locations and at festival events. Markets will keep most busy snapping images for hours, and at times all day, and returning to the same locations for another fix. River estuaries, canals, and fishing docks are also good locations to capture portrait snaps.
A few years ago, I had received an email from a British national, who stated in the mail "you are not a photographer", "you don't know how to photograph", "you need to return to New Zealand and forget about photography" etc etc. I had briefly shared a van ride with this dude in Ethiopia (we won't mention his name here), we had never spoken directly together. Somehow he was triggered, but like yellow cowards are, too weak and fragile to say whatever bugged his brain cells in direct one on one conversation at the time.
I must say, this millennial isn't alone, there's many westerners out there traveling carrying their past garbage with them. Best advice for people like him - stay home in your bubble and don't come out.
Street photographers have different appeal of what they like to capture and what they dislike and avoid. I prefer capturing street portraits rather than of flowers and butterflies. Street photography is personal, nothing can change that. It's like those who prefer drinking chai rather than coffee, or wine and not whiskey. Street photographers have their own style and preferences of what they enjoy to photograph.
In recent years I've been asked many times by other foreigners offshore why I'm still using old outdated DSLR camera gear. One dude, a young American was using the latest google smart phone to capture images. We spent a few days together strolling the streets taking random snaps. He quickly discovered the limitations of his smart phone camera in comparison to what my old DSLR gear could accomplish. At the end of our short time together, he requested a list of Nikon DSLR stuff. To my surprise, a few months later, he had purchased a full frame Nikon body and three good lenses.
Capturing street images of Indians in military uniform is a grey area. Posting images online of Indians in military clothing like above should be without their name tags shown.
DSLR Gear Works
If you've browsed through other pages on this website, you'll notice 99.9% of images have been captured using natural ambient light. When photographing Sadhus in dark or subdued light, their composure, depending what state of mind, may cause different responses to bright flashes. Sadhus who are high on ganja or hashish are normally very chilled and relaxed, so imagine certain Sadhus who may get agro responsive temperaments when camera flashes fire into their faces. Don't expect any sympathy or respect if Sadhus freak out with flash. Instead, use whatever ambient light there is to get the shot.
Above, low light capture using classic DSLR photo gear and prime lens without the need of using any flash.
Street photographers have their own techniques to capture random distant portraits. One I've found that works consecutively, is using DSLR gear set-up on tripods within busy locations. The ease of rotating heavy lenses 360 degrees can't be easier. This also guarantees more chance of getting sharp tack image captures.
Monasteries - Temples - Mausoleums
Spotting temples, and monasteries is easy - just look in any direction, they won't be too far away. That's something India isn't short of. Up in the highlands Buddhist temples are nestled at the bottom of cliff faces, or on the top of mountain passes. Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh states are well known for their abundance of mixed monasteries and temples.
The above roll film snap of the historical Mogul icon still remains the same today as it was when this image was taken over 35 years ago on one of my first visits to India. The postcard era of travel was the era of total freedom without all the fluff puff tourism floating around the planet today. Below, a long shot low res image across the valley of a Buddhist retreat in the Indian highlands. It was captured with a 2007 D3 12MP body & 1986-05 800mm f/5.6 AIS lens.
Durga Puja
Durga Puja is one of many festivals that shouldn't be missed. Durga Puja festivals are in West Bengal, Bihar, Jharkhand, Odisha, Assam and Tripura state. It's one of the largest annual festival events in the mentioned provinces. Durga Puja is a time of celebration with family, social gatherings, shopping and gift-giving, feasting, pandal-visiting and pandel immersion. Durga festivals usually begin in October lasting five days.
Interacting Works
Brushing up your interacting skills is priority for capturing random street portraits in any continent. If you're shy, or come from a country where people are afraid to interact with complete strangers, to start-up conversations with particular people, or have a general anti-phobia towards weird looking people - you have a problem. Opening yourself up towards strangers will depend how infected you've become within your own environment.
