PHOTO GEAR - Overland Travel & Transit

South America : Africa : Asia : Middle East

For most happy going street photographers any photo gear used for offshore travel journeys will usually only be a short time period of a week or two, or up to a month and no more. Photo gear used on a short trips will eventually return home, and placed safely back in the cupboard or into a dry box. This is the total opposite for those who are basically like wandering gypsies over-landing somewhere through countries and continents traveling with photo-gear for long periods at a time. Most camera equipment will end up being tried and tested through different types of climatic seasonal conditions, and natural elements out in the field. If using basic transport, contents in camera bags can easily become vulnerable to damage if not properly packed down. Robust designed camera bags will protect photo gear from drops, knocks, and the continuous bump and grind crossing through countries across continents.

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Freaking out during overland travel journeys happens to those who aren't familiar with their camera gear. I've lost count how many times I've met people offshore who only new basic adjustments with camera settings. It's recommended to use new purchased photo gear well in advance before heading overseas. Most top camera brands keep the same external and internal adjustments in the same place. Give me a pro Canon or Sony body and I wouldn't have a clue where to begin. I've been a Nikon user since the early eighties and have no intention switching. Point and shoots can be just as complicated with fiddly endless internal menus. Nothings more frustrating capturing images that are out of focus, blurred, burnt or under exposed from user error. Knowing your camera settings makes a difference. 

Below, Chinese tourists really looking the part, dressed like pro-photographers with pro-photo gear, but unfortunately they were far from it. I had watched them from distance where I was setup using a tripod and lens, they lacked what most street photographers would normally accomplish. The quick snaps they did take could of easily been captured using simple smart phone cameras instead. When in the thick of it offshore carrying photo gear, like these Chinese tourists below, at least put your DSLR stuff into good use, or invest in a little point and shoot, or just use junky smart phones cameras instead. The amazing thing that one notices, is that all four Chinese tourists are using Made in Japan photo gear. We all know why that is - Chinese cameras wouldn't last the milage in baggage let alone capture tack sharp images past 20 metres.

Below, Chinese tourists offshore using smart phone cameras to get the shot. Like mentioned above, anything that can produce an image is better than nothing at all. Smart phone cameras have limitations when used out of their range, even 3-5 lens smart cameras are useless when put to the test capturing sharp tack images past 50 metres. Street, landscape and wildlife photographers traveling offshore don't rely on junky smart phone cameras to get their shots. They capture images using real camera gear - Got It?     

South America - DSLR Photo Gear

Traveling solo overland through Socialist Venezuela twice without loss of camera gear. 

There's nothing like testing out your street savvy skills within countries known to have excessive crime and extortion in broad daylight. Socialist Venezuela certainly isn't a country for the weak or faint hearted. I've personally traveled extensively throughout South America clocking up numerous overland journeys from top to bottom of the continent with the first journey way back in '88. Fast forwarding to the last overland journey, I had entered Venezuela with five lenses and two full frame DSLR bodies entering Venezuela from Brazil and existed to Colombia with nothing pillaged, lost or stolen. Three months later I reentered Venezuela with the same photo gear, and again traveled solo throughout the country capturing street images and landscape snaps without any loss of equipment. It was impossible to find other foreigners in Colombia who wanted to join me through Venezuela. This is the difference between yuppie flight baby tourists filled with fear, and those who actually do travel crossing through countries taking each day as it comes. Yes, local officials tried all different types of corruption tactics on me without success. I've been very self-aware of most extortion and all kinds of thieving tricks since the '80s. Traveling through countries containing lawlessness without loss of baggage, cash and photo gear is done by using your own instinct and awareness of what's around you, and by using the appropriate interactive skills to avoid being targeted. Being street smart is more important today offshore than it was pre-SARS-CoV-2. People are broke, jobs are lost, and money is tight. Blame it on the lockdowns, blame it on whatever you wish. The planet has been hijacked and will never be like it was pre-March 2020. Those days are gone never to return. Being based offshore, I've seen the change in people, the personal emotion of locals, their dilemmas, the suffering, so don't think the grass is any greener elsewhere. The globalists have an agenda, and their agenda didn't start in 2020. Those who may think it did are very naive.
Note, Asians are the most robbed foreigners throughout South America. They make themselves become easy targets because of their tunnel street vision tendencies. 

Going Offshore? - Use DSLR Gear

Above, my favourite 85mm f/1.4 street portrait lens attached to a D780 full frame body

Don't think twice, travel with real photo gear offshore. Quality DSLR cameras and lenses have a proven track record capturing whatever the subject matter is. Think about how many idiots who thought their cell cameras could manage capturing images that even DSLR users struggle at times within certain environments. Those traveling offshore for 12 months or more relying on their smart phone cameras to capture the same quality shots that DSLR cameras are designed for are dreaming. I've seen it time and time again through the continents, people regretting they didn't travel with real photo gear. It's your choice, but at the end of the day when it comes around to post processing all those images taken with smart phones, it will be more than disappointing. Even the large black & white street snap below taken with a D3 body with a 1977-81 35mm f/1.4 AI lens @f/1.4 matches or surpasses smart phone camera junk.   

No matter the continent, anyone who has met me offshore know I use real photo gear to capture my shots. Even if Apple, or other smart phone manufacturers were to freely offer their latest smart phone junk - I wouldn't use it period!    

Have you ever tried capturing closeup images of alpha baboons within their own habitat? We're not talking about random baboon troops roaming around tourist zones in the CapeTown region or elsewhere. These baboons are usually part of the troop with the alpha hidden out of sight nearby. To successfully photograph a boss alpha, one requires to hang out patiently in lowland bush areas that show signs of fresh baboon droppings and movement. Don't waste your time using point and shoots or smart phone junk. You need DSLR photo gear with reasonable long range lenses of 400mm up. The below alpha was captured midmorning using an AFS 200-400 f/4 VRII lens on DX mode (600mm). With regret, I also had an AFS 600 f/4 at the same location but didn't take the risk switching lenses. Within a minute or two after taking this shot the alpha retreated back into bushland.  

Closeup Street Portraits - DSLR Photo Gear

Interacting first with street subjects works every time. 

These days you read and hear a lot about so many people blogging about how rude or inappropriate it is to photograph strangers in public places. What a load of rubbish. Only weak timid woke foreigners offshore will agree with this because they probably haven't a clue how to interact with strangers in the first place. Too much isolated social media, zoom calls and the lack of meeting people in real-time is partially to blame. If one first uses their ability to use whatever interaction levels they have with subjects first, one can easily capture closeup street portraits like above. I've been capturing closeup street portraits of total strangers for decades without negative flack back through all the continents no matter their faith or religious belief system. The above closeup street portrait was taken with a Nikon D3 and AF 28mm f/1.4D lens.
Those who know how close one must to get using an AF 28mm prime lens will acknowledge how close I was to this local's face. He shows no irritation, no flinching, and certainly no negativity. Why not? Because I used the correct interaction levels with him prior before capturing this shot.     

 Nikon DSLR - 2007-2022 

Nikon has lost the plot. Nikon like other camera manufacturers require to follow the herd keeping their heads above water or suffer. Nikon's latest D6 and D780 full frame DLSR's are examples of too much overloaded inbuilt junk. It's called - covering all bases at all costs. It wasn't long ago when Nikon actually designed cameras for what they were actually intended for - capturing still images and nothing else. Those days are well gone. Today, the need of more and more over excessive user options is where it's at. Do I like using the D780? No not really. The D780 is the complete opposite of the classic D3. Do I need video - No, Do I need wifi or bluetooth - No, Do I need tilt rear monitor - No, Do I need 204K ISO - No. I just want a camera that is capable of capturing still images and nothing more. In my opinion, Nikon's best DSLR era began in 2007 and started fizzling in 2015. Just like laptops and smart phones, cameras now have inbuilt tracking, monitor and surveillance of your every move, including all images taken.

Above, out in the field, in the middle of nowhere in harsh extreme environments, the least things I have never required or needed in DSLR cameras are wifi, bluetooth, and video. Who needs that shit? I can take videos on any point and shoot or cell phone, rather than suck the daylights out of DSLR batteries in subzero temps. Believe it or not, the D3/S does the job. The D3 captures quality images in any daylight environment. Lenses are more important than camera bodies - Got It?
Those who have never used manual focus lenses don't know what they're missing out on in photography sense. One can easily take a dozen image captures with autofocus lenses with zero gratification. Manual lenses are totally the opposite. The feel of using manual lenses are unique. Firstly, manual lenses are made of metal, they're heavier than auto focus lenses. Twisting manual focus lenses to get focus isn't a burden, it's pure satisfaction from start to finish to capture one shot. I use manual focus lenses on DSLR bodies usually for non-moving subjects.    

Below, an RRS (Really Right Stuff USA) TFA-01 - 1st version pocket mini pod holding 7Kgs (15.4 lbs) of weight. Now that's one tough little mini pod that can handle a whole lot of weight. The Nikkor 800 5.6 is 5.5kg, and the D3 with battery and L-bracket comes in at 1.5Kg. According to RRS, their TFA-01 can handle holding 15 lbs. Personally, I use other tripod gear for the 800 5.6, but at least one knows for sure, that RRS products no matter the size are excellent quality made items. The TFA-01 below has been used for time-lapse, video and still photography since 2013. It's now 2022, that's eight years offshore using good reliable photo gear that just keeps on going.          

I've used Nikon gear since '82, thats's right, since 1982. My first Nikon SLR body was a clean '74 F2 Photomic. The F2 was used through various solo overland journeys through Africa, Middle East, Europe and Australasia. On one occasion when buying roll-film in Tel Aviv, the shop owner pulled out an F2 that had seen better days. The body looked as though it had suffered some very serious action, and it was still working. In actual fact, the F2 was one of the only items that had survived an air crash. Since those early years of solo overland travel, I've kept using Nikon photo gear without encountering a single mishap or defect with the numerous Nikon SLR and DSLR bodies I've used. Personally, the reliability of using any product offshore definitely goes a long way, and determines the trust of the design. Even my D800 is still working perfectly in 2022 with no AFS single point issues. The D3 and D3S have been reliable workhorses for many years. Both bodies have been used for weeks on end in subzero temps of minus -33C (-27F) and in desert heat of +51C (+124F). The D7100 DX and D780 FX bodies are great all round street camera bodies, and both mount manual focus lenses from '77 up.
Even in 2022, the D3/S bodies are still my favourite go to bodies for street and wildlife photography. They work, they get the shots, and have never failed me not once.   

