PHOTO GEAR - Overland Travel & Transit

South America : Africa : Asia : Middle East

For most happy going street photographers any photo-gear used for off-shore travel journeys will usually only be a short time period of a week or two, or up to a month. Photo-gear used on a short trips will eventually return home, and placed safely back in the cupboard or into a dry box. This is the total opposite for those who are basically like wandering gipsies over-landing somewhere through countries and continents travelling with photo-gear for long periods at a time. Most camera equipment will end up being tried and tested through different types of climatic seasonal conditions, and natural elements out in the field. If using basic transport, contents in camera bags can easily become vulnerable to damage if not properly packed down. Robust designed camera-bags will protect photo-gear from drops, knocks, and the continuous bump and grind through countries across continents.

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Below, these Chinese tourists really looked the part, cladded dressed clothing pro photographers with pro photo gear, but unfortunately they were far from it. I had watched them from distance where I was setup using a tripod and lens, they lacked what most street photographers would normally accomplish. The quick snaps they did take could of easily been captured using simple smart phone cameras instead. When in the thick of it offshore carrying photo gear, like these Chinese tourists, at least use your stuff properly, or invest in a little point and shoot.    

The mega pixel circus in 2021 is still the greatest selling point for all camera brands and smart phones - What a joke! ​

Below, a tatty 6x7 cm proof sheet image enlargement from the 1990's. If the actual original negative was used, not just a blow up from the proof sheet above, it would be the equivalent of 100+ megapixels, and match or surpass most junk out there on the market today. Film verses digital review

Shopping For Photo-Gear? - Shinjuku Tokyo

The best place to purchase a used Rolex watch is in Switzerland - the original country where they're made. This is the same for photographic equipment made in Japan. The amount of used camera equipment in Japan is more than what you can imagine. Some camera shops are so large, they have individual floors for each brand. For instance, there could be a selection of 10 used Nikon D3 or D4 bodies, with each body individually priced by their condition, and actuation shutter count. Japanese second hand camera equipment is like finding piles of gold. In most cases, the Japanese look after their camera-gear for years without having dents or scratches, and still have the original box, and manuals.
Prices for used photo-gear in Japan is very reasonable, compared to in Europe, Australia and NZ. This goes for camera lenses as well. For instance, within Shinjuku, one shop on the 3rd floor had a selection of fifteen of the same lens available at different prices. A lens with minor marks or scratches will normally sell for under half the cost of a mint lens of the same model. Usually, a minimum 3 month guarantee is offered with used purchased photo-gear. Shinjuku has enough used camera equipment of every make, brand and format one could imagine. Shopping around is recommended, other cities also have surplus supplies of used camera-gear - Osaka, Nagoya and Kagoshima to mention a few. Those already on an overland journey without camera equipment, or wanting to upgrade a few lenses, and intending visiting Japan, this is the country of choice to purchase good used photo-gear.

Nikon would of closed down decades ago if they kept producing lenses that were almost indestructible. I found this 1960's 50mm f/1.4 lens down a side-street alley in Asia. It had the usual knocks and scrapes, but the lens had no dust or fungus. I walked away with it as a paper weight give away. Classic all metal constructed lenses shows how little has changed optically through the decades. It's all about cosmetic user-friendly changes to stimulate sales to reduce manufacturing costs. This 50mm 1.4 only requires a file down on the aperture ring to work on any Nikon DSLR, or 4/3 body with an adapter ring. De-clicking these lenses is straight forward to keep them silent for street videography.  ​Rating 7/10

Photo-Gear - How Reliable Is It? 

Quality constructed camera-gear can usually take a beating within most environments. Have you ever mistakenly dropped a camera body onto hard surfaces? like on pavements, concrete, roads, or rocky surfaces? Some have, and the body ceased to function or work. Others were more fortunate enough to have their cameras survive more than one casual drop - because of it's construction. In today's fast lane of replacement updates, mirrorless bodies are hip - Just don't drop those auto fixed focused mirrorless bodies, or submerge them too long in water if using one. At the moment, only the more expensive pro-mirrorless bodies are capable of surviving knocks and drops on a weekly basis. 
​Choosing photo-gear that can handle all types of punishment and abuse over-landing  through continents is a must priority. In most cases, don't expect quick repairs or replacements with defunct mirrorless bodies within isolated regions in the middle of nowhere. The choice of travelling with heavy weighted DSLR camera bodies with proven track records for reliability is something to think about, for those heading off-shore into the wilderness and beyond. No matter the brand, any paper-lite mirrorless versus a heavy-weighted DSLR will loose it's status, if put through long duration journeys crossing continents.  Reliability comes first - Choose wisely.    ​

Photo-Gear In Transit

Solo overland transiting through the continents with a ton of Photo Gear is nothing new - people do it all the time. Looking after equipment on the other hand is a mission in itself, and solely depends on the ability to load and off-load baggage independently no matter what transport is used. Bush buses through Africa, boats up and down the Amazon, and Himalayan mountain transport all have the same things in common - lots of vibration, with excess baggage treated, and handled all the same way - rough as guts. At times, any excess baggage loaded on bus roof tops will be off loaded in the fastest and quickest fashion to save time - thrown off the side. This is normal procedure with locals' baggage, so don't expect any VIP status being a foreigner. Loading your own baggage is a smart move, but one has to remember most bush bus roof tops are also used to accommodate the overflow of passengers, and your baggage may become a make shift bed squashing its contents for a day or two, or walked on a dozen times or more, so transiting as a passenger on the roof top isn't a bad idea to safeguard luggage (grabbing snap shots, and videos in transit mode on top of a bus is a bonus). Most baggage floor holds in boats and buses in the middle of nowhere are either oil soaked from engine parts being transported, or from surplus oil and tools that are used when buses break down, or require repairs or service en-route. Other issues are worn out roof top structures, and rough baggage hold compartments that have protruding sharp jagged metal edges, and worn out pointed screws, which will rip anything open like cat food from a tin can when baggage is dragged out by local baggage handlers. Depending how excess photo gear is packed down inside baggage, it may survive a few times, but over a year or two transiting through Africa, or the Middle East or across South America, contents and baggage will get damaged if it's not personally handled by you. Each time when loading and off-loading occurs, it's safer to always load your own luggage to and from whatever transport is chosen. In transit mode, taking anything for granted is a grave mistake, especially if baggage is manhandled by local operators that treat baggage as cow fodder. Purchasing a second seat does solve all the above issues, but becomes expensive for those on tight budgets. Rough baggage handling, and oil soaked baggage storage compartments are common scenarios of any solo transit journey over-landing through continents. Screaming will do you no good at all when backpacks and baggage contents are damaged caused by local bush bashing baggage handlers. You only have yourself to blame, and no one else if this happens to your travel stuff and junk!

If cameras are still fully functional taking great images - why update? This Argentinean freelancer was using a pretty scruffy worn out D800 grabbing snaps on steroids. Those worried about camera body cosmetic appearances are usually the type who will never push past boundaries, spend more time on social media, and keep their cameras permanently zipped up. Protecting quality lenses is a different story. Resale value drops with every fresh added scratch. Lenscoat wraps have been around for years, and worth their price tag for expensive or rare lenses.       

