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  Intrepid Overland Travel

India Solo Overland - Travel & Transit

"If You enjoy endless street photography - India is for you"

All Images By Rick Hemi

india images by rick hemi

India, a country packed with endless diversity for the visitor. No other country on the planet can match what India has to offer. There's so much to see and explore, that it would take years to cover the entire country. Festivals and cultural events are spread far and wide throughout the year.

Historical ancient temples, havelis, castles, and monasteries are almost endless. They will definitely satisfy anyone's visionary mindset and curiosity. India's rugged highland Himalayan mountain regions are absolutely mind blowing, especially within the Ladakh and Spiti valley regions, including the eastern states of North West Bengal, Sikkim and  Arunachal Pradesh.

The western desert regions in Gujarat and Rajasthan are both famous for wildlife, and different tribal lifestyles, Seasoned travelers like myself and other keep returning to these locations enjoying wilderness isolation.

​

​The north eastern states of Nagaland and Manipur bordering beside Myanmar are bustling with various ethnic tribal communities like the Konyak and Kuki tribes. There are large amounts of wildlife parks scattered across the Indian sub-continent, which alone will absorb lots of time and energy to visit, especially when the migratory season begins.

​Traveling and transiting solo across the country is simplified by using India's well-constructed and established train network in any desired direction chosen. As for the locals themselves, they will certainly wear you out with lots of humor, and vibrant hospitality with plenty of entertaining conversations, and chit chat.   

Random Street Stills

solo overland travel India, street portraits, DSLR images by Rick Hemi

Arriving into India just for two weeks is a no brainer. Traveling through India without camera gear is definitely a no brainer. One requires ample travel time i.e. three to six months, and at least a quality point and shoot or even better, full frame DSLR photo gear to capture satisfying images.

solo overland travel India, land of portraits, image by Rick Hemi

We all have our own personal taste, vision and technique to capture amazing street snaps of total strangers that have appealing reasons in the first place to capture them. India certainly has an endless amount of opportunity to do this with unlimited options to randomly photograph locals without fuss or bother. Personally, I've always enjoyed taking random street captures of anyone that catches the corner of my eye looking vibrant within their own environment. There are endless opportunities throughout India capturing rewarding images of subjects. All it takes is positive interaction.

overland travel India, street photography, group street portraits, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Without any level of interaction with people, image like above are impossible to capture. Nikon DSLR full frame and prime lens.  

solo overland travel India, street photography india, photography India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Random street photography is virtually limitless without boundaries in India. In general, capturing portraits of locals usually takes only a small amount of interaction time. Using basic street rules of respect and tolerance will yield rewarding images of locals through the country. Depending on taste, it doesn't really matter if street portraits are captured in color or black and white, strong facial expressions and composure remains the same. Below, composition of street portraits haven't changed one bit. (1986/2018)   

overland travel India, past present street photography, images by Rick Hemi

Street images like these are easily found within smaller townships through India. Strolling around side streets off any main road will usually open up to all types of residential dwellings. It's here where one can find locals in different kinds of ambient background settings. These images were captured using prime lenses without having the need of using flash. Depending on a subject's position, a small amount of interaction maybe required to move subjects towards whatever  available light source is present.

overland travel India, tribal lands, remote isolated regions, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Nothing is more rewarding than capturing random street portraits of locals on a solo overland journey from eastern India through to the Pakistan border. Finding people to photograph can materialise directly on the street, in a market, a shop, or within a residential area. It comes down to how much motivation there is to find the subjects one is looking for. All my random street portraits are taken without using flash, just whatever ambient light there is to work with. I don't use smart phone cameras, or point and shoots because of the disappointment of the end result. Any DSLR body brand with a quality lens works every time without fail. Image captures through this page are only a small portion from thousands of random street snaps taken in India using the following classic photo-gear, which is still being used today because of optic quality and reliability. Nikon D3, D3S, D800 bodies, AF-28mm f/1.4D, 50mm f/1.4 AF-85mm f/1.4D, 105mm f/1.8 AIS, AFS 14-24mm f/2.8, AFS200-400mm f/4 VRII, 800mm f/5.6 AIS (zero usage of junkie smart phone cameras).

India solo travel, overland street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

A quick comparison between digital and 35mm roll film street portraits in India spanning more than three and half decades between captures. The above subject was taken with a Nikon DSLR D3 12MP. The below subject was taken during the eighties, captured with SLR manual focus Nikon gear. Even though the below image is low res only, it still holds its original ambience. I still travel using a few classic Nikon manual focus lenses in the 2020s. If roll film was cheap and readily available, I wouldn't hesitate using a Mamiya RZ67 medium format camera for portraiture street snaps.          

solo travel India, street portrait, SLR roll film 1980s, image by Rick Hemi

India Overland - Don't Think Twice - Do It!

solo overland travel India, travelling with DSLR camera gear is a must

Positive interaction with locals using DSLR photo gear : Street photography : Random portraits : Melas : On the go 

India will definitely absorb your time, including your patience. Don't expect any kudo points as a visitor to India in regards to hotel and travel bookings. More Indians travel through their own country more than ever. New hotels have sprung up all over the place to accommodate Indians from interstate. Train bookings must be done well in advance, and is certainly recommended and a necessity when major holidays begin throughout the country. This also includes luxury buses which are already been pre-booked months in advance.

solo overland travel India, land of interaction, image by Rick Hemi

Hiring vehicles with or without a driver is an alternative, but it isn't cheap. Hiring motorbikes to get around is trendy, and for those on long term visas it's more logical to purchase used Royal Enfields which can be resold or kept in storage until re-visiting India.

solo travel India, street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Issued Indian six month visas begin count-down from the date of issue. Also, some six month visas that are issued are split visas, meaning that after 89 days one must leave India to Nepal or Bangladesh for 24 hrs, and then re-enter again to continue the remaining 90 days. Always depart India on time, at least day or two before visas expire. Many visitors who have ignored the 90/90 split visa regulation have ended up missing their flight out of India because of ignoring this procedure. Airport immigration will deny boarding, or exiting an overland border, and usually require an official paper clearance which takes a day to get. This may also cause issues when applying for future visas to India. What's what in the Transit Baggage page covers basic necessities of different items that have a proven track record with my own approval rating. On most long-term overland travel journey there's always the dilemma of deciding what photo gear to carry in transit. The Photo-Gear page covers a variety of new and classic Nikon equipment, and different accessories. Visa Information, Ezilon Indian  map

India solo overland travel, wilderness Himalaya, image by Rick Hemi

Kashmir : Ladakh : Spiti : Uttarakhand : Sikkim : Arunachal Pradesh : Mizoram : Nagaland

Are you looking for peace and quiet well away from social media, selfie addicts, and over-spill from other foreign tourists like in Nepal? Heading up to the Himalayan highlands in India still has plenty of open spaces from the craziness seen else where. During the summer months or through mid-winter, Spiti Valley is the great escape. Another isolated destination is Arunachal Pradesh, situated north of Assam state. Both areas have their own diverse cultural and heritage stepped back in time. Hiking through serene wilderness spotting wildlife habitat can't get better.

solo overland travel India, transit highway snaps to Spiti Valley, images Rick Hemi

Above snaps, van transportation during the summer months to Spiti valley. Private lift via Shimla to Spiti during midwinter (two flat tires and three days delay from avalanches). Transport getting there, is with shared vans, public bush-buses, and hitched lifts. Renting, or driving your own 4WD can also be done. Only those with previous driving experience on high altitude dirt tracks covered in snow (during winter) should consider this. During the summer season, renting an MC (Royal Enfield) has become fashion for full on road trip journeys that certainly won't disappoint. Foreigners require inline-permits transiting on the Shimla-Kaza route. Permits are also required to travel in unrestricted areas in Arunachal Pradesh. Having plenty of time on your hands visiting these regions is necessary due to their isolation. 

overland travel and transit India, highland landscape Himalaya, image by Rick Hemi

Views of Key Gompa from any angle are mind-blowing. Snow begins to fall through the region as early as November. Sub-zero temps through mid-winter can easily reach minus -35C during the night. The Spiti Valley region becomes totally isolated during winter with only a very small trickle of visitors. At the moment there is still no airport and only one road track reaching Kaza from October to May.

solo overland travel India, the high road midwinter Spiti valley, images by Rick Hemi

Above, subzero rugged landscape terrain during midwinter transit along the only open passable road route to Kaza. Sudden road blocks caused by rockfall and avalanches is common occurrence during heavy snowfall. The 5480 meter elevation reaching Komic is only accessible with local drivers based in Kaza. As yet, there is no airport access in Spiti valley, which is a good thing keeping plastic tourism at bay. This is what is destroying Leh. In 1974, there were 527 visitors in Ladakh — 500 foreign and 27 domestic. In 2022, from January to August 450,000 tourists visited Leh. Any isolated Eco-system will eventually deteriorate beyond repair caused by impacted plastic tourism. 

solo overland travel midwinter India, Himalaya highlands India, image by Rick Hemi

Reaching Spiti valley in midwinter is truly a rugged overland journey on one of the most dangerous road routes on the planet (in midwinter). There's only one road route in and out during midwinter. Those who are looking for extreme highland wilderness won't be disappointed. For over a month, I didn't see or meet another foreigner throughout the region. Only a few Indian wildlife photographers at Chicham gorge capturing shots of a sleepy laid back snow leopard. I ended up doing my own snow leopard scouting and tracking elsewhere at higher elevation levels — and found them.   

Indian midwinter Himalaya highlands road routes, map design by Rick Hemi

Permits are required for non-Indian nationals traveling on the Rekong Peo - Kaza route. Permits are issued in Rekong Peo.  

Below, the reward of capturing snow leopards in the wilderness mounted on the wall in canvas. This large 135cm x 95cm canvas was recently gifted in 2022. It will certainly create all types of different conversation for those who also enjoy capturing wildlife images within rugged environments. Distance 450+ meters minus -17C

snow leopard canvas, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

India - Coast To Coast Overland

solo overland travel India, diverse canal landscape Sundarbans India, DSLR images by Rick Hemi

Above, typical canal landscape seen through the Sundarbans. The region in 2023 has an approximate count of just over 90 swamp tigers roaming freely within the reserve. The chances of spotting these big cats, is like finding a needle in a haystack. More on salt water swamp tigers further down the page.

solo overland travel through India with DSLR photo gear, images by Rick Hemi

There are those who come to India with no interest with any type of street photography. They will generally use smart phone cameras to get their shots. It's interesting to note, I've met numerous foreigners that have regretted not traveling with real camera gear after a six month stint through India — Don't become one of them.

solo overland travel India, canal lowtide Sundarbans, image by Rick Hemi

Smart phone travelers should seriously think before leaving home base. I've been down that path using smart phones capturing images, all having the same result — Disappointing. Also regrettably, especially among the Gen Z generation, is the lack of using basic camera gear offshore, ignoring what's in front of them without them in it. There's more to life in real time grabbing narcissistic selfies posted ASP to social media. Traveling offshore with up market point and shoots, 4/3 cameras, or better still, full frame DSLR camera gear will certainly capture images smart phone cameras often struggle to get.

overland travel India, wetlands, image by Rick Hemi

Any  journey through India, one quickly realizes the country is full of wetland habitats. Arriving to these locations only using cell cameras, is a personal choice, but will become disappointing. Before any long-term offshore travel, leaving home base with at least a good point and shoot (P1000), or semi-pro full frame DSLR, is well worth considering. At least think about it researching your interests past your own personal boundaries and expectations. 

solo travel overland India, get the shot India, street markets, tribal, landscape, festivals, wildlife, portraiture, temples, action, random snaps India, image by Rick Hemi