Canon has killed Pro-DSLRs for Mirrorless but Mirrorless has issues and problems

Other street photographers in 2022 probably think it's insane to be still stuck in time using outdated heavy cumbersome nostalgic photo gear. The Nikon D3/S are actually great handling DSLR bodies that comfortably fit perfectly in your hand at any given angle. The D3/S have everything one requires for daylight outdoor still photography. The 12MP sensor is more than adequate enough, and all those 1000's of captured NEF Raw files certainly don't clog up storage space that other mega large camera sensors quickly do.
​Even stepping further back, when using those classic solid manual focus Nikkor lenses, one quickly experiences that real photographic feel about them. Capturing 100 street snaps with autofocus lenses is done in a few seconds, but taking a single image using manual focus lenses requires lag time. What's the rush and where's the enjoyment? A single image capture taken with manual focus lenses will normally have more appreciative value. Below, the D3 and zoom Nikkor 80-200 f/4 AIS mounted on an RRS (Really Right Stuff) TFA-01 mini pocket pod. (Asia 2022)               

Photography Offshore - Advisory Warning!

Although in most cases there is minimal issues to photograph semi-naked adults within their tribal communities - Don't cross the grey area and refrain capturing images of naked children. Riverside locations are normally hectic and busy with naked children running in all directions. The below image is solely posted here for reference only of tribal children having fun down at their local river. This image is posted here for maximum impact - Avoid exploiting children naked or clothed.
1 voluntourism : 2 child photo props : 3 UK Crown law : 4 Banned naked child photo exhibit Sydney : 5 Child tourism

The Mega Pixel Circus

The mega pixel circus in 2021 is still the greatest selling point for all camera brands and smart phones - What a joke! ​

Below, a tatty 6x7 cm proof sheet image enlargement from the 1990's. If the actual original negative was used, not just a blow up from the proof sheet above, it would be the equivalent of 100+ megapixels, and match or surpass most junk out there on the market today. Film verses digital review

Shopping For Photo-Gear? - Shinjuku Tokyo

The best place to purchase a used Rolex watch is in Switzerland - the original country where they're made. This is the same for photographic equipment made in Japan. The amount of used camera equipment in Japan is more than what you can imagine. Some camera shops are so large, they have individual floors for each brand. For instance, there could be a selection of 10 used Nikon D3 or D4 bodies, with each body individually priced by their condition, and actuation shutter count. Japanese second hand camera equipment is like finding piles of gold. In most cases, the Japanese look after their camera-gear for years without having dents or scratches, and still have the original box, and manuals.
Prices for used photo-gear in Japan is very reasonable, compared to Europe, Australia and NZ. This goes for camera lenses as well. For instance, within Shinjuku, one shop on the 3rd floor had a selection of fifteen of the same lens available at different prices. A lens with minor marks or scratches will normally sell for under half the cost of a mint lens of the same model. Usually, a minimum 3 month guarantee is offered with used purchased photo-gear. Shinjuku has enough used camera equipment of every make, brand and format one could imagine. Shopping around is recommended, other cities also have surplus supplies of used camera-gear - Osaka, Nagoya and Kagoshima to mention a few. Those already on an overland journey without camera equipment, or wanting to upgrade a few lenses, and intending visiting Japan, this is the country of choice to purchase good used photo-gear.

Nikon would of closed down decades ago if they kept producing lenses that were almost indestructible. I found this 1960's 50mm f/1.4 lens down a side-street alley in Asia. It had the usual knocks and scrapes, but the lens had no dust or fungus. I walked away with it as a paper weight give away. Classic all metal constructed lenses shows how little has changed optically through the decades. It's all about cosmetic user-friendly changes to stimulate sales to reduce manufacturing costs. This 50mm 1.4 only requires a file down on the aperture ring to work on any Nikon DSLR, or 4/3 body with an adapter ring. De-clicking these lenses is straight forward to keep them silent for street videography.  ​Rating 7/10

Photo-Gear - How Reliable Is It?

Quality constructed camera-gear can usually take a beating within most environments. Have you ever mistakenly dropped a camera body onto hard surfaces? like on pavements, concrete, roads, or rocky surfaces? Some have, and the body ceased to function or work. Others were more fortunate enough to have their cameras survive more than one casual drop - because of its construction. In today's fast lane of replacement updates, mirrorless bodies are hip - Just don't drop those auto fixed focused mirrorless bodies, or submerge them too long in water if using one. At the moment, only the more expensive pro-mirrorless bodies are capable of surviving knocks and drops on a weekly basis.   ​

​Choosing photo gear that can handle all types of punishment and abuse over-landing  through continents is a must priority. In most cases, don't expect quick repairs or replacements with defunct mirrorless bodies within isolated regions in the middle of nowhere. The choice of traveling with heavy weighted DSLR camera bodies with proven track records for reliability is something to think about for those heading offshore into the wilderness and the beyond. No matter the brand, any paper lightweight mirrorless camera versus the more robust heavy-weighted DSLR bodies will lose its status when put through long duration journeys crossing continents. Reliability comes first - Choose wisely.    ​​

Manual Zoom - Nikkor 80-200 1:4 AIS

There's no argument, some of Nikon's older lenses are still as good today as they were in the 1980s. The Nikkor 80-200mm f/4 AIS is certainly one of them. Getting accurate focusing with this lens is a breeze with its 260 degree focus throw. The quality of the 80-200 AIS is how lenses used to be - all metal construction, quality optics and craftsmanship. Holding one of these lenses quickly reveals Nikon's presentation detail with fully engraved markings and filled in letters. I use this lens for nearby compositions. It's not really the type of lens for astro or distant wildlife. It's a slow motion street lens that can still perform on most DSLR's and 3/4 cameras.  

Below, a random street snap taken on Jan 1st 2022 in Asia captured with the Nikkor zoom 80-200 AIS. The lens although four decades old attached to a 2007 D3 body still captures amazing images. The 260 degree focus throw on this lens makes it a breeze to get precise focus. Colour resolution is awesome. Zoom creep is very normal on push pull lenses. Street photographers out there who are used to using heavy DSLR bodies will find no problem with this lens combo. The D3 and 80-200 AIS packs a total weight of 2.2kg. Some might be asking why do I still use old classic lenses and 12MP bodies? Probably because I'm an old school nut enjoying using old school camera stuff. 

Offshore Photo Gear - In Transit

Solo overland travel through countries across continents with a ton of photo gear is nothing new - people including myself do it all the time. Looking after equipment on the other hand is a mission in itself, and solely depends on the ability to load and off-load baggage independently no matter what transport is used. Bush buses through Africa, boats up and down the Amazon, and Himalayan mountain transport all have the same things in common - lots of vibration, with excess baggage treated, and handled all the same way - rough as guts. At times, any excess baggage loaded on bus roof tops will be off-loaded in the fastest and quickest fashion to save time - thrown off the side. This is normal procedure with local's baggage, so don't expect any VIP status being a foreigner. Loading your own baggage is a smart move, but one must remember most bush bus roof tops are also used to accommodate the overflow of passengers. Your baggage may become a make shift bed squashing its contents for a day or two, or walked on a dozen times or more, so transiting as a passenger on the roof top isn't a bad idea to safeguard baggage (grabbing snap shots, and videos in transit mode on top of bush buses is a bonus). 
Most baggage floor holds in boats and buses in the middle of nowhere are either oil soaked from engine parts being transported, or from surplus oil and tools that are used when buses break down, or require repairs or service en-route. Other issues, are worn out roof top structures, and rough baggage hold compartments that have protruding sharp jagged metal edges, and worn out pointed screws, which will rip anything open like cat food from a tin can when baggage is dragged out by local baggage handlers.

Reaching far away continents first by air with large heavy lenses isn't at all a hassle if you've done it a few times like myself. For example, the above Nikkor 800 5.6 when air transported is kept in its original Nikon case. The lens is also placed into another suitcase with clothing packed around it. The suitcase gets a triple shrink wrap at airports with "fragile glass" stickers plastered around it. Once on the ground, the 800 5.6 begins all its overland journeys packed inside a slimline lens backpack. Never once over the last six years has there been any damage to the lens, or any other camera gear. Off course, one has to establish an offshore home base for extended long-term overland journeys within continents. 

Depending how excess photo gear is packed down inside baggage, it may survive a few times, but over a year or two transiting through Africa, or the Middle East or across South America, contents and baggage will get damaged if it's not personally handled personally by yourself. Each time when loading and off-loading occurs, it's safer to always load your own baggage stuff to and from public transport. In transit mode, taking anything for granted is a grave mistake, especially when baggage is manhandled by local operators that treat baggage as cow fodder. Purchasing a second seat does solve all the above issues, but this becomes expensive for those on tight budgets. Rough baggage handling, and oil soaked baggage storage compartments are common scenarios on any solo transit journey over-landing through continents. Screaming will do you no good at all when backpacks and baggage contents are damaged caused by local bush bashing baggage handlers. You only have yourself to blame, and no one else, if this happens to your travel baggage stuff and junk.

If cameras are still fully functional taking great images - why update? This Argentinean freelancer was using a pretty scruffy worn out D800 grabbing snaps on steroids. Those worried about camera body cosmetic appearances are usually the type who will never push past boundaries, spend more time on social media, and keep their cameras permanently zipped up. Protecting quality lenses is an exception. Resale value drops with every fresh added scratch.
​Lenscoat wraps have been around for years, and worth their price tag for expensive or rare lenses. I use lenscoat protection on large zoom and ultra heavy tele lenses.       

Photo Gear In Extreme Temps

In 2020, I had joined a photo forum called "NikonGear Net", and had posted a few questions in a thread titled "Nikon Camera In The Cold" by  Øivind Tøien - Fairbanks Alaska. I had asked a series of simple questions, if anyone had used manual focus lenses (like above) within extreme climate conditions. My questions were posted on this forum a few weeks before the journey was about to begin.
​With 21,000+ at the time who had read Øivind Tøien's 'Nikon Camera In The Cold', you'd think someone on this post, especially Øivind Tøien who created the post would've given some positive advice and feedback on cold temp camera lens issues. I received zero advice, not a word, pip squeak? There you go - zero kudos for Øivind @NG. Maybe if I had posted "Free Nikon Bodies & Lens Giveaways" instead, I might of received some results.
Below, in 1986, when this lens was first released by Nikon. When this lens was first released, I had already completed solo overland journeys from Europe to Asia, Asia to Europe, and had completed East Africa, and considerable time in the Middle East. Nothing much has changed in 2021. I'm still out there in the middle of nowhere using photo gear photographing something of interest.