Photo-Gear In Extreme Temps

Earlier this year in 2020, I had joined a photo forum called "NikonGear Net", and had posted a few questions in a thread titled "Nikon Camera In The Cold" by  Øivind Tøien - Fairbanks Alaska. I had asked a series of simple questions, if anyone had used manual focus lenses (like above) within extreme climate conditions. My questions were posted on this forum a few weeks before the journey was about to begin.
​With over 21,000 at the time who had read Øivind Tøien's - Nikon Camera In The Cold, you'd think someone on this post, especially Øivind Tøien who created the post would've given some positive advice and feedback on cold temp camera lens issues. I received zero advice on this post, not a word, pip squeak? There you go - zero kudos for Øivind @NG. Maybe if I had posted "Free Nikon Bodies & Lens Giveaways" instead, I might of received some results.

​Good Glass - Great Images​​

Overland Travel Photography

Almost every image that someone takes has certain value to it. Most images throughout this website no matter what camera it was captured with certainly have their own historical footprint just like the above street snap of a Nepali local. It was captured in a dusty wind blown open makeshift chai stop along a busy dirt road. As usual, after ordering a hot chai, I was scanning around the tables casually looking at facial features of anyone who may become a random photographic street subject snap. This particular local was busy sipping on a chai in the corner slightly hidden from view. I approached his table, and had sat opposite of him offering another chai before he could disappear. After grabbing the above capture, the image was shown to him in appreciation - along with all the other locals who had crowded around the table. I had returned 18 months later to the same rural village in Nepal, and had passed-by the same roadside chai stop for some chit chat, but unfortunately this local had passed away a  few months earlier. ​

 Which Lens - Manual : Auto : Zoom or Prime?

Are you planning a long-term journey through a continent? I can't recommend highly enough to at least invest in a couple of quality lenses. Reselling good lenses has never been a problem. Lenses have always keep their value whereas camera bodies devalue year by year. Mid-range Nikon and Canon optics are great value. It take times to build up a variety of glass that fits the criteria of what one individually enjoys to use. A tired shutter thrashed body must be eventually serviced - avoid them like the plague, unless it's only the shutter that's in need of replacing. Today, quality second hand prime lenses can be found for reasonable prices online. Shopping around through camera shops, or online usually gives a variety of choices to fit anyone's budget. Below, location is everything, a snap captured using classic photo-gear still getting the shots. 

Some street photographers out there can't wait to grab their hands on the latest released up-dated version lenses. Are you one of them?  I used to be, and would probably be one of those crazy guys as well, if photography was the main source of income to survive. Personally, Iv'e found more pleasure using manual focus lenses than autofocus lenses. It's like how some prefer driving autos rather than changing manual geared cars. Below image, AF-S 200-400 f/4 VRII, AF-S 600, 300 & 400 AIS maul focus lenses.

Quality DSLR Lenses

ED Glass : Solid Construction  

Purchasing long range primes or powerful zooms new or second hand can be expensive. Most of these tanks can be bought second hand from eBay Japan or through camera shops like KEH. Saving cash is always a bonus when investing in Photo Gear, but this can't be avoided if purchasing quality made powerful long range primes. Classic manual focus long range primes is another option. A robust tripod and tripod head is also required. The option of matrix metering has never been better, or easier for Nikon's classic line of MF lenses. The aid of adding CPU chips on manual focus lenses has been around for decades - this is a good link on CPU Chipping here. For example, Nikon's 400mm f/3.5 ED-IF lens is still an incredible piece of glass. It was one of the best designed manual prime lenses Nikon made in the 80's (apart from the short hood on it). For an in-depth reference check Nikon Lens Serial Codes & Specifications

Classic Nikon - AF 28mm F/1.4D lens​

Street - Landscape - Portrait - Diverse 

The AF Nikkor 28mm f/1.4D lens is probably unknown to many Nikon users, because only 7333 units were ever produced (1993-2005). I use this lens for random street photography, portraits, and astro captures. The lens has 14/11 optics of glass, (1 aspherical), a 9 blade diaphragm with an all-metal housing. It will function on any Nikon body with screw drive focus. If you can find one of these lenses still in working condition, don't hesitate to put your hands on it. The AF 28mm f/1,4D is one of Nikons classic up-market lenses.  Rating 8/10

Dust - Protect Your Photo-Gear

Unprotected photo-gear, especially using lenses in unforgiving environments will quickly become saturated with dust. This is one of the worst enemies for lenses, no matter the brand or manufacturer. Dust should be blown off photo-gear before disconnecting lenses from camera bodies. A blower brush, or using compressed air to remove dust from lenses does the job. After a blow down, use a semi damp cloth to wipe around the body/lens mounting ring. This ensures to eliminate any remaining dust particles that may enter inside camera bodies when dismounting lenses. If ignored, dust, or other residue will eventually find their way to the sensor. Using Sea to Summit bags as a back-up to protect camera equipment within desert environs is recommended. The image below, a typical full force dust storm in its early stages, clashing with a cold front. Within under a minute from taking this snap this desert town was covered under a thick blanket of dust.

Wet Lenses - Dust & Humidity Cocktail

Wiping down wet lenses is paramount in humid regions. The chances of activating fungus spores inside lenses are more prone to happen when lenses are placed back into damp camera bags within humid environments. Camera-gear in air conditioned rooms in humid environments require temperature adjustments before leaving, and returning. Manaus, Dhaka, and Durban are examples of cities with high humidity levels. Cheap plastic designed lenses are more vulnerable for fungus issues, but even the latest expensive "seal proof" lenses have no escape if they're not thoroughly wiped down and dried before being placed back into camera bags. Front lens optics maybe weather sealed, but they're not humid protected!  
​Using silica packs in camera bags will absorb moisture. Replacing gel packs each week is recommended in humid regions. Suede and leather lens pouches should be discarded, and replaced with non-absorbing material like Domke wraps. Camera bags should also have a good airing in direct sunlight to dry out moisture after leaving sticky humid environments. 

How Fungus Develops In Camera Lenses  

It's sometimes necessary to dry out photo-gear in direct sunlight after being in damp humid locations. This will help keep fungus spores from breeding inside camera bags. Silica gel packets do an excellent job of absorbing moisture, but they won't get rid of fungus spores that may already be on lens optics caused by traces of dust particles. The quickest way to check lenses for dust is by placing a torch at the front of a lens, and looking through the rear of the lens with the aperture blades wide open. This can be frightening, and will surprise many who think their lenses are dust free. If a lens does have large accumulations of dust particles, it's advisable to get it serviced ASAP. Fungus usually begins to form growth on lens optics when dust particles inside lens optics become damp.
​Fungus activation begins from tiny dust particles inside lenses. When lenses are exposed to either extreme frosty temperatures or wet sweaty humid environments, the fungus process begins. This causes dust particles inside lenses to become a damp nest. Within a short period of time, the dust begins festering into a full-blown spider webs of fungus spores across the optics. The growth continues without mercy, and will actually eat into the coatings of optics. Eventually, lenses with clouds of fungus on optics will render them into paper weights. Fungus spores are naturally airborne, if one lens becomes infected, other lenses can be easily contaminated within the same camera bag. Lenses stored in leather and suede pouches are also breeding nests for fungus. Drying out photo-gear in non-humid climates, including camera bags may sound like overkill, but this does avoid fungus to easily breed. The amount of fungus infested lenses I've seen used by amateurs and photographers alike is beyond belief. Fungus has an incubation period before it takes hold. lenses with "seal proof" status are just as vulnerable to get fungus. The term - weather sealing only means for "Short-Periods of Invasive Weather", like cloud bursts of rain, or dusty environments. Weather sealing is not weather proof, or fungus proof.