Capturing close-up random street portraits starts by interacting with the subject. No interaction will get you zilch with inner disappointment that will continue if not dealt with. The most negative reaction one can suffer from any basic chit-chat with any stranger is a NO to photograph. This does happen, and should be respected, but in most cases capturing close-up street portraits of strangers is positive - Try it!
Rural Highlands India
Above, a young tribal girl sits patiently for the kettle to boil in rural Manipur state. Below, a local highlands woman gave me the opportunity to grab this snap of her kitchen cooking dinner.
Escaping up to the Indian Himalayan highlands during the pre-monsoon season begins as early as April. The mountainous regions are chilled down to snail pace. Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh, Kashmir, Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh contain different ambient laidback lifestyles. The most difficult thing to decide is when it's time to leave these regions. Below image, a secluded location well away from tourist hot spots with open panoramic views.
King Cobra - Snake God
The serpent snake is well embedded into ancient Hinduism mythology and considered to be divine. The image above showing a sadhu with a cobra reflects this. Nagpanchami is celebrated every year on 30th of July with rituals to the snake god. Indian snake charmers on the other hand originate from the Sapera or Sapuakela castes. Their tradition goes back centuries, but the banning of owning reptiles was passed into law in 1972. Snake charmers being nomadic can still be seen in rural villages, and ghats.
Below, I've seen this snake charmer a few times at different locations, he stopped for a quick street snap.
Colonial - Howrah Bridge
Most of India's major cities are entwined with an array of new and historical structures with some seen spread across the skyline. Kolkata's classic Howrah bridge, which received a name change to Rabindra Setu bridge is one of many famous icons of the city. Over one hundred thousand vehicles cross over the bridge daily, including an estimated two hundred thousand pedestrians. It's probably the most used cantilever bridge in the world. A little downstream is the newer Hooghly bridge which has considerably helped the traffic flow congestion across the Hooghly river.
Above image, taken mid-morning shows a constant flow of people in transit carrying possessions, luggage and baggage across Howrah bridge. The steady flow rate of people continues non-stop throughout the course of the day till the sun sets. Below, traffic is also at constant pace all day - everyday. Photography is actually not permitted on the bridge, but some foreigners (and locals) do grab quick-snaps at their own risk.
Black Fuel - Coal
Coal is still a natural commodity in demand throughout India that's used for cooking, and heating purposes. It's cheap and plentiful, which still makes this mineral a favourite for heating purposes amongst many locals.
Chulah coaled fuelled ovens are used throughout India. The process of banning coal fed tandoors has recently been brought in motion by the government to prohibit the use of coal burning ovens in cities and urban regions. Instead, LPG gas replacements will eventually roll-out through India within the next few years.
Head Massage
Nothing beats a good head massage by local street masseurs throughout India guaranteed to give full satisfaction.
Sadhus - Chillum & Charas
Sadhus and pilgrims from all different sects of Hinduism openly enjoy smoking loaded chillums of charas.
Chillum smoking has been a part of Indian culture dating back centuries especially with the Naga Sadhus. Its main purpose is to increase one’s ability to focus and strengthen one’s energy for concentrated meditation. The tradition of chillum smoking, although more sensitive today than it ever has been, remains as a grey area of its legality.
Charas (weed) has been used by the Naga Sadhus, Aghoris, and Tantric Bhairava sects for centuries in connection with religious purposes in India. Although Hash was made illegal under Indian law in the 1980's, it still retains a grey area that's more relaxed for individual, although trafficking the drug still holds up to a 10 year jail term. Charas is normally smoked in clay made chillums. Hashish is illegally cultivated in the mountainous regions in various Indian states. As a warning, foreign visitors dealing or exporting hashish or other drugs in India are severely dealt with. Each Indian state uses their own legal/illegal regulations for smoking weed. Legal weed India
Taking snaps of locals using chillums will depend who it is and the location - positive interaction skills required.