Offshore Overland Travel - Photography

Almost every image that someone takes has certain value to it. Most images throughout this website no matter what camera it was captured with certainly have their own historical footprint just like the above street snap, a local, captured in a dusty wind blown open makeshift chai stop along a bustling dirt road. I returned 18 months later to the same location, but unfortunately this local had passed away a few months earlier. Below, a random street image captured with a D3. I still use a D3 daylight workhorse in 2021. Why use something else if camera bodies are still functioning and working? Lens quality is more important than bodies. Low grade lenses produce low grade images, not the body - Got It?  

 Which Lens - Manual Auto Zoom or Prime?

Above images were captured during various overland journeys during the 1980s. Today, it has become fashionable using classic manual focus lenses for still and videography. Nikon, Canon, Olympus, and Mamiya had made some pretty good optics in the 80's era. Most of these lenses can still be found on eBay, and large second hand camera shops like KEH

These images were captured using a 1977-81 Noct 58mm AI lens mounted to a 12 MP D3 body. One design Nikon has kept through the decades is the mounting ring. The 1977 58mm lens coupled up to a 2007 D3 body without any modifications. Earlier pre 77 lenses require the aperture ring to be machined down copying the same design as 77 up aperture rings. Don't try mounting pre 77 lenses to DSLR bodies until the original aperture rings have been modified. Force mounting older pre-77 lenses to DSLR bodies will cause damage to the body's lens aperture coupling.   

Are you planning a long-term journey through a continent? I can't recommend highly enough to at least invest in a couple of quality lenses. Reselling good lenses has never been a problem. Lenses usually keep their value whereas camera bodies devalue year by year. Mid-range Nikon and Canon optics are great value. It takes time to build up a variety of glass that fits the criteria of what one individually enjoys to use. A tired shutter thrashed body must be eventually serviced - avoid them. unless it's only a shutter issue that needs replacing. Quality second hand prime lenses can be found for reasonable prices online. Shopping around through camera shops, or online usually gives a variety of choices to fit anyone's budget. Below, location is everything, a snap captured using classic photo-gear still getting the shots.

Some street photographers out there can't wait to grab their hands on the latest released up-dated version lenses. Are you one of them?  I used to be, and would probably be one of those crazy guys as well, if photography was the main source of income to survive. Personally, I've found more pleasure using manual focus lenses than autofocus lenses. It's like how some prefer driving automatic cars rather than changing manual geared cars. Below image, AF-S 200-400 f/4 VRII, AF-S 600, 300 & 400 AIS manual focus lenses.

Below, A Noct-Nikkor 1977-81 58mm f/1.2 AI lens night street snap shallow focus @ f/1.2 on a DSLR Nikon D3S body.     

Below, A Noct-Nikkor 77-81 AI lens that I had purchased in Tokyo for under 2/3rds of the normal asking price. Shopping around for lenses through the continents can be rewarding. Small back alley camera repair shops can have shelves full of dusty used lenses that may have been sitting neglected for decades. It's like searching for alluvial gold - which I've also done. The Japanese have a tendency to repack their old camera stuff back into their original boxes, and store it hidden away inside draws and cupboards for years. Full reviews on the 58 Noct by pro-photographers : one : two : three  ​

Quality DSLR Lenses - ED Glass : Solid Construction

There has never been one lens does all. Using a 50mm lens in the wilderness capturing wildlife will be disappointing, and even with more disappointment when images are re-cropped and enlarged. No one normally captures wide angle shots with standard zoom lenses, they will instead use a wide angle lens. It's the same for 3-5 lens smart phone cameras. Attaching a set of binoculars in front of cell cameras to get distant shots will only decrease sharpness and clarity to already blurry distant subjects that smart phone cameras struggle capturing anything past 50 metres.   

Purchasing long range primes or powerful zooms new or second hand can be expensive. Most of these heavy tanks can be bought second hand from eBay Japan or through camera shops like KEH. Saving cash is always a bonus when investing in Photo Gear. This can't be avoided when purchasing quality made powerful long range primes. Classic manual focus long range primes is another option. A robust tripod and tripod head is also required. The option of matrix metering has never been better, or easier for Nikon's classic line of MF lenses. The aid of adding CPU chips on manual focus lenses has been around for decades - this is a good link on CPU Chipping here. For example, Nikon's 400mm f/3.5 ED-IF lens is still an incredible piece of glass. It was one of the best designed manual prime lenses Nikon had made in the 80's (apart from the short hood on it). For an in-depth reference check Nikon Lens Serial Codes & Specifications

Classic Nikon - AF 28mm F/1.4D lens​

Street - Landscape - Portrait - Diverse 

The AF Nikkor 28mm f/1.4D lens is probably unknown to many Nikon users, because only 7333 units were ever produced (1993-2005). I use this lens for random street photography, portraits, and astro captures. The lens has 14/11 optics of glass, (1 aspherical), a 9 blade diaphragm with an all-metal housing. It will function on any Nikon body with screw drive focus. If you can find one of these lenses still in working condition, don't hesitate to put your hands on it. The AF 28mm f/1.4D is one of Nikon's classic up-market lenses.  Rating 8/10

Damp & Dust - Protect Your Photo-Gear

Unprotected photo-gear, especially using lenses in unforgiving environments will quickly become saturated with dust. This is one of the worst enemies for lenses, no matter the brand or manufacturer.

Dust should be blown off photo-gear before disconnecting lenses from camera bodies. A blower brush, or using compressed air to remove dust from lenses is adequate. After a blow down, use a semi-damp cloth to wipe around the body/lens mounting ring. This ensures to eliminate any remaining dust particles that may enter inside camera bodies when dismounting lenses. If ignored, dust, or other residue will eventually find their way to the sensor. Using Sea to Summit bags as a back-up to protect camera equipment within desert environs is recommended. The image below, a typical full force dust storm in its early stages clashing with a cold front. Within under a minute from taking this snap this desert town was covered under a thick blanket of fine dust residue.

Wet Lenses - Dust & Humidity Cocktail

Wiping down wet lenses is paramount in humid regions. The chances of activating fungus spores inside lenses are more prone to happen when lenses are placed back into damp camera bags within humid environments. Camera-gear in air conditioned rooms in humid environments require temperature adjustments before leaving, and returning. Manaus, Dhaka, and Durban are examples of cities with high humidity levels. Cheap plastic designed lenses are more vulnerable for fungus issues, but even the latest expensive "seal proof" lenses have no escape if they're not thoroughly wiped down and dried before being placed back into camera bags. Front lens optics maybe weather sealed, but they're not humid protected!  
​Using silica packs in camera bags will absorb moisture. Replacing gel packs each week is recommended in humid regions. Suede and leather lens pouches should be discarded, and replaced with non-absorbing material like Domke wraps. Camera bags should also have a good airing in direct sunlight to dry out moisture after leaving sticky humid environments. 

Walking around in the rain using DSLR lenses, especially manual focus lenses without some form of protection will result with water droplets entering into lenses. Classic manual lenses have zero rainproof sealing. All it takes is one droplet entering and mixing with dust particles on lens optics to begin fungus growth in humid regions. Below, a rainy day snap with a D3 and 77-81 AI 35mm lens.    

Traveling around offshore using classic lenses is no different compared to using newer lenses except for one disadvantage - dust. Keeping older lenses free from dust particles entering inside on to elements solely depends how much care is taken when out in the field avoiding it to happen. Using protective filters will keep front elements scratch free. When outside strolling around, the aid of a quality blower brush and soft cloth will help older lenses from dust buildup.          

Above, two favourite classic Nikon lenses used for all types of diverse street photography. I de-clicked both lenses years ago and removed the coupling forks which aren't required. The lenses use protective filters and Domke wraps.     

How Fungus Develops In Camera Lenses  

It's sometimes necessary to dry out photo-gear in direct sunlight after being in damp humid locations. This will help keep fungus spores from breeding inside camera bags. Silica gel packets do an excellent job of absorbing moisture, but they won't get rid of fungus spores that may already be on lens optics caused by traces of dust particles. The quickest way to check lenses for dust is by placing a torch at the front of a lens, and looking through the rear of the lens with the aperture blades wide open. This can be frightening, and will surprise many who think their lenses are dust free. If a lens does have large accumulations of dust particles, it's advisable to get it serviced ASAP. Fungus usually begins to form growth on lens optics when dust particles inside lens optics become damp.

Fungus activation begins from tiny dust particles inside lenses. When lenses are exposed to either extreme frosty temperatures or wet sweaty humid environments, the fungus process begins. This causes dust particles inside lenses to become a damp nest. Within a short period of time, the dust begins festering into a full-blown spider webs of fungus spores across the optics. The growth continues without mercy, and will actually eat into the coatings of optics. Eventually, lenses with clouds of fungus on optics will render them into paper weights. Fungus spores are naturally airborne, if one lens becomes infected, other lenses can be easily contaminated within the same camera bag. Lenses stored in leather and suede pouches are also breeding nests for fungus. Drying out photo-gear in non-humid climates, including camera bags may sound like overkill, but this does avoid fungus to easily breed. The amount of fungus infested lenses I've seen used by amateurs and photographers alike is beyond belief. Fungus has an incubation period before it takes hold. Lenses with "seal proof" status are just as vulnerable to get fungus. The term - weather sealing only means for "Short-Periods of Invasive Weather", like cloud bursts of rain, or dusty environments. Weather sealing is not weather proof, or fungus proof.

Nikon Cameras - "Err" Issue

Don't freak out unless camera gear has been accidentally hard dropped causing sudden "ERR" failure.