No matter the direction one travels, capturing random snaps coast to coast though India is more than satisfying i.e. city and urban random portraits, highlands, lowlands, coastal regions, tribal territory, wilderness bush land, wetlands, desert environs, bird and wildlife.    

solo overland travel India, image by Rick Hemi

India isn't a country for smart phone travel. India is DSLR territory. Smart phone travelers can easily purchase used or new camera gear no matter the brand in major cities like, Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and Chennai. Don't become disappointed after a few weeks travel when you realize your little smart phone camera is way out of its league.       

solo travel India, sadhu and dogs huddled together, image by Rick Hemi

Early morning and late afternoon strolls avoiding the midday heat through the Indian lowlands are the best times capturing street snaps. 

solo overland travel India, random street photography India, DSLR AIS manual zoom snaps by Rick Hemi

Typical random street photography using DSLR full frame photo gear through India has no limits. Every day is different to the next, nothing stays still, everything is on the move. Even the tools above weren't there the following day, including capturing the same silhouette like below. Never hesitate when your eyes spot something worthy to photograph. Regret happens for those missed shots.    

solo overland travel India, coast to coast India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Getting out of urban cities into rural India, farming and planting of paddy is abundant. Below, a local planting paddy during the cold season. Uttar Pradesh state produces approximately 15 million tons of paddy annually with 25% of land mass developed for rice production.

solo overland travel India, DSLR full frame image by Rick Hemi

Overland To India - Transit Map

Asia solo overland travel transit map, Asia overland routes, map image by Rick Hemi

All land borders are open in both directions from Myanmar, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Pakistan. Sporadic border closures may occur at the Myanmar crossings due to insurgency. Burmese permits to cross into India are no longer required. Getting across or to Pakistan is at the Wagah- Atari land border crossing. The choices of land border crossings between Nepal and Bangladesh to India are many without complications. Riding an Indian registered motorbike or car in Nepal isn't cheap, the 500 Nepali rupee fee per day is a ripoff. Indian visa info
As of March 2021, all foreigner visitors including OCI card holders require PAP permits in advance (Protected Area Permit), and must fly reaching certain restricted zones i.e. Nagaland, Manipur, Mizoram, Arunachal Pradesh. Overland travel crossing into eastern states for all foreigners is now prohibited, although entering overland from Myanmar is permitted. Leaving eastern states by land may or may not be permitted. Rules for entering and leaving restricted zones can change at a moments notice - Check well in advance!    

Overland travel transit map India, India-Pakistan, India-Myanmar, India-Nepal, India-Bangladesh transit routes, map image design by Rick Hemi

The options getting around India overland, is with train and bus transportation. Highland travel reaching the edges of isolation along the Himalaya is with local bush buses, commuter vans and 4WD. Purchasing or renting your own vehicle, or MC (Royal Enfield) is the ultimate way to go - recommended for long duration journeys of 6 months or more.

solo overland travel India, on the go India, image by Rick Hemi

Below, typical high road travel within the India Himalaya during peak midwinter. Depending on snow drift, roads that are open through the cold season can be blocked from avalanches and rock fall. Sticking to tight travel itineraries up in this region should be discarded.   

solo overland travel India, Indian Himalaya high road peak midwinter, image by Rick Hemi

On Arrival - Forbidden Items

Prohibited into India - Ammo - Narcotics - Certain Camera Drones - Direct Satellite Handsets

Using any type of camera drone is forbidden in India, unless an official permit request is granted by the police, the local administration and from the ministry of aviation. The type of drone, and location coordinates will also be required before any permit is issued. Camera drones may not be used at night even if permits are granted. Direct satellite telephone services are not permitted in India. Thuraya, Irridium and other such satellite operators are prohibited. As a warning, those arriving to India found  in possession of these sets will be automatically seized at the port of entry. Holders could be prosecuted under Section 6 of Indian Wireless Act and Section 20 of Indian Telegraph Act. Large quantities of gold must be declared upon arrival, Indian customs are very thorough at International airport entries through the country. ​

solo overland travel India, crossing international borders, traveling with live ammo cartridges and spent ammo brass is illegal, image by Rick Hemi

It's your own responsibility to check personal baggage for illegal items before flight departures and crossing international land borders. Live ammo, used ammo, spent cartridges, bullet projectiles and primers of all caliber sizes are prohibited in India.

Narco Drug Smuggling - Don't Think About It!

Cross-border and internal drug busts of cocaine, heroin, meth and marijuana happens frequently throughout all states in India. International air/land border customs into India are thorough. The clampdown of illegal drugs - including marijuana in India has further tightened. Foreigners contemplating to smuggle or carry any type of illegal narcotics - soft or hard will automatically be arrested and charged if caught. Ugandans busted with 9.8 kilos heroin : 5 Afghans busted 370 heroin capsules : Incoming drugs to Post offices : Female drug mule busted 1/2 kilo heroin in stomach : Drug bust 16 kilos heroin : 330 kilo heroin bust via Islam Qila, Herat, Bandar Abbas Iran to Mumbai port
Links of local drug busts Heroin bust- Mizoram   Heroin bust - Himachal  Marijuana bust - Telangana    Marijuana bust - Tripura    Marijuana bust - Odisha    Marijuana bust - Pune    Heroin bust - Gujurat    Heroin Marijuana bust - Haryana    Meth bust - Delhi    Meth Heroin bust - Punjab    Cocaine bust - Delhi   1.5 tonnes of ganja - Delhi  72 foreign nationals busted supplying heroin - Himachal Pradesh  Ivory Coast national busted selling MDMA crystal powder - Bangalore.

Other Warnings

solo overland travel India, thirst quenching Indian ales, images by Rick Hemi

It's prohibited to consume alcoholic beverages on the streets in India, He-man 9000 Sikkim, Meakin's 10000 Ghaziabad    

Indians do enjoy drinking alcoholic beverages and usually follow a set of guide lines with the majority of Indians knowing the limits when intoxicated in public zones. Crossing the line touching or molesting woman in public places is a definite no brainer that can result in severe punishment. In November 2019, a 35 year old Aussie male tourist found out the hard way, who was heavily intoxicated touching local woman. He was warned to stop, but continued and ended up being tied and roped and severely beaten. If you want to embarrass yourself  - Do it in your own country! It only takes one western foreigner disgracing their entire nation because of their stupidity and arrogance!
Western exchange students, foreign NGOs, and tourists s
hould avoid joining in all types of anti-government protests throughout India. Deportation is immediate, including black bans reentering India for those ignoring the rules. 

Chillum & Bhang - Grey Area

solo overland travel India, the land of Sadhus, silhouette sadhu image by Rick Hemi

The grey area of cannabis smoking in India is complex. Even though it's illegal under the law to cultivate cannabis (Bhang), it still remains readily available through the country. Bhang shops are seen in various states openly selling cannabis in religious towns and cities. Ganja has been used for centuries in India, and considered a holy herb used for religious purposes. For decades, since the 1960's hippie era, foreigners have flocked to India sampling all types of ganja, hashish, bhang lassi, and hemp cakes. Of late, there has been rumours of clamping down of openly selling ganja based products by some state governments. How this will pan out or be controlled nobody knows, but in the meantime, bhang will certainly be around as it always has been within easy reach for those who use it daily for spiritual purposes.

solo overland travel India, wild weed India, image by Rick Hemi

Above, ganja weed is spread far and wide throughout India. Some weed is even used as barrier boundaries by locals with small vegetable field crops. It will eventually die off in the cold season, and then re-sprout again the following year. Authorities know weed grows rampant in certain regions, and ignore wild weed growth unless it's being cultivated, processed and smuggled elsewhere for profit. Legal weed India

solo overland travel India, sadhu chillum smoking, street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Street Photography - Follow The Rules Or Suffer!

overland travel India, Howrah bridge 1980's, classic image by Rick Hemi

Every country has different rules and regulations. India has a book load of them, with some regulations catching out foreign visitors, because of their own stupidity. I took this snap of a westerner positioned in elevation grabbing images on Howrah bridge which is illegal. Some foreigners who have been caught taking photos in prohibited areas have either been thoroughly interrogated, screamed at, fined, or in some instances have had their camera's confiscated.  This particular bridge in Howrah, Kolkata has clear visible signage every 30+ meters 'Strictly No Photography". Howrah bridge now has updated camera surveillance. It's up to the visitor to abide the warning signs. Some foreigners ignore warning signage, like this tourist above who prefers to take the risk of being caught, grilled and fined.
​Photography is forbidden in major railway stations, sensitive airport perimeters, military, navy and air force bases, sensitive border regions (including bridges) throughout the country. Taking  images of bridges at any angle off-bridges isn't an issue within none sensitive zones. Sensitive zones include the Indo-China border and Pakistan frontier.

solo overland travel India, street photography, rules and regulations photographing on bridges, image by Rick Hemi

Today, refrain capturing images at locations like above unless permission is granted to do so. Camera surveillance with endless amounts of warning signs are visibly seen on both sides of this historical bridge. Back in the 80's, the rules were more relaxed and not enforced. Indian street police do come down hard on their own citizens breaking the law, so the best advice for foreigners is to also follow the law.

cropped image snap by Rick Hemi

Two Must Haves - India

solo overland travel India, lock stuff up or lose it, images by Rick Hemi

Shaft bolts are still used in many hotels throughout India. Using your own personal heavy duty lock will guarantee baggage and belongings won't disappear from rooms. Baggage during train journeys should be hidden out of sight. A simple solution to hang or dry out clothes and washing on the go is with hiking bootlaces tied together across a room. ​

solo overland travel India, two must have essentials, images by Rick Hemi

Feeling Drained? - Electrolyte Fix

solo overland travel India, diarrhoea quick-fix India, Electrobion ORS sachets, diarrhoea, nausea, fatigue, vomiting, lethargy, image by Rick Hemi

Rehydration salts : Fatigue : Lethargy : Nausea : Vomiting : Rapid heart rate :  Diarrhoea : Constipation fix.

There's nothing worse than feeling totally drained, which happens to many foreigners visiting India. The first signs and symptoms are usually fatigue and lethargy. One of many Oral Rehydration salts that can be purchased through the country, is Electrobion shown above. One sachet mixed with a liter of water and guzzled down in one hit will take almost immediate effect. Traveling with a few extra sachets is recommended through the summer months down in the tropical lowlands where 40C+ temps is normal.

solo overland travel India, summer months, tropical lowlands heat, image by Rick Hemi

On The Go - Indian Rail

overland transit India, duranto express executive class rail, images by Rick Hemi

Super express trains are commonly used for daily transit journeys covering approximately 200-300 Km. These trains have the option of luxury 2+2 executive class with fully adjustable reclining seats, spacey leg room, ample overhead baggage space, wide frame viewing windows, and freezing AC.

solo overland travel train transit India, image by Rick Hemi

Indian railways has you covered in any direction chosen covering over 115,000 kilometers. The Vivek Express from Dibrugarh to Kanyakumari is still the longest non-stop train journey in India covering 4,235 kilometers with 80 scheduled stops, and taking a total of 80 hours (3.3 days). Early bookings are necessary for a 2nd class 2 tier AC sleeper birth. For more privacy a 1st class sleeper will be double the price. Those running on tight budgets across the country have the choice of using the 3 tier non AC sleeper class which will certainly give any foreigner the feel and touch of the Indian rush. Although train fares have risen considerably in the last two years, it still remains the cheapest mode of transport in the country.

solo overland travel India train travel and transit, images by Rick Hemi

Train classes vary differently with comfort and cost: 1st class AC 2 Tier, 2nd class AC  2 & 3 Tier, Non AC 3 Tier or seat.

solo overland travel Indian railways, Kolkata-Jaisalmer, Dibrugarh-Kanyakumari, Jammu Tawi-Kanyakumari, Agartala-Bangalore, Mangalore-Jammu, image by Rick Hemi

Blast From The Past - Indian Rail 1980s

Sorry guys, you'll be hard scratched riding onboard steam trains like below in the 2020s. Coal powered steam trains were in full swing during the 80's throughout India. A rarely seen image today, I captured in transit onboard another steamer during a 2nd visit to India during the 1980s. The only heritage steamers left operating, is the toy train from Darjeeling to Ghum, and the fairy express from Delhi to Alwar.

solo overland travel India, 1980s Indian steam train, image by Rick Hemi

Motor Cycle Across India - Total Freedom!

solo overland travel India, MC Royal Enfield motorbikes, images by Rick Hemi

Got plenty of time on your hands? Are you looking for the maximum freedom possible through India? Purchasing your own Royal Enfield is the ultimate choice for travelling throughout India. One can either rent on a weekly or monthly rate, but purchasing your own MC isn't hard to do. This will suit those with long duration multiple entry visas who have endless amounts of time to slowly travel across India at their own pace.

overland travel and transit India, MC royal enfield, images by Rick Hemi

Most cities and towns through the country have used Royal Enfields for sale. Price will depend on the year and condition of any MC and how much the seller is willing to let it go for. Shopping around will normally give the option of a few different models within a price ranging from 50K - 150K Indian rupees. Older kick start models are cheaper. Parts supply isn't an issue no-matter where one rides in India. One can also leave bikes in storage and reuse them on future visits to India.

solo overland travel India, refurbished 350cc Royal Enfield, images by Rick Hemi Dec. 2022

Clean total refurbished mid 1990s Royal Enfield 350 bullet. Approximate rebuild time - 1 month. Aprox. asking price - 90k rupees. 