Above, don't ask me where this roll film snap was originally taken, it was probably one of my first ever chillum images captured during the mid-eighties. I still have thousands of negative and slide film that was taken through the 1980's and 90's in storage that haven't been digitalised. When I return back to home base (NZ), it's well past the time to develop some of these classic images into canvas.
Workaholics
Traveling through India, one quickly realises how vast the multitude of people there are across the country, who work their bones off seven days a week around the clock non-stop. This is witnessed through rural regions coast to coast in fishing villages and agricultural environs.
The image above shows a local from a fishing village carving up a part of the day's catch. The below image of women in fast motion carrying bundles of fodder to their village - Odisha and Andhra Pradesh states.
Nostalgia Street Photography
If antique gateways, manual cast iron street water pumps, or colonial styled buildings are of interest, India has more than enough antique street nostalgia to keep anyone busy. Roaming around inside colonial locations, especially down quiet side streets or lane ways will usually have its own forms of street ambience and remains of colonial heritage.
Hornbill Festival - Nagaland
If passing through north east India during the end of November, the Hornbill festival is one event that shouldn't be missed.
The Hornbill festival has been a great success since its creation. The event congregates seventeen different tribes throughout Nagaland for a full on ten day gathering of ethnic dance and song. The festival is usually held in early December situated south of Kohima. Nagaland is a dry state (no alcohol), but during the Hornbill festival rice wine is plentiful. Warm clothing is necessary due to the altitude and winter temperatures which can drop below zero.
Below, customary dress wear design worn by the Konyak tribe situated in the far northern region of Nagaland state.
Knock yourself out enjoying the largest tribal festival event in north east India. After the event, one can slowly travel further north using bush bus transport to Mon district and onward through to Assam state and Arunachal Pradesh (permits required for AP)
India - Street Action
Random street photography through India becomes a daily exercise having no end. Getting into the hustle and bustle inside overflowing markets, or feeling the push and shove along narrow side streets and laneways shouldn't be avoided. On most days, strolling around without knowing where you'll end up can mount to kilometres from home base.
Name another country that has endless street portraits, diverse culture, landscape and wildlife like India - I'll go there.
Many foreign street photographers end up finding out quickly a 3 month journey through India is far too short to cover the entire country. Even a 6 month trip depends what time of the year one arrives. Since the mid 80's, I've had over 12 visits with more to come. I've been doing freelance street photography many times through Africa, South America, the Mid East, and other regions in Asia. India is probably the most favourable country in the world to capture all types of street images beyond imagination. The abundance of wildlife, landscape, astro, street scenes, and endless mix of cultures, including overland border crossings to Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar, Bangladesh, and Pakistan makes India more difficult not to return.
Those who say "I've traveled and seen all of India in three months" are certainly deceiving themselves. Even a 6 month stint through the Indian sub-continent is virtually impossible of completing a thorough visitation of India. Visiting wildlife parks alone, including numerous sanctuaries of wildlife habitat off the beaten track becomes an endless feat through the migratory season. It would actually take years to visit most known wildlife regions in the country without even calculating countless other isolated wildlife habitat regions that exist. Favourite locations through India will usually end-up becoming multiple return visits for most foreign visitors.
Don't come to India or travel almost anywhere else outside your comfy bubbles without camera gear! Camera smart phones don't cut-it for still photography. Repeat, Camera smart phones don't cut it for still photography. They're useless past what they've been designed for - social media, food scraps, pet dogs & cats, zoo snaps. Quality high end point and shoots, 3/4 cameras with DSLR lenses, and full frame DSLR photo gear will get the shots every time.
One can become disappointed during travel journeys if only using cell cameras. Take some positive advise, travel with real camera gear. The end results count. Enlarged cropped long shots taken with cell cameras are ugly! If you want satisfying images, at least travel with a couple of quality lenses i.e. wide angle zoom, prime lens for portraits, and a long range tele/zoom for wildlife. I personally still use DSLR gear in 2022. I don't follow trends, so mirrorless can take a back seat for a few more years yet.