Battered Scratched Lens Makeover - Respray it

Many classic lenses have perfect optics, but cosmetically many are with faded coatings with marks, stains, and scratches from wear and tear by previous owners. Lens coats are the fashion these days, even I use them. I've had issues with a few very sloppy lens-coats that have been poorly made without the proper tolerances to keep them firm without moving when placed in their appropriate position - (buyer beware). Respraying lenses isn't that complicated, and only requires good automotive matt sprays, wet and dry sandpaper, cleaner, and quality ultra-thin masking tape. The image below is one example, a Canon EF 300 USM lens that received a camo finish respray. It takes a day to complete a lens, so if you're game enough to give it try, and do have a few lenses in need of a cosmetic respray - go for it, and give your old classic lenses a fresh matt spray-job with its own custom finish. ​

Tripods in Transit 

Slow Shutter Speeds - Heavy Lenses - Wildlife - Street - Diverse

I've used tripods on-and-off since the late '80s. Because of the hassles of carting tripods around, and the extra added weight, many exclude traveling with tripods offshore. Today, I wouldn't think twice to carry a tripod overland across any country because of its value as an important tool capturing images. Don't leave home base without one. Tripod page

There are many different brands, makes and model tripods on the market to satisfy anyone wanting one. The model I use is lightweight, and has the strength to hold heavy lenses. The Gitzo GT3531  load capacity holds a maximum weight of up to 18kg (40 lbs). The original Gitzo centre stem and hub was replaced with a Markins hub. A Markins TH-300 hub, from South Korea, retains the same strength as the original. Additional stainless steel foot spikes were added to keep stability on uneven ground. A Wimberley WH-200 Gimbal tripod head finishes off the rig. A heavy duty eyelet attached under the hub manages 10+kg weight of rocks placed in a bag keeping the tripod stable in breezy conditions. An indestructible Manfrotto MBAG80P tripod bag protects my tripod-gear in bush buses, trains, and on the back of trucks crossing countries. It has survived passing through three continents since 2011. Rating 10/10

I've used a few different tripod heads over the years and recommend the Wimberley WH II Arca tripod head for it's quality and reliability. A small service re-oiling the thrust washers before and leaving sub-zero temps or humid climates will keep the head operating smoothly. There are a few Chinese clone copies on the market - buyer beware! the original gets 10/10

Below, location shot using the Gitzo/Markins/Wimberley rig on the Manali-Leh Ladakh highway - elevation 4000 metres.

Below, An AF-S Nikon 600mm f/4 mounted to a Wimberley II head on a Gitzo/Markins tripod. I've used this rig since 2011 without any issues. The gross weight of an AF-S 600 f/4 lens and pro body is 7.2 kg. The GT 3531 with the replacement Markins hub makes it less cumbersome and more lightweight for travel through countries and continents.

Solo Overland Travel Photography - Tough Tripod Bag

Asia : South America : Africa : Middle east

I haven't replaced or updated the MBAG-80P because there's still nothing wrong with it in 2021  

One reliable tripod bag for overland travel is the Manfrotto MBAG-80P. It's super strong padded ballistic nylon material can tolerate almost anything. On one rough road trip, the tripod bag had slipped off the luggage roof on a 4WD @ 120 kph in India. I had visually seen it cartwheeling end-on-end down the road behind the jeep.
The bag was fully packed with a tripod, tripod head, brackets, batteries, chargers, monopod, and other travel equipment. It suffered zero damage to any of the contents, or to the bag itself, not one rip, tear, or scuffing - that's what I call one tough reliable product design.
Although the original MBAG80P is no longer available, new old stock can still be found online. Manfrotto also has another design similar to their classic version - the MBAG80PN. I've been using the same MBAG-80P since 2010 covering untold amounts of overland transit milage through the continents. The image above, from 2020, shows the MBAG-80P within extreme sub-zero temps (-12C to 35C) @ altitude levels up to 4500m. On this journey, my photo-gear clocked up over 4600km overland using trains, cars, vans and 4WDs with zero damage.

The Manfrotto MBAG-80P tripod bag gets 10/10 for reliability in any environment. How do I know that? I've been using the same MBAG-80P since 2010 with zero issues overland through Africa, the Mid East and Asia. Whether traveling in extreme sub zero temps, blistering 50C desert heat, including on board rugged bush buses in transit mode, this particular tripod bag has passed all boundaries of what quality stands for.      

Monopods

If there was ever something worth while carting around through continents, it has to be a monopod. A great tool for heavy photo-gear for quick situations at any location. A fluid 3 base foot for videography is optional, I sometimes use an Arca plate directly mounted to the monopod. Carbon fibre monopods are the pick of the bunch to save weight. The image above shows model #695. The lower extension was removed years ago, it has been part of my photo-gear since 2009, and still functions and works perfectly. Rating 10/10

AF-S Nikon 200-400mm f/4G VRII ED-IF

Street - Landscape - Wildlife - Portrait - Diverse 

The Nikon AFS 200-400 f4 VRII is one of the many top quality lenses from Nikon's range of zoom optics. Using this lens on tripods and monopods guarantees crisp images. Hand holding the lens grabbing snaps is manageable with short bursts. With practice and technique, the weight of the lens becomes less apparent.

The only negative flaw with this lens is the tripod collar. Nikon as of late have wing-bling collar designs. Any model Wimberley arca plate replacement makes the lens more stable eliminating shake. It also places the lens weight ratio closer to the centre when mounted on tripods. The AF-S Nikon 200-400 f/4 VRII has never faulted one time since 2010. This lens has done some serious overland travel milage through entire continents on board rattling bush-buses in the middle of nowhere. Rating 10/10  Professional lens reviews Nikon Lens Evaluations

Above image, Nikon AF-S 200-400mm f/4 VR II lens with an aftermarket Wimberley tripod collar replacement. The lens is a good all-rounder for types of photography. In DX mode, the 200-400 will capture distant wildlife at a 600mm frame crop. Even with the VR II system, using a tripod is recommended for tack sharp image captures. 

Above left, the AF-S Nikkor 200-400mm f/4G VRII @400mm x 1.5 on DX mode. The lens is capable of capturing semi-distant long shots with good results. I don't use this lens for distant subjects. I prefer using the Nikkor 800mm f/5.6 AIS on a tripod which gives a 1200mm value in DX mode.  

The AF-S 200-400mm f4 VRII shows the quality of the lens optics of captured subjects at distance and closeup. It's a heavy lens weighing in at 4.5 Kg with a pro DSLR attached. Capturing images on the go with this lens without using a tripod is done by resting the lens against poles, trees, or anything solid to get the shots minimising shake. These two images are quick examples captured without a tripod.  

2nd Hand Photo-Gear

"Just Because A Lens Is Old Doesn't Mean It's A Paperweight" 

Purchasing photo gear is like a never ending sacrificial investment. Updating or replacing photo gear can be a painful experience that digs deep down into the pockets of anyone who wants to upgrade or replace worn out equipment - believe me, I've been down that road many times.
​Not so long ago Nikon and Canon released a semi-pro or pro-body every 2-4 years. How things have changed - yes? Today one can't keep up with the amount of new models from these two major camera kings. The competition is fiercer than it ever was, this making the confusion even greater from the many choices one has. Cell phones equipped with quad lenses and in built hi-tech camera apps is pure competition, which has probably caused major camera companies to use the same ploy - flood the market with affordable "user friendly" photo-gear. 

Before splashing out hard earned cash at your local camera retail shop, it's well worth the effort to do some research on camera stuff that has a proven track record of reliability. Camera bodies all have use-by dates, but in saying that, some semi-pro and pro-bodies are still functioning perfectly today. If a camera's shutter count (actuations) is low on a five year old body, and its outer cosmetic appearance shows no sign of abuse, then what's the problem?
Used photo gear for sale across the internet is a booming business - it has never been easier. The increase of new cameras has created a huge back flow of used camera equipment. This gives anyone the opportunity to purchase used semi-pro or pro -bodies, and lenses at affordable prices. ​

Investing in good quality camera gear used or new, is like carrying around a cash ready bank account. You can resell camera stuff anytime, and almost anywhere. On the other hand, used camera bodies depreciate year by year, especially if shutters are passed their total actuation count and need replacing. A few classic manual focus Nikon lenses are still worth using from the late 1980s - '90s era. Before investing in any new or used equipment, a knowledge and thorough research on photo gear is imperative. In the long term, good used quality lenses will give positive results at affordable prices.

Above, a cropped long shot capture of herons using a 35 year old designed lens and 2007 12MP body on DX mode shows quality classic photo-gear still works in 2020.

Above, a hand held snap using a 40+ year old Noct Nikkor 58mm f/1.2 AI lens. Below, the D3 & Noct 58 on location.

The below snap for example, if enlarged to poster size onto canvas hung on a lounge wall automatically creates conversation. Thats the magic of still photography image captures. There's big difference between still images and travel videos. Still images can hang on walls keeping their radiance year after year. Travel videos  become boring after the 6th time watching them. My classic Nikkor 800mm 5.6 AIS captured this shot with a 12 MP D3S body in November 2020.   

The classic Nikkor 800mm f/5.6 AIS can capture closeups and distant subjects with ease - not bad for a 35+ year old lens.  

AF-S Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8G ED​

Street - Landscape - Portrait - Astro - Diverse ​

Nikon's ultra-wide full frame AFS 14-24mm f/2.8G lens was released in 2007, and is an awesome lens that's still well worthwhile to have in the camera bag. I can personally say the reliability of this lens is impressive both in optical quality and its construction. I had purchased mine in 2009, it's been hammered through overland travel and transit journeys through South America, Africa, Asia, and the Middle East. Reliability is a part of any purchase no matter what lens it is. Image captures with the 14-24 are excellent in any light, including astro-photgraphy. The only issue - which is the user, and not the lens itself, is keeping the front optic safe from scratches or knocks when zoomed out at 14mm. This places the front element out in the open. The front lens cover is probably the most important lens cap of the entire Nikon range of optics for front glass protection - Don't lose it.  Fotodiox do supply 145 mm diameter filter kits for this lens. ​Rating 10/10

The option of using Pol and ND filters on the AF-S Nikkor 14~24mm f/2,8G lens is very limited. Fotodiox USA are probably the best available source of good quality designed filter and adapter kits. Their ultra-thin 145mm diameter filter kit for the AFS 14-24mm lens is superb -  Rating 10/10 Fotodiox ​​

AF-S Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G  VRI IF-ED

The AF-S Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G I & II are probably the most versatile zoom lenses of the Nikon range. It's a light weight lens that won't let you down in any type of environment. The AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VRI/II series lenses have retained their superior optics like all the other models since the mid 1980's. The only flaw worth mentioning, is the tripod mount that can be replaced with either a Wimberley or RRS arca plate. The lens has a super-fast auto focus, and functions well in low light. These lenses can be found on e-Bay, or from, B&H and KEH. Don't think twice to grab one.  ​Rating 10/10

Nikon 300mm F/2.8 IF-ED AIS

Street - Landscape - Portrait - Diverse 

The Nikon AIS Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 ED-IF manual lens is a good piece of optic precision glass with a flawless track record of reliability. These lenses can be used on the latest autofocus bodies like the D610, D810 and D850. ​The #TC-16a teleconverter will autofocus the lens on bodies with screw-drive, and add 1.6x to the focal length. Adding a CPU chip to this lens will give matrix metering. The Nikon DF body will automatically do the same job. The last run of these lenses were from 1986~2005 with serial numbers #620285 thru #627680 Nikon Lens Evaluations

Above, the first of the 9 blade AIS 300mm f/2.8 lenses that were only affordable for the rich back in the early '80s. I bought this lens for peanuts back in 2010. The lens was in pretty tatty used condition, so it received a matt respray. I really didn't care about the lens. It was mainly used as a backup hack capturing quick snaps rather than using smart phone camera junk - Yes I hate smart phone camera junk, the world would be a better place without them.