India overland travel and transit, royal enfield India, image by Rick Hemi

A valid international driver's license with an original drivers license is required in India. It's now compulsory to request an Indian drivers license and medical health check. Road insurance isn't obligatory, but recommended. A full on MC road journey through India is as long as you want it to last.

solo overland travel India, 350cc MC bullet images by Rick Hemi

Roadside street images of 350cc MC bullets in rebuild stages and service repair. Using older non-electronic carburetor Royal Enfields across India should have fresh engine and tranny oil, new points, condenser, coil, spark plugs, carb kit, clutch, throttle and clutch cables, tires and drive chain. Traveling with a small tool kit comes in handy for quick fix repairs. In general, 350cc bullets will get you through India without major issues. Getting a punctured tire and running out of gas are the common problems that may occur.          

solo overland travel India, 350cc Royal Enfield, street image by Rick Hemi

Road stops through India are numerous, like this Himalayan chill out where bikers stop for hot chai and snacks en-route to Leh.

solo overland travel India, MC road journey, image by Rick Hemi

Street Interacting - It's Waiting For You

solo travel India, street interaction, random street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

If you're into street photography like I am, and enjoy interacting with total strangers, the streets of India will give anyone that option hands down, all day, non-stop till you're worn out! Having an open friendly attitude, including the art of patience, good humor, together with basic skills to interact will certainly be rewarding for those traveling throughout the country. Image captured using a Nikon 12 MP D3 & AF 28mm f/1.4D lens.

India random street photography, solo travel overland India, image by Rick Hemi

India - Street Photographer's Paradise

random street photography India, overland travel India, images by Rick Hemi

It doesn't matter where you come from, India will eventually wear you out in one way or another. It can be the hustle and bustle, the erratic street chaos, the non-stop horn honking, the heat, the push and shove, the endless streets of traffic, the noise, the dust, the glares and stares, the constant daytime rush is untameable, feel it, enjoy it - It's India.    

overland travel India, street portrait, location shot

Don't come to India traveling without a camera - smart phone cameras are not cameras - Got it?  

Picture

A large part of the journey through India is capturing random street snaps of locals - not dreaded selfies!

solo overland travel India, eastern states, village portrait, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Tribal children from the interior region of northern Nagaland. Getting to this district is a mission in itself, which takes four days of train, bus, truck and jeep transit from Kolkata. Due to the sensitivity of Nagaland state, all foreigners need to register on arrival at the local police station in Kohima, and also further north in Mon township. Both Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh contain their own tribal and community groups.

solo overland travel and transit India, highland framers, image by Rick Hemi

Local highland farmers from the mountainous regions of Himachal Pradesh graze their stock within the most rugged regions of the state during the summer months.

India overland travel, random street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Casually strolling through streets allows the chances of capturing random close up street snaps of locals using positive interaction.

India overland travel, mela festival, image by Rick Hemi

Festivals across India are plentiful and will wear most out after 3-4 days of full-on activity. They are excellent venues with endless amounts of pilgrims to photograph and video. Accommodation is usually fully booked out well in advance. Having your own tent, or sleeping under the stars on a mat are optional. Going with a few others will help rotate one person watching over belongings at locations. ​

solo overland travel India, street portrait, image by Rick Hemi

Konyak Naga Villages - Mon Region

Konyak Naga image by Rick Hemi
Nagaland, Mon district Konyak village locations, image map by Rick Hemi

If you're looking for a taste of adventure in tribal territory, look no further than the border region of northern Nagaland. The Hornbill festival held each year outside Kohima is well known among locals and foreigners. Heading further north to Mon district will blow your mind. Transport north to Mon is basic and rough. Dirt road tracks make the transit journey something to remember for years. Mon district has ample villages well worth visiting to keep anyone busy for a month or more. It's customary to give tribal leaders at each village visit complementary gifts like tea or coffee. This gives the opportunity to capture Naga portraits without issues. Interaction plays an important role in this region.

solo overland travel India, northern Nagaland, Naga konyaks, headhunters India, images by Rick Hemi

Konyak Nagas in general stick to themselves within their own village communities. It's common at day break to spot a group of young Nagas with flintlock rifles on wild game hunts. One can also be lucky enough to share the company with the last generation of Konyak headhunters, who still have their distinctive full facial tattoos. Be prepared to be invited into dwellings sipping on hot tea with plenty of chit chat. Leaving Mon district is via the Sonari border with Assam. Registration is required by all nationals with police on arrival and departure in the Mon district region.

Overland travel India, street photography tribal lands India, image by Rick Hemi

Random Street Portraits - No Problem

solo overland travel India, tribal images India, DSLR images by Rick Hemi

Two tribal images from both sides of India spanning 2770 kilometers. Both subjects were individually spotted within their own environs on the street. Positive interaction using full frame DSLR photo gear with fixed primes were used (manual AIS & AFS lenses).

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Random street capture, a colorful Bihari woman with hazel colored eyes. A small amount of interaction time with the subject produced this image. I personally still use DSLR full frame prime lenses capturing street images. If you're happy with whatever camera gear you're using - why change if it produces good images?

India solo overland travel and transit, street photography, DSLR street image by Rick Hemi

The ease of street photography in India is partially due to the large extent of social media sharing in the country. Almost every Indian have cell phones and are accustomed like anywhere else on the planet taking selfies. Indians have outward extroverted personalities which makes it even easier to photograph them. Breaking shyness into bursts of laughter, or to capture a serious look depends on the amount of interaction time with individual subjects.

overland India, solo travel India, street portrait India, image by Rick Hemi

There's endless random street portraiture throughout India. One only needs to walk in and around villages and through cities finding them. The chances capturing great subjects is virtually guaranteed. An example, the above street portrait was taken by interacting and chit chat.  Being polite showing her the images, I was invited into her dwelling meeting other family members enjoying chai and snacks.  

solo overland travel India, DSLR Nikon D3 street portrait India, image by Rick Hemi

Indians with colored eyes can be spotted on the street in a flash. The majority of the population have brown eyes, but if you're lucky,  there's a sudden chance of coming across locals with emerald, or hazel colored eyes. Two locations known for locals with colored eyes are Rajasthan and Bihar.
The above random street portrait was taken in West Bengal, captured with a Nikon 800mm f/5.6 AIS manual focus lens (1986-05) attached to a D3 12MP Nikon body (2007-2011). The image shows that you don't require all the latest photo gear, or large amounts of megapixels to produce good images. 
  

overland travel India, street photography, street portrait India, image by Rick Hemi

Taking close up street portraits like above requires interacting with subjects first. The image was captured with an 85mm prime lens.

solo travel India, random street snaps India, image by Rick Hemi

Never let closeup street portraits go to waste. The above image was captured using a 28mm prime lens. That's close as on can get with full frame DSLR gear. Below, portrait of a local from Tamil Nadu. A quick definition of trance state is when one loses one's body consciousness, and enters into the world of deep absorption into the subconscious mind.

overland travel India, Tamil Nadu street portrait, image by Rick Hemi

Water Shots - Ghats-Street & Estuaries

solo overland travel India, street photography India, solo travel India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

In India wherever there's water - there's action and activity. From street hand pumps and rivers to any coastal shoreline, Indians from all ethnic groups have their own individual needs drawing them to water sources. The best time for water activity is through the summer months in the early morning or late afternoons. 

overland travel India, summer heat cool off, image by Rick Hemi

When pre-monsoon heat becomes unbearable, a running water supply is where locals grab a quick soak out too cool off.   

solo overland travel India, riverside summer cool off, image by Rick Hemi

Splash capture into the Ganga during pre-monsoon heat. Images like these can easily be captured down at most ghats.  

solo travel and transit India, street photography, shoreline dunk and wash, image by Rick Hemi

Locals bathing and washing along the shoreline is witnessed along most coastal regions of India. Small fishing village communities are good locations to photograph local lifestyles and culture. There's nothing better than having an ocean soak-off during pre-monsoon season. It's normal for temperatures to soar well into the high forties before the rains arrive.  

solo overland travel India, Ganga ghat, Sadhu wash, image by Rick Hemi

Capturing images of Sadhus when washing is simple enough. Just head on down to any public Ghat and find them. The above image was captured in Varanasi. Nikon full frame DSLR and prime lens. The image below was captured by chance down a side street. A local taking a dip under a water tank truck filling station outlet. In the 2020s, some street photographers laugh at those using old 12MP DSLR cameras. The image suggests that it really doesn't matter what camera body the image was captured with. It's the quality lens being used - Got It? And like the majority of images through this website, most are only low res uploads only. Below, a Nikon D3 12 MP body captured this shot.

solo overland travel India, street photography India, Nikon DSLR D3 India, image by Rick Hemi

Coastal Shoreline - India

overland travel India, coastal images by Rick Hemi

Above, typical coastal scenes, a fishing village family clan crowding around net catches of assorted fish along the Indian coastline. The simplicity of grabbing snaps along Indian coastlines, is the abundance of small fishing communities scattered along it. Early morning or late afternoon are the best times when local fishermen return with boat loads of fish. Some catches are sorted directly on beaches.

overland travel India 2020s, coast to coast India 2020s, DSLR images by Rick Hemi

The ease of purchasing fresh caught fish directly off boats can be done anywhere along Indian coastlines. Local fishing boats return daily during incoming high tide. Self-chopping, filleting fish grilled over hot coals becomes a daily habit at shoreline locations. Best fish — Tuna & Barramundi.  

overland travel India, river silhouette, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Silhouette captures like above will keep most street photographers busy through India during the summer months.

overland travel India, bay of Bengal coastline, image by Rick Hemi

Often, many ask what's my favorite country for photography. Without doubt, India is right up there for many reasons. 1: Each day is completely different to the next. 2: Finding locals and subject matter to photograph is endless. 3: Interaction levels with locals is relatively simple. 4: Urban street photography is rewarding. 5: Rural lowlands of India are diverse as it gets.  6: Festivals abound throughout the year. 7: Wildlife and nature is overflowing.  8: Highland mountain landscape is mind blowing. 9: The access to regions @4000 meters plus altitude during winter. 10: Ample tribal areas within isolated corners of the country.  11: Transportation still hasn't lost its chaotic charm. 12: Indians in general enjoy being photographed. 13: Food street markets are photographically entertaining. 14: Coastline activity has its own ambience.