Battered Scratched Lens Makeover - Respray it 

Many classic lenses have perfect optics, but cosmetically many are with faded coatings with marks, stains, and scratches from wear and tear by previous owners. Lens coats are the fashion these days, even I use them, but I've had issues with a few very sloppy lens-coats that have been poorly made without the proper tolerances to keep them firm without moving when placed in their appropriate position - (buyer beware). Respraying lenses isn't that complicated, and only requires good automotive matt sprays, wet and dry sandpaper, cleaner, and quality ultra-thin masking tape. The above image is one example, a Canon EF 300 USM lens, it received a camo finish respray. It takes a day to complete a lens, so if you're game enough to give it try, and do have a few lenses in need of a cosmetic respray - go for it, and give your old classic lenses a fresh matt spray-job with its own custom finish. 

Tripods in Transit 

Slow Shutter Speeds - Heavy Lenses - Wildlife - Street - Diverse

I never used tripods before 2011, because of the hassles of carting one around which adds extra weight, including the on and off-loading when in transit. Today, I wouldn't think twice taking a tripod overland across any country because of its value as an important tool capturing in focus images - don't leave home base without one.

There are many different brands, makes and model tripods on the market to satisfy anyone wanting one. The model I use is lightweight, and has the strength to hold heavy lenses. The Gitzo GT3531  load capacity holds a maximum weight of up to 18kg (40 lbs). The original Gitzo centre stem and hub was replaced with a Markins hub. A Markins TH-300 hub, from South Korea, retains the same strength as the original. Additional stainless steel foot spikes were added to keep stability on uneven ground. A Wimberley WH-200 Gimbal tripod head finishes off the rig. A heavy duty eyelet attached under the hub manages 10+kg weight of rocks placed in a bag keeping the tripod stable in breezy conditions. An indestructible Manfrotto MBAG80P tripod bag protects my tripod-gear in bush buses, trains, and on the back of trucks crossing countries. It has survived passing through three continents since 2011. Rating 10/10

I've used a few different tripod heads over the years and recommend the Wimberley WH II Arca tripod head for it's quality and reliability. A small service re-oiling the thrust washers before and leaving sub-zero temps or humid climates will keep the head operating smoothly. There are a few Chinese clone copies on the market - buyer beware! the original gets 10/10

Below, location shot using the Gitzo/Markins/Wimberley rig on the Manali-Leh Ladakh highway at an elevation height of 4000 metres

Below, An AF-S Nikon 600mm f/4 mounted to a wimberley II head on a Gitzo/Markins tripod. I've used this rig since 2011 without any issues. The total weight of a 600 f/4 lens and pro FX body is 7.2 kg. The GT 3531 with the replacement Markins hub makes it less cumbersome and more lightweight to travel with through countries & continents.

Solo Overland Travel Photography - Tough Tripod Bag

Asia : South America : Africa : Middle east

One reliable tripod bag for overland travel is the Manfrotto MBAG-80P. It's super strong padded ballistic nylon material can tolerate almost anything. On one rough road trip, the tripod bag had slipped off the luggage roof on a 4WD @ 120 kph in India. I had visually seen it cartwheeling end on end down the road behind the jeep.
The bag was fully packed with a tripod, tripod head, brackets, batteries, chargers, monopod, and other travel equipment. It suffered zero damage to any of the contents, or to the bag itself, not one rip, tear, or scuffing - that's what I call a 10/10 reliable product design.
Although the original MBAG80P is no longer available, new old stock can still be found online. Manfrotto also has another design similar to their classic version - the MBAG80PN. I've been using the same MBAG-80P since 2010 covering untold amounts of overland transit milage through the continents. The image above, from Jan 2020, shows the MBAG-80P within extreme sub-zero temps (-12C to 35C) @ altitude levels up to 4500m. On this journey, my photo-gear clocked up over 4600km overland using trains, cars, vans and 4WDs - with zero damage.

Monopods 

If there was ever something worth while carting around through continents, it has to be a monopod. A great tool for heavy photo-gear for quick situations at any location. A fluid 3 base foot for videography is optional, I sometimes use an Arca plate directly mounted to the monopod. Carbon fibre monopods are the pick of the bunch to save weight. The image below shows model #695. The lower extension was removed, it has been part of my photo-gear since 2009, and still functions and works perfectly.  ​Rating 10/10

AF-S Nikon 200-400mm f/4 G VRII IF-ED

Street - Landscape - Wildlife - Portrait - Diverse 

This is one of many top quality lenses from Nikon's range of zoom optics. Using this lens on tripods or a monopod guarantees crisp images. Hand holding the lens grabbing snaps is manageable. With practice and technique,  the weight of the lens becomes less apparent. One negative flaw with this lens, is the tripod collar. Nikon as of late have wing-bling collar designs. Any model Wimberley arca plate replacement makes the lens more stable eliminating shake. It also places the lens weight ratio closer to the centre when mounted on tripods. The AF-S Nikon 200-400 f/4 VRII has never faulted one time since 2010. The lens has done some serious overland travel through entire continents on board rattling bush-buses in the middle of nowhere. Rating 10/10 Professional lens reviews   Nikon Lens Evaluations
Above image, Nikon AF-S 200-400mm f/4 VR II lens with an aftermarket Wimberley tripod collar replacement. The lens is a good all-rounder for any subjects. DX mode, the 200-400 will capture distant wildlife at a 600mm frame crop. Even with the VRII system, using a tripod is recommended for tack sharp image captures. 

2nd Hand Photo-Gear

"Just Because A Lens Is Old Doesn't Mean It's A Paperweight" 

Purchasing Photo Gear is like a never ending sacrificial investment. Updating or replacing photo gear can be a painful experience that digs deep down into the pockets of anyone who wants to upgrade or replace worn out equipment - believe me, I've been down that road many times.
​Not so long ago Nikon and Canon released a semi pro or pro body every 2-3 years. How things have changed - yes? Today one can't keep up with the amount of new models from these two major camera kings. The competition is fiercer than it ever was, this making the confusion even greater from the many choices one has. Cell phones equipped with quad lenses and in built hi-tech camera apps is pure competition, which has probably caused major camera companies to use the same ploy - flood the market with affordable "user friendly" photo-gear. 