Like the majority of images through this website, most are low resolution @ 55%-65% of the original file. It would take several minutes to load pages if images were @ 100%. These two landscape snaps only show half of their quality captured with a 300mm f/2.8 AIS lens mounted to a DSLR body.

Nikon AF 85mm F/1.4D Lens

Portrait -  Street - Diverse ​

The Nikon AF 85mm f/1.4D lens has been around since 1995, regarded as the perfect portrait lens. Although production of stopped in 2010, the 85 f/1,4D  can be purchased 2nd hand through eBay, B&H, KEH, and other large camera shops. The lens works great in low light, and can be used wide open with it's peak performance at f/2.8-f/5.6. It's 9 blade aperture gives excellent bokeh. The lens hood stops flaring and should be used all the time due to the large 77mm front element. I use this lens for random street portraiture.  ​Rating 10/10

A few random street portraits using an AF 85mm f/1.4D lens mounted to a D3 body

If you're looking for a well constructed auto-focus full frame lens, the Nikon AF 85mm f/1.4D is a good option.  

I've been using the AF Nikon 85mm f/1.4D as an everyday lens for years. The lens works great at wide open apertures with its peak performance from f/2.8- f/5.6. It produces great vivid colour saturation and high contrast. Quick AF focusing and sharpness is superb.

Nikon 400mm f/3.5 IF-ED AIS 

Street - Landscape - Wildlife - Portrait - Diverse 

The Nikon 400mm f/3.5 ED-IF manual focus lens is an old classic that was shelved into retirement decades ago. This is still a good budget lens that has outstanding abilities of producing excellent images mounted on the latest bodies. It's still a fast lens within today's maze of 400mm focal lengths. Its barrel diameter is much smaller in diameter than the AF-S 400mm f/2.8. This old classic is an affordable substitute manual focus lens that's built like a tank. The tripod mounting collar is solid and well-designed, and placed on the lens for minimal movement, and vibration. Using the Nikkor 400mm f/3.5 mounted to a Nikon Df body will automatically give matrix metering. Inserting a Dandelion CPU chip on the lens will do the same, and function on most semi and pro Nikon bodies. The production run of the 400mm 3.5 AIS version was from 1982~2005 starting with serial numbers #181501 thru #189575. There were 8075 of these lenses made. KEH or Japanese eBay sellers usually have one or two of these lenses for sale.  A good review of the  Nikon 400mm f/3.5 IF ED

6kg Classic - Nikon AF-S Nikkor 600mm f/4D ​ ​

Wildlife - Street - Sport - Diverse 

A Nikkor AF-S 600mm f/4D tank sprayed in matt camo before lens-coats were invented. The lens had abnormal amounts of knocks, scratches, marks, and abuse from previous owners. This lens had received a full service from Nikon Japan a few years ago. It's the 1st series of the AF-S versions, being the heaviest @6Kg. The latest clone is smaller and lighter only weighing half of this first version. The auto focus is super-fast. The tripod mount collar design is solid as a brick, and positioned on the lens in the right place (well done Nikon)
Photo Gear can't get better with super powerful tele tanks! Don't leave home without one if wildlife's your fetish. These early versions are still in demand. The lens was designed with no shortcuts in its construction. Nikon produced 2411 units of this model (1996-2001) Rating 9/10 Nikon full lens history data and specs here

AF-S Nikon Nikkor 600mm 1:4D ED Lens 

Large Prime ​​Lens Rest Bag 

On The Go - Quick & Fast - Solid Support

The aid of a lens rest bag helps those using heavy lenses. They can be quickly placed at almost any location within seconds. I've been using my own designed rest-bags since 2006. They been sold and marketed with great success. A rest-bag can easily be made and completed in a few hours. The best global fill is dry sawdust, which can be sourced anywhere for free. More on rest-bags down the page. Rating 10/10

Below, a 5.9Kg Nikon AF-S 600mm F4 on a low model rest bag. The use of a tripod and good head assembly is required using heavy lenses. Another alternative without are rest bags. They can be filled with plastic bead, or any fill that allows the bag to remain semi solid when lenses are placed on them. Dry sawdust chip works well! Years ago, I designed, and made my own rest bags from heavy duty waterproof material (images shown). Rest bags can be used on the ground, on tables, on car roofs and bonnets, and even hung over a car window wound down. Plastic bead, sawdust, rice or bean-bag fill are filling options - Avoid using sand! Rating 10/10

No tripod? No problem, custom made rest-bags will keep any large prime lens stable (600mm~1200mm). They can be filled with plastic bead granules, plain rice or sawdust chips. They are designed as fully adjustable rest-bags with twin velcro straps to keep the bags stable at any angle or level. I've tried and tested my designs with heavy AF-S Nikon 600 and 800 AIS lenses with great results. Travelling off-shore with a tripod can be a hassle at times, this is a quick solution for those using large heavy primes or lenses weighing over 3.5Kg. Leaving any location or region is simple - just empty the rest-bag, and refill it when necessary. Sawdust chips can be easily sourced anywhere through the continents. On a recent journey in the Himalaya, I managed to find a pile of  dry sawdust in sub-zero mid-winter temps @ 3800 meters.  

On The Go - Prime Lens Rest Bag

Using a rest-bag gives the opportunities of capturing wildlife at the lowest angle possible. Camera rest bags are also more stable and solid than monopods or tripods in certain situations using heavy lenses, like in dugouts in wetland areas.
​Making your own custom rest-bag is relatively simple. An overlocker, heavy duty waterproof codura material, one ykk zip, and velcro strapping is all that's required. 

Nikon 35mm & 105mm - Manual Focus Primes​

Street - Portrait - Diverse 

The above three Nikon manual focus lenses are well known for their precision focus and optical qualities. All 2nd hand lenses should be free of dust, scratches and fungus before purchasing them. Travelling long-term with manual focus lenses within dusty or hot humid environments without protection can quickly destroy manual focus lenses. Fresh silica gel packs will absorb moisture inside camera baggage, a necessity required for any photo-gear. Dust should be removed from lenses before dismounting, including a blow-off wipe down.

It's 2020, and still, some of Nikon's old classic MF prime lenses from the 80's era are being widely used today. I'm one of them, along with thousands of others who know the feel and quality of solid metal optics that capture great images. The 35mm f/1.4  AI /AI-s, and 105mm f/1.8 AI-s lenses have reliable track records. They are good daily workhorse manual focus primes producing tack sharp images giving great bokeh. Like all classic Nikon lenses, they're full metal construction made to last, and will probably be around for another few decades yet. Adding third party CPU chips to MF lenses allows matrix metering. The Nikon DF body can meter MF lenses from 1981 up (also some earlier models).
Getting out on the street using MF lenses will feel like slow motion to some, but that's part of the enjoyment. These lenses can be purchased through any reputable eBay seller.

Nikon manual focus lenses are rock solid constructed, reliable with great optics. MF lenses can easily fit on many different DSLR & 4/3 cameras. Adaptor rings are required for non-Nikon bodies. CPU chips can also be fitted into most AI/AIS lenses. De-clicking these lenses is straight and simple.

Nikon Nikkor 105mm f/1.8 AIS

Portrait - Street - Diverse 

A favourite classic I personally use from time to time is the 105mm f/1.8 AIS lens. The 105 lens has reached its 40 year manufacturing date and still remains a hit. The 105mm f/1.8 is a sought after manual focus lens street photographers and videographers have no hesitation to purchase. Rating 10/10

Two random street subjects taken with the Nikon 105mm f/1.8 AIS lens wide open attached to a D3 body.

The Nikkor 105 1.8 AIS was first introduced in 1981 thru to 2005 with 44407 units sold during its production.  

Protection - Wrap Stuff Up

I avoid carrying lenses in their original OEM pouches. Domke wraps are super lightweight replacements. Original OEM lens pouches made from leather in time become fungus mould traps within damp environments in short time periods. Any invisible traces of dust inside lenses will create fungi spores caused when dampness enters inside lenses. Fungi growth rapidly creates spider webs of fungus and eventually eats into the surface of optics without mercy if lenses are neglected.

Domke wraps are synthetic, and come in a variety of different sizes. They are also large enough to completely wrap up pro bodies. Domke wraps eliminate rub, scratch and rattle when a bunch of lenses are packed together tightly side by side. I've used Domke wraps for lenses and for other items through the African, Middle Eastern, and Asian continents, and swear by them. Backpacks, and gear are usually jammed wherever they can fit, sometimes in under compartments of bush-buses, or on the roof, or on top of jeeps, in soaking dugouts, packed-out trains, crowded boats, and overloaded trucks. None of my photo-gear has sustained any damage, or scratches, or abrasive rubbing abuse. ​ ​Rating 10/10

Many who've  bumped in to me during overland travel journeys have asked the same question time and time again. "Your lenses look brand new without marks or scratches." The secret - Domke Wraps, one of the best designs on the market still today to keep camera gear safe from excessive wear and tear.