overland travel and transit India, coastal shoreline India, get the shot India, image by Rick Hemi

Indian fishermen based along rugged coastlines manually set sail without the need of wharves or docks — DSLR prime image

solo overland travel India, local fishermen within the Sundarban tiger national park, image by Rick Hemi

The above fisherman were setting their nets within swamp tiger territory. The danger of being attacked by tigers is common occurrence for crab catchers, honey bee collectors and fishermen in the Sundarbans. Below, couples are occasionally spotted working together in union. An early morning snap captured this pair pulling up their net with a catch. Image, full frame DSLR D3S 12MP & AFS zoom lens.

solo overland travel India, sundarban coastline India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Highland Wilderness - Isolation Freedom

solo overland travel India, rugged highland landscape, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

When it becomes boiling hot down on the lowlands, any of the mountainous regions nestled up along the Himalaya are perfect retreats to cool off, hike, trek, and chill for a few months. Leh, Manali, Darjeeling, and Gangtok are just a few out of numerous mountainous locations worth visiting.

solo overland travel India, the high road India, midwinter escape India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Above, high rugged mountain terrain covered in a blanket of midwinter snow. There were only a handful of people visting this region at the time this image was taken. Tempertures during the day averaged minus -15C and dropped to minus -33C during the night.Those looking for extreme isolated getaways in India only need to head north overland to the Himalayan region - during midwinter. 

offshore travel wilderness freedom, India highlands, image by Rick Hemi

Many different types of landscape topography formations can be seen throughout India. Some of the most spectacular formations are within the high altitude regions of Ladakh and Spiti valley. The best time traveling through these areas is before, or after the winter months have finished. Road closures commence as early as October, and remain closed until April. Reaching Spiti valley during winter is via the Shimla-Rampur-Rekong Peo-Tabo route. Road closures during mid-winter are normal due to snow drift, rock fall and avalanches.

overland travel India, Himachal Pradesh highlands, image by Rick Hemi

Above, the escape to rugged barren highland landscape in Himachal Pradesh. Isolated villages, and monasteries are seen nestled through valley regions on and along mountain passes. One certainly needs time and patience to hike, trek, and absorb the serenity and beauty of this wilderness plateau through the summer months.

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Waking up to icy frosted windows becomes reality in the Indian Himalaya. Most isolated towns above 3800 metres are with limited or no power during midwinter. Traveling through midwinter up and above 3500 meters altitude requires thermal clothing.

solo overland travel offshore, Indian highland wilderness, image by Rick Hemi

Indian highland wilderness is never too far from the sweltering plains below. The choices of free camping and hiking where one wishes is spread through high altitude states and provinces. The chances of spotting snow leopards is still possible within regions of Kashmir, Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh and Sikkim. Permits and entry fees are usually required to camp within national parks with varying charge rates from state to state.  

solo overland travel India, Himalayan highlands, image by Rick Hemi

Views of the Himalayan chain from Darjeeling and Gangtok are spectacular with Kanchenjunga easily recognised from its 8586 elevation. When the heat becomes unbearable through the pre-moonsoon season, many retreat up to Darjeeling to cool off. Sikkim state is also close-by with road transport from either Darjeeling or New Jalpaiguri (NJP) direct to Gangtok.

solo overland travel India, midwinter sunrise Kanchenjunga, image by Rick Hemi

Above, midwinter sunrise Kanchenjunga. All foreign nationals require permits to visit Sikkim, which is easily obtained in Kolkata, Darjeeling or at the Sikkim West Bengal crossing.

solo overland travel and transit India, Himalaya midwinter to Hikkim, image by Rick Hemi

Above, Malling Nala, Himachel Pradesh (3680M 12074ft). Passing through wild rugged high altitude landscape changes dramatically from season to season. One of the most spectacular overland road trips with endless panoramic views is,  the road journey to Kaza during peak midwinter. Snow clad mountains, frozen river beds, and cliff-top icicles en-route are part and package of this particular destination.. January is recommended to experience the full bite of winter's wrath through Spiti Valley. Average mid-winter day temps are minus -10C, falling to minus -35C during the night. Freezing subzero temperatures and heavy snow fall literally turns Kaza into a ghost town from December to February. The majority of hotels, and other accommodation are closed for business, due to frozen water pipes and random power-cuts. On the last winter visit to Kaza, room temperatures were @ minus -9C during the day. Layered thermo clothing is essential, including back-up battery supplies for photo gear.

solo overland travel India, west Bengal highlands, image by Rick Hemi

Below, the road to Kaza. The only way of reaching Kaza overland during midwinter is via Shimla. Foreigners require inline travel permits.

solo overland travel India, Kaza highlands, image by Rick Hemi

Highland Skies - Crystal Clear

solo overland travel India, Himalaya astro, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

India has an abundance of different regions to capture the night sky. The mountainous regions of West Bengal, Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, and the desert environs in Gujarat are just a few places having open spaces with clear open views of astro and the Milky Way rising moving across the night skyline. A camera and tripod using delay timer settings is required for hands free captures avoiding vibration. Below, lunar shot captured in the highlands - Nikkor 800 5.6 ED-IF AIS manual focus lens, D3S 12 MP body. This is what smart phone camera users can never do in their wildest dreams. Going offshore? - Use real camera gear!

solo overland travel India, clear sky moonshot, image by Rick Hemi

Sunrise Sunsets - India

solo overland travel India, sunset snaps, images by Rick Hemi

It's certainly not difficult capturing sunsets in India. Just head on out the door an hour before the sun disappears below the horizon. Depending on location i.e. coastal, urban sprawl, or rural, the sun's visibility will display different colors due to dust, pollution and atmospheric haze. These images were captured in different regions through the country.        

solo overland travel India, misty morning sunrise India, image by Rick Hemi

Capturing early morning misty winter images like above can cause lens fogging. Placing photo gear in the same temperature environment a few hours before will normally cease internal fogging. If lenses contain dust particles inside on optics, the possibility of fungus growth can happen. Lens fogging dampness should be avoided, if not, it only takes humid weather to increase full blown fungus spores inside lenses.  

solo travel India, sunset captures India, DSLR sunsets India, image by Rick Hemi

 Indian sunsets are almost hypnotizing. These images were captured using DSLR photo gear - not junky phone cameras.  

India solo travel, overland India, sunset India, image by Rick Hemi

Traveling with some form of photo gear, no matter the brand, through India is required to capture satisfactory images. One doesn't go fishing, hiking or hunting with the wrong stuff. Some up market point and shoots will do the job, although DSLR camera gear will get the shots every time. Above, DSLR full frame 800mm AIS prime lens.

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Waking up just before daylight to visualize picturesque dawns like above depends on the density of cloud cover. Within under a minute this colorful view completely vanished never to reappear again while staying at the same location for two weeks. As the saying goes, never miss opportunities to capture shots.

solo travel India, sunset snap, image by Rick Hemi

Below, onboard a bush boat within the Sundarbans captured this sunrise snap — DSLR D3S, AFS 200-400 f4 VRII @ f9 ISO 3200 1/4000 Sec   

solo overland travel India, Sundarban sunrise, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Ghats - DSLR Snaps

India overland travel, street snaps, images by Rick Hemi

Street photography through India requires more than just using smart phone cameras. Minimum required for 3-6 months travel is a quality digital point & shoot, 4/3, or even better, a reliable DSLR camera with a few lenses.  

India solo overland travel, ghat group shot, image by Rick Hemi

On recent journeys through India, I've observed other tourists photographing Indians and found one common thing with most of them. Foreigners use zoom lenses to capture their snaps keeping their distance well away from subjects. This is fine in certain situations. Personally, I do the complete opposite when subjects look intriguing. I will normally get up as close as possible using fixed focal prime lenses using positive interaction with subjects.

overland travel India, street photography India, street portraits India, solo travel India, image by Rick Hemi

The above image looks as if was taken relatively close-up. It was captured from 50+ meters using a Nikon AFS 200-400mm f/4 G VRII @400mm mounted on a tripod. It was re-cropped to 1/6th of its original size. 

overland travel India, random washing ghat photo, image by Rick Hemi

Capturing images of locals at washing ghats using lenses with enough reach without disturbing subjects is what most do. With a little positive interaction, one can capture close up single and group subjects.

overland travel India, street portrait, image by Rick Hemi

Street photographers use their own technique how to grab the attention of subjects to look in the right direction.

overland travel India, Ghat group shot Varanasi, image by Rick Hemi

There's no excuse capturing random street and ghat portraits, the only requirement are basic interaction skills with strangers.

solo overland travel India, sadhu closeup, image by Rick Hemi

Bird & Wildlife - In The Wild

overland travel India, wildlife,  images by Rick Hemi

Some form of photo gear is required within wildlife parks and sanctuaries in India to capture satisfying images.. Most wildlife spotted are usually at long distance which can be normally captured using a telephoto and zoom lenses from 200-500mm. Smaller bird parks through the migratory season like the Kulick bird sanctuary will get you very close to open bill storks hatching their eggs.

solo overland travel India, bird and wildlife India, DSLR images by Rick Hemi

Larger wildlife parks use their own open air transport trucks, which may or may not give good results on any particular day. Returning to the same locations several times may be rewarding spotting Bengal tigers, leopards, and panthers close-by napping up trees. At the end of the day, it's timing and luck that counts. Don't expect smart phone cameras to give satisfactory image results when cropped and enlarged.

overland travel India, in the wild, wildlife images by Rick Hemi

Grabbing snap captures like above is done by using long reach prime lenses. Getting up close to these guys is difficult on the best of days, including capturing straight directional shots due to location terrain.

solo overland travel India, bird and wildlife India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

One from many varieties of Kingfisher through India. Other known Kingfisher are as follows — Common Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis), Crested Kingfisher (Megaceryle lugubris), Black-capped Kingfisher (Halcyon pileata), Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher (Ceyx erithaca), Brown-winged Kingfisher (Pelargopsis amauroptera), Collared Kingfisher (Todiramphus chloris), Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis), Blyth's Kingfisher (Alcedo hercules), Blue-eared Kingfisher (Alcedo meninting), Ruddy Kingfisher (Halcyon coromanda), Stork-billed Kingfisher (Pelargopsis capensis).

overland travel India, wilderness wildlife photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Getting close-up images of large carnivores requires time and patience. Wherever there's a carcass, or a feeding ground is where eagles and vultures gather feasting together. Both captures above were taken at distance without disturbing their location. The enjoyment of watching and photographing birds of prey in the wild is possible in northern India during the winter months.

solo overland travel India, open bill stork silhouette, image by Rick Hemi

Silhouettes snaps are simple. Depending on the amount of light, a tripod may be necessary to eliminate shake and blur. Image, open bill stork eastern India.

overland travel India, wildlife bengal tiger, image by Rick Hemi

Spotting Bengal Tigers in national parks depends on location and movement of these big cats on the actually day entering any park. Local park guides are usually familiar where tigers are situated. There's no guarantee to get up close, unless tigers are near road sides or at watering holes. One can be fortunate enough spotting big cats through the day at any of the major wildlife parks. A second or even third visit to the same park may be required. Above snap, Nikon SLR roll film 1980s.