Before splashing out hard earned cash at your local camera retail shop, it's well worth the effort to do some research on camera stuff that has a proven track record of reliability. Camera bodies all have use-by dates, but in saying that, some semi pro and pro bodies are still functioning perfectly today. If a camera's shutter count (actuations) is low on a five year old body, and its outer cosmetic appearance shows no sign of abuse, then what's the problem?
Used photo gear for sale across the internet is a booming business - it has never been easier. The increase of new cameras has created a huge back flow of used camera equipment. This gives anyone the opportunity to purchase used semi pro or pro bodies, and lenses at affordable prices. 
Investing in good quality optics - used or new, is like carrying around a bank account. You can resell them anytime, and almost anywhere. On the other hand, used camera bodies depreciate year by year, especially if shutters need replacing. Quite a few classic Nikon lenses are still worth their same value today.
Before investing in any new or used equipment, a knowledge and thorough research on Photo Gear is imperative. In the long term, the pay-offs are normally positive.

Above, a long shot capture of Herons using a 34 year old lens and ten year old 12MP body on DX mode shows quality classic photo-gear still works in 2020.  Below a hand held snap with a 40+ year old Noct Nikkor 58mm f/1.2 AI lens.

AF-S Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8G ED​

Street - Landscape - Portrait - Astro - Diverse ​

Nikon's ultra-wide full frame AFS 14-24mm f/2.8G lens was released in 2007, and is an awesome lens that's still well worthwhile to have in the camera bag. I can personally say the reliability of this lens is impressive both in optical quality and its construction. I had purchased mine in 2009, it's been hammered through overland travel and transit journeys through South America, Africa, Asia, and the Middle East. Reliability is a part of any purchase no matter what lens it is. Image captures with the 14-24 are excellent in any light, including astro-photgraphy. The only issue - which is the user, and not the lens itself, is keeping the front optic safe from scratches or knocks when zoomed out at 14mm. This places the front element out in the open. The front lens cover is probably the most important lens cap of the entire Nikon range of optics for front glass protection - Don't lose it.  Fotodiox do supply 145 mm diameter filter kits for this lens. ​Rating 10/10

The option of using Pol and ND filters on the AF-S Nikkor 14~24mm f/2,8G lens is very limited. Fotodiox USA are probably the best available source of good quality designed filter and adapter kits. Their ultra-thin 145mm diameter filter kit for the AFS 14-24mm lens is superb -  Rating 10/10 Fotodiox ​​

AF-S Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G  VRI IF-ED

The AF-S Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G I & II are probably the most versatile zoom lenses of the Nikon range. It's a light weight lens that won't let you down in any type of environment. The AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VRI/II series lenses have retained their superior optics like all the other models since the mid 1980's. The only flaw worth mentioning, is the tripod mount that can be replaced with either a Wimberley or RRS arca plate. The lens has a super-fast auto focus, and functions well in low light. These lenses can be found on e-Bay, or from, B&H and KEH. Don't think twice to grab one.  ​Rating 10/10

Nikon 300mm F/2.8 IF-ED AIS 

Street - Landscape - Portrait - Diverse 

The Nikon AIS Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 ED-IF manual lens is a good piece of optic precision glass with a flawless track record of reliability. These lenses can be used on the latest autofocus bodies like the D610, D810 and D850. ​The #TC-16a teleconverter will autofocus the lens on bodies with screw-drive, and add 1.6x to the focal length. Adding a CPU chip to this lens will give matrix metering. The Nikon DF body will automatically do the same job. The last run of these lenses were from 1986~2005 with serial numbers #620285 thru #627680 Nikon Lens Evaluations

Nikon AF 85mm F/1.4D Lens

Portrait -  Street - Diverse ​

The Nikon AF 85mm f/1.4D lens has been around since 1995, regarded as the perfect portrait lens. Although production of stopped in 2010, the 85 f/1,4D  can be purchased 2nd hand through eBay, B&H, KEH, and other large camera shops. The lens works great in low light, and can be used wide open with it's peak performance at f/2.8-f/5.6. It's 9 blade aperture gives excellent bokeh. The lens hood stops flaring and should be used all the time due to the large 77mm front element. I use this lens for random street portraiture.  ​Rating 10/10

A few random street portraits using an AF 85mm f/1.4D lens mounted to a D3 body

If you're looking for a well constructed auto-focus full frame lens, the Nikon AF 85mm f/1.4D is a good option.  

I've been using an AF Nikon 85mm f/1.4D lens for years. The lens works great at wide apertures with it's peak performance from f/2.8- f/5.6. It produces great vivid colour saturation and high contrast. Quick AF focusing and sharpness is superb.

Nikon 400mm f/3.5 IF-ED AIS  

Street - Landscape - Wildlife - Portrait - Diverse 

The Nikon 400mm f/3.5 ED-IF manual focus lens is an old classic that was shelved into retirement decades ago. This is still a good budget lens that has outstanding abilities of producing excellent images mounted on the latest bodies. It's still a fast lens within today's maze of 400mm focal lengths. Its barrel diameter is much smaller in diameter than the AF-S 400mm f/2.8. This old classic is an affordable substitute manual focus lens that's built like a tank. The tripod mounting collar is solid and well-designed, and placed on the lens for minimal movement, and vibration. Using the Nikkor 400mm f/3.5 mounted to a Nikon Df body will automatically give matrix metering. Inserting a Dandelion CPU chip on the lens will do the same, and function on most semi and pro Nikon bodies. The production run of the 400mm 3.5 AIS version was from 1982~2005 starting with serial numbers #181501 thru #189575. There were 8075 of these lenses made. KEH or Japanese eBay sellers usually have one or two of these lenses for sale.  A good review of the  Nikon 400mm f/3.5 IF ED

6kg Classic - Nikon AF-S Nikkor 600mm f/4D ​ ​

Wildlife - Street - Sport - Diverse 

A Nikkor AF-S 600mm f/4D tank sprayed in matt camo before lens-coats were invented. The lens had abnormal amounts of knocks, scratches, marks, and abuse from previous owners. This lens had received a full service from Nikon Japan a few years ago. It's the 1st series of the AF-S versions, being the heaviest @6Kg. The latest clone is smaller and lighter only weighing half of this first version. The auto focus is super-fast. The tripod mount collar design is solid as a brick, and positioned on the lens in the right place (well done Nikon)
Photo Gear can't get better with super powerful tele tanks! Don't leave home without one if wildlife's your fetish. These early versions are still in demand. The lens was designed with no shortcuts in its construction. Nikon produced 2411 of this model (1996-2001) Rating 10/10 Nikon full lens history and specs here

AF-S Nikkor 600mm f/4D - location Snaps 

Large Prime ​​Lens Rest Bag 

On The Go - Quick & Fast - Solid Support

The aid of a lens rest bag helps those using heavy lenses. They can be quickly placed at almost any location within seconds. I've been using my own designed rest-bags since 2006. They been sold and marketed with great success. A rest-bag can easily be made and completed in a few hours. The best global fill is dry sawdust, which can be sourced anywhere for free. More on rest-bags down the page. Rating 10/10