Overland Travel & Transit Photo Gear Backpacks

Camera backpacks are many, some designs won't last long transiting continuously through the sub-continents using local transportation. It's not just about the pack, but what's carried inside packs if in fact the pack has enough protection to protect equipment from being damaged. There are times when it's safer to purchase an extra seat to safeguard luggage from accidental damage. I have done this through certain regions crossing Africa, central Asia and Middle East. Locals will walk on top of everything and anything on baggage in the way. A nightmare scenario for camera gear. External pockets, loops and fly zippers are vulnerable to being ripped or broken when placed or dragged out from baggage compartments, or from bus roof tops, or from under seats by protruding jagged metal. Oil spills and other liquid content are other normal occurrences during transit soaking backpack harnesses leaving permanent grime exactly where you don't want it to be. A solution is to place packs inside potato sacks or inside another pack. The below image shows a GuraGear Bataflae 32 litre placed inside a Lowepro trekker 600AW. The Bataflae design is far too thin for valuable photo-gear on long overland journeys through continents.
If you value your photo-gear, this is an alternative solution to carry equipment safely. This ensures a higher margin of protection on board vibrating bush-buses. The Guragear pack can then be used at locations with lenses attached to bodies without having to interchange lenses in wind swept or dusty environments - thus keeping the sensors and optics dust free.

The Gura Gear 32L camera pack is way too thin with minimal protection thickness during overland travel and transit journeys when using basic public transport off the bitumen tarmac. The Gura Gear design overall is a good secondary camera pack for out and about day trips, but isn't recommended as a main photo-gear pack for rugged overland journeys. All outer and inner zipper pull cords on this model failed miserably. Although this is a relatively small issue, quality and reliability counts in the middle of nowhere.   ​

Below, a Lowepro 600 AW that has survived since 2013 with no zipper failures, rips or damage. Quick spec load capacity - 3 DSLRs with L Brackets and lenses attached (up to 600mm f/4), 5-9 additional lenses, 2 flash units, tripod or monopod attached, plenty of space for other accessories including a 15" inch laptop.

Overland Travel Photo Gear

Have you got long prime lenses, and having trouble looking for a camera pack to accommodate it? No problem, the Kani L 300L lens pack will fit an 800mm lens with a pro-body attached. The Kani L 300L design gets kudo points, because there's no other camera pack on the market like it. It has a heavy duty outer bottom moulding to protect from mud, water, and rough surfaces when placed on the ground. It holds a lens firmly in place during transit, and has enough room to place other small lenses and accessories in and around the main large lens.
The harness system is ok for a few kilometres only, it's not a full swivel harness system.
​I've personally tried and tested this pack over-landing through Nepal, India and Bangladesh using local transport with no issues. Although the Kani L 300L pack is Chinese made, it gets a 9/10 rating, because it's been put to the test, and has carried my photo-gear safely in transit mode without falling to bits since 2016. The Kani pack  (if still available) can be purchased directly from Ali Express  or Amazon.  More images of the Kani pack in the 800mm section ​

Camera Gadget Extras  

If there weren't enough gadgets to lug around with already, there's always something extra that comes in handy. The DR-5 angle view finder and ML-3 cordless remote are two items that are worth their space in the bag. Arca plates are the best solution for any badly designed tripod lens collar foot. Nikon's latest collar foots are poorly designed. Most of Nikon's older large prime lenses were assembled like tanks - including their tripod collar mounting design which supported the weight of the lens as near to the centre of balance when mounted to any tripod.
Any lens with flimsy designed support collars mounted to a tripod in the slightest breeze will give bad results. Placing some added weight on top of the lens may help to keep it stable. ​

One rarely uses these accessories everyday, but imagine not having them when needed half way through any journey in the middle of nowhere in the heart of Africa, or somewhere  between South America and the Himalaya. ​

Time Lapse Exposures 

An oldie, but a goodie, the Nikon MC-36A has been around for a while and still listed as available. If you do night Time-Lapse, astro-photography etc, this original OEM 10 pin remote shutter will get the job done. There's plenty of other wing-bling copies on the market for under half the price, but if they fail, it's guaranteed to happen on location in the middle of nowhere while being used. I purchased the one above 2nd hand in mint condition from B&H photo USA.  ​Rating 10/10

Overland Travel - Lightweight Reflector 

A light reflector comes in handy when shooting street portraits in low light situations. There are times when these are required on locals to shade their head from strong light, or to reflect light on the subject. They are an essential tool to diffuse, dim, and create softer warmer tones on faces. Rating 10/10

Backing Up In Transit Mode​

Today, manually backing up images is relatively fast with all the various high-speed hard drives available. Cloud storage is ok when there's an internet connection. The possibilities of even finding a slow 56kb line in the middle of nowhere is pushing it in certain regions around the planet. Traveling with only one external hard drive is also a no brainer - just like having one camera body if it suddenly fails to work. The launch of high meg pixel cameras like the D850 will fill a 1TB external hard drive quicker than most think. Imagine connecting to cloud, and trying to upload a few hundred 45 mega pixel raw files using a slow 56k landline connection in the middle of the Congo, the Amazon, or Himalaya.
Most who travel doing the hard yards have their own ideas of what's best for backup. External hard drives are like laptops - sensitive prone due to moving internal parts which can fail from one day to the next. Additional protective outer cases for external hard drives are a must. It only takes one drop for any external hard drive to fail. Another alternative are solid state hard drives, but the cost of SSDs are still above the roof.
Dropping any external hard drive on the ground without any protective outer case will kill it immediately. Most external hard drives also dislike extreme temperature changes, like sticky humid or sub-zero conditions, or within scorching heat for any extended length of time. On quick trip journeys, this isn't an issue to fuss over. On long-haul overland travel journeys, using local transport crossing, and zig-zagging through an entire continent, one must take certain precautions to safeguard the storage data itself. 
Imagine the amount of time involved collecting thousands of images through a continent, and a backup external hard drive fails in the middle of nowhere. I've always been on the safe side, and carry a variety of external backup accessories to save data on two, or three different drives just in case the inevitable happens. Backing up files twice becomes automatic. Loading images up to cloud is definitely inaccessible within many isolated regions in Asia, South America and Africa. Even if there was a possibility to do so, most internet connections only run at 56kb speed. I'm still using a 1st generation UDMA Colorspace with a few one and two TB Rugged Lacies. It's important to have a ton of extra backup space with an assortment of different external drives. A supply of Flash cards and flash drives are the smallest options, but they can be easily misplaced or lost. A good quality water tight container box for loose key items will keep everything in check. Extra batteries, spare chargers, cables, universal plugs, cards, adaptors, external hard drives, cleaning equipment, power adaptors, etc. are all vital accessories that will be eventually used over a 1-3 year offshore overland travel journey.   ​

Plenty of storage backup is required for long term travel. Over supply is better than under supply. This 1st edition UDMA Colorspace has clocked up tons of overland transit milage through all the continents. It's still operating perfectly since 2009. Replacement 1 TB hard drive and battery are simple to replace (3 minutes). Reliability comes first. This is another rare moment giving a Chinese made product design 10/10 

Overland Travel - Battery Juice

A surplus battery supply is highly recommended. It's actually better to purchase brand new batteries for extended travel before departure rather than carting a pile of used batteries that may be reaching their use by date. Videography and Time-Lapse will drain and suck batteries dry in no time. Stock up, if ravelling through Africa and South America. It's impossible to find replacement batteries in the middle of nowhere. Personally, I haven't had any issues with airlines (outside the USA) in regards to the amount of extra batteries packed in checked baggage. If possible, keep spare batteries in their original boxes with the plastic terminal covers attached (shown above), this keeps airline terminal security happy. ​​Rating 10/10

Dandelion CPU Chip for Nikon MF Lenses

Most Nikon F mounted bayonet manual focus lenses from 1959 up can be easily updated with a Dandelion CPU chip which then gives full exposure metering just like later model AF lenses do. The Dandelion chip designed by Victor Luchnikov can be easily purchased off eBay. ​Rating 10/10

Nikon D3/S - Still Tough Reliable Workhorses in 2021

Will your camera survive a solo overland journey through the continents of Asia, Africa and South America? How tough and robust is the D3 body design? The below French You-Tube video by Pixelistes proves more than enough evidence how tough the D3 design really is. I don't think there's any mirrorless designed camera as yet out there that would even pass the 1st test, let alone all 5 tests. Camera reliability is first priority before anything else over landing through the continents, especially for long periods at a time. The images are screenshots from the original Pixelistes You-Tube video. ​

Nikon D3 2021-22 

My own D3 body shows no signs of failure fatigue since it was bought second hand in 2013 with only 10k actuations. It was originally first purchased new in 2011. This daylight 12 MP workhorse camera just keeps on doing what it does best - capturing images. Nikon history of robust camera bodies dates back to the SLR F2 Titanium. The rarest model of all is the F2-92 Titan. I've also owned and used 6x6 and 6x7cm Mamiya medium format cameras, but gave them up during the end of the '90s. If 120 roll film wasn't so expensive, I'd use the Fuji G617 panorama camera for city and landscape captures.

A snap in Japan 30+ years ago tinkering around with photo gear. The F2AS black body was one of my favourite SLRs.      

Overland Travel Photo Gear

Asia-Africa-South America-Middle East

Traveling across continents with a point and shoot along with DSLR photo-gear is recommended. Point and shoots capture quick snaps on the go non-stop. They come in handy during transit journeys on board bush-buses, trains and during transit-stops. Most point and shoot brands today have been tweaked with innovated user friendly settings, raw, and 4K video. Point and shoots are more superior than smart phone cameras hands down! At the moment, I'm still satisfied using a Sony RX100V for daytime on the go snaps. Keeping point & shoots dust and damp free will have them working for years before the need of replacements. Some point & shoot cameras are more superior than others for overall reliability - the Sony RX100 is one of them. Rating 8/10

Overland Travel DSLR Gear

Are you a solo travel street photographer? And into random portraiture, wildlife, astro, on the go, and anything else in-between? Thinking of doing a long-term solo overland journey through Africa or South America? Or maybe an overland transit journey from Europe to Japan? The bonus of having a selection of lenses to capture rewarding images is  recommended. One lens will struggle doing the job for everything. Some will debate this, but through the years of traveling solo up and down, and across countries and continents, a series of lenses are better than with just one lens. I'm talking four decades here of solo overland travel and transit. I'm probably one of those rare "old-school" dudes left on the planet - still travelling off-shore since the early eighties. I use Nikon-gear, but the options and choices of using other brands out there today are equally just as good.
​I would certainly recommend traveling with at least 3 lenses. Depending on which photographic interests and favourite passions, a couple of primes and zoom lens will cover almost everything. My own photo-gear above isn't the latest high-tech equipment, but these lenses do the job. Building up a collection of lenses to travel with takes time. It depends on availability, preference and personal cash-flow. None of my bodies or lenses are lazy - everything gets used. As mentioned several times through this website, quality and reliability of equipment is imperative for any long-term overland travel journey. Avoid investing in items or products which haven't been tried and tested outside their comfy zone.