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Finding, spotting and tracking Sundarban swamp tigers within their habitat is like finding gold nuggets in rivers. A lot depends on the boat helmsman — Beware of local rip-off guides, who've more interest selling excursions with inflated travel packages to the watchtowers with promises of swamp tiger sightings. Instead, find an experienced bush boat crew specializing in wildlife spotting. I had booked a three night, four day excursion that included basic sleeping space below deck, a great cook, engine man, and helmsman. Having the entire bush boat to yourself was a good choice. No clutter of other people's junk, no people blocking your view, and best of all minimal noise. More on the Sundarbans further down the page.          

solo overland travel India, sunderbans India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Spotting and photographing swamp tigers in the Sundarbans, is much more difficult than in safari parks. The above image capture was one of three separate sighting locations over a four day period. It's all about luck getting up close to swamp tigers. An example, was a BBC film crew taking 25 days (600 hours) to spot one swamp tiger. Image (low res cropped for web) — Nikon 2012 D800 in manual mode, Nikkor 800 5.6 ED AIS 1986 manual focus lens — wide open. 

solo overland travel wildlife India, steppe eagle image by Rick Hemi

I'm still a classic Nikon lens user, images captured with a Nikkor 800mm f/5.6 ED-IF AI-S. Most photographers today prefer auto-focus lenses, and wouldn't dare carry such long heavy lenses through India. Actually, the 800mm AIS 5.5kg lens has criss-crossed India, Nepal and Bangladesh using overland basic transport several times without issues.

overland travel India, migratory birds, sarus crane take-off, wildlife India, image by Rick Hemi

Wildlife parks and sanctuaries are scattered far and wide in India. Gujarat to the north eastern states. Local species of wildlife remain in their habitat locations, and spotted all year round. Migratory birds arriving from other continents come by the thousands through the start of the winter months as early as October, and remain till late March. Large cats like snow leopards and Bengal tigers can be seen within certain isolated regions, although timing and the amount of days within one area photographing large cats must be taken into consideration. Above, a Sarus crane long shot in take-off mode amongst whistling ducks, painted storks and herons, Rajasthan.

overland travel India, wildlife photography India, vultures, steppe eagles India, images by Rick Hemi

Above, a mixed group of Steppe Eagles and Griffon Vultures sharing the same tree waiting to feed on a carcass. They can be spotted within wildlife parks, or in the northern regions of India. Sikkim also has numerous wildlife sanctuaries. One requires long lenses that can reach out to capture images like above. More overland travel wildlife images can be seen here and the photo gear page may be worth a look. Vultures, eagles and snow leopards can be spotted within the Indian Himalayan region, although flocks of vultures are harder to spot unless a food source attracts them to a certain location. It's actually more luck, and by chance to photograph vultures and eagles feeding on carcasses along highway road routes. ​The first signs of any feeding frenzy by carnivore birds, is by their circular rotation in the sky. Using a pair of binoculars scouting locations is beneficial to pin point drop landing zones. My Indian midwinter overland Himalaya highland journey to photograph snow leopards will give some overland travel inspiration.

solo overland travel India, wildlife snow leopards midwinter India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

If luck is on your side during midwinter, snow leopards can be spotted wading through virgin snow. With some patience, getting up-close to these "grey ghosts" is possible in Ladakh and Spiti Valley regions. Don't expect snow leopards to be roaming around in droves - they are listed as an endangered spices. Tracking, spotting and visually seeing Snow Leopards within their habitat is a rewarding experience. A set of binoculars, good photo-gear, and a reliable 4WD, including warm clothing to handle sub-zero temps between -10C to -25C is required in mid-winter season.​
Snow leopards are not like their big cat cousins, the Bengal tiger, that randomly attack devouring humans. Snow leopards still have an abundance of different wildlife to hunt, catch and feed from. There hasn't been one report of a human being attacked by these high altitude cats. Most times when out spotting, and photographing snow leopards, they're evasive keeping their distance. The best season spotting and photographing snow leopards is during midwinter in extremely cold subzero temps in the double digits.

overland travel India, midwinter snow leopards India, images by Rick Hemi

From the Himalaya highlands down to the flat lands, Indian wildlife has remained abundant due to the carpet banning wildlife hunting act created in 1972. The ultimate months photographing Indian wildlife at wetlands, sanctuaries, and national parks, is between November through to March. Photo gear is required (not smartphone cameras).    

solo overland travel India, photographing wildlife India, saras cranes image by Rick Hemi

The Sundarbans - Bird & Wildlife

solo overland travel India, swamp tiger territory, images by Rick Hemi

Swamp tiger tracks taken at different locations through zones 5 and 6. Fresh pugs may give the opportunity of spotting tigers within a 10 kilometer radius. Even with fresh tracks, nothing is guaranteed. Tigers swimming across from one island to another can hide themselves from shorelines out of sight for days on end. It's all about luck, timing and being at the right location on any given day.  

solo overland travel India, sundarban swamp tiger track, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Tracking and spotting swamp tigers begins by looking for fresh pug imprints and droppings. The above pug imprints were discovered halfway along a small narrow canal in zone 6.   

solo overland travel India, Sundarbans tiger zones, map image by Rick Hemi

Zoning regions within the tiger reserve. Although with three successful sightings at three different locations in four days, doesn't necessarily guarantee tigers will remain at the same locations from the previous days.    

sundarban bird and wildlife long shot image snaps by Rick Hemi

The majority of canals within the zoned regions of the Sundarbans are wide. Long shot captures of certain bird and wildlife cannot be avoided. It's up to the individual to know the limitations of their camera gear in advance. Camera lenses 400mm up are recommended.      

solo overland travel India, sundarbans west bengal, canal image by Rick Hemi

The majority of canals through the Sundarbans are similar in width with most boats cruising at slow speed along one side and up the other. With a good helmsman and compatible guide, and using your own binoculars the spotting of local bird and wildlife is certainly possible. Beware, some guides are more interested in their own personal photography scorecard forgetting what they're being paid to do — To service spotting wildlife for passengers keeping out of the way allowing clear viewing during the journey, choice wisely.       

solo overland travel India, Sundarbans India, swamp tiger region India, map by Rick Hemi

Most who've researched and decided to visit the Sunderbans will no doubt use one of the above two jetty locations. I personally used the Jharkhali jetty for quicker access into tiger zones 4, 5, 6 and 7. This depends on the guide of which jetty and boat crew is used (helmsman, engine man, cook). Choose your guide and boat crew wisely. It's recommended and good advice to spend a few days down at the jetty asking other visitors of their daily experience prior before embarking any excursion trip.

solo overland travel India, Jharkhali jetty Sundarbans, image by Rick Hemi

Most visitors, Indian and foreign will usually return to land based accommodation each evening, and return the following morning continuing their journey. The choice of renting the entire boat and remaining onboard, is by far the best option. Gopal, the helmsman dropped anchor just after dark out in the estuary each evening well away from the jetty.

solo overland travel India, sundarban tiger region, Gopal boat helmsman, image by Rick Hemi

A good experienced crew is essential for the Sundarbans. Gopal wasn't just a first class helmsman, he was also an excellent tracker and spotter of local bird and wildlife within the swamp tiger sanctuary. All three crewman get a 10/10 rating. 

solo overland travel India, DSLR photo gear Sundarbans, images by Rick Hemi

Arriving to the Sundarbans without camera gear, is like going fishing without hooks and bait. The chances of capturing wildlife images up close, is done by using long range tele and zoom lenses. Above, my own photo gear and binoculars that have been reliable for many years still capturing stills in 2023. 

solo overland travel India, Sundarbans west Bengal, images by Rick Hemi

Example snaps (low res only) of what can be easily captured from distance using full frame DSLR camera gear.

solo overland travel India, Sundarbans India, images by Rick Hemi

Use your camera gear capturing as many subjects and landscape possible. The next journey to the Sundarbans maybe years away. 

solo overland travel India, marsh snake sundarbans, image by Rick Hemi

The one and only snake seen over four days, a marsh snake moving slowly along the canal bank heading towards dry bushland.

solo overland travel India, sundarbans west Bengal India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Spotted deer are seen through early morning and late afternoons. A doe captured with a full frame 12MP body @600mm in DX mode.

solo overland travel India, Sundarban swamp tiger fever, behind the scenes location image by Rick Hemi

Behind the scene at one location, three other boats jostling around for space with enough noise scaring swamp tigers over to Bangladesh. This is swamp tiger fever after seven hours with zero sightings. Tour guides on these boats were screaming above 100 DB in their excitement drowning out any consideration of calm scaring this particular tiger back into bushland. This is why renting your own boat makes more sense avoiding this important issue. Being the first boat at locations spotting and photographing tigers before other boats arrive, is paramount for peace and quiet.   

solo overland travel India, swamp tiger sundarbans, images by Rick Hemi

Swamp tigers are evasive at the best of times. When spotted, don't hesitate taking as many images of them as possible while on the move. It could end up being the only sighing. As previously mentioned, some have spent seven full days through the Sundarban tiger reserve without even seeing pug marks let alone image snaps like above and below.

swamp tiger sundarbans, image by Rick Hemi

If you're serious, a minimum three nights, four day excursion renting the entire boat for yourself allows enough time to track, spot and capture photographs of swamp tigers. You may get quick glimpses of these big cats roaming through jungle and swimming across canals. Below example, a distant long shot snap of a swamp tiger in top gear crossing a canal. The tiger was barely visible. There's no time changing camera settings. Pointing the lens at the front of the water trail and shoot — full frame DSLR @600mm DX mode, f4, 1/8000 Sec, ISO 2200    

solo overland travel India, sundarbans India, swamp tiger canal crossing, long shot DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Full on frontal swamp tiger shots like below, is what everyone dreams about. Avoid wasting time at the watchtowers. Capturing images from high angle viewing points will end up in disappointment. Below (low res web image) using full frame DSLR photo gear. A 2012 Nikon D800 in manual mode and 1986 Nikkor 800 5.6 ED AIS manual focus lens — wide open captured this swamp tiger in 2023 — how about that? f5.6, 1/5000 Sec, ISO 1600. One of three sightings at three different locations over a four day period.  

solo overland travel India, sundarbans west Bengal India, swamp tiger sundarbans, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Coolies - Street Captures

overland travel India, street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Coolies can be spotted in and around vegetable and produce markets. They're known to lift and carry loads of up to 1 tonne (6-8 coolies together). The image captures were taken from a distance using the aid of a tripod which is recommended for various types of street photography in busy bustling areas. Finding a location to set up  a tripod can be a mission for the right viewing angles, but in most cases it is possible. A tripod will usually enable a 360 degree hands free rotation resulting with crisp tack sharp images.  

solo overland travel India, street photography India, random street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Getting up close photographing coolies will reward you with some great looking captures. The best time to find a bunch of them lifting and carrying heavy loads is usually around mid-morning outside market areas where trucks are off-loading their produce. Capturing portrait snaps of them on the fly between loads is possible, or even better during their smoko and lunch breaks.  

solo overland travel India, street coolie portrait, image by Rick Hemi

Highway Mahogany Trees - 200+ Years Old

overland travel India, age old mahogany trees, highway transit India, image by Rick Hemi

Some Indian highways have never been modified to accommodate the surge of today's traffic flow congestion. Two hundred year old plus mahogany trees stand proud along a busy interstate road. The display of their barrel diameters shows their massive size compared to freight trucks. Whether they remain there for another 200 years, or are taken out depends on local district government.

solo overland travel India, highway route, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Street Photography - Wear Yourself Out

overland travel India, DSLR photo gear, image by Rick Hemi

Capturing snaps within bustling market areas is like a gold mine. Indians from all walks of life pass through markets to shop, mingle, congregate, and fossick around. One place inside markets to get good results, is wherever a chai stall is. It's here where locals have time to sit, chat, sip on chai, and fire up smoking bidis.