The Nikon AF-S 600m f/4D IF-ED on a low model rest bag. The use of a tripod and good head assembly is normally required with heavy lenses. Another way of using large lenses without tripods are with rest bags. They can be filled with plastic bead, or any fill that allows the bag to remain semi solid when the lens is placed on it. Dry sawdust chip works well! Years ago, I designed, and made my own rest bags from heavy duty waterproof material (images shown). Rest bags can be used on the ground, on tables, on car roofs and bonnets, and even hung over a car window wound down. Plastic bead, sawdust, rice or bean-bag fill are filling options - Avoid using sand! Rating 10/10

No tripod? No problem, custom made rest-bags will keep any large prime lens stable (600mm~1200mm). They can be filled with plastic bead granules, plain rice or sawdust chips. They are designed as fully adjustable rest-bags with twin velcro straps to keep the bags stable at any angle or level. I've tried and tested my designs with heavy AF-S Nikon 600 and 800 AIS lenses with great results. Travelling off-shore with a tripod can be a hassle at times, this is a quick solution for those using large heavy primes or lenses weighing over 3.5Kg. Leaving any location or region is simple - just empty the rest-bag, and refill it when necessary. Sawdust chips can be easily sourced anywhere through the continents. On a recent journey in the Himalaya, I managed to find a pile of  dry sawdust in sub-zero mid-winter temps @ 3800 meters.  

On The Go - Prime Lens Rest Bag

Using a rest-bag gives the opportunities of capturing wildlife in the lowest position possible. It's also more stable and solid than a monopod, or a tripod in certain situations using heavy lenses, like in dugouts in wetland areas.
​Making your own custom rest-bag is relatively simple. A piece of heavy duty waterproof codura material, one ykk zip, and velcro strapping is all that's required.

Nikon 35mm & 105mm - Manual Focus Primes​

Street - Portrait - Diverse 

The above three Nikon manual focus lenses are well known for their precision focus and optical qualities. All 2nd hand lenses should be free of dust, scratches and fungus before purchasing them. Travelling long-term with manual focus lenses within dusty or hot humid environments without protection can quickly destroy manual focus lenses. Fresh silica gel packs will absorb moisture inside camera baggage, a necessity required for any photo-gear. Dust should be removed from lenses before dismounting, including a blow-off wipe down. 

It's 2020, and still, some of Nikon's old classic MF prime lenses from the 80's era are being widely used today. I'm one of them, along with thousands of others who know the feel and quality of solid metal optics that capture great images. The 35mm f/1.4  AI /AI-s, and 105mm f/1.8 AI-s lenses have reliable track records. They are good daily workhorse manual focus primes producing tack sharp images giving great bokeh. Like all classic Nikon lenses, they're full metal construction made to last, and will probably be around for another few decades yet. Adding third party CPU chips to MF lenses allows matrix metering. The Nikon DF body can meter MF lenses from 1981 up (also some earlier models).
Getting out on the street using MF lenses will feel like slow motion to some, but that's part of the enjoyment. These lenses can be purchased through any reputable eBay seller.

Nikon manual focus lenses are rock solid constructed, reliable with great optics. MF lenses can easily fit on many different DSLR & 4/3 cameras. Adaptor rings are required for non-Nikon bodies. CPU chips can also be fitted into most AI/AIS lenses. De-clicking these lenses is straight and simple.   

Nikon - Nikkor 105mm f/1.8 AI-s

Portrait - Street - Diverse 

A favourite classic I personally use from time to time is the 105mm f/1.8 AI-s lens. This lens is also reaching Its 40 year manufacturing date. It's one from many sought after manual focus lenses that photographers & videographers have no hesitation to purchase to use for certain work and subjects.  Rating 10/10

Protection - Wrap Stuff Up​

I avoid carrying lenses in their original pouches. Domke wraps do the job. Some original Nikon lens pouches are made from leather, which in time become a fungus mould trap within damp environments in a short time period. Any invisible traces of dust inside a lens are the culprits that create fungi spores caused from dampness entering inside lenses. Fungi growth will create a spider web of fungus that will eventually eat into the surface of an optic without mercy if lenses are neglected.

Domke wraps are synthetic, and come in a variety of different sizes. They are also large enough to completely wrap up pro bodies. Domke wraps eliminate rub, scratch and rattle when a bunch of lenses are packed together tightly side by side. I've used Domke wraps for lenses and for other items through the African, Middle Eastern, and Asian continents, and swear by them. Backpacks, and gear are usually jammed wherever they can fit, sometimes in under compartments of bush-buses, or on the roof, or on top of jeeps, in soaking dugouts, packed-out trains, crowded boats, and overloaded trucks. None of my photo-gear has sustained any damage, or scratches, or abrasive rubbing abuse. ​ ​Rating 10/10

Many who've  bumped in to me during overland travel journeys have asked the same question time and time again. "Your lenses look brand new without marks or scratches" The secret - Domke Wraps, one of the best designs on the market still today to keep camera-gear safe from excessive wear and tear.      

Overland Travel & Transit Photo-Gear Backpacks

Camera backpacks are many, but some designs won't last long transiting continuously through the sub-continents using local transportation. It's not just about the pack, but what's carried inside a pack if infact the pack has enough protection to protect equipment from being damaged. There are times, when it's safer to purchase an extra seat to safe guard luggage from accidental damage. Locals will walk on top of everything and anything if it's in the way - a nightmare scenario for camera gear. External pockets, loops and fly zippers are vulnerable to being ripped or broken when placed or dragged out from baggage compartments, or from bus roof tops, or from under seats by protruding jagged metal. Oil spills and other liquid content are other normal occurrences during transit soaking backpack harnesses - permanent grime exactly where you don't want it to be. A solution is to place packs into a potato sack or into another pack. The below image shows a Guragear Bataflae 32 litre that can hold 20 Kg of photo-gear placed inside a Lowepro trekker 600AW. The Bataflae is far too thin for valuable photo-gear. After 12 months all the zip pull- lugs broke on this model! 
If you value your photo-gear, this is an alternative solution to carry equipment safely. This ensures a higher margin of protection on board vibrating bush-buses. The Guragear pack can then be used at locations with lenses attached to bodies without having to interchange lenses in wind swept or dusty environments - thus keeping the sensors and optics dust free.

The Gura Gear 32L camera pack is way too thin with minimal protection thickness during overland travel and transit journeys when using basic public transport off the bitumen tarmac. The Gura Gear design overall is a good secondary camera pack for out and about day trips, but isn't recommended as a main photo-gear pack for long term journeys through continents. All outer and inner zipper pull cords on this model failed miserably.      

Below, a Lowepro 600 AW that has survived since 2013 with no zipper failures, rips or damage. Quick spec load capacity - 2-3 pro DSLRs with L Brackets and lenses attached (up to 600mm f/4), 5-9 additional lenses, 2 flash units, tripod or monopod attached, plenty of space for other accessories including a 15" inch laptop.