De-Clicked Lenses - Do It Yourself

Below, a de-clicked Nikon 35mm f/1.4 AI lens  - time duration to de-click start to finish - approximately one hour   

Double levers attached to a de-clicked lens controlling smooth aperture and focus changes. 

The difference between the early Nikkor 35mm 1977-81 f/1.4 AI (shown below) to the later 81 up AIS version (shown above) differ with the earlier AI being best of the two models for videography. Both lens models use the same elements. Although the AI is only a seven blade lens compared to the nine blade AIS, it has a 180° focus throw advantage over the AIS with only 105°. Both lenses have CRC (Close Range Correction).

2 Way Contact & Mini Binis

A small pair of waterproof binoculars comes in handy crossing continents. When you don't carry a set - it's always when you need a set. The Minox brand I can certainly vouch for, They're well designed, small, robust and waterproof, with quality precision German made optic glass. This set has enough magnification to focus on wildlife, birds and landscape. Travelling with large heavy binoculars isn't recommended, unless they're being used daily. Rating 10/10 
Walkie talkies are a luxury usually necessary only for those who travel in pairs. If traveling solo, they can also be used at isolated locations with others during trekking, climbing, or any region with minimal sat/nav/cell communications.
Sets with a 40+km range are recommended for locations that are built up, like mountainous areas. Mobile cell phones struggle in isolated regions. Walkie's are good for emergency backup if needed. Don't flash these around in sensitive areas that may have military presence in countries with internal conflict. You may lose them, including a rigorous interrogation wasting time. 
As of yet, Walkie's are not classified as sensitive equipment in most countries - exceptions are India, Pakistan, Iran, Israel, Egypt, DRC, Sudan, Eritrea, Venezuela, and Cuba. I've used the set above, a pair of Midland since 2007 with great results in mountainous regions. Good brands can be purchased at hunting shops. Rating 8/10

Still & Videography - Basic Filters

Tiffen : Heliopan : Hoya : B+W : Nikon : Kenko : Cokin : Marumi : Canon

A circular polariser filter for glare and reflection, and various ND filters are basic filters for video. The use of Clear, Haze, & Skylight filters will keep dust at bay protecting front lens optics from scratches. Filter brands are important, although the below B&W Slim C-POL filter by Schneider Germany which was purchased new, and only used several times had coating separation issues for no apparent reason. Appalling for the cost of this filter Rating 0/10  I can use the cap as a mini frisbee flying across the room and flush the filter down the toilet!     

​Cleaning photo gear each evening after a day's shoot is an automatic procedure on the road. The amount of invisible dust mounting up on lenses used outdoors is a normal occurrence. Dust build-up happens everywhere. lenses can become completely coated with dust within short periods. Personally, I don't change optics outdoors, unless it's a priority to do so. Mounting lenses on bodies the night before heading outside is recommended. Checking out locations the day before usually verifies which lens or lenses are required. Refillable air canisters are superior than a hand blower, but are bulky to cart around. Small mini facial powder brushes, optical eyeglass cleaner, and a few soft cloths can be found almost anywhere. A good reliable blower brush should be purchased well in advance before any long-term solo overland journey begins. Good brands are impossible to find in the middle of nowhere when needed.

Above, a Nikon C-PL1L polariser filter which was purchased in 2011. It's been used multiple times in various lenses and hasn't blemished, or had coating separation issues like the above B&W Pol filter. The Nikon C-PL1L filter has been tried and tested in +51C/124F and down to minus -30C/-22F with zero issues - Rating 10/10  

The amount of people out there who ignore basic protective measures for camera lenses is unbelievable. They are the ones that eventually end-up destroying their lenses because of their own stupidity. Through the decades, I've met countless foreigners offshore who have wondered why their prime and zoom lenses suddenly contain grinding noises or semi-seized lenses when focusing. The main root causes are from lenses carted around without protective caps and changing lenses at the wrong locations, like on beaches and during wind blown environments. The best solution saving lenses from death, is to change them indoors first before heading outside.        

It's your own responsibility to look after camera gear. Lenses are prone to all types of outdoor crap creeping on and inside lenses without knowing about it until it's too late. I've seen it happen to other camera users stuff more often than most imagine. If you value your camera gear, at least clean it down after a full day capturing street images. Below, a classic snap from '91 in South America blowing and wiping down an AF 80-200mm f/2.8 ED lens.       

Camera Lens Fungus 

Damp Humid Environments Are The Worst Enemy For Photo-Gear

Are you hanging out in tropical environments travelling with camera gear? If so, silica-gel will be required to suck the moisture out of camera bags. lenses are vulnerable within humid and damp cold climates. Lenses will eventually get fungus spores if placed in damp moisture filled camera bags over a short time period. ​​

It only takes a spec of damp dust trapped inside on lens optics for fungus spores to begin contaminating across optical glass like a dark black spider web within a few weeks. Silica Gel crystals keep fungus controlled with photo gear in most environments. I can personally say these dry silica packs do work. This particular brand will last around 5-7 days before requiring a recharge in a microwave. Depending on the amount of moisture and humidity, the dry packs may need to be recharged earlier. The crystals will slowly turn from orange to brown. The cartridges can be placed directly into any microwave for 30-60 seconds, and repeated a few times. Removing the silica from the cartridges into a glass bowel, micro wave for 2 minutes for 10+ packets. Repeat the processes again until the gel turns to orange.
​It's important to allow the silica to cool down before re-heating again. The process may need to be repeated 3-4 times. Heating the gel in ovens is another option. Silica gel is an alternative to dry box storage. Photo-gear can also be placed in quality "sealed" travel suitcases with silica cartridges instead of a dry-box. Another option on short duration 2-3 week journeys are small sealed silica packets, which are normally used for food products. Throwing a pile of these inside camera bags will absorb, and keep moisture at bay up to 2 weeks. Bagging-up camera-gear in the cold, before entering warm environments is also recommended. This can be done in the opposite way as well i.e. air con rooms to outdoor humid temperatures. 

Humidity & Damp Environments Kill Lenses

This is what happens to lenses that become contaminated with fungi. A complete disassembly pull down to clean the optics from fungi spores before the contamination turns into full blown fungus growth, which will literally eat into optical glass rendering them useless if not serviced. When photo-gear has been within any damp humid environment, or have been sitting in damp camera bags, the possibility of fungi spores forming on lens optics is highly probable. Using a mini torch light to look through lenses will freak you out.
Lenses containing dust specs are vulnerable to activate fungus. Any lens with dust just needs the right humid conditions dampening dust particles on optics to begin the spider web process of fungus. Leather bags and leather pouches are fungi breeders when damp. If lenses show signs of fungi spores on optics, they should be separated from others lenses, and the camera bag completely dried out or replaced. It doesn't take long for air borne fungi spores to enter into other lenses. If lenses show early symptoms of fungi specs (a spider web is late stage), get it serviced ASAP. 
​The above AF-S Nikkor 600mm f/4 showed signs of slight fungus on one of the middle optics. It was pulled down, cleaned, and fully serviced by Nikon Tokyo.

AquaTech Soft Hood - OEM Replacement 

Quick Assembly : Foldable : Lightweight : Waterproof : Quality Made : Reliable

Are you running out of room in the camera bag? Many large prime lenses come with bulky single or 2 piece hoods. The diameter of large hoods do hog room space. The best solution solving this problem is to replace the solid original hood with a foldable hood that can flatten out and packed as a flat item.  Below, AF-S Nikon 600mm f/4 IF-ED lens with AquaTech soft hood attached. Rating 10/10

The heavy duty AquaTech soft hood replacement is the perfect solution for solid bulky hoods, or for any large prime lenses that have a damaged or lost hood that are no longer available from the OEM distributor. The Aquatech soft hood is designed with strong wide velcro made for easy mounting. The adjustable snap-on fasteners also secure the  hood on the lens keeping it firm and attached in any extreme weather environment.
Aquatech also has front lens protector caps when out at locations. The slip-on cap design is made from thick soft rubber. It is easily inserted into the front of lenses, and can be attached or removed super-fast.
​Aquatech replacement caps will protect front lens glass from sea spray, scratches, dust, and rain. Like all lens caps before remounting, they should be clean of dust to avoid scratching front optics during transit. AquaTech soft cups are available in different sizes. ​

I've been traveling offshore with heavy camera gear for decades. A selection of 3 bodies and 5 lenses is normal. Large lenses like the AFS 600 1:4 have bulky 2 piece extension lens hoods. They rob valuable baggage volume that can be used for other photo gear stuff. Using them at home base is fine, but not for offshore overland travel journeys. The AquaTech foldable replacement hood solves baggage space issues. I had used the AFS 600 in South America with OEM hoods before purchasing an AquaTech kit. What a difference! Those our there who  have worn out scratched OEM hoods can easily do what I did - respray the hoods with automotive wrinkle finish paint.
From start to finish the job takes around 2 hours, and approximately a week for the wrinkle coat to fully harden. There's more on how to wrinkle respray on my Harley custom biker page.   