solo overland travel India, Varanasi Ghats, image by Rick Hemi

A local artist with his brush finishing off the finer touches of his canvas - central ghats, Varanasi

solo overland travel India, street laneway photo, image by Rick Hemi

Small tight lane ways are buzzing with different atmosphere catches many unaware of what could suddenly materialize from one second to the next. A flock of sheep and goats heading to market down this particular lane way is certainly one of those memorable moments in real time. Capturing images like above are done if some form of photo gear is already in hand. A small part of the magical experience through Indian streets.

solo overland travel India, street snap, image by Rick Hemi

India is recognized as one of the top countries globally for all types of photography. It doesn't matter what your photographic fetishes are - India has it all. From random street captures, and festivals, colonial and cultural architecture, ancient historical sites, and desert landscape, including tribal zones, mountainous regions and wildlife spread across the country.The best time and season transiting through India is during the cooler months, from November through to February. If the heat isn't an issue, anytime of the year will work in your favor. Humidity before and during the monsoon season will harm camera lenses if not protected with silica gel, there's more in the photo gear page.

solo travel India, random street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Random Street Subjects

solo overland travel India, street portrait snaps India, images by Rick Hemi

I've returned to India countless times since the 80s, each journey with some form of camera gear. Those who visit and travel through the country find out quickly the value of carrying cameras with a few different lenses. Those solely relying on smart phone cameras will need to reevaluate the limitations of smart phone cameras.  

overland travel India, random ghat portrait snap, image by Rick Hemi

Coast to coast, north to south, India will keep street photographers busy capturing snaps of locals from sunrise to sunset.

solo overland travel India, side street random subject, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

A random side street subject captured using DSLR photo gear mounted on a tripod.

solo overland travel India, street portraits, random street portraits India, images by Rick Hemi

Random street photography in India will keep you busy all day and most of the night no matter what city, village, or region you're in. A normal procedure after taking close-up snaps of locals is to show the image capture before rushing off - which will be appreciated. There are instances, and encounters when some Indians will resent being photographed, which is usually recognized immediately and should be respected. Don't push your luck just because of wanting particular images of someone. If crossing the boundaries, expect an aggressive response back without mercy. In general, most Indians are very photogenic, and don't mind to be photographed. Personally, I've always found interacting first with locals is the key to capture candid street portraits of people no matter what country it is. ​

solo travel street photography India, image by Brian Thomas

Street photography through India still remains one of the top five countries for capturing street captures, if using positive interaction with locals. A six month visit through India clocks up faster than what most imagine.

solo travel India, street photography India, street portrait photography India

Random street portraits using direct dialogue and positive interaction with subjects works in India.  

overland travel India, street images by Rick Hemi

Street photography boils down to personal taste and inspiration of what one notices differently to their own lifestyle living. India contains almost every kind of aspect of street photography with minimal difficulty capturing it. Street scenes, cross traffic, side streets, markets and ghats are all great locations.

solo travel India, overland travel India, street scene India, image by Rick Hemi

Street scenes like above are scattered across the country, most within the vicinity near markets and railway stations.

India overland travel, image by Rick Hemi

Street photography begins at sun rise and continues endlessly through the day till sunset. Random street photography along bustling avenues and washing ghats will exhaust most photographers. Carrying extra SD/flash cards and back-up batteries is recommended to cover an entire day. Above, a local taking his daughter to school.

overland travel India, street snap India, image by Rick Hemi

A variety of lenses with different focal lengths is recommended for India. Some will disagree, but the majority of street photographers around the planet use their own pick of prime and zoom lenses.

India overland travel, Mela festival India, image by Rick Hemi

Earthen Pottery - Clay Cups & Urns

solo overland travel India, earthen pottery India, street images by Rick Hemi

Countless clay pottery designs are seen scattered across the country in all shapes and sizes. It's impossible not to spot a pile of stacked terracotta pots against walls, or spread along pavements near bustling market areas. Even when purchasing chai from street vendors, usually poured into mini clay cups. Fresh curd is also filled in clay vessels. Chai and curd vessels are generally used once and discarded.  

solo overland travel India, chai clay cups, image by Rick Hemi

Above, a load of clay chai cups out for delivery. Below, a selection of earthen pottery in all shapes and sizes.

solo travel overland India, earthen pottery India, vases and pottery India, image by Rick Hemi

Sipping on fresh hot brewed milk chai out of clay cups while enjoying the street vibe in India is pretty hard to beat. No wonder foreigners return countless times to India, even though some hate the noise level, the erratic hustle and bustle, and endless flow of traffic and people going in all directions. India contains every vibe imagined opposite to Western culture - Welcome to the real world.

solo overland travel India, hot milk chai in clay cups, street image by Rick Hemi

Kettle Pots - Clay Cups & Urns

overland travel India, kettle pots India, images by Rick Hemi

Other street photographers with out doubt cannot resist capturing numerous snaps of India's chai fetish. This is seen throughout the country of locals causally sipping on milk chai from clay cups, I personally prefer black tea with lemon and pepper.    

offhore solo overland travel, street chai India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

The abundance and usage of large cast iron and alloy kettles is nothing new to India. Classic designed kettles are still made and manufactured as they were 100 years ago with little alterations in sizes. Cast iron kettles are randomly spotted steaming on open fires in mountainous regions, and perched on various coal ranges within large cities and villages. 

overland travel India, cast iron kettle India, image by Rick Hemi

In general, Indians have had a long historical chai addiction, which makes it easy to understand why the ionic open fire kettle is still being used today. Coal and wood is locally sourced, although the switch to using gas is being implemented.

overland travel and transit India, hot coal milk chai brew India, images by Rick Hemi

Large cast iron pots are normally used for community and religious events, festivals and wedding ceremonies.

solo travel street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

The bigger the better, a super large cast iron pot being put to good use. Below, a typical morning street scene drinking chai. 

solo overland travel India, street chai, image by Rick Hemi

Below, a random snap of how street tea vendors prepare fresh pots of milk chai through the country.

street photography India, overland travel India, street chai India, image by Rick Hemi

Machine & Automotive Workshops

India overland travel, machine workshop, images by Rick Hemi

If you're into machine shop photography, then there's plenty of different types of workshops that can be found scattered throughout most cities in India. Small lathe and milling workshops are usually within the industrial areas of  town. This is also the same location where one can find automotive and welding repair workshops for trucks, buses, and cars. In some cases, asking permission to photograph is required. There are industrial sites that prohibit any type of photography, don't cross the line.

overland travel India, machine workshop, image by Rick Hemi

Capturing images like these are found on the outskirts of most towns. Doing an all day walk through city streets will almost guarantee stumbling across different workshops worth photographing. 

solo travel India, street photography India, small machine shops India, image by Rick Hemi

Small privately owned machine shops contain different types of ambience. Some have collected decades of history with the same original owners. Photography inside workshops is at the discretion of the owners depending if they have a workload quotas to finish. Returning at a later date can always be arranged. Large industrial workshops are impossible to enter without prior permission.

solo overland travel India, street photography India, machine workshop India, image by Rick Hemi

Entering into machine workshops while machinery is operating is entirely at your own risk.

India overland travel, street workshop, image by Rick Hemi

Below, welding can be seen at most automotive workshops where trucks, and trailer units are repaired. Usually, there are no restrictions to photograph welders in motion, although this will depend on each individual workshop. Wearing dark shades is advisable, and allowing ample free space for welders to continue working without disturbing their workflow. 

solo overland India, street snap truck repair India, image by Rick Hemi

Below, street mechanics play an integral role across India, the dismantling and renovation of engines, transmissions, and diffs from all types of vehicles is visibly seen usually found on the outskirts of cities.. Some of the easiest repair locations are in smaller villages close to highway junctions. With a small amount of interaction, images like below can be captured without issues. A round of chai for the mechanics will be appreciated. 

solo overland travel India, reconditioning engine rebuild, image by Rick Hemi

Below, locals in full swing flat out busy dismantling and replacing transmissions and diff parts on the outskirts of town.

solo overland travel India, street auto repair India, image by Rick Hemi

Authentic Leather Handcrafts

overland travel India, leather crafted shoes, image by Rick Hemi

Leather items like fashion foot wear and custom belts all have their own authentic designs through each state. A pair of custom handmade leather shoes can be made to order. If you're in to hand made leather work, then India probably has something that will catch your eye. 

Mount Everest Viewpoint - Sandakphu 3600M

overland travel India, hiking trekking India, sandakphu India, image by Rick Hemi

Trekking to Sandakphu is one of the quickest hikes in India to view the Himalayan mountains. At an elevation of 3636meters, Sandakphu summit gives spectacular panoramic views like an open amphitheater of the Himalayan chain This includes Mount Everest, the 3 sisters, Lantang and Kanchenjunga. Rising early before sunrise will give the clearest views before hazing occurs. Sandakphu is situated on the tri-borders of Sikkim, Nepal and India. The above snap of a local couple was taken at the summit in midwinter with Kanchenjunga in the background. A classic SLR roll film snap 1980s.

Cremation - Last Rites

overland travel India, cremation ghat, last rights, images by Rick Hemi

Cremation last rite rituals from various locations. Photographing from distant is recommended. 

solo overland travel India, last rites DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Visiting cremation ghats in Varanasi is a common event amongst foreigners. There are no issues watching last rites cremation process with a variety of different viewing points. Many take an early morning sunrise cruise along the Ganga passing close-by the main cremation ghat. One main issue with foreigners, are those who have no interest in the cremation process, and only visit briefly for five minutes grabbing sneaky snaps, and quickly cruise off. There is a local "mafia" who keep their eyes on those doing this. They do pounce on foreigners neglecting respect — Avoid being one of them!
The below image was taken with direct interaction with the family showing respect during the cremation process. Those wanting to capture full view photographs like this will first require to have dialogue and permission from family members. Being polite and respectful goes a long way.

solo overland travel India, Manikarnika ghat, Varanasi, image by Rick Hemi

Below, a local Dalit (low caste) loading cremated ash into a sifting pan at the main burning ghat in Varanasi. A daily rotating shift of Dalits share a portion of the gold and silver from each 24 hour cycle of cremated ash. The ash is panned on the edge of the Ganges beside the cremation area. The image shows a family with their deceased which was transported by boat about to prepare for the last rites (immersion and cremation). Note: Prior permission is normally required for foreigners to photograph within the vicinity of the main burning ghat. 

overland travel India, Dalits, cremation gold and silver panning, image by Rick Hemi

Below, an early morning long shot capture from across the Ganga, Nikkor 800mm 5.6 AIS manual focus lens.