Overland Travel With Photo-Gear

Have you got long prime lenses, and having trouble looking for a camera pack to accommodate it? no problem, the Kani L 300L lens pack will fit an 800mm lens with a pro-body attached. The Kani L 300L design gets kudu points, because there's no other camera pack on the market like it. It has a heavy duty outer bottom moulding to protect from mud, water, and rough surfaces when placed on the ground. It holds a lens firmly in place during transit, and has enough room to place other small lenses and accessories in and around the main large lens.
The harness system is ok for a few kilometres only, it's not a full swivel harness system.
​I've personally tried and tested this pack over-landing through Nepal, India and Bangladesh using local transport with no issues. Although the Kani L 300L pack is Chinese made, it gets a 9/10 rating, because it's been put to the test, and has carried my photo-gear safely in transit mode without falling to bits since 2016. The Kani pack  (if still available) can be purchased directly from Ali Express  or Amazon.  More images of the Kani pack in the 800mm section ​

Camera Gadget Extras  

If there weren't enough gadgets to lug around with already, there's always something extra that comes in handy. The DR-5 angle view finder and ML-3 cordless remote are two items that are worth their space in the bag. Arca plates are the best solution for any badly designed tripod lens collar foot. Nikon's latest collar foots are poorly designed. Most of Nikon's older large prime lenses were assembled like tanks - including their tripod collar mounting design which supported the weight of the lens as near to the centre of balance when mounted to any tripod.
Any lens with flimsy designed support collars mounted to a tripod in the slightest breeze will give bad results. Placing some added weight on top of the lens may help to keep it stable. ​

One rarely uses these accessories everyday, but imagine not having them when needed half way through any journey in the middle of nowhere in the heart of Africa, or somewhere  between South America and the Himalaya. ​

Time Lapse Exposures 

An oldie, but a goodie, the Nikon MC-36A has been around for a while and still listed as available. If you' do night Time-Lapse, astro-photography etc, this original OEM 10 pin remote shutter will get the job done. There's plenty of other wing-bling copies on the market for under half the price, but if they fail, it's guaranteed to happen on location in the middle of nowhere while being used. I purchased the one above 2nd hand in mint condition from B&H photo USA.  ​Rating 10/10

Overland Travel - Lightweight Reflector 

A light reflector comes in handy when shooting street portraits in low light situations. There are times when these are required on locals to shade their head from strong light, or to reflect light on the subject. They are an essential tool to diffuse, dim, and create softer warmer tones on faces.  Rating 10/10

Backing Up - In Transit Mode​

Today, manually backing up images is relatively fast with all the various high-speed hard drives available. Cloud storage is ok when there's an internet connection. The possibilities of even finding a slow 56kb line in the middle of nowhere is pushing it in certain regions around the planet. Traveling with only one external hard drive is a no brainer - just like having one camera body if it fails to work. The launch of high meg pixel cameras like the D850 will fill a 1TB external hard drive quicker than most think. Imagine connecting to cloud, and trying to upload a few hundred 45 mega pixel raw files on a 56k landline connection in the middle of the Congo, the Amazon, or Ladakh.
Most who travel doing the hard yards have their own ideas of what's best for backup. External hard drives are like laptops - sensitive prone due to moving internal parts which can fail from one day to the next. Additional protective outer cases for external hard drives are a must. It only takes one drop for any external hard drive to fail. Another alternative are solid state hard drives, but the cost of SSDs are still above the roof.
Dropping any external hard drive on the ground without any protective outer case will kill it immediately. Most external hard drives also dislike extreme temperature changes, like sticky humid or sub-zero conditions, or within scorching heat for any extended length of time. On quick trip journeys, this isn't an issue to fuss over. On long-haul overland travel journeys, using local transport crossing, and zig-zagging through an entire continent, one must take certain precautions to safeguard the storage data itself. 
Imagine the amount of time involved collecting thousands of images through a continent, and a backup hard drive fails in the middle of nowhere. I've always been on the safe side, and carry a variety of external backup accessories to save data on two, or 3 different drives just in case the inevitable happens. Backing up files twice becomes automatic. Loading images up to cloud is definitely inaccessible within many isolated regions in Asia, South America and Africa. Even if there was a possibility to do so, most internet connections only run at 56kb speed. I'm still using a 1st generation UDMA Colorspace with a few 1 & 2 TB Rugged Lacies. It's important to have a ton of extra backup space with an assortment of different external drives. A supply of Flash cards and flash drives are the smallest options, but they can be easily misplaced or lost.  A good quality water tight container box for loose key items will keep everything in check. Extra batteries, spare chargers, cables, universal plugs, cards, adaptors, external hard drives, cleaning equipment, power adaptors, etc. are all vital accessories that will be eventually used over a 1-3 year off-shore overland travel journey.   ​

Lots of storage backup is required for long term travel - over supply is better than under supply. This 1st edition UDMA Colorspace has clocked up tons of overland transit milage through all the continents. It's still operating perfectly (Jan 2020). A new 1 TB hard drive and battery are simple to replace (3 minutes). Reliability comes first. This is another rare moment to give a Chinese made product  10/10. 

Overland Travel - Battery Juice

A surplus battery supply is highly recommended. it's actually better to purchase brand new batteries for extended travel before departure rather than carting a pile of used batteries that maybe reaching their use by date. Videography and Time-Lapse will drain and suck batteries dry in no time. Stock up, if ravelling through Africa and South America. It's impossible to find replacement batteries in the middle of nowhere. Personally, I haven't had any issues with airlines (outside the USA) in regards to the amount of extra batteries packed in checked baggage. If possible, keep spare batteries in their original boxes with the plastic terminal covers attached (shown below), this keeps airline terminal security happy. ​​ Rating 10/10

Dandelion CPU Chip for Nikon MF Lenses

Most Nikon F mounted bayonet manual focus lenses from 1959 up can be easily updated with a Dandelion CPU chip which then gives full exposure metering just like later model AF lenses do. The Dandelion chip designed by Victor Luchnikov can be easily purchased off eBay. ​Rating 10/10

D3-D3s-D3x - Still Tough Workhorses In 2020!

Will your camera survive a solo overland journey through the continents of Asia, Africa and South America? How tough and robust is the D3 body design? This French You-Tube video by Pixelistes proves more than enough evidence how tough the D3 design really is. I don't think there's a mirrorless design camera as yet out there that would even pass the 1st test, let alone all 5 tests. Reliability is first priority before anything else over landing through the continents, especially for long periods at a time. The images below are screenshots from the original Pixelistes You-Tube video (2013) ​

Nikon D3 2021 

My D3 body shows no signs of failure fatigue, this daylight workhorse just keeps on doing what it does best. 