Nikon Nikkor 800 f/5.6 ED AI-S 

No matter what new innovated lens technology evolves, large long prime lenses will still be around and used for a while yet. Personally, I can't see any wildlife photographers giving up their long prime lenses for one obvious reason - there's nothing on the market that can match, or replace the powerful sharp glass that long prime lenses have. Nikon and Canon are still producing, and updating long prime lenses for wildlife and landscape photographers. Powerful long primes have been out of reach for budget photographers, because of their expense, but into today's market of global second hand photo gear, the opportunity to purchase a super-tele prime has become more affordable. As long as camera manufacturers keep producing new updated versions, the cycle of 2nd hand long prime lenses  will continue to get cheaper. KEH and Japanese eBay sellers are two good options to purchase almost any lenses imaginable. Is the Nikon 800mm f/5.6 IF-ED lens worth its weight to carry around? Rating 10/10

Length 670mm :  Diameter 163mm :  Weight 5.5kg : Optics 8/6 (3ED) : f5.6 - f32 : 52mm drop in filter :  Units manufactured 3004 - 1986 - 2005 : Serial sequence 200001- 203004

Nikon Nikkor AF-S 600mm f/4 1996 Up 

Nikon and Canon still keep producing long range prime lenses non-stop. The global market for long powerful primes has increased to maximum levels over the last decade. Wildlife, landscape and sports photographers who are not sponsored wouldn't hesitate purchasing used Nikon or Canon 600mm or 800mm lenses for the right price. What is the right price you ask? Around half the cost of a new one. For example, I saw a series III Nikon 600mm f/4 lens selling for $4ooo, it was snapped-up as quickly as it was posted for sale online. I recently bumped into a couple of amateur bird photographers, both with the latest Nikon 600mm E FL VR 600 lenses attached to D5's (happy guys).
In general, prime lenses are superior than zoom lenses of the same focal length. They are sharper, and don't require extra elements moving to focus that zoom lenses require, thus eliminating diffraction. Two things most wildlife or sports photographer do before purchasing long primes, is the reach capabilities and maximum aperture of lenses. Super-tele lenses are heavy to lug around, and at times awkward to capture the perfect shot, but the rewards out weigh weight issues - just ask anyone using long powerful prime lenses. Rating 10/10

Wildlife photography has many positives. It gets you out in the wilderness escaping from human hustle & bustle. It gives motivation to capture images of wildlife within their own natural habitat. Finding different locations on foot and adapting to different climates are bonus fitness tests. Relaxing in the wild enjoying the physical surroundings is hard to beat.    

Capturing close-up snaps like above are simple using long powerful prime lenses like the 600mm & 800mm. These images were captured with a 1986-05 manual focus Nikkor 800mm f/5.6 ED-IF AIS lens & D3S 12MP body.

 Need More Reach? - Teleconverters 

Nikon AF-I TC-14E works well with the 800mm f/5.6 ED-IF AI-S lens

Teleconverters come in handy from time to time, although most converters do rob one or two F-stops of light entering through the lens. Carrying one of these little magnifiers in the camera bag will become valuable for any wildlife, or surfing snapper, including moon shots  and anything else that's distant. There's always a large supply of second converters for sale on eBay. ​

Nikon DX Fisheye - Get The Shot

The only DX lens I use is the AF Fisheye 10.5mm f/2.8G ED. It's small, well constructed with 10 elements in 7 groups, including close range correction (CRC) down below six inches. I normally capture images with this lens within sensitive regions without the need of raising the camera to eye level. The simple task of pointing and shooting in the direction from the hip side while casually looking elsewhere gets the shots using this lens. Below, a re-cropped DSLR full frame image taken with the DX 10.5 lens.

Replacement & Upgrades

There are always reasons for upgrading photo-gear. It can be for faster frame rates, larger format, or switching brands. The cost of upgrading to newer model cameras will also depend how much time and usage it gets. It's certainly not worth any price tag replacing photo-gear if it's not being used. If camera bodies are working fine, capturing great snaps without any electronic issues - why replace them? Repairing camera bodies or lenses versus replacement gear depends on cost repairs. Normally, when semi-pro cameras require replacement shutters (at OEM maximum shutter actuations), it's time to let them go before something else fails. Some 2007 to 2011 DSLR pro-bodies by Nikon are known to have had replacement shutters totalling another 300K, or more actuations without failing.   

Below, a classic 1340cc HD Shovelhead captured decades ago with an SLR Nikon F2 and 50mm lens

When the shift came to shove moving away from SLR roll film cameras, Nikon lenses used during the '80s era were the most difficult letting go. Nikon's fine selection of used lenses were affordable and plentiful. Almost every camera shop one walked into had over flowing displays of just about every Nikon lens imaginable. Big cities in Japan had multiple floor levels of good used photo gear, including used camera markets through South America and western Europe. Back then, I had a good selection of Nikon lenses to sink a ship with, and at least three camera bodies in the bag. Other street photographers during this period were like today, wanting the latest trendy equipment. While most were using Nikon F3HP/F4's and updated lenses, I was still using older F2/AS's and AI /AIS lenses. Fast forwarding to 2022, I'm still enjoying using four AI/AIS lenses with 12MP D3/S bodies. So really, nothing much has changed, some can't tolerate using old manual lenses, which is understandable in today's auto-focus world. Everything must be fast, quick and totally filled with user friendly options to capture shots. Below, street image Valparaiso, Chile 1989, captured with an F2 and Nikkor 200mm f/4 AI lens.       

Medium format 6x7cm roll film cameras were too cumbersome to drag through continents. I tried it once, but gave up that idea sticking to 35mm SLR's. I've owned a few medium format cameras, and did use them through the '90s. The Mamiya RB67 SD Pro was a favourite. I think there was an enjoyment of opening fresh rolls of 120 film winding and clicking through ten snaps and reloading another. The below images (low res copies only) were taken with three different Mamiya medium format bodies through the '90s. lower left Scandinavia RB67, lower right southern Colombia C330 TLR, Bottom nostalgic furniture Mamiya 7.         

DSLR Camera Sensor Cleaning - On The Go

There's nothing to freak out about here, all DSLR cameras are prone to collect junk on their sensors over a period of time no matter how well one tries to avoid this issue. Dust enters on to camera sensors from various personal traits. Interchanging lenses on the go in dusty environments is the main cause. Some actually travel with their camera bodies with no body cap attached in baggage. Using mini blowers outside in dusty environments actually blows more dust than what most imagine. Rooms with ceiling fans spinning at full power are automatic dust spreaders, and will blow dust on to camera sensors. The image above shows accumulated dust and grime splattered across it. To self clean sensors, use wet cleaning sensor kits from reputable retailers - Avoid all wet sensor kits made in China! Got it? I carry backup wet sensors kits made in the USA. 
Wet sensor cleaning video one : video two : video three : video four    

Used Photo Gear - Is It Reliable?

"Reliability is proven by anything designed that can withstand its use by date without servicing, and continues to perform without issues well past any time frame to replace functioning parts recommended by the original manufacturer"
The Nikon D3 is a non stop daylight work horse. 
The Nikon D3 without doubt has had a proven track record globally since its release in 2007, including the Nikon D3s/D3x. The above D3 was for sale in 2016. It had clocked up 850,000 actuations until the shutter failed (that's 550,000 shutter actuations past its recommended limit of a shutter replacement). The D3 is an old reliable daylight workhorse and still has the legs even in 2021 to handle what ever punishment one can throw at it. The price for used D3 bodies has fallen through the roof. A good D3 can bought for under $500.
​Shutter replacements for D3/s/x is around $300. There are plenty of D3 bodies on the market that still have low actuation counts (10k - 50k). This particular D3 with 850k shutter counts will probably do another 850k with a replacement shutter. A D3S sensor upgrade into D3 bodies will also give better low light capabilities that D3 sensors struggles to do after dark. (something to think about).
​Nikon D3 manual, Nikon D3S manual, Nikon D3X manual, Nikon D4 manual, Nikon D4S manual, Nikon D5 manual

In 2021, I'm still content using the Nikon D3 body. It functions and works perfectly capturing daylight images. Why should I waste time replacing this camera body when it still operates grabbing long distant and close-up images. It's been a reliable DSLR body since purchased second hand. It will probably still be functioning in 2025... Let's see.

Overland Travel Photo Gear Through The Decades

I've used all kinds of photo-gear since the late 70's. The roll-film days had the same amount of hype amongst brands as they do today. The only difference, is the amount of upgraded models being released each year. Through the decades, I have stuck with Nikon because of reliability and lens quality.

In the '80s, it wasn't unusual for certain countries to hand scribble photo gear in passports. Above is a classic example of just that from Chilean customs in '89. Peru, Colombia, Brazil, India, Iran and the Sudan were other countries paranoid of foreigners entering their land borders with a bag full of  photographic stuff. All the above Nikon gear was sold and traded off decades ago. Anyone out there who maybe using the same model Nikon bodies and lenses could possibly be using what I actually travelled with through Central and South America, USA, Europe, the Mid-East and Asia.    

Since '82, the F2, F2AS, FE2, FA, D700, D800, and D3 and D3S bodies have been  tried and tested over-landing through continents surviving bump and grind, dust, dirt, war zone regions, humid conditions, high altitude, and extreme heat and sub-zero temperatures. Canon, Minolta, and Pentax were probably just as reliable, but I never needed to switch brands. I also had a soft spot for medium formats, and had several Mamiya models (6x6-C330 TLR, 6x7 RB, Mamiya 7). These medium formats weren't carted around across continents, because of their bulkiness, although the C330 was bought in Quito with 3 lens sets and used in South America.

Have I had any regrets selling-off or trading camera stuff through the decades? Not really, I'm never been a collector, rather a user of cameras. In saying that, if roll film was still readily cheap, I would probably have no hesitation of using an RZ-67 Pro II Mamiya with a couple of lenses, or a Mamiya 7 II rangefinder.   

The original negative vanished decades ago, but this image snap taken with the Mamiya RB67 shows any camera can be used out of its comfy zone. At the time, I only had the RB67 at this particular location to capture images. Locals thought I was crazy, but at least I did get some good drag action racing shots.     

I used a couple of Nikon F2AS bodies through Central & South America, Middle East, Asia, Europe and Australia for quite a few years. The bodies were reliable in any environment whether hot or cold. Replacement F3 screens were used in both bodies. Nikon in Ginza-Tokyo were even amazed when inspecting both bodies from the amount of overland transit milage they clocked up through continents. Below location snap shows the F2AS's being used in sub-zero temps. The 1980 F2AS chrome body had an f/4 200 AI lens in this snap.   

I'm still using Nikon camera gear, a favourite combo, is the D3S and manual focus Nikkor 800mm 5.6 AIS lens. The snap below shows both body and lens being used @4300 M (14107 ft) altitude in mid-winter capturing snow leopards at Chicham gorge. The lens and body have been successfully tried and tested on several occasions above +50C desert heat and subzero temps down to -25C (-13 f) with zero issues - i.e. no lens grease melting or seizing focus, no moisture or fungus issues, no failures whatsoever using the D3 & D3S in extreme environments, new OEM batteries held their juice in sub-zero temps without rapid draining (-10C to -25C using a manual focus lens)
I was also fortunate on this particular overland journey self-spotting, tracking and capturing images of snow leopards without the aid of local spotters, and well away from other photographers who are normally based in Chicham during the midwinter season.

Below, is it time to replace some of these paperweights in 2021? No Way! The bodies still function and operate perfectly capturing images. The bodies still function and operate perfectly capturing images. Replacing good working photo gear is only necessary if something fails.