India solo travel, overland travel India, long shot Varanasi ghat, image by Rick Hemi

Walkabout - Grabbing Snaps

solo travel India, walkabout street snaps India, images by Rick Hemi

Solo overland travel India, Everyday street snaps India, Random street photography India, capturing still snaps India, Get the shot India. 

solo travel India, street photography India, images by Rick Hemi

Solo overland travel India, Everyday street snaps India, Random street photography India, capturing still snaps India, Get the shot India. 

solo travel India, city street walks India, street photography India, images by Rick Hemi

Solo overland travel India, Everyday street snaps India, Random street photography India, capturing still snaps India, Get the shot India. 

overland travel India,  street portrait photography India, images by Rick Hemi

Solo city street walks begin just after daybreak. Getting out and about capturing street snaps all day depends how self-motivated one is. Every day is different to the next. The feel of the Indian rush is in full swing 10am onward.

solo overland travel India, random side street snaps India, images by Rick Hemi

Manual paper and egg delivery by pushbike is still common practice through the country in the 2020s.

overland travel India, random street photography, image by Rick Hemi

Getting out and about at dawn especially during the winter months becomes an everyday event for those who have an interest in street photography. Finding different subjects to capture depends on personal preferences at designated locations.  

solo overland travel India, washing ghat India, image by Rick Hemi

A common event seen along the river banks throughout India are locals earning a wage washing clothes for customers. Ghat washing is usually by beating clothes, carpets, and linen to death, and then sun drying everything to a crisp. The best time to view and grab snaps begins at sunrise. 

overland travel India, random street photography, novices Calcutta, image by Rick Hemi

Novices on the streets of Calcutta, a part of the Missionaries of Charity congregation established 1950 by Mother Teresa.

overland travel India, ghat snap portrait, image by Rick Hemi

Above, a local with a freshly shaven scalp signifying a death in the family, a Hindu tradition dating back centuries. 

solo overland travel India, street photographers paradise India, images by Rick Hemi

Every day street scenes capturing people snaps keeps you busy through India. All one requires is time, interaction skills and a camera.

solo travel India, street portrait India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Street Portraits - DSLR Prime Lenses

Picture

Randomly photographing women in India depends on their status and cultural practices. Some elderly woman won't hesitate being photographed while others are extremely suspicious having a lens pointed at them. This solely depends on each subject, the amount of time they allow before saying enough is enough. Showing image captures to subjects will give positive results with smiles of appreciation. Consent before photographing Muslim women is required, or watch out. Everyday out on the street is different from the previous without seeing the same faces. The options and opportunities for random street portraits are immense without the complications that are seen in western countries. Western wokeness ideologies has destroyed anything left. Traveling through India still offers some freedom to random photograph as you wish without having to look over your shoulder. In most cases, locals will scratch their heads wondering why foreigners take street shots of elderly woman or of Dalits. Indians normally don't photograph Dalits. They remain within their caste circles. I've lost count how many times I've seen Indian guys going out of their way to have selfie snaps with western women.  ​

overland travel India, street group portrait, image by Rick Hemi

In the summer months, family groups are seen together relaxing in shady areas cooling off from sweltering heat interacting amongst themselves. This is one of the positive advantages of capturing street portraits through the country.

overland travel India, DSLR street image by Rick Hemi

Have you ever had the urge to photograph particular strangers on the street, and regretted not doing so?. It maybe because of low interaction levels, shyness, or the humility of being denied, and screamed at in public. If you were to sit in any busy market area to watch locals interact with each other, you'll notice very quickly they all have similar levels of interaction. Some scream at each other with humorous chit-chat, or argue to the extent of boiling point without crossing the line. Foreigners in the middle of all this will probably think twice and hesitate to grab close-up snaps, because of their western way of thinking that it may be inappropriate, or could result with a negative outcome. In most cases this never happens. Street vendors, market sellers, and the majority of locals are quite flexible, if someone wants close-up portraits of them. Don't think you're the first person that's captured street portraits of any particular subject. You'd be surprised how many times certain people have been photographed within the same location over period of one or two decades. So, if there's an urge to capture someone close up, it will depend on your interaction level, and how much you really want the photo.   ​

India solo overland travel, street portrait, DSLR D3, image by Rick Hemi

Ganga - Sadhu Territory

India solo travel, sadhu Ganga dawn, image by Rick Hemi

Hiring a boat at first light is normal procedure among the thousands of locals and foreigners visiting Varanasi. Finding a sadhu to share the journey up and down the Ganga is another option for those who want to push the limits of inspiration to the next level. Finding a sadhu at 5am in the morning for a few hours is virtually impossible. Arranging a time and place can be arranged the night before - Bartering an hourly rate with a sadhu is interesting. Interacting Sadhus can be humorous and entertaining at the least. Each time I pass through Varanasi I usually spend chill-out time meeting up with the same sadhus.

overland travel India, Sadhu close up, getting the shot, image by Rick Hemi

Bikaner To Jaisalmer - By Camel

overland travel India, camel long shot image by Rick Hemi

Camels are still used for labor work pulling cart loads of hay, or other agricultural produce annually. This is mainly seen in rural regions in Gujarat and Rajasthan states.. Some lucky camels are used for tourism purposes on the edge of the Thar desert from Bikaner to Jaisalmer.  

Aghori Sadhus

overland travel India, Aghori portrait, image by Rick Hemi

Aghori are identified by their distinct dress wear. Black cloth, human arm or rib bones, and human skull necklaces. 

overland travel India, aghori sadhus, human bone apparel, image by Rick Hemi

Above, a partial display of human bones used by Aghori for rituals retrieved from cremation sites.

overland travel India, Aghori long shot, image by Rick Hemi

A long shot capture of an Aghori dressed in black cloth wearing a bone necklace adorned with miniature human skulls. 

overland travel India, Aghori Sadhus, image by Rick Hemi

Aghori Sadhus are the most respected of all Sadhus. They live in a life of celibacy. They are known for their bizarre religious rituals which are associated to forms of cannibalism. It includes group night rituals of necrophilia, and perform other rituals using human bones, and skulls. Aghoris also consume almost anything, which includes all types of faeces, human fluids and human flesh. By doing this they gain awareness of the oneness of everything. Photographing Aghori can be a mission, and isn't recommended unless they allow it. Aghori can become very aggressive with those who pursue to pass the boundaries of grabbing snaps without contributing a cash pay-out. They may also place a voodoo curse on those who push themselves to grab snaps without permission. Graphic image captures of Aghori cannot be posted on this website due to full genitalia exposure.

India overland travel, get the shot, Aghori sadhu, image by Rick Hemi

Some Aghori have very nasty temperaments. They shouldn't be approached unless invited. Even Indians keep their distance from them. If you can handle full genitalia nakedness, voodoo rituals, curses, and visualising spiritual connections using human bones - there's nothing to worry about.

solo overland travel India, Aghori sadhu, closeup Aghori sadhu, image by Rick Hemi

Below, an Aghori at daybreak close to the small burning ghat in Varanasi. I didn't bother interacting with this guy to capture a frontal portrait because my inner instinct was probably correct that he wouldn't at all appreciate being photographed in that exact moment.      

solo overland travel India, Aghori Varanasi, image by Rick Hemi

Street Photography - People Shots

overland travel India. images by Rick Hemi

Taking street portraits through India is rewarding. It can be along bustling city streets, inside vegetable markets, outside train stations, bus stations, near industrial locations and at festival events. Markets will keep most busy snapping images for hours, and at times all day, and returning to the same locations for another fix. River estuaries, canals, and fishing docks are also good locations to capture portrait snaps.

solo overland travel India, random street portraits India, Nikon DSLR D3 12MP street snaps India, images by Rick Hemi

A few years ago, I had received an email from a British national, who stated in the mail "you are not a photographer", "you don't know how to photograph", "you need to return to New Zealand and forget about photography" etc etc. I had briefly shared a van ride with this dude in Ethiopia (we won't mention his name here), we had never spoken directly together. Somehow he was triggered, but like yellow cowards are, too weak and fragile to say whatever bugged his brain cells in direct one on one conversation at the time.
​I must say, this millennial isn't alone, there's many westerners out there traveling carrying their past garbage with them. Best advice for people like him - stay home in your bubble and don't come out.

solo overland travel India, DSLR Nikon D3 street portrait, image by Rick Hemi

Street photographers have different appeals of what they like to capture and what they dislike and avoid. I prefer capturing street portraits rather than of flowers and butterflies. Street photography is personal, nothing can change that. It's like those who prefer drinking chai rather than coffee, or wine and not whiskey. Street photographers have their own style and preferences of what they enjoy photographing.

solo travel India, street photography, street portrait India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

In recent years I've been asked many times by other foreigners offshore why I'm still using old outdated DSLR camera gear. One dude, a young American was using the latest google smart phone to capture images. We spent a few days together strolling the streets taking random snaps. He quickly discovered the limitations of his smart phone camera in comparison to what my old DSLR gear could accomplish. At the end of our short time together, he requested a list of Nikon DSLR stuff. To my surprise, a few months later, he had purchased a full frame Nikon body and three good lenses.     

solo overland travel India, street portrait, image by Rick Hemi

Capturing street images of Indians in military uniform is a grey area. Posting images online of Indians in military clothing like above should be without their name tags shown.

solo overland travel India, street photography, DSLR prime lens image by Rick Hemi

DSLR Photo Gear Works - Prime Lenses

street photography India, overland travel India, sadhu street India, image by Rick Hemi

If you've browsed through other pages on this website, you'll notice 99.9% of images have been captured using natural ambient light. When photographing Sadhus in dark or subdued light, their composure, depending what state of mind, may cause different responses to bright flashes. Sadhus who are high on ganja or hashish are normally very chilled and relaxed, so imagine certain Sadhus who have agro temperaments when camera flashes fire into their faces. Don't expect sympathy or respect if Sadhus freak out with flash. Instead, use whatever ambient light there's available capturing shots. 

India solo overland travel photography, chillum portrait India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Above, low light capture using classic DSLR photo gear and prime lens without the need of using any flash.  

solo overland  travel India, street photography India, Sadhu Ghat, image by Rick Hemi

Street photographers have their own techniques to capture random distant portraits. One I've found that works consecutively, is using DSLR gear set-up on tripods within busy locations. The ease of rotating heavy lenses 360 degrees can't be easier. This also guarantees more chance of getting sharp tack image captures.   

India solo overland travel, India overland travel, sadhu street portrait, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Monasteries - Temples - Mausoleums

India solo travel, side street wall art, image by Rick Hemi

Spotting temples, and monasteries in India, is more than easy. Just look in any direction, they won't be too far away. That's something India isn't short of. Up in the highlands Buddhist temples are nestled at the bottom of cliff faces, or on the top of mountain passes. Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh are well known for their abundance of mixed monasteries and temples.  

overland travel India 2020s, location snap sun temple Konark

Location snap during a second visit to the Sun temple, Konark. The first visit in the 1980s, hardly had the local tourism overflow, as it has now. There were no temple security guards or surveillance cameras, and certainly no bustling street stalls outside the temple complex. Rail barriers positioned around the Sun temple was another needed addition. Guards were quick as lightning blowing whistles screaming at locals taking selfies over the barrier. This is what happens when promotional advertising creates a sleepy temple into a tourist mecca. Is the Sun temple worth a visit? Yes, during the cooler months from November to February.             

solo overland India 2020s, sun temple Konark, images by Rick Hemi

View from opposite sides of the Sun temple showing four wheels (twenty four in total), with two wheels giving accurate daylight time.

overland travel India, sun temple Konark, images by Rick Hemi

A full day, is more than enough time at the Sun temple. It's recommended staying in Konark rather than Puri. Camera tripods and drones are not permitted. Casual dress wear i.e. tees & singlet is allowed. Entrance opens 6am — bring your own water.

solo overland travel India, classic Taj 1986 SLR roll film snap, image by Rick Hemi

The above roll film snap of the historical Mogul icon still remains the same today as it was when this image was taken over 38+ years ago on one of my first visits to India. The postcard era of travel was the era of total freedom without all the fluff puff tourism floating around the planet we see today. Below, a long shot low res image across the valley of a Buddhist retreat in the Indian highlands. It was captured with a 2007 D3 12MP body & 1986-05 800mm f/5.6 AIS lens.

solo overland travel India, buddhist retreat, image by Rick Hemi

Durga Puja  - West Bengal

solo overland travel India, Durga Puja India, image by Rick Hemi

Durga Puja is one of many festivals that shouldn't be missed. Durga Puja festivals are in West Bengal, Bihar, Jharkhand, Odisha, Assam and Tripura state. It's one of the largest annual festival events in the mentioned provinces. Durga Puja is a time of celebration with family, social gatherings, shopping and gift-giving, feasting, pandal-visiting and pandel immersion. Durga festivals usually begin in October lasting five days. Below, Christmas celebrations in full swing, Park Street, Kolkata.