Overland Travel Photo-Gear

Asia-Africa-South America-Middle East

Travelling across continents with a point and shoot along with DSLR photo-gear is recommended. Point and shoots are able to capture quick snaps on the go non-stop. They come in handy during transit journeys on board bush-buses, trains and during transit-stops. Most point and shoot brands today have been tweaked with innovated user friendly settings, raw, and 4K video. Point and shoots are superior than smart phone cameras - hands down! At the moment, I'm satisfied using a Sony RX100 V for daytime on the go snaps. Sony has upgraded in quick succession launching the RX100 VII1 in Nov 2020. Keeping these mini cameras dust and damp free will keep them going for several years.  Rating 8/10

Random street snaps captured with a Sony RX100 V point and shoot.  ​

Overland Travel DSLR Gear

Are you a solo travel street Photographer? and into random portraiture, wildlife, astro, on the go, and anything else in-between? Thinking of doing a long-term solo overland journey through Africa or South America? or maybe an overland transit journey from Europe to Japan? The bonus of having a selection of lenses to capture rewarding images is  recommended. One lens will struggle doing the job for everything. Some will debate this, but through the years of travelling solo up and down, and across countries and continents, a series of lenses are better than with just one lens. I'm talking four decades here of solo overland travel and transit. I'm probably one of those rare "old-school" dudes left on the planet - still travelling off-shore since the early eighties. I use Nikon-gear, but the options and choices of using other brands out there today are equally just as good.
​I would certainly recommend traveling with at least 3 lenses. Depending on which photographic interests and favourite passions, a couple of primes and zoom lens will cover almost everything. My own photo-gear above isn't the latest high-tech equipment, but these lenses do the job. Building up a collection of lenses to travel with takes time. It depends on availability, preference and personal cash-flow. None of my bodies or lenses are lazy - everything gets used. As mentioned several times through this website, quality and reliability of equipment is imperative for any long-term overland travel journey. Avoid investing in items or products which haven't been tried and tested outside their comfy zone.

De-Clicked Lenses - Do It Yourself

Below, a de-clicked Nikon 35mm f/1.4 AI lens  - time duration to de-click start to finish - approximately one hour   

Blow & Wipe

A blower brush, eyeglass cleaner, lens cloths, including soft and hard mini brushes are necessities.

Cleaning photo gear each evening after a day's shoot is an automatic procedure on the road. The amount of invisible dust mounting up on lenses used outdoors is a normal occurrence. Dust build-up happens everywhere. lenses can become completely coated with dust within short periods.
​Personally, I don't change optics outdoors, unless it's a priority to do so. Mounting lenses on bodies the night before heading outside is recommended. Checking out locations the day before usually verifies which lens or lenses are required.

​Refillable air canisters are superior than a hand blower, but are bulky to cart around. Small mini facial powder brushes, optical eyeglass cleaner, and a few soft cloths can be found almost anywhere. A good reliable blower brush should be purchased well in advance before any long-term solo overland journey begins. Good brands are impossible to find in the middle of nowhere when needed. 

Which Filters?​​

2 Way Contact & Mini Binis

A small pair of waterproof binoculars will come in handy crossing continents. When you don't carry a set - it's always when you need a set. The Minox brand I can certainly vouch for, They're well designed, small, robust and waterproof, with quality precision German made optic glass. This set has enough magnification to focus on wildlife, birds and landscape. Travelling with large heavy binoculars isn't recommended, unless they're being used daily. Rating 10/10

Walkie talkies are a luxury usually necessary only for those who travel in pairs. If traveling solo, they can also be used at isolated locations with others during trekking, climbing, or any region with minimal sat/nav/cell communications.
Sets with a 40+km range are recommended for locations that are built up, like mountainous areas. Mobile cell phones struggle in isolated regions. Walkie's are good for emergency backup if needed. Don't flash these around in sensitive areas that may have military presence in countries with internal conflict. You may lose them, including a rigorous interrogation wasting time. 
As of yet, Walkie's are not classified as sensitive equipment in most countries - except India, Pakistan, Iran, Israel, Egypt, DRC, Sudan, Eritrea, Venezuela, and Cuba. I've used the set above, a pair of Midland since 2007 with great results in mountainous regions. Good brands can be purchased at hunting shops.  Rating 8/10

Photography Equipment - Fungus  

Damp Humid Environments Are The Worst Enemy For Photo-Gear

Are you hanging out in tropical environments travelling with camera gear? If so, silica-gel will be required to suck the moisture out of camera bags. lenses are vulnerable within humid and damp cold climates. Lenses will eventually get fungus spores if placed in damp moisture filled camera bags over a short time period. ​

It only takes a spec of damp dust trapped inside on lens optics for fungus spores to begin contaminating across optical glass like a dark black spider web within a few weeks. Silica Gel crystals keep fungus controlled with photo gear in most environments. I can personally say these dry silica packs do work. This particular brand will last around 5-7 days before requiring a recharge in a microwave. Depending on the amount of moisture and humidity, the dry packs may need to be recharged earlier. The crystals will slowly turn from orange to brown. The cartridges can be placed directly into any microwave for 30-60 seconds, and repeated a few times. Removing the silica from the cartridges into a glass bowel, micro wave for 2 minutes for 10+ packets. Repeat the processes again until the gel turns to orange.
​It's important to allow the silica to cool down before re-heating again. The process may need to be repeated 3-4 times. Heating the gel in ovens is another option. Silica gel is an alternative to dry box storage. Photo-gear can also be placed in quality "sealed" travel suitcases with silica cartridges instead of a dry-box. Another option on short duration 2-3 week journeys are small sealed silica packets, which are normally used for food products. Throwing a pile of these inside camera bags will absorb, and keep moisture at bay up to 2 weeks. Bagging-up camera-gear in the cold, before entering warm environments is also recommended. This can be done in the opposite way as well i.e. air con rooms to outdoor humid temperatures. 

Extreme Humidity & Damp Environments Kill Lenses

This is what happens to lenses that become contaminated with fungi - a complete disassembly pull down to clean the optics from fungi spores before the contamination turns into full fungus growth, which will literally eat into optical glass rendering them useless if left late. When photo-gear has been within any damp humid environment, or have been sitting in damp camera bags, the possibility of fungi spores forming on lens optics is highly probable. Using a mini torch light to look through a lens can freak you out. Lenses containing dust specs are vulnerable to activate fungus. Any lens with dust just needs the right humid conditions dampening dust to begin the process of a spider web of fungus. Leather bags and leather pouches are fungi breeders when damp. If a lens shows signs of fungi spores on optics, the lens should be separated from others lenses, and the camera bag completely dried out. It doesn't take long for air borne fungi spores to enter into other lenses. If lenses show early symptoms of fungi specs (a spider web is late stage), get it serviced asap. This AF-S Nikkor 600mm f/4 showed signs of slight fungus on one of the middle optics. It was pulled down, cleaned,  and fully serviced by Nikon Tokyo.

AquaTech Soft Hood - Save Space In The Bag

Are you running out of room in the camera bag? Many large prime lenses come with bulky single or 2 piece hoods. The diameter of large hoods do hog room space. The best solution solving this problem is to replace the solid original hood with a foldable hood that can flatten out and packed as a flat item.  Image: AF-S Nikon 600mm f/4D IF-ED lens with an AquaTech soft hood attached  Rating 10/10

AquaTech Soft Hood - Heavy Duty Replacement 

The robust heavy duty AquaTech soft hood replacement is the perfect solution for solid bulky hoods, or for any large prime lenses that have a damaged or lost hood that are no longer available from the OEM distributor. The Aquatech soft hood is designed with strong wide velcro made for easy mounting. The adjustable snap-on fasteners also secure the  hood on the lens keeping it firm and attached in any extreme weather environment.