solo travel India, christmas celebrations Kolkata, image snap by Rick Hemi

Interacting Skills - A Necessity

solo travel India, overland travel India, sadhu closeup, image by Rick Hemi

Brushing up your interacting skills is priority with total strangers. This is key capturing random street portraits in any continent. If you're shy, or come from countries where people are afraid to interact with one another, to start-up conversations with certain people, or who have a general anti-phobia towards weird looking people - you have a problem. Opening yourself up towards strangers will depend how infected you've become within your own environment. Sweden, and actually most Scandinavian countries are notorious for this. How do I know? I've lived there, people find it extremely difficult to communicate with each other unless first knowing each other. I found it extremely hard just to chat with people at transit bus stops.
Capturing close-up random street portraits starts by interacting with subjects first. No interaction will get you zilch, nothing. The most negative reaction one can suffer from any basic chit-chat with any stranger is a NO to photograph. This does happen, and should be respected, but in most cases capturing close-up street portraits of strangers, especially within the Real World is positive - Try it!

solo overland travel India, sadhu India, image by Rick Hemi

Rural Highlands  - Basic Living

solo overland India, travel and transit India, rural kitchen Manipur, image by Rick Hemi

Above, a young tribal girl sits patiently for the kettle to boil in rural Manipur state. Below, a local highlands woman gave me the opportunity to grab this snap of her in the kitchen cooking dinner. Rural living in India has its positives and negatives like anywhere else. Local crop and food cultivation and water resources are the most important necessities for rural lifestyle living. Even with the highest population on the planet, people in India have managed to sustain basic living standards. In the West, one only requires to walk around the streets of San Fransisco, Los Angeles, Portland and Chicago to experience the carnage of endless street dwellers, beggars, and drug addicts. It was never like that - What happened to America? You know "living the dream."  Maybe all those trillions of dollars spent in Afghanistan over 20 years would have been better spent inside the US.

solo overland travel India, highlands kitchen India, image by Rick Hemi

Escaping up to the Indian Himalayan highlands during pre-monsoon season begins as early as April. The mountainous regions are chilled down to snail pace. Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh, Kashmir, Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh have different ambient laid back lifestyles. The most difficult thing to decide, is when it's time to leave these regions. Below image, a secluded location isolated from tourist hot spots with open panoramic views of the Himalayan highlands.    

solo overland travel India, Himalayan Indian highlands, great escape India, image by Rick Hemi

King Cobra  - Snake God

India solo overland travel, cobra snake, image by Rick Hemi

The serpent snake is well embedded into ancient Hinduism mythology and considered to be divine. The image above showing a sadhu with a cobra reflects this. Nagpanchami is celebrated every year on 30th of July with rituals to the snake god. Indian snake charmers on the other hand originate from the Sapera or Sapuakela castes. Their tradition goes back centuries, but the banning of owning reptiles was passed into law in 1972. Snake charmers being nomadic can still be seen in rural villages, and ghats.  

solo overland travel India, snake charmer India, image by Rick Hemi

Below, I've seen this snake charmer a few times at different locations, he stopped for a quick street snap.  

solo overland travel India, snake charmer street snap, image by Rick Hemi

Colonial - Howrah Bridge

overland solo travel India, Hoogly environs, Calcutta, images by Rick Hemi

Most of India's major cities are entwined with an array of new and historical structures with some seen spread across the skyline. Kolkata's classic Howrah bridge, which received a name change to Rabindra Setu bridge is one of many famous icons of the city. Over one hundred thousand vehicles cross over the bridge daily, including an estimated two hundred thousand pedestrians. It's probably the most used cantilever bridge in the world. A little downstream is the newer Hooghly bridge which has considerably helped traffic flow congestion.

solo overland travel India, Howrah bridge riverside, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Above image,  taken mid-morning showing a constant flow of people in transit carrying possessions, luggage and baggage across Howrah bridge. The steady flow rate of people continues non-stop throughout the course of the day till the sun sets. Below, traffic is also at constant pace all day - everyday. Photography is actually not permitted on the bridge, but some foreigners (and locals) do grab quick-snaps at their own risk.

solo overland travel and transit India, Howrah bridge, image by Rick Hemi

Black Gold - Coal

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Coal is still a natural commodity in demand throughout India that's used for cooking, and heating purposes. It's cheap and plentiful, which still makes this mineral a favorite for heating purposes amongst locals.

solo travel India, overland travel India, street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Chulah coaled fueled ovens are used throughout India. The process of banning coal fed tandoors has recently been brought in motion by the government to prohibit the use of coal burning ovens in cities and urban regions. Instead, LPG gas replacements will eventually roll-out through India within the next few years.

solo travel overland India, street photography India, chulah coal oven India, image by Rick Hemi

Head Massage - Try It

solo overland travel street photography India, head massage India, DSLR image by Rick Hemi

Nothing beats a good head massage by local street masseurs throughout India guaranteed to give full satisfaction.

Sadhus & Pilgrims - Chillum Chilling

solo overland travel Asia, street photography India, chillum smoking India, images by Rick Hemi

Many foreigners traveling through India enjoy the habit photographing their food, taking snaps of shopping binge stuff, and off-course narcissistic selfie snaps. Nothing wrong with that, that's their choice. Personally, I prefer capturing images of other people, especially when in India, like finding locals chilling smoking chillums. Mela festivals and washing ghats are the usual locations where chillum smokers hangout relaxing their day away. I normally use fixed prime lenses attached to full frame DSLRs, like a D3 capturing shots.       

solo overland travel India, mela chillum, image by Rick Hemi

Sadhus and pilgrims from all different sects of Hinduism openly enjoy smoking loaded chillums of charas.

India solo travel street photography, sadhu chillum, image by Rick Hemi

Chillum smoking has been a part of Indian culture dating back centuries especially with the Naga Sadhus. Its main purpose is to increase one’s ability to focus and strengthen one’s energy for concentrated meditation. The tradition of chillum smoking, although more sensitive today than it ever has been, remains as a grey area of its legality.

overland travel India, solo travel India, street photography India, sadhu chillum, image by Rick Hemi

Charas (weed) has been used by the Naga Sadhus, Aghoris, and Tantric Bhairava sects for centuries in connection with religious purposes in India. Although Hash was made illegal under Indian law in the 1980's, it still retains a grey area that's more relaxed for individual usage, although trafficking the drug still holds up to a 10 year jail term. Charas is normally smoked in clay made chillums. Hashish is illegally cultivated in the mountainous regions in various Indian states. As a warning, foreign visitors dealing or exporting hashish or other drugs in India are severely dealt with. Each Indian state uses their own legal/illegal regulations for smoking weed, Legal Weed India

solo overland travel India, sadhu India, chillum India, street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Taking snaps of locals using chillums will depend who it is and the location - positive interaction skills required.

solo overland travel India, chillum charas smoking, images by Rick Hemi

Above, the art of chillum smoking is like anything else mastering perfection. Don't ask me, I've never used chillums, and don't smoke gunja, hashish or other forms of drug. Capturing close up still shots of others is about how close I get to drug use.

solo overland India, classic roll film snap mid 1980s, image by Rick Hemi

Above, don't ask me where this roll film snap was originally taken, it was probably one of my first ever chillum images captured during the mid-eighties. I still have thousands of negative and slide film taken through the 1980's and 90's in storage that haven't been digitalised.

solo overland travel India, street photography India, close-up chillum, image by Rick Hemi

Indians - Workaholics

solo overland travel India, street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Traveling through India, one quickly realizes how vast the multitude of people there are across the country, who work their bones off seven days a week around the clock non-stop. This is witnessed through rural regions coast to coast in fishing villages and agricultural environs. Below image, one of many classic roll film overland travel snaps through the website, women in fast motion carrying bundles of fodder back to their village.

solo overland travel India, classic SLR Nikon roll film 1980s, image by Rick Hemi

Nostalgia - It's Everywhere

side street photography India, solo travel India, images by Rick Hemi

If antique gateways, manual cast iron street water pumps, and colonial styled buildings are of interest, India has more than enough antique street nostalgia to keep anyone flat out busy. Roaming around inside colonial locations, especially down quiet side streets or lane ways will usually have unique street ambience with remains of colonial heritage. ​

street ambience India, solo overland travel India, street photography India, image by Rick Hemi

Hornbill - Don't Miss It!

overland travel India, highway signage Nagaland, image by Rick Hemi

If passing through north east India during the end of November, the Hornbill festival is one event that shouldn't be missed.

solo overland travel India, Nagaland festival India, image by Rick Hemi

The Hornbill festival has been a great success since its creation. The event congregates seventeen different tribes throughout Nagaland for a full on ten day gathering of ethnic dance and song. The festival is usually held in early December situated south of Kohima. Nagaland is a dry state (no alcohol), but during the Hornbill festival rice wine is plentiful. Warm clothing is necessary due to the altitude and winter temperatures which can drop below zero.     

solo travel overland India, hornbill festival, Nagaland, image by Rick Hemi

Below, customary dress wear design worn by the Konyak tribe situated in the far northern region of Nagaland state.

overland travel India, konyak portrait Nagaland, image by Rick Hemi

Knock yourself out enjoying the largest tribal festival event in north east India. After the event, one can slowly travel further north using bush bus transport to Mon district and onward through to Assam state and Arunachal Pradesh (permits required for AP)  

solo overland travel India, Hornbill festival, Kohima Nagaland, image by Rick Hemi

India - Still Untamed

solo overland travel India, random street portraits India, image by Rick Hemi

Random street photography through India becomes a daily exercise having no end. Getting into the hustle and bustle inside overflowing markets, or feeling the push and shove along narrow side streets and laneways shouldn't be avoided. On most days, strolling around without knowing where you'll end up can mount to kilometres from home base.

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Many foreign street photographers end up finding out quickly a 3 month journey through India is far too short to cover the entire country. Even six months depends what time of the year one arrives. Since the mid 80's, I've had over 12+ visits to India. The abundance of wildlife, landscape, astro, street scenes, and endless mix of culture, including overland border crossings to Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar, Bangladesh, and Pakistan makes India more difficult not to return.

Rick Hemi India 2018, Nikon 800mm f/5.6 IF-ED - location Varanasi

Those who say "I've traveled and seen all of India in three months" are certainly deceiving themselves. Even a 6 month stint through the Indian sub-continent is virtually impossible of completing a thorough visitation of India. Visiting wildlife parks alone, including numerous sanctuaries of wildlife habitat off the beaten track becomes an endless feat through the migratory season. It would actually take years to visit most known wildlife regions in the country without even calculating countless other isolated wildlife habitat regions that exist. Favorite locations through India will usually end-up becoming multiple return visits for most foreign travelers.

solo overland travel & transit photo gear, Himalaya view India, image by Rick Hemi

Don't come to India or travel almost anywhere else outside your comfy bubbles without camera gear! Camera smart phones don't cut-it for still photography. Repeat, Camera smart phones don't cut it for still photography. They're useless past what they've been designed for - social media, food scraps, pet dogs & cats, zoo snaps. Quality high end point and shoots, 3/4 cameras with DSLR lenses, and full frame DSLR photo gear will get the shots every time.

solo overland travel India, Himalayan griffon, image by Rick Hemi

One will become disappointed during travel journeys, if only using smart phone cameras. Take some positive advise, travel with real camera gear. The end results count. Enlarged cropped long shots taken with cell cameras are ugly! If you want satisfying images, at least travel with a couple of quality lenses i.e. wide angle zoom, prime lens for portraits, and a long range tele/zoom for wildlife. I personally still use DSLR gear in the 2020s. I don't follow trends. I stick with camera gear that works, so mirrorless can take a back seat for a few more years yet.

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