Aquatech also designed an awesome replacement or additional front lens protector caps when out at locations. The slip-on cap design is made from thick soft rubber. It is easily inserted into the front of the lens, and can be attached or removed super-fast.
​The cap will protect the front lens glass from sea spray, scratches, dust, and rain at any location. Like all lens caps before remounting, they should be clean of dust and dirt to avoid scratching the front optic during transit. AquaTech soft cups are available in different sizes. 

Nikon Nikkor 800 f/5.6 ED AI-S 

No matter what new innovated lens technology evolves, large long prime lenses will still be around and used for a while yet. Personally, I can't see any wildlife photographers giving up their long prime lenses for one obvious reason - there's nothing on the market that can match, or replace the powerful sharp glass that long prime lenses have. Nikon and Canon are still producing, and updating long prime lenses for wildlife and landscape photographers. Powerful long primes have been out of reach for budget photographers, because of their expense, but into today's market of global second hand photo gear, the opportunity to purchase a super-tele prime has become more affordable. As long as camera manufacturers keep producing new updated versions, the cycle of 2nd hand long prime lenses  will continue to get cheaper. KEH and Japanese eBay sellers are 2 good options to purchase almost any lenses imaginable.  Is the Nikon 800mm f/5.6 IF-ED lens worth its weight to carry around?  Rating 10/10

Nikon Nikkor AF-S 600mm f/4 1996-2020 

Nikon and Canon still keep producing long range prime lenses non-stop. The global market for long powerful primes has increased to maximum levels over the last decade. Wildlife, landscape and sports photographers who are not sponsored wouldn't hesitate purchasing used Nikon or Canon 600mm or 800mm lenses for the right price. What is the right price you ask? Around half the cost of a new one. For example, I saw a series III Nikon 600mm f/4 lens selling for $4ooo, it was snapped-up as quickly as it was posted for sale online. In India, I recently bumped into a couple of amateur bird photographers, both with the latest Nikon 600mm E FL VR 600 lenses attached to D5's (happy guys).
In general, prime lenses are superior than zoom lenses of the same focal length. They are shaper, and don't require extra elements moving to focus like zoom lenses require, thus eliminating diffraction. One of the first two things most wildlife or sports photographer will do before purchasing long primes, is to look at the reach capabilities and the maximum aperture of any lens. Super-tele lenses are heavy to lug around, and awkward to capture the perfect shot, but the rewards out weigh weight issues - just ask anyone using long powerful prime lenses. Rating 10/10

Capturing close-up snaps like above are simple using long powerful prime lenses like the 600mm & 800mm

 Both images were captured using a classic manual focus Nikkor 800mm f/5.6 ED-IF AIS lens with a D3S 12MP body.

 Need More Reach? - Teleconverters 

Teleconverters come in handy from time to time, although most converters do rob one or two F-stops of light entering through the lens. Carrying one of these little magnifiers in the camera bag will become valuable for any wildlife, or surfing snapper, including moon shots  and anything else that's distant. There's always a large supply of second converters for sale on eBay. ​

The Nikon AF-I TC-14E works well with the 800mm f/5.6 ED-IF AI-S lens   

Replacement & Upgrades

There are many reasons for upgrading photo-gear. It can be for faster frame rates, larger format, or switching brands. The cost of upgrading to newer model cameras will also depend how much time and usage it gets. It's certainly not worth any price tag replacing photo-gear if it's not being used. If camera bodies are working fine, capturing great snaps without any electronic issues - why replace them? Repairing camera bodies or lenses versus replacement gear depends on cost repairs. Normally, when semi-pro cameras require replacement shutters (at OEM maximum shutter actuations), it's time to let them go before something else fails. Some 2007 to 2011 DSLR pro-bodies by Nikon are known to have had replacement shutters totalling another 300K, or more actuations without failing.   

Used Photo Gear - Is It Reliable?    

"Reliability is proven by anything designed that can withstand its use by date without servicing, and continues to perform without issues well past any time frame to replace functioning parts recommended by the original manufacturer"
The Nikon D3 is a non stop daylight work horse 
The Nikon D3 without doubt has a proven track record many times over - globally, including the Nikon D3s/D3x. The above D3 was for sale in 2016. It had clocked up 850,000 actuations until the shutter failed (that's 550,000 shutter actuations past its recommended limit of a shutter replacement). The D3 was designed in 2007, this old reliable daylight workhorse still has the legs even in 2019 to handle what ever punishment one can throw at it. The price for used D3 bodies has fallen through the roof. A bonus for those who want a tough reliable camera body that will handle any long-term overland journey through the continents.
​A shutter replacement for a D3/s/x is around $300usd. There are plenty of D3 bodies on the market that still have low actuation counts (10k - 50k). This particular D3 with 850k shutter counts will probably do another 850k with a replacement shutter. A D3S sensor upgrade into a D3 body will also give it better low light capabilities that the D3 sensor struggles to do (something to think about).
​Nikon D3 manual, Nikon D3S manual, Nikon D3X manual, Nikon D4 manual, Nikon D4S manual, Nikon D5 manual

Photo Gear Through The Decades

I've used all kinds of photo-gear since the late 70's. The roll-film days had the same amount of hype amongst brands as they do today. The only difference, is the amount of upgraded models being released each year. Through the decades, I stuck with Nikon because of reliability. The F2, F2AS, FE2, FA, and F3 bodies were tried and tested over-landing through continents surviving bump and grind, dust, dirt, war zone regions, humid conditions, high altitude, and extreme heat and sub-zero temperatures. Canon, Minolta, and Pentax were probably just as reliable, but I never switched brands. I had a soft spot for medium formats, and had several Mamiya models (6x6-C330, 6x7 RB, Mamiya 7). These weren't carted around across continents, because of their bulkiness, although the C330 was bought and used in South America.   

I had used a couple of Nikon F2AS bodies through Central & South America, Middle East, and Asia for quite a few years. They were reliable in any environment whether hot or cold. Replacement F3 screens were used in both bodies. Nikon in Ginza-Tokyo were even amazed when inspecting both bodies from the amount of overland transit milage they clocked up through continents. Below location snap shows the F2AS's being used in sub-zero temps below -10C.

Still today, I use Nikon-gear, a favourite combo, is the D3S & manual focus Nikkor 800mm f/5.6 ED-IF AI-S lens. The snap below shows both body and lens being used @4300 M (14107 ft) altitude in mid-winter capturing Snow Leopards at Chicham bridge. The lens and body have been successfully tried and tested on several occasions in +50C desert heat & sub-zero temps from -10C to -25C (14 f to -13 f) with zero issues  - i.e. no lens grease melting or seizing focus, no moisture or fungus issues, no failures whatsoever using the D3 & D3S in extreme environments, new OEM batteries held their juice in sub-zero temps without rapid draining (-10C to -25C using a manual focus lens)
I was also fortunate on this overland journey to self-spot, track and capture Snow Leopards without the aid of local spotters (from Chicham & Kibber) well away from other wildlife photographers within a quiet remote region!